How to grease the SPD pedals: 0:54 disassembly 7:12 cleaning / greasing 10:00 assembly Bikes and components on SALE: tidd.ly/7f5a2dc1 I test - you buy on Amazon: amzn.to/2fBut9s
After watching several tear down/ rebuild videos I must compliment you on yours. The few seconds it takes to clarify directional parts is essential and your video does this to perfection. You have mastered the art of educational videos and I thank you immensely.
As a mechanical engineer I have learned that you must not mix up the balls from different bearings. Even if they were exactly the same when new they will wear differently in different bearings. This might not be a big deal in a slow moving bearing such as in a pedal but it is better not getting bad habits. Next time you might be working with a bearing with higher loads on it and if you put in one ball that is slightly bigger than the others the bearing will probably break down prematurely.
Loose ball bearings should not be reused - if they are taken out of the race, they can't reoriented to their worn configuration, and you'll never be able to properly tighten the cone against them. Always use new balls.
Nice tutorial. If I may just add, I believe on these type of Shimano pedals, you can actually put some grease on the pedal body, about a quarter of the body. Then as you tighten the sleeve, grease will be forced on to the bearings, excess grease will come out as you tighten the sleeve. This way, will make the insides encased in grease, making them more protected.
Thanks for the video! Just overhauled my pedals with the help of your tutorial. One thing that i noticed is that maybe the main axle seal is meant to be seated straight to the groove in the plastic sleeve instead of what you did. Did the other pedal like that and seemed that it came together better than the other where i had to fiddle the seal to it's place with a small screwdriver after assembling the pedal.
Thanks! very instructive video, I serviced my pedals, got rid of play that appeared over the years and cleaned them pretty well. There was lot's of sand-like dirt and even metal shavings, I think I gave the pedals another few thousands kilometers to go ;)
For those like me who are pulling their hair out after dropping individual balls from the bearing, there are 24 in total. For idiots like me who have lost individual balls or wanting to replace them, 609 bearings (and probably others) have the exact same sized balls.
In some other tutorials the body of the pedal was packed 1/4 of its volume with grease, which is pushed through the spindle assembly when spindle is pushed inside and subsequently tightened. Spindle assembly is just wiped clean without overhaul. Excess and/or old grease comes out the top. While you did clean everything beforehand, do you think you might missed putting some more grease into the body of the pedal?
I did overhauled my old M530 pedals last year because of that play, but had problem afterward because the lock nut wasn't holding it put.. I don't know, maybe I used too strong decrease that got rid of some of thread lock on that nut, or I used too much, or too good crease that lubricated the thread also too well.. Even though I had tightened it quite well in my opinion.. Also I think somewhere I saw a chart of torques online, where it was listed how strongly tightened also that locknut should be . And also I saw some tutorial about how re grease these pedals, where they did not take the bearing a part at all. They just wiped old grease off from body and outside of axle assembly, then filled the pedal body half way with grease and put it all together. When they screwed the axle inside pedal body, the pressure forced the new grease inside of bearing from bottom, through the sleeve and the old stuff was coming out between the seal and they said that, this way it will last longer, you won't need to overhaul so soon.
I love your videos. Could you show us how to do Wellgo pedals like their SPD clones and or the Look clones W40 pedals? These do not have splines like the Shimano.
No need to remove the bearings. Simply wipe the axle down with a cloth. Put some fresh grease back into the pedal and reinstall the axle. The grease gets pushed into the axle as you reinstall it into the pedal.
Please help: The rubber seals of my pedals have totally disintegrated. Does anybody has the dimensions by any chance? I can then possibly draw it and 3D print it from flexible material. Thanks for any help.
Christopher Bøgh Andersen My buddy who is a weightweenie, used that tutorial for his xt clipless pedals. He said that it worked just fine, since the whole mechanism is the same but with better/lighter material
Danny, I watched your video several times and disassembled and reassambled my Shimano pedal several times, but I am stuck with a huge problem. The right pedal (which has counterclockwise threading) is greased and smoothly rotating, but after just 50m of pedaling the pedal is getting tighter and then almost stuck. After reopening I see the bearing hardly moving. I've tried everything with the nut and fixing nut, but they seem to tighten themselves until the bearing are stuck when the pedal is in use. I am close to throwing the almost new pedals in the trash bin. Can you help?
Even if it's a super tiny little play, it shouldn't be acceptable, it would wear the pedal faster. It would be better trying to replace the inner components.
How do you identify if the locknut is directional or not? I made the mistake of not realising the locknut on the PD-M780 right pedal is reversed thread and stripped the alloy nut. I can't find anyone who sells this nut so looks like I'll need a full axle assembly; quite expensive for what is it :-(
I just did the same on a right A520 pedal. Hadn't ever heard of left hand threads for a bearing cone before. The Shimano website... si.shimano.com ... has technical documents and some pedals are described as using these left hand threads on the right pedal. There are pedal assemblies for sale on ebay, and I'm hoping to find one for the A520. The nut itself is a fine pitch M5. I haven't found a source for a fine pitch M5 with left hand threads, though.
@@SkyhawkSteve My friend gave me his old worn out M520 pedals and I took the right axle and nut off of that. What was shocking is that the right axle on his is NOT reverse threaded, so I almost stripped it again thinking that it was. Here's a photo which compares my right axle (left side in the photo) to his (right side in the photo): www.dropbox.com/s/cvk1v2tnmelyx1q/shimano%20m520%20right%20axles.png?dl=0
@@JohnnyOshika small world! I checked one of my M520's too... and was also surprised. Shimano's website has lots of manuals and exploded view drawings with part numbers. The manuals tell you if the pedal has left hand threads on the locknut and the exploded view has part numbers for all of the bits. Some of the axle assemblies are available.. either on ebay or from shops. Very frustrating, though. I'd love to find out why Shimano wasn't consistent in either using left or right hand threads.
@@SkyhawkSteve Same with me. I made a mistake that the right hand pedal has a lock nut inside that is left. As a result, the threads were damaged. On the other hand, the left hand pedal has a locknut of right hand. Charged from experience
It went together easily in less than an hour. ru-vid.comUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
My outer plastic (Lock Bush) and seal are shot. My bearings are good. i can't find this "Lock Bush" anywhere. When I google "lock Bush", the lock bush tool comes up, but no lock bush. Are the pedals considered throw away at this point, or does someone know where to get this new lock bush and seal? Thanks
For some it can be a significant amount of money. And besides that it just feels good to keep things running and to just generally tinker with the bike.
I just overhauled mine at 65 , 029 km ( 40, 407 mi ). They are clean on the inside with almost no play. This is my 12 th year on the pedals and bike ---many years and miles ( km ) of joy .
