I've really got to thank you for making this video. I have to make some stop sign shaped signs for someone. 18 of them in fact. I have a CNC router that I make signs with and I have never ever had any luck at all with any type of painting on MDF. I was happy to see the results of your remake on the Killz primer being rolled on. That really looks nice. So now I know what to use on my project, and believe me I wan't looking forward to the painting part as I have, like I said, never had any luck at all paining MDF. Thanks again buddy, I really appreciate this video. Jim
Thanks for the video. I will definitely try the Kilz 3 method. I've learned that with Rust-o-leum is that they mean when they say to apply additional coats within the first hour or else wait for 48. Otherwise, it causes a wrinkling in the paint and the only cure is to sand back to the wood and do it all over again. I've also used the R-O-L primer on wood and that works well, too, so long as you don't wait more than 1 hour to apply the color after. What an R-O-L operator told me was that I should also apply their clear coat within that first hour, too, after painting. But as you noted about how the paint doesn't quite layer right, who would want to finish that?! So, I strongly encourage anyone else watching this still, to wait the 48 hours dry time for the R-O-L paint before doing the final clear coat. You're the first one I've seen suggest using the Kilz, but I do like, from your video, the way it seemed much more "finished" compared to the other two methods. Thanks for doing this video.
I wouldn't think spackle would bond well enough to the mdf...like it would just kinda crumble and fall apart...maybe something like a sandable wood filler would be better. I used sandable wood filler to fix trim molding that my dog chewed (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0q9FPRWp-TM.html),and that worked really well
@MoonBuiltGarage no that makes sense. Do you still prefer the kilz over the sanding sealer? I'm going to be doing a project soon and trying to decide weather to use a nice plywood or mdf. I'm going to be building a Nintendo switch cover for a TV
I do. I built a bathtub cover with shelves out of MDF, and used the Kilz to seal everything before painting, and everything turned out perfectly smooth
Best way I've found is to apply two coats of paint, between coat sand with 220 or 340 and recoat. Did some testing with a PVA wash at 75% glue to 25% water and got essentially the same results. I am in more of a production based application so minor imperfections are often overlooked. Would be filled with exuberant joy if time allowed me to BIN prime everything.
