I'm watching this to learn how to do Patina jobs on cars. I've been painting cars for many years, and always made them look as good as possible. Now I have a customer who wants a patina job. This is definitely a first for me! thanks for the "How to"!
That was an awesome instructional video I look forward to doing my 71 Beetle now... I've been wondering for some time how I'm going to do it.. you made it look easy.. thanks again man...
Thank you for pointing out the plastic parts bit. Really wanna petina my dodge Magnum and I can see myself halfway through grinding on the thing before realizing that. Great channel Holmes.
Thanks for showing how it's done, I have a 47 ford truck cab & doors with some patina on it all ready but making my own 18 ga bed. I am trying to figure out how to make look like the cab . Thanks again, nice work on the 37 rat.
Thanks for the tip! I was a bit sceptic after watching this video because it seem like this whole process presented by you won't be that easy, quick and effective in real life conditions but it's working 100%! Now my rat bike is starting to take shape :D
Love the videos. Gonna do the patina on my 71 F100. My neighbors think I'm nuts but then they drive a Prius, a Range Rover, a Dodge Mini Van and a Taurus. They ( in my mind anyway ) have a cool factor of ZIP. You need your own TV show. Keep making and I'll keep watching.
My neighbor patina’d out a florida f100 , thing was rust free before , idk how i feel about forcing the rust on something so clean. Looks cool though , just feels wrong lol
Thank you for this video. I have my dad's old lifted 1989 chevy cheyenne 2500. Its already patina but not a lot of rust so this will bring out the look for sure. Really appreciate it.
planning on doing this to the tank and fenders on my bike. gonna do a few layers of primer and then black on top. im thinking grey -> pale blue -> a rusted or "barn" red -> black paint. then have patches of the patina scratched throughout revealing the layers in the edges.
I'm pretty sure the whole patina thing is what brought me to your channel in the first place, and I've been hooked ever since. You make really good videos, bro. I wish I could attempt half of what you do with your rides, but this is definitely something I will try one of these days. I have a 65 F-100 that I bought with a really crappy repaint that has lots of spots where it has peeled off and is showing the primer, so I really can't make it look any worse than it already does. LOL Thanks for sharing your technique and when I ever come up with a layout of the patina, I'd like to send you some pics of how it turns out.
Dude, im very grateful for this! My end result really speaks volumes. If I may add something; use a heat gun after the second or third spray, if you want that really dry, sitting for decades, looking patina. But to preserve that look, you need to clear coat it though.
Nice job, You can also put a fridge magnetic to it if your not sure or if you think there is thick pondo. We all know they stick to metal, well most of us still do these days
Great vid- thanks for the instruction and insight. One question I have is.... when spraying on the rust activator solution, will the overspray damage any surrounding clear coat?
Great video, thank you very much for sharing the knowledge. Recently bought an 87 Honda Rebel that’s bobbed out, now I’m planning on doing a nice patina job to the gas tank and rear fender
Great video, thank you so much for making it! If I wanted to apply clear coat, I assume this would be done before and instead of applying the linseed and mineral spirits mixture?
Dude this is awesome. I’ve used muriactic acid and hydrogen peroxide but the acid obviously sucks to work with and is super toxic. Thanks for sharing this
I used this method after watching this video. It turned out amazing! Only problem is I hit a water puddle and it dry stained the water running on the truck and I can't get it to go away. Could a guy clear coat it after the boiled linseed oil dried to prevent the water from doing this. Thanks man! Appreciate your videos!
love your work mate! Would thoroughly washing off the salt before the boiled LO be of benefit? I would have guessed the trapped salt under the coating would have continued to react with the metal. Reading through the comments, it appears to be a no issue.
Great video -- thank you! Does that patina dry to a hard finish that's clean to the touch? I've got a rusted steel front door that' I want to clear coat in some way so the rust won't come off on folks coming through the door. Is the boiled linseed oil a good solution for this situation? And does it last or does it have to be renewed regularly?
Hi how are you? very good video, I want to do it to my dodge d100 could you tell me what products you use and in what order? Can the finish be done with clear? or is it made with boil linseed oil?
thanks for the great video , Im working on a 56 ford pickup and did exactly as you described for the rusting process , after 24hrs mine looks very orange IMO …. is it possible if I cut back on the peroxide (maybe 8oz instead) that maybe it wouldn't be so orange ?
Kind of you to make a guide on this. Most techniques are kept a secret nowadays + the old , very durable ones often contain mercury so that’s off the table anyways. Never used linseed oil myself to be honest. Heard it’s good to treat wood , but I might be wrong.
Just saw this. Wanting to do something like this to my 81 c10. Couldn't you just brush on a clear coat? As to not have to reoil the whole ride? Love the vids.
Tried this on a 63 chevyII, using clear instead of the linen seed oil. Was hard to keep the rust on the metal without rubbing it all off. Left it the way it dryed and cleared the hood only Left it on for about 3 months. I dident like how it was grainey in the rust areas (from the salt I guess) sanded it back down to redo it and found the areas wer badly pitted. The hood was a brand new hood. Now im skeptical on going this route using a.clear coat. Guess the linin seed oil penetrates the metal and prevents further rust process. Any thoughts on how to wipe the granuals etc off without removing the rust back to bare metal for adding clear? Thanks and great info...
loved your video. My question is If I spray the rust solution on my truck after striping paint off and then clear coat will metal continue to rust under clear coat?
Yes it will continue to rust. Clear coat may peel as well as it will not adhere well to rust. This is why he uses linseed oil to treat it and not a clear coat paint.
If you want it clear coated. Paint the entire vehicle a rust color. Then paint a topcoat color of choice. Then sand lightly in areas to remove top coat so you see rust color base coat come thru. Once desired patina is a achieved, clear coat the whole thing.
If I repaint a car a different color and not clear coat it, will it eventually get a patina look or will that just take too long a process? Great tutorial btw!
I'm wondering what's the best way to seal it up if you plan on using the vehicle through the elements? I don't have a garage yet but I'm in the process of doing this exact thing.
Will the bare metal stay preserved atall? Thinking about doing this to my 56 oval big but i dont want the rust to damage, just cosmetic would be nice. Or i was think just shoot red/ brown primer first then paint. and sand to the primer only not bare. Any thoughts !? Thanks
I have been thinking of doing this to the cast iron top of my table saw. I figure I need to polish the top to bright metal, then put the rust solution on there and boiled linseed mixture. Will I be able to stop there or will I need to wax it to make it slick?
Hi, I’m writing from Uruguay. I like a lot your video. I started a new proyect it is a ‘78 Kawasaki KZ200 and I would like to make this patina to the gas tank. Can you leave the materials list? Thanks.
I plan to do this to an old truck and I very much appreciate this video. The only question I have is, how will washing the vehicle affect this finish- will it wash off the linseed oil? Thanks.
