Front suspension lower arm replacement 

Most people especially women think guys have the natural trait of being mechanically inclined.

The voiceover recommended torquing the bolts up when the the wheel was on, but thats not what he did. Thank's for explaining why its important.

@@imnotamechanic3491 ah, OK. resting the car on it's wheels before torquing the bolts is also an alternative. However often not as convenient😀

And hitting the ball joint with Metal hammer is also not good.

I've just started this, and I've had to stop because I ended up with the shock pulling away from the body of the car, which pulled the driveshaft out of the gearbox and has dumped it's oil.

Spot on advice, small set of spring compressors on the strut to take up the excess extension of the strut makes it easier to replace the ball joint and prevents the drive shaft from being pulled out of the gearbox .... (in my limited experience)..

It is very straightforward on the R/H side as the driveshaft has an intermediate bearing which prevents the shaft from falling out of the gearbox, I learned the hard way (on the L/H side) like CableWrestler !

Nightmare of a job lol, I am doing it now, getting the lower ball joint together is no fun at all.

the 2 chassis bolts are 103lb/ft and ball joint 30lb/ft or 140nm and 40nm

Estou apanhando pra encaixar o pivô no local. Soltei o encaixe do câmbio.onde você roda e movimenta motor

Andrew Snowden e16 bro.

Échange amortisseur avant Peugeot 206

Yes

Darath Ny hahaha..Thats exactly what im trying to type on the comments earlier..

just use any strong piece of steel, I used to have a 4ft pole flattened at one end makes it so much easier. The one he used for getting the ball joint off is called a ball joint slitter and you use it by aligning the shaft between the 2 prongs and hitting it with a hammer not as a lever like in the video. However after watching again I believe he uses it like that so he doesnt destroy the ball joint dust cover www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-Fork-Car-Ball-Joint-Seperator-Separator-Splitter-Tool-Tie-Rod-End-Lifter-/222404326887?hash=item33c854b5e7:g:E8cAAOSwh2xYAkly

I am inclined to agree, as even refitting a nut to a threaded shaft provides some protection to the thread before hitting with a hammer. Otherwise, a nice video and a decent repair.

I was about to write the exact same thing then noticed your post. It can be replaced without removing the tie rod too. If you notice before he takes the ball joint off there is a metal ball joint dust cover which im guessing is why he levered it off

if you pay $60 per hours someone to do this youre getting mugged lad xDDD

This guy makes an easy job look hard, wouldn't want him within 10 miles of my car!

+Márcio R. Hi as seen in the video 4:36 this part has a rubber cone ring on one point and middle so as rubber covered container on other point where thick oil is stored, with time passing oil gets dry and so as rubber and get tiff(might crack brake come loose and boom)....You do maintenance in order to everything function as it should. Welcome

+Wurth ok thanks

Won't happen on the right side, on the left side it does idd. I found out the hard way.

Yes, you are correct, I had the same unhappy experience a year ago. The driveshaft design is different on the R/H side and has an intermediate bearing which prevents it from ejecting from the gearbox when separated from the stub axle.The L/H driveshaft is one-piece and can fall straight out from the gearbox when released from the hub.

Yes, who has locking pliers THAT big?