I've made an update to this video covering what should be done when you're pushing one of these engines. You can check out that video below ⤵️ 😎 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WVZdHSSCqzI.htmlsi=9nkeZyWgYnjOf-FC
After owning my 2017 eco and seeing how reliable it has been up to 101k miles (knock on wood), I can say that these engines are reliable if taken care of! I have beat the living hell out of mine and it’s had no issues. I would definitely buy a second one and have been possibly eyeing a HPP Handling pack if I don’t go for a 5.0
@@piday9633 best rims (same as on current dark horse), better shocks/struts, tuned Chassis Tuning, Magna-ride suspension (best part). Fkn thing handles like my old WRX.
@@CrackaSlapYa That sounds really nice, but have you ever thought it might’ve been a little cheaper to do the additional modding and stuff yourself? Not trying to sound condescending or anything. I’m just trying to make sure it’s worth the extra 1-2k for something that can’t be done at home or anywhere else for cheaper 😅
I have a 2020 Mustang Ecoboost which i bought brand new. I have only 33,000 miles on it (I live very close to work). It's been a very very reliable motor for me. I use only high grade full synthetic oil and have it changed religiously. I love my Stang
My 2015 ecoboost is at 120k miles and there hasn’t been any major problems with it thruoght its lifespan a more than reliable engine i would say still drive it everyday 😌
@@truewax257 I m thinking of buying a 2.3 Mustang. 2016 or 2017 model. Do you know if it s a difference with the 2.3 engines as well. They all appears to be quite good. I m not buying any modified ones. Only original for me. 300 plus HP is more than enough for me.
Ecosport a2018 titanium automatic 43500 miles fullservice history ford maintained, wanted wet belt replaced told by three dealerships can't do it until the oil light comes on when it does pullover and get AA TO tow you to a ford dealerships, got rid of it! Who wants to drive around in a ticking time bomb. Lovely car engine needed a chain drive. 1000 cc not powerful enough for ecosport to much stain on the engine. In my opinion.
Reading through these comments just made me realize that not very many people know how to actually take care of a turbo car. Everything he said applies to pretty much all performance turbo cars.
I have a 2016 tuned and modded to the moon, the engine blew up at 82K you want it to be reliable. Leave it alone. Maintain it often and it will treat you right there are cars out there with 200k but stock so take care of them. I got forged internals and ARP headstuds and a bunch of goodies plan on rebuilding it soon
He is not lying about the bad/low octane fuel. I had to learn that the hard way but was able to surmise that the issue was the low octane fuel when my van started sputtering. EcoBoosts hate low octane. Believe it! Now that I have an EcoBoost I absolutely regret that I did not get a PDFI engine instead.
I’m looking into buying one of these soon so these problem parts and maintenance advice is always what I’m looking at, that’s for the all in one video man.
I've been thinking about getting a Ecoboost mustang for a while, looked at one today. After reading these comments and seeing more videos, I'm having second thoughts. I was thinking "damn, i might buy that Ecoboost." Now I'm thinking "i swear to God, i can not afford an EcoBoom"... Maybe I'll get the V6. Edit: I bought a 2015 V6
Yeah a V 6 is reliable. It works right out the box and only needs routine maintanence . If you have the time to play then by all means get the ecoboost.
@Dropkickpunk76 i went with the v6. No turbo to worry about, no cleaning valves cause it's port injected instead of direct injection. Just as fast as the EB, gets good gas mileage, and should be reliable for a good, long time.
Anyone who owns an AWD Ford must do is change the gear oil in the differential around 10,000 - 15,000 miles and same for the Power Train Unit off of the transmission due to what is called "break in period".. Both of these are small and hold very little fluid. With the PTU generally overheating and causing the fluid to have "viscosity breakdown" from the heat. The PTU is surrounded by the exhaust and catalytic converter. And must be changed every 20,000 to 30,000 miles. A high end gear oil from Redline or Amsoil is also recommended as they perform better under higher temps. Once the differential is changed it can go 60,000 miles between fluid changes.
Even though I've owned my 2016 Ecoboost since August 2022 with it at 80,000mi (originally at 46,000mi, I got it), its always good to hear from others and see if what I'm doing is match what others say. I tend to make sure oil, coolant, and even the transmission (green at 120F) temp is all in the green, I treat the car like normal. I then tend to put it on the boost gauge to watch my boost, which I knew was going to be the bigger mystery to me. Good vid.
Modern diesel (TDCi) is pretty much the same. Some tips: - Start driving once it settles after cold start. - Don't push the engine until it properly warms up. But do start driving so it can get to temp faster. - Use quality fuel, VERY important. Cheap fuel will clog DPF, EGR, everything. - IF you live in a cold climate, you can put a heater in your car! These work off your fuel tank and can both pre-heat your car AND they run until your car gets up to temp, making it reach temps much quicker. My car gets up to temp within minutes, thanks to the Webasto heater I have installed. Amazing stuff, trust me! - This is diesel specific only, but make sure to get your car up to temp on a trip, so it can do regen if it has to. MIND YOU, modern petrol engines that use the Atkinson-cycle are the same, they hate short trips and can wear out and fail much faster if you use it for short trips. I know the video is about the EcoBoost (petrol, direct injected engine) but pretty much same stuff applies.
I have a 2016 ecoboost with 170k miles and I've replaced the turbo once just cause, and im upgrading the down pipe, spark plugs & coils this weekend. But it does run great 😁
I have never understood why people with a turbo car don't downshift before getting on it. Drop it down a couple of gears and then you're right where the turbo is happy.
@@TheMajictech And yet, they still need time to boost. Jamming the gas in a higher gear won't get the turbo spinning as quickly as a quick downshift will.
@@durwoodrobison7800 and probably 90% of those vehicles are equipped with an automatic transmission with not many having provisions for manual shifting
@@TheMajictech Then the engineers need to program the trasnsmisson properly, but they don't care about the car lasting past the factory warranty, so they won't.
this video is accurate. I own a '19 Ecoboost 6-speed with the Ecoboost Performance Package, Ford Performance intake and tune. using Shell 93 octane exclusively (or Chevron if there's no Shell station in the vicinity). Motorcraft full synthetic oil every 5k miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. "engine lugging" is driver error for sure.
i haven't done an oil change almost 8 months but i don't drive my eco everyday, should i still do its oil change? I've only put in 3,000 miles since the last oil change.
@@fartin6 Better safe than sorry. My 2019 Ecoboost Mustang is in the shop right now with a blown motor. Carbon built up so Ford denied warranty. They said that I had a antifreeze leak into "Valve #3" that caused the car to hydrolock upon starting the car. They said that the camshaft (I Believe) continued to turn and wrecked the motor. It's a $10,000 mistake that is coming all out of my pocket. The car has 51k miles on it. I am the second owner. Very nice car, but what a hunk of shit. After this car I will never buy another Ford because of Ford Motor Company fucking me when it comes to honoring warranty
It's a good idea to change the coolant every 50k miles. Currently at 114k milee, 2016 Ecoboost Performance pack, manual, bought it new with 5 miles on the odometer. Acidic coolant will attack the head gasket, and if you've ever seen how much margin there is in the 2.3 head gasket, you definitely don't want that!
I just bought a 2010 Mondeo Titanium X with a 2L Ecoboost at 203ps (well, probably less than that now) & Powershift box and it's apparently done 115k miles...with no service history, I suspect that's probably 155k miles or more as most cars tend to get "clocked" lolz. Either way, it really is quite quick...shocked me a bit. Kinda figured that if this ecoboost and powershift stuff is as bad as they say, it would have all died long before this Mondeo got to 14 years old. Doesn't appear to be any smoke or oil leaks...fingers crossed!
That is the same for you 2.3l Ranger guys pumping 87. NO, The 2.3l ecoboost is tunes done for 87 but they like 91-93. Your engine will thank you. I run E30 with a tune most of the time on my Ranger. She purrs and stays cool.
My 2.0 in my 2017 focus st has been fantastic sitting at 156k miles, had some issues but nothing to bad or costly. Had a loose injector at 1,000 miles (fixed under warranty) and had to replace my intake manifold due to blow by getting past a gasket and having some oil gather up on the manifold runner. I’m tuned and full bolt on on 93 Oct. just been doing on time oil changes (AMSoil) and plugs every 10-20k miles.
If you finance a used one get the warranty I got mine at 29,000 miles - the engine block cracked, a cylinder was misfiring and my purge valve cracked. I saved so much money by getting the warranty, not paying anything. It’s a good daily commuter and very economical with decent performance mind you I never intend on “racing” 😂
You seem very knowledgeable. I have a 2021 ecoboost. It rattles when I turn on the A/C and when it’s idle. Any ideas? I have been using the cheapest gas and it’s all stock. It has 25k miles
That's weird. That's one of those issues that's really hard to diagnose without looking at it. It could be something loose, or it could be related to the engine directly. Considering it only happens with the ac on, it could have something to do with the ac compressor. Another thing to keep in mind is that the high pressure fuel pump on these engines is loud. When you turn the ac on, the car will adjust idle a little higher by adding some timing to compensate for the ac. Since it's idling a little higher, the cam lobe that operates the high pressure fuel pump spins faster and usually becomes more audible. I doubt it has anything to do with the gas you're using.
I’d say bc manufacturing. The oem are made all over the world. I swapped a sensor made in Romania. Anyhting thats made in Mexico, its bound to fail. Also FORD is interchanging parts from other makers like Renault and other brands.
This is excellent information, thank you! I bought a 2020 Eco Mustang with 4 miles on it, has 16K now. I’m 57 and hope it will be my last car, so wish I could speak with someone like you here in Texas to learn more. I checked the sensor P/N and it seems to be the correct one, but did not know about that other part so will check it. The spark plugs tip was completely new to me, so this weekend going to pull them and inspect. Do you think the Ford synthetic blend oil is acceptable? I’ve changed the oil at about 3,000 miles (so about four times now when oil monitor shows about 50% remaining life) and haven’t yet used the 45K points the dealer awarded at purchase, so have been taking to the dealer for the oil changes. I’d like to change it myself in time so will investigate the other oils you mention. I buy only premium fuel but have been getting it at Kroger fuel station because of the fuel points, but if you recommend other name brands like Shell, Chevron, etc. would be glad to know. Don’t plan to mod but would like a catch can, but not overly mechanical and don’t know if I can install it. The only thing I’d like to do in time is upgraded intercooler. Thanks again for the great info. New subscriber here.
The Synthetic Blend your using is fine. You have the oil changed frequently, and you're not planning to drive the car too hard and modify it. So I wouldn't stress too much about it. Catch can is great idea while the car is new. I also wouldn't stress about the intercooler either unless you tune it to run higher boost pressure. The factory intercooler isn't the best, but it works better than not having one at all lol. I appreciate the support!
How do you protect against LSPI in this car? How can you clean carbon buildup without killing turbo or catalytic converter? If you already hear LSPI can you save the engine? is it reversible?
Many of the best ways to prevent LSPI are covered in the video. Use quality oil that's SP/SN Plus rated with oil changes done at no more than 5,000 miles. Use the highest octane and best quality fuel available. Install a catch can. Don't lug the engine.
@@KarzKreated dealership wont install a catch can either :(.. i always change oils sooner than 7500km and alwrays warming up and trying to avoin turbo until 2500 rpm.. usually i try to drive mine with arround 3000rpm steady. i m horrified of lspi because my last car toyota 1.2 8nr-fts was wrecked because of this.
Oil is the least of my concerns. Mine has less than 50k and the infamous misfires hinting at blown head gasket are starting. The turbo is also throwing an under boost code. Worst car I have bought
What’s with this wide open throttle stuff? I like to go fast with my Ford Flex Ecoboost, but have had no troubles in over 98,000 miles. I feel it is a great engine. Pretty hard to use wide open throttle around here without getting arrested.
Just curious, my 2021 Explorer with 2.3 ecoboost requires 5w30 and my assumption is that this is the case for most ecoboosts. I use full synthetic, and I've never had a problem with oil burn of any sort (and I tow a fishing boat regularly). My question is this, since I live in an extreme climate where it goes down to -40c in the winter, should I consider a different viscosity?
Factory oil viscosity for the 2.3 ranges from 5w30 to 5w50, depending on the application. I would definitely recommend looking into an oil that has great cold flow attributes. It could potentially be beneficial to use a 0w oil during the really cold months. Look up Project Farm on youtube if you don't already know, and watch through his oil test videos. He does a simple cold oil flow test at extreme temperatures.
Look for a block heater cord under your hood. Ford made them standard on most eco boosts for colder climate areas up until very recently. Definitely use it to preheat your engine on very cold start ups.
i go pick up my first 2016 ecoboost has 87k miles and pick it up on august 10, what should i do right after i pick it up? oil change? transmission fluid change, differential fluid change? not sure what else.
I have recently gotten a new 2021 ecoboost premium. Rest assured I am gonna well take care of it. Except the first part you mentioned (low pressure fuel sensor, Spark plugs, Evap module). Do you think there is need to replace them with newer part yet. i am not a car expert but will ford be able to do it for me and not charge me fortune? The fuel sensor I have read should be the one with notches on the front. Should I replace it yet.? Also about the carbon buildup. Can ford do something called walnut blast to cleanup the buildup or is that something I have to do on my own?. My car is still under factory warranty and also has extended that i bought with it to be on safe side. please let me know. Thanks
Your car should already have the updated fuel sensor, so I wouldn't worry about that. The evap valve is hit or miss whether it craps out or not. You'll likely deal with that as it happens since there's no way to know, and it's pointless to replace it unless it does go bad. Most dealers do offer intake cleaning services, but they generally use liquid solvents to perform the cleaning. You'll have to check around for walnut blasting, but that's something I wouldn't even consider until after 50k miles are on the car.
@@KarzKreated I am not sure if it’s the newer updated sensor. Because it doesn’t have the notches on the base that I have seen in the pictures having the newest one online. About the evap, what’s the symptoms that will show in the car? . Btw the car is like 8400 miles but I just want to be as careful as possible. I also have warranties on it. Thanks for the reply 🙏
My Silverado 2.7 turbo I4 has low rpm torque curve comes in at 1500 rpm,under very light throttle it will lug up a hill with out a down shift and no loss of speed, acts just like a Diesel.
That’s a characteristic of a direct injected turbo engine. They make so much torque and do it at relatively low speed, that main bearing wear can be an issue. Better to keep the rpm at least above 2k rpm as the engine. Less tension stress.
Any local dealership will have them, though prices will vary. You can get them online here - www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-sensor-bu5z9f972b www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-hose-fuel-vapour-fr3z9g297h
It's the EVAP Purge valve. It's not worth replacing unless it's malfunctioning. It's been recommended to replace it as a precaution. It's not nearly as important as the low pressure fuel sensor.
2020 Ford Explorer xlt 2.7 ecoboost with 57,000 miles. I got it brand new, zero issues so far. Worried about the overall longevity of the ecoboost. Should I change the spark plugs at 100k miles? Should I be ready to replace the transmission at 100k miles?….Haven’t watched the vid yet lol
I believe you are in the clear in terms of the faulty block design that plagued the pre-2020 explorers with ecoboost. Yours has a tiny hole drilled between cylinders, the earlier designs had a slit accross the top that severely minimized gasket contact surface area and notoriously leaked coolant into the engine cylinder(s). I think if you keep up with recommended maintenance you should be ok.
That's true for most vehicles. I unfortunately discovered firsthand that even though you can follow every recommendation in the book for this engine, the likelihood of something going wrong is still present. These engines can be reliable, but they are plagued by manufacturing inconsistencies. Some make it well over 100k miles with routine maintenance, and others will fail well within the warranty period. It's a crapshoot if you have a good one or a bad one.
@@Luigy2111 90 octane preferably and from gas stations with high traffic and stay away from fuel with ethanol especially if you dont fill up often. ive seen 10 percent ethanol gas have phase separation within days and that will cause engine damage quick on an engine with boost.
I also do that. If I see that the oil temp is higher than normal after a hard run, I will let the car idle until the oil temp goes down a little before I shut it off.
just bought my 2016 eco boost with 55k miles on it and runs fantastic. Just curious...to the right of the steering wheel is a black flip up lid with switch under it...any idea what that is?
2:08thanks for this video! It’s great with a Lotta great info, question for this fuel sensor do you know what the correct good part number is? You mentioned to make sure you have the updated part… just fyi, my eco-boost is also a high-performance from 2022.
The "wet belt" design is the problem, it's flawed. Renault/Citroen use wet belt engines as well and they have the same issues. The belts can start to disintegrate and clog oil pathways. The Mustang and ST (the real ST models, not ST-line which is just a trim) spec cars don't use them though afaik. The MK8 Fiesta ST uses a chain. It's mostly the smaller 1.0-1.5 engines.
Are you going over a lot of hills? I’ve never gotten 12 mpg in my eco Id probably cry thinking it’s broken or the eco part fell off and it’s just straight boost lol
Maybe carbon buildup (induction cleaning, spark plug replacement, throttle body)… bad air filter Cruise control is not always efficient, especially if driving on rolling road grades Do hypermiling… I could easily get 22-24 mpg on my parents 2014 f150 ecoboost
The short answer is that you should use the highest octane fuel available. But 91 is generally fine on a stock car. The car will adjust itself for fuel quality.
I have to manually down shift my car because it won't downshift to a high enough rpm to limit high load lugging. The factory Trans calibration is atrocious on the A10.
@KarzKreated Hello would you mind identifying the 2 structures your hands are on at minute 2:40 . My 2018 ecoboost seems to be leaving from the 2 and I have a code p0301
Those are the oil control solenoids for the camshaft phasers. There is a rubber seal in the valve cover that's prone to leaking over time. That's likely why you see oil leaking from there. That problem shouldn't cause a P0301 in itself. Pull out the ignition coil from cylinder 1 and see if there's oil in the spark plug hole.
So ive been changing my oil with motorcraft synthetic blend thats not good enough i should get pennzoil instead ? I dont like castrol and i cant get amsoil in the autoparts where i live
The Motorcraft oil is decent oil. If you drive the car hard, or if it's making a bit more power than stock, I would suggest using a premium full synthetic. If it's a mostly stock car that you don't beat on, Motorcraft oil is fine. I still recommend changing your oil no later than 5,000 miles regardless of oil brand.
You didn't mention TopTier gas. Change the oil, every year or 5,000 miles, whichever comes first, with a name brand API SN or SP rated oil. An oil catch can isn't a bad idea, but it's not really necessary on a stock, properly maintained engine. If you're pumping up the boost, you'll be increasing the blowby, so add a catch can. The 2.3 ecoboost isn't prone to carbon buildup, on the valves, if properly maintained. Do some research and try to find one, with any symptoms of carbon buildup. It's really hard to find one on the 2.3. The worst ecoboost, for carbon buildup, was the early 3.5. The biggest problem with the 2.3 is that it's an open deck block, with very narrow cylinder to head mating surfaces, for the head gasket to do it's job. It's a really terrible design, for an engine running this much boost stock. It's not a great idea to add more boost to it, without upgrading the head gasket and head bolts. Also, if you've got a 2018 or earlier, it'd be a good idea to upgrade the connecting rods, like Ford did in 2019. For a stock engine that's never been apart, I'd consider retorqueing the head bolts.
You were doing great with your gas explanation until you said topped of with E-85. Just stick to the 93, so the computers doesn’t get used to higher than 93…even if it adapts quickly, would confuse things than they already were by the previous gas station
What about the coolant intrusion problem on these engines? Ford just told me I need a new long block due to coolant leakage in to cylinder 2. $8000…..help.
Sadly, these engines will continue to be plagued by that problem. It's a design flaw that doesn't have an easy fix. The coolant should be checked for exhaust gas contamination. That's likely the best way to tell if the head gasket has failed.
@@KarzKreated apparently it’s not the head gasket. It’s an actual crack in the cylinder. It gets worse over time. I can’t really trade in the car for an appropriate value due to this problem. Ford says new long block is only fix. There is a lawsuit pending but no recall. Apparently there are tens of thousands of these engines out there….1.4 to 2.0. So bad…..look in to it….you won’t believe this crap…
Oh no! I've gotten a bunch of comments recently regarding engine failures. A few months after making this video, my Ecoboost self destructed in a way I've never seen. Even though I still stand by all of the recommendations I've made in this video, I do retract my statement regarding engine failures are more than likely caused by user error. While user error is still a possibility in certain instances, it's clear that these engines are plagued by manufacturing inconsistencies and defects.
So I have this on my eco 2020 every time I put gas (93) it kind of vibrates (and kind of like it burps) idk of this is normal 🤨 but its every time I put gas on it after that it runs normal but idk if this is good or not
Let me clarify what I said there. These cars from the factory are calibrated to achieve max power on 91 octane but will run on as low as 87 octane with reduced power. If you have 93, use it!