In reply to Justin , there is a video from Humble Mechanic , about 2 years ago " The Best Way To Perform a Parasitic Draw Test " . They read millivolts across the fuses . The chart he uses to convert that to milliamps is in the video , is on the Power Probe website . It is another way do do this test .
This film is very confusing with all the clips to where? And can't see in film connection to multimeter, could PLEASE do a remake of a parasitic draw test Brian? Thank you sir.
I agree with both of the criticisms. None of the connections are made clear. I suspect the poster does not really understand what he is doing, even though he gets the results. (No harm intended, it just seems that way.) You can find a much clearer video at Eric the Car Guy. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KF1gijj03_0.html He takes 15 minutes, and by the end you'll underrtand what you're doing, instead of being confused. I did learn from the door latch disabler trick. I couldn't figure out how to do that on my '01 Taurus, because there are no visible interlock switches like you see on most cars. So thanks for that Makuloco.
@@SiteReader This video was shot while working at the dealer trying to be discrete. Here is my new video shot at my own shop and you can see I definitely know what I am doing with more in depth accurate information than anyone on the subject, especially when it comes to Fords. Check it out- ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6xFo_oHFF48.html
Hey I recognize that meter! I've had that same exact one for 15 years now. It's been through hell and back, and still works great - still use it every day. Got it at MMI Phoenix, 1999. Great vid BTW.
Hey FTML, I have a 2005 Ford 500 Limited, 3.0L Duratec V-6. My battery is draining overnight. Not even enough to click. I put a charger on it for about 2 minutes and the car started normally. I thought it was the battery but I doubt it now. Pretty sure I have a draw that's killing it. The other day I tried to pull the trunk light out and blew my F2 fuse. Interior lamps (Courtesy and Demand lamps) and Delayed Accessory (Power windows and Moonroof). And sure enough they weren't working. But my radio was also not working. So, I had Power to one side of F2, the blown 15 Amp fuse, but no power to F13, 7.5 Amp (Audio) and F15, 10 Amp Delayed Accessory (Driver window motor logic, Moonroof, Audio, Driver door lock switch illumination). Both these fuses were good. I didn't think that the F2 fuse would affect the radio so I checked the 30 Amp Breaker and it was good. Now I'm thinking perhaps my Delay Accessory Relay was shot. I replaced the F2 fuse and everything came back. Power to F13 and F15 and everything was working. I'm getting constant power to my F11, 20 Amp (Audio, Family Entertainment System but I was told that's normal. Everything is working fine now but I'm still waking up to a dead battery. After only 2 minutes on the charger my battery was 12.50 volts with engine off and 14.6 with engine running. My on board diagnostic is telling me charging system OK. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I was about to buy a new battery but I'm putting that on hold until I can verify what's going on.
First I love your videos that have helped working on our Fords. But for this one your video just cuts to the jumpers. not sure what they are hooked to when you pull them off. I have an 04 F150 Heritage and it it just started draining the battery in no time so trying to see what circuit is doing that.
Stupid questions: 1. Why are there 2 jumper wires? 2. Dual battery response to another commenter was to disconnect the secondary (I assume) battery negative and isolate. Would you explain 'isolate' please? 3. Ford's instructions say to install jumper before taking the neg cable off. Don't know how you'd find the room to do that, but I wonder if they're thinking an interruption might cause the offending device/module to go 'quiet'. Thank you for posting this.
Gary Schultheiss There are 2 jumpers to provide enough amperage for modules to properly operate and or go to sleep. Modules act erratic when not enough voltage is applied and can stay awake or constantly cycle leading to incorrect results. In dual battery setups we just simplify it by taking one battery out of the equation hence disconnect the secondary battery and isolate it from the negative terminal with a rag or such so they cannot touch. Then it is the same as a 1 battery setup testing wise.
What's the point of uploading a "how to" video if you slip important details like where wires get connected? It's useless without that information. You seem to admit that with the apology that includes an admission that's why you are going to re-shoot it. Yet it's been four years and another one has never been uploaded.
I wouldnt leave the fuse out as you say, theres a pretty good chance you wont remember where they re fit if you have a number of them pulled out at the same time.
I use a regular electrical tester to do the draw but it’s never works for me. Always read 0 and next day the battery is dead . Do they have special machine to do the test ?
If the parasitic draw is 0.02 Amp under 12.60 volt of 45 ah battery, what would be the parasitic current draw for 1 hour??? Is the 0.02 Amp draw is for 1 hr or 1 sec???
I have a good battery, starter , and alternator. I have just replaced the PCM relay. It is still drawing up to 350 cranking amps when starting. otherwise I have to jump it. Any advise you can give me will be greatly appreciated.
Nice info again.....i have a 06 navigator ultimate the problem it's the fuse #24 Battery saver relay it's blowing as soon u changed....looks like short some where.....I already check the PSV heated cable and its not short on it and my interior lights work fine....can u help me to fix it?
I Have a 2003 Ford F-250 6.0 Has a very fast drain. Has 2 New Batteries And new Alt. I can Start off all Fully Charged and 20 Min of driving Radio shits off and Truck runs Like a 5.4 with a bad Coil. I watched the video but I got lost with the volt meter part. Where do put the volt meter? I have never Been Good with mA/ and the like. I can fix just about anything when come to eletrical I am not that good at it. Any Help would very much be welcomed. I Love your U Tube channel. Thanks
I have a question, when my reading is 1.22 in the 10amps terminal, whats my reading in milliamps then? is it safe to use the milliamps terminal with this readings and not ruining my multi meter? thanks a lot
Dodjie Garcia Jr. since there are 1000 milliamps in 1 amp, 1.22 amps is 1220 milliamps. Does your meter have a setting between 10 amps and mA? Otherwise, you should be able to see 50 mA on the meter as 0.05 amps.
2003 Ford Focus ZTW wagon (2.3L Zetec) battery light mystery problem. I'm finding posts for this problem all over the place but no solutions. New battery, new alternator, battery still comes on. It does seem like a parasitic draw because the battery doesn't go dead seem to go dead sitting more like it goes while it is running. Ideas FordTechMakuloco? or anyone?
I have a 1993 Z28 and I've been tracking down this electrical gremlin for awhile now. I did the whole multi meter test and found out that i had a parasitic draw coming from my courtesy fuse. Now if i put this fuse in, and leave the car sit overnight, its dead come morning. So lately I've just been driving the car without the fuse in and it starts every time no problem. Yesterday i decide to plug the fuse in and disconnect the alternator. Come out in the morning and the car fires right up. Does anybody know what this might be?
Any Advise. I have in my shop a 2012 f150 ecoboost and it will drain the battery over night. I have 0.019 ma when everything goes to sleep but it still drains it over night
So would it be the cluster or a park signal issue. That might explain after opening and shutting the door the draw went from 1.6amps down to 206ma and stayed there and then suddenly went up to 1.6amps and then settled down again to 19 ma
Hello i have a 94 lincoln continental and i did this test and found out that the fuse that controls the fuel filler door, cruise control, cigar lighters and horn is causing a drain any tips on further diagnosis for each component thank you
***** Yes disconnect each component you identified in the circuit one by one at the source to find the draw. I would start at the cruise first then filler door.
I have a 1997 E-350 super, 7.3 powered van with a drain I have so far traced under the hood as being both the left AND the right turn signals. They are drawing 5.8 & 5.9 amps respectively. That's with no key in the ignition etc... and yes, I'm very confused as to where the power is going. Any best guesses what to try next? Thank you - any help is great at this point - changing that 2nd battery under the passenger seat is no fun@@
