Each brand has its own wait times per brand, read instructions. For valve covers, the more durable for a good price is rustoleum. Check reviews on each can. Also check reviews on the primer of your choice, etc. Suerte
Rustoleum for a valve cover? Mmm I don't think that's correct. I think you would need a high temp paint at least? Ceramic high temp dries fairly quickly and its formulated for that very application.
@@ruledbysaturn They have Rustoleum for high temps, generally advertised for grills and radiators, not sure if I would use it on parts for the car though….. 🤔
@@ruledbysaturn i used rustoleum high temp black on my c10s edelbrock intake manifold. That was 2 years ago and still looks good. I didnt use their primer though because i had seen some reviews of how it peeled with primer only.
Bruh...if q dude has a car that clean at 500k, im gonna assume he took good care of it. Of course im still gonna test drive it and look it over and under lol
I just want to say I appreciate you painting that a neutral color instead of something wild. RU-vid is flooded with color matched engine bays, it's nice to see something that just looks... nice.
@@sindicta5757 I mean I can get behind a nice cherry red cover to match the car. But as a Subaru owner as long as it looks nice and the owner likes it it can be any color they want lol. The grey is a nice choice for this car
@@Tyler_Adhikari very real. over tightening runs the risk of cracking/warping the valve cover, as well as crushing the gasket and making an imperfect seal. Lots of mechanics generally tighten by feel from their experience (which is usually fine) but really just play it safe and always look up torque specs when dealing with critical parts.
With the valve cover I do not think it is such a big deal since the bolts themselves have gasket seals on them. Just hand tighten, then snug down and it should be good.
Addendum: wear PPE, gloves, eye lung protection are most important. You only have two of hands, eyes and lungs, can't afford to lose one. Also, if you specifically mention "put old gasket aside" you HAVE to mention to REPLACE the gasket with a new one.
Don't forget to paint the bottom part too it'll help the valve perform smoothly because of the new smooth surface of paint, also make sure to paint the gasket as well since an extra layer of paint could help tighten it connections and improve its sealing effects
Yeah… I saw that and the first thing that went through my head was “I’m not even anywhere close to an expert but… shouldn’t you wear gloves when going near degreaser?”
Come on man if you’re gonna do all that work, at least give yourself cool letters and numbers. My buddy let his daughter paint the letters and numbers on his valve cover. Then we did another work over on his play car and we found high temp pants for her to draw a little scene on his valve cover. It’s really cool and we ended up making a clear valve cover so people can see her a little interpretation of what the car means to her. It was really cool.
If your valve cover has an oil baffle be careful that no dirt gets underneath there when cleaning and scrubbing the cover, you need to drill out the baffle to clean it or all that dirt will destroy your engine
If u own a Miata long enough u gotta do the valve cover gasket anyway, it's a major reason some cars leak oil and it's super easy to do, just make sure you're torquing the bolts right and there's really nothing to it. Id say replacing the valve cover gasket is about as easy as an oil change on the Miata.
@@johncuervo3019 even if they never put the gasket back on it'll burn oil and smoke in the engine bay so they'll freak out pop the hood and see it's the valve cover. Happened to me once it's easy to spot.
Left off the last 2 steps.... 600 grit or higher on a block and sand yhe raised letter to a nice shine. Then hit the entire cover with gloss (or your pref of sheen) clear coat. And viola, you added more protection with the clear and tricked it out with the shiny raised letters that won't dull Over time . Cheers
Use etching primer on aluminum and preheat the surface for aluminum is very porous and traps moisture, oven cleaner works great for stripping anything off aluminum including anodized finishes.
If your valve cover is aluminum make sure you use the correct primer for aluminum. Also high heat primer and paint probably isn't needed for that valve cover and if you don't heat up high temp paint hot enough to cure the paint will fail in short order.
You should put a watermark on your vids, especially on your yt shorts. I've seen your videos on other channels which don't look like they've asked for your permission.
"Spray one coat / wait 10 min / spray one coat... etc" NOOOOH! YOU GRIND! AND THEN YOU SAND! UNTIL YOU SEE YOUR OWN REFLECTION!!! THERE IS IMPURITY UNDERNEATH YOUR COATS!!! 🔥🔥🔥
That's cleeeeeeeeeeeeeean boy! Love it. I'm glad you didnt paint it red like the other guy said. I like a bay that looks fresh and factory rather than all kinds of messed with.
@@jamesolelo4406 nah, just degrease it and spray it with acid. Let it sit for a minute and pressure wash it, they come our looking great. No ice drying involved 👍
Pull off the masking while the paint is still drying, the paint still has some stretch while it is wet/tacky and is less likely to crack/tear etc when you pull the masking off
2 things. this guy didnt put on a clear coat. that may have been because the type of paint he used didnt need one but most paints will need you to put a clear coat after the colour coat. also when the paint is drying, you may want to put a cover over it like a plastic tub to stop any dust or debris from falling onto the paint
Use self etching primer otherwise it will have no longevity, the best stuff is alloy wheel paint as it’s high temp rated and self etching for painting alloy metals
Looks great. But there is no need to wait ten minutes in between coats. First light coat. Wait about 2-3 minutes. Then lay on a full even cover coat and wait at least 20 mins. Check it out. If you have uneven results you can put another coat. But it doesn’t have to be that time consuming. Good job thou. Looks professional.
I really appreciate the light coats of pain/primer. I frown a little when I see people just go ham with the paint can and try to do it all in one sitting. Multiple light coats and better than one heavy coat.
Always replace old gaskets. If you are doing this, you are running an older unit. These gaskets require replacement due to age/wear. $12~$30. Less chance for oil leak.
Remove valve cover. Clean up all the corrosion with a brass wire wheel. Don't worry about taping all the little holes. Just shove something in the hole for the oil fill put two or three coats of wrinkle black on it. Let it dry and then carefully sand off where it says Mazda and such. Stick it back on there and it looks better
Just to go the extra mile paint just the letters white let dry then mask them off with tape then put your desired coat of paint. Then remove tape and it looks just that much better
No rubbing alcohol! It just spreads waxy and greasy substances it can cause lifting! Use a proper degreaser like purple power or automotive wax and grease remover!
Use a heat gun on the can to increase the pressure and gain a superior coverage. Obviously don’t keep it too like because it will explode and don’t heat the plastic nozzle as it will stop the flow
another cool thing you can do is sand the paint back off the top of the casting letters, and let the bare aluminum show through. the more time you want to put into this process, the shinier you can get them.
1. Why paint silver when you can polish? 2. Remove your masking immediately after spraying your last coat. You can peel paint accidentally if you wait for it to dry
meanwhile i use sanding sponges to prep for a fine polishing, end result is the aluminum looks like chrome and i add a wax or clear coat to keep it that way
I would definitely give the both the primers and the colors more time to fully dry if you don't wait enough in between coats and you do too many coats you'll get bubbling/orange peeling/flaking or of course running. My advice would be late at least 1 hour between primer coats and 2 to 3 hours between color coats. And I'm not saying he did it wrong or bad or anything it did turn out nice for him, but factors like humidity and temperature and if you're doing it inside or outside matter. So I'm just giving a basic guideline. And just giving my two cents not meaning any harm 🙂👍
For what it's worth you can save loads buy buying a variety sand paper pack, sanding to a nice aluminum finish and clear coating it. In my experience all those paint steps will cost a bit more and are easier to screw up. Nice video tho!
Well, i've been driven my cars always with closed hoods. And i never had problems with "bad" looking motor parts during that. The time i saved by leaving it as it is and keep the hood closed while driving, at home or at the supermarked i used to go for a walk into the forest to see something really nice.
You eliminate half the time if after you scrub it with the scourer you just spray it with engine enamel. Will bind to the cover fine and saves you 1000 other paint layers
