If you want your car to sound like a v8 than buy a v8. I have an ecoboost and I would never try to make it sound like a v8 might as well save my money and trade it in for a v8
@@hoosiernative9668 Exactly! I know my 4-banger will never sound like a GT. Don't want it to, either. There's a difference between wanting it to sound good and wanting it to sound like a GT.
I agree for the most part except for the CAI. Depending on the CAI. Going from stock to the shelby GT350 CAI intake and tune (the tune doesn't work with stock air box) made a dramatic difference. According to 224xLC dynojet made almost 90 hp at peak gains and almost 100 tq at peak gains. IMO CAI is worth it if you buy a tune and intake specific for one another together.
I had a cobb accessport v3 stage 3 no issues at all. Mods I ran on my eco was a full mbrp exhaust, jlt cai, cpe exhale kit with a cpe intercooler. Loved that car only reason I got rid of it was because I didnt want to upgrade the turbo. Great car absolutely loved it but now I have a gt, time to mod that
Most of your advice really applies to the 3.5 ecoboost taurus and lincoln as well. Intake does nothing but add a louder turbo sound. The stock ford intake is not a bottleneck. At least not yet. Aftermarket exhaust rasps like crazy, but does add HP. Definitely go with a custum tune from a reputable tuner like Unleased or Livernois.
Personally I just use my cobb access port for data logging and as a gauge cluster. I have a 2002 ford ranger that has a 2.0 ecoboost swap and it works great for viewing sensor info and all that.
Great video! The only thing that jumps at me is the intercooler comment and exhaust. For the exhaust, I think it's just personal preference so not much to comment there. I have the MBRP Race and for me it sounds awesome. Now on the intercooler; the position placement I agree to an extent. However, a stock location IC should not be discarded. I have the Mishimoto and my charge and air temps are 30 degrees lower on all conditions compared to the stock one. I think the Levels Performance may do the same or even lower. It's all about design and quality in my opinion. The performance of the Mishimoto and CPE are night and day amazing. For sure we can all agree, the stock IC MUST be replaced immediately. With that IC car runs constantly in the mid and high hundreds degrees F.
Watch My Eco different people talk a lot, but no one provides proof. We can talk about this all day, but for people to believe it, provide some datalog comparisons between any of the ones you mentioned, before you trash/discard any brand.
Frank Nunez I've seen plenty of charge air temp logs of mishimoto and it comes nowhere close to say levels or ets. I'll stand behind my statement that there's no point in buying a stock location intercooler when for similiar price you can get a bigger front mount
Watch My Eco If you haven't had both personally installed and done a comparison, it is worth nothing. You can't compare someone else's logs because the entire setup is different. You have to compare apples to apples. But anyways, great video!
The intercooler part, dude, did you black out for those two minutes? I've had both sizes from a stock location intercooler, to a big FFTEC unit with a Garrett core. Barely any difference between the units. Any stock sized replacement is a huge upgrade from stock and one of the best mods you can do to this thing. Super cheap on the used market also.
Easily one of the worst and most misleading videos I’ve seen on the eb. Providing no evidence and just ones shitty opinion. Maybe at the time of this videos the stock cai might have been better but not now. Cai, borla downpipe, mbrp cat-backs with a tune, gained 110hp and 125 tq. Exhaust sounds deep and not like a ricer. I’ve had these mods on for about 20,000 miles and haven’t had one problem.
yeah and a few other little simple things will help like performance injectors and some nice spark plugs. Then all that after a tune will help a ton. Also allowing the engine to breathe is your most important factor and then you can start raising boost pressure.
I agree with 100%. I’ve never heard such stupid shit in a 8 minute video..... literally almost every mod he said to “not do” is what I’m about to do lmfaoooo Roush cold air intake has PROVEN to add horsepower up to 35 horsepower I seen it on dyno with no other aftermarket parts or tubes. Intercoolers obviously lower your temps, how is that a bad thing ?????? I’ve literally never heard anybody say a Cobb tune doesn’t change horsepower wtf is this dude smoking ????? I’ve literally seen all these parts installed one by one and then put on dyno with gains of up to 110 whp.... most misleading information I’ve ever heard. He must be butthurt about something.
This is an older video so may have changed but I installed the Cobb stage 1 93 tune and love it. Car has a lot more power but more important drives and shifts better. Now I bought the car to drive 10 more years so not out racing it.
intake manifold spacer is used to add meth lines or extra injectors. i use it in my fiesta st for methanol injection. the other ones i do agree on. just like you said. if you are using it for meth....
I use the same. For my daily driver and a long distance trips it works great. Sometimes I wish I had more but that is what a V8 is for. It sounds good without trying to be something that it isn't.
@@skillz_311 Depends on what you are going for. If you want loud then Competition. If you just want a deep tone without being as loud then Street. That being said, I love my Street Cat-back. Seems to be loud only when it needs to be and doesn't sound like your average turbo'd 4 banger. Nice deep tone at lower RPMs and not so loud that you can't hear the turbo. You can still tell it's a 4, but it sounds good.
CV Fab units are very nice, just installed the street version on mine. Made a nice difference with minimal invasive modifications. It really depends on what you are looking for doesn't it ? I may go to my local 1/8th mile track once or twice a year to play and make a handful of passes, that's it for me. No hot lapping or constant beating on my car so the street intercooler should be fine for how I plan on using it.
I think the complaint on the CAI may be misplaced. Many people swear by the FOrd Performance kit. I do think it is important to get the calibration tune with it though. Making a significant change to the intake parameters without the proper tune almost certainly *would* loose power.
CAI is debatable. Intercooler I know nothing about. Only exhaust you should consider is the Borla stage 3 ATAK cat back system. That system sounded really good on my old Ecoboost. Instead of a tune I did the Ford Racing performance package, keeps the factory warranty too. I did a throttle body spacer and while I knew there would be no power gains, there was a noticable increase of almost 0.5 mpg.
I had a sct tuner and it completely erased my autostart -.- lol even when I reverted back to the stock tune it was still gone. Had to take it back to the stealership and get it reprogrammed.
You forgot to mention MPT as a tuner when you have an SCT X4 device they have some of the best Tunes out there when it comes to the V6 and the EcoBoost
Add the k-brace (if no PP) and strut tower brace first. Better to be able to use the stock power in the corners before you go looking to add even more.
Lol. Roush intake makes for better airflow, pulls more air is cools you down faster = more power. You will want one maybe not as a first mod. Plus yes it sounds fantastic.
There are certain caveats however to his "suggestions" which I feel should be expanded on, and I am not saying he is wrong, just adding to it. 1. Cobb AP OTSs are listed specifically for the mods you "should" have and you should not be running anything higher than a stage one without any of the supporting mods, these tunes were done by cob based on their parts, so unless you are running similar AND the correct octane. Get a custom tune, but I ran the OTS tunes on my EBM which was more than bolt on (big turbo too) and I did not have any issues, and no knocking, so I would just leave this, your octane may vary. I would not be surprised if he is getting gas that is less than rated and does not know it, its very common. You should be running a knock count PID and Octane adjustment PID of some sort on your tuner logs to confirm knock/ping values are withing normal states. 2. Throttle body spacers (not w/bung in the spacer), or larger throttle bodies are pretty much only good if your running a big turbo or methanol. (note there is also a 70mm Ford Racing TB available as well, but if you not running 29 psi+ its uselsss). The Intake spacer is only good if it has extra injector bungs for secondary port injections or methanol. Making the runner length longer will only move the torque curve lower in the range but its negligible by adding an 1" It is siimilar to what happens when you add a cobrajet intake to a coyote engine, same effect, you the runners are actually shorter and it moves the torque curve higher in the RPM so you lose torque down low but gain it higher in the rev range. The TB spacer thing is more about adding turbulence to the air flow to help with atomizing air fuel better and it is kind of useless if your not spraying a power adder like NOS or Methanol. 3. Most un-boxed and open CAIs do not improve performance unless the tube size is greater than stock but often take a air temp hit being open to engine bay heat, if not tucked into the fender. IF you get a full Airaid or similar intake you will make similar power to stock but that is is, it looks cool and nothing more. I personally like the extra noise of an open CAI but I like it tucked in the fender, or like the GT350 intake were you get the best of both you get a larger inlet, better sound and same if not better performance over the stock unit. Losses and gains are not high enough in most situations to make it noticeable as shown by one of the last engineering explained videos on this, something like + - 2-3+% 4. I totally agree on the exhaust portion, no strait pipes without a resonator and even then I am way iffy on that. It is hard to get the sound right. Borla ataks are great, loud with a good growly rasp and no drone, and I would not even run a non catted DP with those.... Everyone likes MBRP race cat backs because they provide similar gains and sound to Magnaflows comps at less than $600 for 409 stainless.... It is popular for the bang for the buck crowd and are attainable by most people, where as dropping $1500 for just a cat back is hard on the mod wallet. FYI I lost 4PSI of boost due to running the stock resonator on a larger turbo with a down pipe due to restrictions, I would remove that restriction as a first mod even on a stock EBM you would gain better performance even with just that and a decent tune. 5. I ran a mishimoto intercooler with my large turbo and had no AIT issues it maintained a healthy 10 degrees lower than stock under full load, and was good up to about 465HP without any heat soak issues, however everyone should know that heat soak is an issue with all ICs if you are not moving, its how efficient they are with air flow that counts. Large front mounts are always better but you may have a cost of the Active grill setup to do it, so that should be kept in mind, and also remember that the larger volume of the intercooler is often followed by a small loss of pressure too. You will gain better temps at a slight loss of boost pressure. So make sure your tuner is good. I would add a 6th mod to the list and that is billet water pump pulley. you will find its very hard to find a full set of lightweight pulleys for the EBM and doing just one such as the water pump pulley from MMR or whomever will net zero real world gains from dropping a tiny bit of rotation weight from the drive system. I would also add to that the process to do pulleys can be incredibly complex as well as you have to lock the crank in position etc. which required work front and rear of the motor to do full pulleys anyway and the price and time/labor to performance gains (Unless you pulled your motor and are full bore forging your block) is just not worth it, you are better off pulling the balance shaft instead for a real world 20lb drop in rotational mass weight. =)
The Cobb stage 2 and 3 off-the-shelf tunes are only to be used if you have installed the bolt-on upgrades that Cobb indicates are needed for those tunes to be effective. For example, you should only install a stage 3 91 octane tune if you have bolted on a CAI, a turbo-back exhaust, a larger innercooler, and are very running 91 octane fuel. Otherwise, you don't have the hardware to support the upgraded tune and be you're asking for trouble. People who expect a tunner to make big hp and torque gains without the proper bolt-on mods are ignoring the most important part of the equation.
I really don’t know what to do for my 2020 Eco Mustang. It has the active exhaust and I think it sounds all right, so maybe just the intercooler upgrade and let the rest alone? This is all new to me, wish I could find a local shop that could be one stop for any mods.
Not all CAI are identical so the sealed units perform like the OEM unit but with more surface area, I use the OEM air box with K&N and Airiaid intake. I would recommend using a direct replacement/street intercooler for anyone who wants to preserve the warranty. Using a Race intercooler will likely void the warranty. I use the street series IC. To kill the exhaust drone on a full Turbo back exahust I had a 12 inch, 2.25 diameter glasspack installed after the catted downpipe connected to the MBRP. Without the glasspack the drone was horrible. The reason I used the 2.25 diameter glasspack was to allow running the engine safely both tuned and untuned. I use the SCT tuner with the Bama custom tunes but I only run the 91 tune on 93 Octane. Going Pro tune is fine but realize the more aggressive tunes comes with higher risk of failure. Running a mild 91 tune on 93 Octane is best for street use IMO.
I would also say the adapter to make your stock bov blow out into atmosphere. Apparently they make your car run super rich. Stay stock or go with a full bov.
Plus Ford Mustang Ecoboost use MAP tuning not MAF, meaning the air that is being vented by the blow off valve adapter is not affecting the way the ECU is metering air and fuel
I agree, I always hear people say the MBRP exhausts are the best because their cheap and have a decent tone, and most cat-backs or straight pipes ecoboosts sound terrible. I put the corsa turbo-back on my car and it is the best sounding in my opinion, it's 3 in diameter and made of stainless steel that won't rust, the only downside is the cost of it.
I don't own a Stang but I do own a 4 cyl chevy baged turbo car with some mods stage 1 class always wanted a mustang 🐎 tho ...I see lots of rivalry here for the 4 banger vs the 5.0 pretty crazy !!!!!
I have a front mount mishimoto Inter cooler, ford performance cold air intake(with calibration), and a mbrp race catback and the difference in power is nuts. Do what you want to your car lol
I was actually thinking about doing a temporary straight pipe by just doing a muffler and resonator delete.. but mine doesn’t sound anything like yours
Had a throttle bodied put on my 16 eco boost without the tune 3 hp gain with tune accommodated for the new throttle bodied gained 11 hp. That's a huge gain for a simple bolt on. Throttle bodies aren't a horsepower myth they do work.
Agree with you on the intake part, but also look into Tune+ intake housing thing (don't know the technical name) - only got my Roush cause it ended up being free lol A good IC in my opinion is Treadstone price and performance wise. MBRP is pretty decent for the price, and damn your exhaust is maaaad loud lol Got my TB spacer for the free lmfaoo
These are fair suggestions if your ecoboost is basically stock. I put together a built 2.0 esslinger longbock, stock head/cam, precision turbo, CVF downpipe, CVF Race Intercooler, and fabricated air intake pipe (CPE), MBRP Race exhaust. Car is a little beast now. The combination of these mods and strength of the 2.0 block with forged internals is expensive way to go, but the stock setup went ecoboom. Car was dynoed and only restriction now is fuel pressure dropping out above 6200 rpm. High pressure Pump upgrade is next. One cool thing is I can average 32 MPG on the highway if I keep my foot out of it. Fun cars but build with an upfront plan so your parts all meet the desired goal. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dsm-Ox4kjXQ.html
I would like to say I enjoy your videos very much you and Alexander Goodrun got some of the best content on the S550 Mustang on RU-vid.. Real world scenarios with real world drivers.. I agree somewhat with you on the cold air intakes but if you are tuning they do have the potential to be beneficial . but for the most part they do sound really good when they're installed I don't think the upgrade is necessarily worth it (performance wise).. but in sound-wise definitely worth the investment.. I also watch the video why you got rid of the Cyclone for the EcoBoost. for me it was opposite I had the EcoBoost and got the V6 for the reason the more I upgraded the EcoBoost the more issues I was having but that could have been the due to the heat that we have in the desert climates.. keep up the great videos I enjoy watching them..😃
I got the 18 ecoboost with the access port and an intake. I got the 93 stage 1 on the car and it runs great. The car stock comes with s limiter of 120mph. Cobb accessport took it off now the car gets me to 148-150
We put an MBRP race cat back on a 16 Ecoboost. Less weight than the factory system which is good, but too much drone for me. I would consider the MBRP sport instead.
It's a hot air intake on any car unless it's completely closed in with that box ,. you get the swoosh sound from the recirculating valve but all the hot air from the engine as well . That's why they made a box with air that comes in from outside the car you would get more air flow with a drop in filter ...... You can lose tourge as well with these cat back systems if you don't have a tune a car back with out a tune r catless pipes etc is just noise not HP I tried these at the track I lost HP without a tune nd the above listed mods .
2015 EcoBoost Mustang. My mods, ROUSH CAI, spacer, Flowmaster Outlaw, suspension has all been upgraded, lowered, handles amazing. A friend owns a Ferrari and drove my car, said amazing handling. Always had GTs, can't beat the sound of a V8, however the handling on my Mustang is undoubtably superior to the V8
Elliott Haley roush are really nice I have them on mine if you want to spend more than that maybe MBRP but I prefer the sound of Roush and it’s a bit less on your wallet
@@Pepper-Jack I sold the Roush off of mine for the MBRP race. I wanted 3in piping. I hated the tone of my Roush. Way too raspy for my taste. The MBRP offered a better sound and larger diameter pipe for half the price.
So a roush cold air intake won't do anything for my 2021 ecoboost?? I've seen American muscle put them in the cars. Just would like to know if it helps
I have the Roush Cold Air Intake on. my 2021 Ecoboost High Performance Package along with the MAP Street Intercooler and they work very will together, I have seen as low as 2 degree ambient/intake air temperature difference and routinely have a 4 to 6 degree ambient/intake air temperature difference. In stop and go traffic I see a 9 to 11 degree ambient/intake air temperature difference. So yes the Roush cold air intake does work and it works very well.
You can run your cobb ots tunes just fine trust me. I've been running stage 2 91octane for about a year now and nothing has gone wrong and I definitely push this car. Just use the right stage your car needs. Each stage you are required more and more mods. Rn I am fbo. Trust me cobb has been in business a while and are professionals, your car will be fine as long as you have your mods associated with the stage you run.
Yo dude if you put snow performance methanol injection it won't matter because your air temps will be cold after the throttle body that is if you use throttle body spacer. The intake manifold spacer is good for direct nitrous injection after you try snow performance injection kit. I am going to Auto Mafia to Dyno my 2.0 L snail turbo with meth injection to see what numbers my car will make. It is fwd. I am using SCT flasher with unleashed tuning 93 Octane tune plus final meth injection that works off my boost. Let's see what happens but I bet my Fusion 2.0L will have as much or more as your Mustang. Peace dude. Good luck with your numbers.
Your analysis of 100% correct you should not do any of the five things you talked about well for delete and drop in air filter and a Dyno tune or the best way to go
I put a k&n drop in filter with the stock box and it seemed a lot better over the stock paper filter. I was thinking on a vortex intercooler as I want a larger turbocharger and a mbrp 3 inch exhaust system what are your thoughts I want the ford motorsport twin cams but I need advice on a tuner like bama or if I get a custom tune there is a shop near me that works on Subaru racing that said they could help me. Your thoughts would be helpful.
Quick question man. I notice your eco boost doesn’t have a motor cover. Did you take it off or did it not come with one. I just got a 2021 with 101a package and it didn’t have one. But I wanted one.
@@madtaste9270no one wanted them. They also allow the heat to soak in the engine and on the upper engine electronics. I took it off as soon as I bought mine. Best decision as cylinder head temps went down about 10f on average. (This was the spring)
I don’t understand why not to install a cold air intake¿¿?? Wouldn’t it make it perform better?? How would it lose hp?¿ I’m confused. I really want a cold air intake but I don’t understand why not to get one??
But isn’t it better to have an upgraded inter cooler so you don’t overheat what about an oil cooler or transmission cooler ? After a while it gets hot and sluggish so I feel like it would help out alot
First of all the cold air intake he said the stock box it the best option, I found that my Cold air intake that I purchased through american muscle made a decent horsepower increase a noticeable difference quarter mile times. I bought an Airaid synthaflow CAI with the oiled filter. when combined with a SCT tuner it gained 38 hp at the wheels, and get this, 119 ft lbs torque. Not bad for totally stock ecoboost. I could really feel the torque increase, and from mid to high rpm, the horsepower came in. off the line it will smoke the tires if you do not use a bit of finesse. It has 3:55 gears and a six speed automatic slushbox. I might mod a few more things to get it into the 11 second time zone, and hopefully 119 mph or better top speed. Down pipe and smaller turbo pulley. Increase the pop off valve pressure. Eliminate the catalytic converter, and small mods and etc. Really please with it so far, raced a 2016 SS camaro and it really was no race at all. after the race he rolled his window down and ask me what I was running I said a 2.3 litre ecoboost he went red in the face and drove off.
Wayne Rhodes you want to be taken serious and you say you are gonna get a smaller turbo pulley? Come on man, at least do a little research before you try to sound like you even know what your talking about.
Wayne Rhodes why would you drive with your hood open? That’s really the only way to get gains form cold air intakes when the hood is closed they get heat soaked and you loose power
You don't upgrade your turbo pulleys? It gives you maximum power, like atleast 5 more psis, possibly a bar if you wanna get a really kickass turbo pulley.
Adrian Cortez you’re not completely wrong but I’ve been tuning cars for a long time and you’re stock ecu has enough timing and play in the system to change performance without a tune the biggest lie is when people buy cheap cold air intakes expecting power gains! The only ones that hold true are ones that are enclosed and unfortunately really expensive...
2015-2017 you’ll have minor issues with the vehicle before 120,000 miles. 2018- is the way to go in my opinion. Spend the extra couple hundred bucks to get a better built vehicle. If you don’t rag on it every time you drive it and do all proper maintenance on it, it could go 200,000+ miles trouble free.
I always giggle inside when NA vehicles run around straight piped. lol I do know the ecoboost is not NA but it just brought to mind the silliness that is straight pipes on naturally aspirated vehicles.
Hayden Nichols there are some cars where it's acceptable but when I had my v6 mustang I tried it. Muffler delete sounded great on that car but I swear once I went full straight pipe it was the most god awful sound I ever heard
it isn't really about sound. Naturally aspirated vehicles need the back pressure from a muffler to run their best. At least that is what I have always been told.
From what my mind says i can venture a hypothesis that high end rpm would increase in power low end would decrease. Because when exhaust starts to flow the back pressure pulls exhaust with it. at high RPM the flow rate of exhaust is so high that there probably is no difference. Also with more air from boosting the problem is probably so miniscule that it no longer matters and more free flowing exhaust would make the difference. /shrug i'm not sure but it's also ridiculously loud along with a possible loss of low end power is enough to keep me away from it
Unrestricted exhaust only enhances performance at high/very high RPM. Daily driving/low-RPM driving with unrestricted exhaust results in lower torque. And yes, you can feel it.
35 years after the introduction of the SVO and Americans still have no clue about 4 banger turbos. EcoBoost has the same displacement as the 2.3l Lima. Meanwhile us Svo owners get 300-400 hp with our Lima. Ford screwed the american economy for 3 decades by discounting the SVO for embarrassing the 5.O with its hp gains and better emissions. 84 175hp 85 205hp...30 hp gain in 1 production year then detuned in 86 to 200 so it would have the same rating as the 5.0. The 87 SVO would have had a DOHC designed by Jack Roush. When we put the volvo DOHC on our LIMA we're getting 350-410 hp without touching the block because that's what the Lima engine is rated maximum. Ford said back in the 80's American's aren't ready for technology kinda seems they still aren't.
Bear on A unicycle i do not believe so. I have an automatic so it doesn't allow me to change launch control or anything like that. Don't believe rev limiter can be adjusted though
