Hi, I had carried out ball joint change yesterday, couldn’t get ball joint in.....dumped the gearbox oil in the effort.Ended up removing arm again to consider options. Watched your video and hey presto 30 mins job done.... I was trying to lift hub against shocker with no success. I was levering but your technique was better... It was one of those days yesterday “ what a difference a day makes” Thanks for your help...
Mate I had that. Still not sure if the flipping shaft is in the box. I can't for the life of me get it back in fully. Said "fuck it" and left it. Been fine for the last 6 months
I had an absolute nightmare trying to replace the lower arms last weekend. I had my bar in the wrong place and didn't even think about smashing a chisel between the bolt clamp. I just didn't have enough clearence to get the new wishbone to go under the knuckle. I did the near side with a struggle but the offside was worse. I managed to get the ball joint about 3/4 the way in and literally smashed the bolt through the knuckle and shearing the bolt threads. I've ordered new bolts and will follow the procedure in this awesome video. I wish I found this video before I started work in the car. Thanks for sharing. You will make my life a lot more easier now. !!
@@JohnSmith-vz8pc I had to change a front wheel bearing last weekend and discovered a real easy way to remove the lower wishbone arm. I jacked up the front of the car a bit higher than I normally would and put axle stands underneath, then removed the wheel, then removed the track rod end and anti roll bar. Then put the long bar on top of the lower wishbone arm and under the sub frame....then pushed the bar down and at the same time, I pushed the knuckle inwards with my foot and this technique dislodges the lower wishbone arm from the knuckle.
Good video. just did this job based on your video. Thanks. Took only 5 (!) hours for one control arm. These things are a pain!!!. To any weekend warrior reading this, I will recommend letting the mechanic deal with this. Swallow your pride and save your time. A few tips to those who attempt anyway: Make sure you have gearbox oil. The driveshaft WILL pop out. The balljoint will be pure rust and will not part from the hub as easily as seen on this or any youtube video. Consider buying a “wishbone lever”. This will help but be aware you must raise your car fairly high to use them. Buy at big chisel and cut the “chisel-shaft” in half. There won’t be enough room and a small chisel won’t spread the hub enough. Removing the outer tie-rod from the hub made it easier for me to slide the new control arm back in place. You will regret you began this job when trying to align the last bolt in the control arm. Keep trying. When popping the balljoint back in, it will pivot outwards and away from the hub. Keep trying with both a hammer and a jack. Eventually it will pop in place.
Sounds like you had a tough time tbh... I've never popped a driveshaft out the box on a 206... It will never happen on driverside too due to design Well done for accomplishing it. I'd say the biggest trick with these is in fact a helper...! Make tea and give words of encouragement. These can be tricky (never heard of one taking 5hours mind) but sounds like you got the toughest of the lot!! Again, we'll done! 👌🐷💪
Hi guys, great video. I also did this over 3 sessions this weekend! I found that I needed a spring compressor to release the ball joint. I was working on the passenger side and the drive shaft did come out liberating the contents of the gearbox on the block paving. My wife was not happy. It sounds like this is more of a problem on the left side than the right. Something to be aware of. I also found it easier to release the tracked end.
Just an update as I did this on the other side.. The control arm did slide right in.. I took 2 hours where 1,5 hours was spent separating the balljoint from the hub.
@@free4all2 I had to surrender and put it back together again. Will pop it round to my friends garage and try again there with some professional help when needed. What a pain. Thanks for telling me i wasn't the only one who struggled. Horrible job to do at the side of your house!
I fully appreciate seeing the struggle! Makes me feel like I’m doing ok with my struggle! I might try to give it another go this weekend after I gave up with the struggle last weekend lol
Yeah it's a battle. Having someone half helpful on the end of the bar while you fight the hub is very very key if you're struggling alone Have tea and biscuits on hand 👌
Thanks so much for what you do. This really helped with the front suspension rebuild on my 2003 SW. Also your heater core and brake change videos were great. No more leaks and no more squeaking. Thanks for giving me the confidence to work on my own car. By the way these 206s are good, got almost 300k km on mine and we take it through some pretty rough roads on long trips.
@@PiggyPower1.4 petrol and I'm an American living in Germany. When I needed some repairs, everyone told me I should've gotten a Golf. Interestingly enough, Pug parts are cheaper than VW here. Happy everything's running well.
Yeah, parts are massively cheaper, I've found easier to repair and actually no difference in reliability... Just how you look after them. Have fun!! 👍😁🐷💪
Great video, thank you. Currently in the middle of this job trying to get a 2001 206 back on the road after a 6 year park up!! Your tips are coming in really useful and the only bit I've struggled with was prising the ball joint out. Eventually attacked it from behind the wheel (stood by wing mirror for correct angle) and it's popped out no problem. Back to it now. Then cv boots and ABS rings!!!! No rest.
A quick tip to others......a quick rub of vegetable oil on the inside of the wishbone aperture where it's a tight squeeze for the arm bushes helped it slip right in and line up with very little messing about. Also jacking up the brake disc to compress the coil spring gave me a lot more room to play with. Hope this is of help.
Thank you so much, a brilliant walkthrough! This video will be so useful once I finally get time to fix the steering issues on my pretty tired 206 after christmas
No worries! Hope it goes well, don't get too frustrated if things get difficult, these can be a real pig(!). Took me 2 minutes to slot one arm in and 15minutes the other side. If it does help, please subscribe 😊🐷💪
Nice and easy for us to follow you as you navigate/fight the car to get important jobs done that can be done at home. Will be doing mine on my gti thank you 😅
Thanks, Piggy! I’m just about to tackle this very job, to get my wife’s little red car through the dreaded MoT! Another video, here on YT, showed the extra process of removing the Hub Nut and withdrawing the whole Brake assembly from the Driveshaft. I really didn’t want to have to do that, so I will be following your excellent guide! Wish me luck👍🏻👍🏻
if you have them, it's aT16 socket for the top 12:10 it comes out easily to the REAR of the hub. Also, its MUCH easier to refit, if you use coil spring compressors, as the wishbone inner bushes are designed to sit flat with the suspension fully compressed (weight of car of the wheels) so it you measure the hub position before jacking, and then compress at least that much, the bottom of the hub won't be in the way (as you found) also, this doesn't strain the inner bushes so much on installation, and so they with last longer.
Also on the spring compressors, yes this is true, but I'm doing a guide for the average Joe here ..and 99/100 DIY mechanics havnt got spring compressors. All you say is true though
Thanks for the great video man! I'd like to add some tricks I found useful: instead of a pipe, you can use a crowbar and put it against the steering ball. If the the ball joint pin of the wishbone has trouble coming out, you can try raising the hub with a jack and a piece of wood.
Never lever against the steering rack or arm/joint. You will damage or bend it for sure. They are weak on the 206 as it is. Jacking the hub can help as you've found but I wouldn't reccomdend it without knowing the experience of the DIY mechanic as it increases risk dramatically.
That can depend on the quality of the spanner, 6 or 12 sided and the condition of the torx bolts. . . I have a number of tricks I use or tools but in a guide I have to think of the 999/1000 rather than just me.
Got quoted £370 to change these on both sides on my 206.. If I can't do it myself based on this tutorial she's going to scrap, no pressure Piggy! (oh, btw I've never done any work on a car, besides changing a tyre). I'll let you know how it went!
@@PiggyPower couldn't get the second bush to line up (the one you struggled with). bashed the wishbone in for over 2 hours and it didn't move an inch! lowered car back down to try again tomorrow and drive shaft went - car scrapped! Atleast, I still tried tho :/
@@emsbikestories2491 if after a few minutes of bashing it won't go .. there will be a reason, jack the wishbone up a little to get it level, get a lever in there to help pull it into place... Think outside the box a little. What do you mean by the "driveshaft went"?!
@@PiggyPower ran out of time after 5 hours 🤣 put it back down to park it very slowly and both wheels went opposite ways and the shaft broke. It's scrapped already, but i at least gave it a try. 0 previous experience
Broke the shaft? 😮 Wow. Never seen anyone manage that! Wish you had messaged the Piggypower FB page... Could have lent some advice across the web! Whereabouts are you?
That's not a bad idea... But then, if you treat the nut and bolt right, shouldn't be a need. . . Sometimes you can outprice a cheap job if you get every possible replaceable part.
Instead of the grip for the trx of the arms, i suggest you to use a 13mm, either with a socket or with the same kind of key you used to hold the 17mm of the ball joint, it does the work easier!
You'll likely round off a 13mm pretty easily with these torx heads. You can get proper spanners for them tbh but most people have a pair of vicegrips in their tool box 👍🐷😁
Hi there, I love your videos I live in Australia I have done the odd one or two lower control arm replacement, I used to be an Peugeot Mechanic. If you don’t mind me saying I used to release the tension on the 4 torx bolts that hold the k frame if you just lower them a little bit not totally just a little it will take the tension off the strut assembly enough to not make this job a painful experience.
Yeah, that is one way. However, for many DIY guys, and the age of the vehicles, this can result in nightmare problems, like snapped bolts in your chassis. Plus I always reccomdend supporting the car by the subframe not the sill when doing suspension work if at all possible
@@ljubisapavic if you've hacked the car up on the jacking point on the sill.... You can't then place a stand on the same spot. Plus it can add some stability, esp if your sills are worse for wear or you have corrosion in them
I have a terrible rattle on my 206. Think i am gonna do a full rebuild on the suspension this summer lol Front and rear. Idk what could cause rattle on the rear.
Rear could be, the boot catch, spare wheel/cage, exhaust or the rear axle. Hopefully one of the cheap ones for you! Fronts is usually anti roll bar links. Cheap and easy
Have you known for ball joint not to clear, with arm levered down to full travel, was told to lower engine bed 25mm leaving bed bolt's in then ball joint clears housing.
Presume "engine bed" is the subframe? It may well assist but just be super careful. I find most who have the issue your describing don't have the car up high enough for a big enough bar to lever down. They can be really really tricky sometimes 👍🐷👌
Depends how many times theyve been used, the condition and length of stretch... Which is why while torque settings are great for new bolts, I generally find experience and feel for how tight a bolt needs to be is the way forward... A difficult thing to teach/explain though.
The Haynes Workshop Manual says: "lower arm mounting bolts 141 Nm (104 lbf ft)" which is different from your 11 daNm which is only 110 Nm when converted. So different sources giving different torque settings? However the lower arm balljoint clamp bolt setting given is the same "40 Nm (30 lbf ft)" or 4 daNm
Piggy Power great video! But do you know if it is possible on a Peugeot 206 to replace just the ball joint itself as I cannot find information about that anywhere? With this video I could probably manage to replace the entire wishbone but only if that is the only option. (Would hate to mess up with the driveshaft..)
Looking to change them on mine, since I can't seen to find an annoying intermittent steering vibration that I get, I've balanced my wheels (They are centreless versions of the wheels on yours and can be annoying to balance) and have Bridgestone Turanza's all round so the tyres aren't out of shape. Had a new o/s driveshaft since the spring in the joint was snapped and causing an annoying ticking. But other than that can't seem to find any other problems with the suspension other than the bushings that are mounted on the subframe are really perished, and they appear to be original, hopefully I'll be able to do it on the floor 😅
@@PiggyPower I’ve changed the inner tie rods and track rod ends since they were seized and made wheel alignment nearly impossible. It seems to shake intermittently and especially noticeable on rougher roads and I seem to feel like I can feel every imperfection in the road, I thought it could be the something related to the strut assembly but there’s no weeping from the shocks and the springs are in good nick. I work for a garage and my manager has driven the car and claims it’s just the age of the car but it’s only cropped up this year
Also there is a little play in the rack but not anything unusual for a car if it’s age, I’ve check the steering fluid level and It’s right, put the power steering pump is a little noisy at slow speeds but that’s just a characteristic it’s had since owning it
@@PiggyPower I wouldn’t necessarily say the shaking is ‘intermittent’ I should have worded it a little better 😂 sometimes it’s minor and doesn’t feel too bad and on some roads it’s almost like the balancing is out and at especially lower speeds like in town and it’s particularly bad
Thank you for a great walk through, you made it look pretty simple, let you know how simple when the other half changes mine....will get the swear tin ready though.
To be fair... If I had a helper nearby I'd be asking them to stand on the lever bar... They can be really tricky at times. But be thankful they are 407 lower arms!! 😆😋
Try pushing the arm down to get the ball joint in the hub when you've just fitted Poly Bushes on the arm 😂😂 I had to put the joint in the hub first, jack the arm and strut up and swing the arm in the subframe.
Poly bushes should make it easier, they are designed to allow less strain/tension on the suspension (spring/damper)... Essentially less unsprung tension the less work the damper and spring need to do. A bigger bar and friend also always helps ...leverage is king
Hi, i follow your site and my daugnter has a 206. I did the heater matrix seals using your site. Not cured. Do u know if there are bulkhead drains. I can find 207 306 etc but not 206. Wandering if has one is blocked. Thanks if you can help
Work your way up with a leak...also worth smelling and feeling the fluid, coolant is quite a distinctive smell and greasey to the touch. Check door seals. Pretty common. Under scuttle can fill up too
Tried doing this on the passenger side side and it did what you said about spilling gearbox oil oil over the place, i pushed it back in and it stopped leaking am worried I'v disturbed something or not put it back in properly, i got the new wishbone in place but couldn't line up the ball joint end to the hub so gave up and put the old wishbone back in which went back in easy because the bushes shit to bits it offered back up easily, every time i went to line up the ball joint it would spill gear oil, any tips?
Hi there... A friend to keep the hub pushed in helps... Also having it at the right angle. If you haven't a friend to keep pressure on the hub face, something else you can try is undoing the big hub nut and knocking the shaft through a bit, thus stopping the shaft coming out. . . Keep at it, they are tricky.
I used a rachet strap round the shock and the subframe to hold it in on the driver's side... I dropped the gearbox oil on my first attempt on the passenger side. I filled it back up again using the breather on top of the gearbox. Might be worth doing a video guide on this last bit if you haven't already.
I find that removing the shaft from the hub gives me a little more movement to get the front E torx bolt out and I use a 13mm spanner instead of the grips on the E torx bolt. I have tried the method of undoing the 4 subframe bolts a bit to lower it down for more movement but when the captive nuts start spinning, you begin to wish you hadn't touched them. Have you started on the fmic yet?
Indeed this can help, but with the N/S it's likely the shaft can slip out the box and spill the oil. Plus most DIY mechanics won't have the tools to remove it... But it's true it can help. I find a spanner in the torx easily spins.... But if it works, it's not stupid 👍😆 🐷💪
Thanks, really great content. 95nm for the two bolts, 65nm for the pinch bolt. I watched this for those figures. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9nNx8cxXjF4.html there's also another 10 Mon fix & the gentleman takes the steering joint off to allow more freedom.
I find taking the TRE off makes it more difficult as the hub just flops around. Fine if you've got another set of hands. But on your own, very hard... And it often results in pulling the shaft out more easily too = gearbox oil everywhere
Hi PP, just changed os arm, did you have any problems with the ns arm regarding the rear bolt fouling on the brake lines on the chassis leg when trying to remove it as it looks close to them.
@@rinko123gtg9 we have awful roads round here, esp the one to our home... Drop links are a regular replacement thing, every couple years I find. But not lower arms. Try some Delphi or meyle ones
Hi, I have a 206 xs 1.6 16v with 260 k on the clock and 16 years, I've changed the lower control arm twice. This is a clear weak point of this car. Beware the rear axle is even worst especially on the SW models. check also the front anti roll bar, they usually failed with the lower control arm. chopped, mad : MCM fan ???
260k and 16yrs and two lower arms.... Only 2? Seems VERY good to me! I find cheap arms also fail sooner than premium or genuine Peugeot items. All the rear axles are just as bad as each other....bashing the rear wheels are usually the issue, that and a lot of salt roads. Never ever seen a failed anti roll bar. 100% MCM old school fan. Their newer stuff I've found not as good as original but still love them. Watched from the beginning. Inspired me doing my channel. Thanks for watching and commenting 🐷💪👍
@@PiggyPower For the specific parts I prefer Peugeot genuine parts, more expensive but most of the time more reliable. for the rear axle, i've have the problem : the swing arm bearings failed and disintegrate. there is no way to put grease on them. The only solution is to change bearings and shaft or the complete rear axle. For the anti roll bar, my mistake, it's the anti roll bar link. I saw on your video you've already done it. thanks for your grate job, it's inspire me to work on my old 206. I've just discover your channel , and I really like it. it's between MCM and "The south main auto"
The anti roll bar drop link is super common on EVERY car on the road. I replace them regularly on all my customers vehicles. Just be thankful they are cheap and easy to do on a 206! As regards rear axle .. consider; you won't have needed to replace ANY drop links, bushes or arms on the rear suspension since the car was new. Admittedly it's £200-300 for a refurbed/rebuilt rear axle when it happens... But spread that over the miles/years... Much cheaper than independent suspension setups from other companies like BMW/Mercedes/Audi/Ford where the arms/bushes and joints are horrendous to replace and expensive and fail more than once in the cars lifetime. . . You could call it a weak spot and it is something to look out for on aged 206/306 cars... But I don't think it's weak when you consider the age, the work it's done, the cost over time to fix Vs other vehicles and that it's fully independent suspension... Way ahead of other companies making small hatches 👍🐷💪
Doing this now, the only issue I have is the torx and 21mm bolts are the opposite way round on my car lol, I've had to resort to, pinching the nut with molegrips and then using an adapter on a wheel brace to undo the torx, it's slow going haha
@@PiggyPower Hello, me again, I've ran into another problem, I've got the new wishbone in and the 2 bolts with the bushes done up, and I have the ball joint in the sleeve, the problem is the 'bolt' on the new ball joint is a bit thicker than the old one, so there's a bit slightly blocking the hole, and the bolt I took out doesn't have a cut out or squared off bit, it's just round. So any suggestions? My guess was just to hammer it as hard as I could lol but thought I'd try asking first
If the ball joint shaft is ACTUALLY bigger, then it's the wrong one. Most likely is it's just a tight fit. It shouldn't be easy to get in, little tap to line up the slot is 100% normal.
@@PiggyPower Well I hope its not the wrong one after getting it in lol, is it normal that my bolt doesn't have a slot in it? I remember having the same issue when I did the other side, but my brother managed to get it through last time, I'll try again tomorrow with day light and fresh eyes
If your bolt had a slot in it...the bolt would be useless and allow the ball joint to fall out!!! The bolt goes through the slot in the ball joint to prevent it sliding up/down in the hub.
I can’t get the tie rod end bolt off it just keeps spinning by itself. I’ve tried to use the trolley jack to lift the underneath of the tie rod end and the bolt does loosen but then just gets stuck. Any advice?
Really? I don't think I've ever found a need to remove the TRE to do a lower wishbone. I hate doing more work than ever necessary! If the joint is spinning, it may be worn. To remove it though, I'd suggest nipping it back up and cleaning up the threads like they were new and inspecting them to check none are damaged. If damaged, file them straight and try again. If damaged beyond repair, new TRE and cut the damaged threads off. 👌🐷💪
Piggy Power the German engine (bmw and psa) 😂😂 and small steering wheel quite nippy for a 1.2 but then again the 206 is nippy too. And easier to work on as bolts are not rusted too much
Piggy Power it only being 3 cylinder over the 4 on the 206, so Torque is lacking a wee bit. Just found out there’s a recall on my engine imbalance on the crankshaft. Found this out when buying parts at the Peugeot dealership
im doing the left side right novv, alot of oil has came out vvhere the driveshaft goes in the transmission. Do i need to do anything, or can i just push it in and fill up transmission oil?
@@PiggyPowerI don't know if you still read comments but we are stuck on 6:02. The ball won't come off like it does for you in 6:11. I even jumped on the bar and I have tried to widen the gap above with a chisel in order for it to loosen but it has not been helping. There are noticeable gaps between the chisel part and the ball bearing part and I mean the part where that knob connects to the hole. I also tried to adjust the brake disc assembly height-wise up and down but it didn't help either. If it is of importance, the ball joint is in somewhat different angle compared to the brake disc assembly. Is there anything else we could do? Heat that up with a flame breather?
@@tuomasheikkinen9251 have another person or some weight on the long bar... My bar there is about 5 foot long... A jack with a little pressure upward on the bottom of the ARB bar .. push inwards on the hub (towards the engine) ...smack the lower arm with a big hammer. (Try all that after loads of freeing oil and tapping the joint back in and out of the hub a few times to ensure it's moving freely)
@@PiggyPower i know has a bigger ball joint, 18mm ?? other is 15mm but such hard work as the car is a 1.4 sport 16v 2ac so pretty much basic with a few jazzy bits on it, but what the heck is the difference in the wishbones, apart from about £25..