How to properly adjust your carburetor on a Farmall tractor. How to fix a very old gas tractor. How to fix a very old tractor. #FarmallFanatic #farmall
I learned a new trick this week for sticky float, run tractor full throttle then pull choke out. It will give an extra flow of gas knocking out dirt sticking in the seat . Saved me from removing carb and no leakage any longer !
@@FarmallFanatic Have seen video saying this stickiness is caused by ethanol gasoline. Metal polished mine (needle) and will begin running carb cleaner through mine after each use before shutting down with non-ethanol gas only.
Brother, I like how you state the issue and promise it will be fixed, then you do it. Why does this video not have 1 million views already!!! Great job battle, keep up coming.
Thankyou for sharing! I have a 1941 m that's ready to have its heartbeat restored and with your videos I have a great starting point for the adjustments!🚜
I had to adjust the Carburetor on my 8N once and it's very similar just a tad different. I had a Manual and it helped. thanks for sharing this will help a lot of people.
You gave good advice. I Live at 600-800 ft elevation and took my tractor to Colorado at 5000ft plus and had to readjust the carb. I also have a M, thanks for your videos
Never done a Farmall carburettor but the settings you describe an procedure is very similar to other petrol tractors, over here most of our spark ignition tractors run petrol to warm up then switch over to kerosene and sometimes you just have to accept a happy medium for the two fuels although as the tractor when it's working is usually running on Kerosene most people tweek the carburettor for under load 👍👍
Great info I just rebuilt my carb on my super m and having trouble keeping it running def gonna give this a try my neighbor has a H and said the exact same thing your explaining
On the farms 1948 M, I set the main jet while I have it on the 10” x 71 foot swing auger. The M does not handle the auger like the 1206 does, but I love not having to climb up in the cab 4 times for every semi load! The M does good enough, I love that I can start it, engage the PTO, disengage the PTO, shut it off, all from the ground!
A big reason for that is they were designed to be used as belt power for things around the farm. Before electric was readily available belt power ran mills and shellars. They had to be operable from the ground.
Good job i agree with everything you said. 0ver the years I've rebuilt and tuned a lot of Gravely carburetors. There very similar to what you have. Just like the "M"s each one has its own personality. Also following the recommended factory settings will get you pretty close. But you always have to do a little bit of tweaking.
hey i have a gravely model LI and the needle valve is very loose and is not tight enough in the carb to stay in while running and it leaks alittle , any tips or ideas?
Ours always wanted to overflow out of the top. They are fairly easy to fix. Goo job love these vids of my youth. Holt shit that makes me old. Take Care bud.
I bought a 6.5 liter one, it handles the Farmall M carb great. I bought mine for $180. I have found a lot of things to put in the ultra sonic, now that I have one sitting on the bench.
We where having issues with the cast iron carb on our Super A. I have cleaned it. however it has a fixed main jet and likely jetted for the smaller 113 engine. Sowe ordered a brand new carb from E Bay. It has arrived Very nice looking carb. has a adjsustable main jet. new gaskets studs nuts and inline fitting. We will do a install and make a video in a few days. Cost of carb including tax was only $41!
Good advice good vid. One thing all colors backi then had in commom is, a tweek with a plow in the ground is the final adjustment. Also a tiny bit rich makes them start better. Have you seen Phil yet. ??? He should be out messing around.
Clean fuel is always key, no doubt that if you start from scratch on factory adjustments and you still cant get it to run right you have dirt problems either in your fuel or in the carburetor itself
Modern fuel with alcohol makes these old carbs goofy. Every time you buy gasoline the alcohol content will be slightly different. Which means sometimes it will run lean and sometimes it won't. We take the pain and buy alcohol free fuel and then the carb adjustments actually stay good. Also alcohol free gas runs much cooler in your air cooled engines which is better for the engine and prevents fuel line cavitation. If you have had a garden tractor or lawn mower conk out on a hot day you know what I mean.
Was over at a friend's house who has a very nice example of this model. He was tapping the side of the carb to stop it from leaking, as you were saying. I had never looked at 1940 stuff and asked what the tube at the top left does, and although he is a very talented guy, who works on all of his own stuff, he didn't know. I assumed it draws warm air from the engine, but I'd love to REALLY know what it is.
I think he meant the tube coming of the top of valve cover. I was curious about that too. Mine has been blocked off and book tells me nothing. Thanks for the tuning tips. I just rebuilt my utility 300. It starts and runs about 30 seconds or less and I have gone thru the carb 3 times. 1st time it was not getting fuel, 2nd time flooding out, now it seems OK with float but I can't seem to keep it running long enough to adjust squat.
fantastic video i have an International AW6 i went to start it it spins over with starter then goes bang-out exhaust i pulled the H4 mag to bits i timed the mag gears the two little ones the only thing it can be now is fuel i have noticed the idle air screw is turned all the way in seated should that be turned out 1 full turn will that cause the tractor not to start
Cranked all the way down it would definitely cause it not to run or not to run correctly. Try following these exact steps and see where it gets you, but I know cranked down tight it should not be
My tractor runs good with the chock half closed. When I open the chock it stumbles back fires sometimes and dies like it ran out of fuel. I did take carb off and clean it and used old gaskets and rv sealer. It ran great last summer. I added some fresh gas. Thoughts, sorry by the way I'm working on a Ford 800.
There is a screen on the inlet. This will Always get gunked up. Clean it every season start. Run engine up to 1500 then tune main jet for drop in RPM. Tune idle air fuel, then back to main,finish with idle.
They're pretty similar with these old tractors, you ain't gonna learn if you don't make mistakes. Even a turtle has to stick it's head &legs out to move ...
Thanks for the info. I have a question, I bought a new zenith carburetor for my Farmall Super C and right away it started to leak from the bottom, I will try the hammer method.
Adjust your float according to the manual and if you have to hit it with a hammer-use a rubber mallet please. Mine has several flat spots on it. I never have to hit with anything. Just my 2 cents.
im working on the carb on a 300 utility in a forklift and I can only get it to run with choke on. Had a very experienced tractor mechanic rebuild the carb for me but I still cant get it set. Its especially goofy in a forklift because its got a springy momentary throttle. Any thoughts on how to get it to run with choke off? Its got a new sediment bowl and inline filter but inline filter is never full either. Thanks!
Good video. Sounds about right to me. I do keep the main needle a five turns on my H for plowing & other heavy work & 2 3/4 for light duty fartin' around the yard. Same for the 400 I had at one point in history. I recall there being an issue with running an engine too lean. Was it cylinder scoring? Anywho, your experience with four turns max makes me wonder if the needle for the M is shorter.... or is the needle in the aftermarket kit shorter? I've scrounged Ebay, the Parts Depot & other resources for years to keep myself in NOS carb & other parts. So, I don't know if there is a difference. And YES, don't crank those needles in until they scream. You'll put a notch in them, shoulder them or both. It looks like you have a screw loose on the carb end of your governor tube. Might just be seeing it wrong, too. Your friend "Tom" the spambot is back in the comments, also. Have a good one!
@@FarmallFanatic Tom is an account used by a spammer to glean peoples personal info, should they engage. Same thing if you see Tim, Tem &/or Tyler. They all have the same logo & are up to equal amounts of no good. There's also Mrbeast that offers up free stuff to get your info & Ximer Tracks that does the same. There's another big one & my CRS is kicking in at the moment. I'll post back when I remember.
Ikon Sees Mr No I like the premium carburetor kits from Steiner Tractor Parts. Either the IHS 3164 or the IHS 3328. About $75, but has all the parts, throttle shaft, plate, screws, bushings. Choke shaft, plate, screws, bushings, ball, spring seals. Main jet needle, idle jet needle, all screws, all gaskets. For a big help to overhaul the IHC carburetor, get the Red Power Magazine March/April 2019, page 59 to 64, by The Tractor Doctor. It sure helped me! Hello from north east Montana!
That depends on how long it's gonna be before I use it next. The problem with prolonged dry out in the carb is that you can get condensation...which can lead to rust in the bowl.
@@FarmallFanatic Good to know. I'm restoring an M and I've been having issues with the fuel dripping out of the bowl and the mixture being too rich which is causing an extra popping sound. Thanks for the info!
In Ohio we can't get non alcohol gas . If the tractor sits for anything over a week, it's best to shut off the gas at the tank and let the carburetor run dry. That alcohol is a mess! I have found Turbo Blue locally which is more expensive. We have a few alcohol plants in the state so it's legislated into our gas. Nice. Maybe "they" don't want us to store gas. I haven't seen where Stabil works very well either. Side note- these tractors were made to 70 octane fuel so they'll run on this stuff just fine if you don't leave it in there. Pain in the ass. Thanks for the common sense tutorial!
@farmallfanatic Thanks for the great video! New to tractors here... We have a McCormick W4 to maintain to cottage road and we have a problem with it this year after sitting for the winter. Took us a while to get it running, but it does only at half choke. It will stall at full choke or no choke. Any pointers? Could that be a symptom of a dirty carb? Thanks in advance! Felix
Yes it was left outside and not really protected from the snow apart from a bucket over the exhaust. I know, I'll take charge of the winter storage from now on and make sure it has a roof to protect from the elements...
Fuel has been drained from both the tank and the carb. It starts easy after turning the starter with full chock for an instant (it will do its typical fuel overflow spray), than pause, than closing the choke and hitting the starter again. It will run for 10 seconds and then die.
Quick update... I disassembled the carburetor today, cleaned all the internals and fuel paths with spray carb cleaner and the tractor is back at work! Thanks for you videos!
I have a 1948 Farmall cub with a after market carb and i adjusted it to 1 1/2 turns out and it would not start then i turned it to 2 1/2 out and it ran just as it did before the adjustment.
This video got me thinking about my M, to start it I have to hold the choke in a certain spot and to keep it running I have to feather the choke for a minute or two.Originally I thought it was just the cold but it did it last summer too. I was wondering if all M's do this or is there something I can do to fix this. If there is something I can do could to fix it, can I get some guidance on this problem.
Have you drained your carburetor fuel bowl and your gas tank sediment bowl. That sounds like my Farmall SMTA when it has water in the fuel. Good luck. Hello from north east Montana.
Choke means not enough fuel. Do what they said first but, more than likely dirty carb and poor adjusting. Should idle without any choke. Start there and then make other adjustments. M
I have a goofy question for ya. I have a 47M and I love it! I keep it in good order but lately when I come back from the field, (specifically when the engine is good and warm) I’ll shut her down and she don’t quite wanna quit. She stops and pops, and stops and pops and so on. So I just turn the fuel off, turn Er back on and let her run a bit then shut her off and she sputters like Kirby the luv bug and quits. Lol suggestions? Timing?
What spark plugs are you using? Too hot of plugs can cause that..Put a test light on the switch side of the coil and see if power is getting to it. If it is the switch is bad or something is backfeeding it. If no light, then it is carbon in cyls. If you have a mag, then unplug one spark plug wire and see if it is sparking, no sparking = carbon. If sparking, may be the shut off not working in mag.
You already got the answer. Carbon is easiest to fix maybe.. Fog it with sea foam a couple of times while it's hot. And kill it as it's really smoking. Let it soak over nite. Also run some in your gas a couple of tanks it will knock carbon out of there. Especially in the air intake til it really smokes. Then shut off and soak over nite. Sea foam is a quart of kerosene with a jigger of acetone in it.
If the floats getting sticky you can get away with some seafoam cleaner , just put two cans in the fuel tank with a few gallons of fuel and it does a decent job at cleaning the carb up a little bit. Also if your tractors acting funny all of a sudden dont mess with the carb first, the settings don't change themselves
@@FarmallFanatic haha indeed, I don't care for it either but it does clean carbs up pretty well. I usually just take the whole thing apart and spray it with brake cleaner to get the varnish off .
I have a Marvel schebler TSX 785 and I got a problem with it, the carburetor is newly rebuilt and thoroughly cleaned by professionals who specialize in rebuilding carbs and it works just fine when my tractor is running but when it's standing for a couple hours then fuel starts leaking out at the choke mechanism, it's strange the carb is newly rebuilt and I do have the factory fuel bowl filter and I added an inline filter too so dirty fuel isn't the problem. I'm wondering what the problem could be?
I did a complete rebuild on my carburetor for my super w6 but now the tractor wont run off full choke. I have changed all the setting on the carb and it doesn't change a thing. Would it still be the carb or do I have another issue somewhere?
Carburetor adjustment on Gas powered tractors is crucial for optimum engine performance just like injection pump adjust is crucial for diesel powered tractors...
My idle air mixture screw can’t turn because there the end of the flat screwdriver goes is old and worn out. What could I do, rip it out and get a new one ? If so where can you get those
I hope you can help. I bought a Farmall 460 from my father in law to help ease his mind. It has a miss to the engine. I changed, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, points and condenser. No change, one guy says bent push rod. Another says sticky valves. I know the valves was never adjusted. Is that a possibility?
Hi, I just purchased a farmall m model 1951 , ran ok ,seems like it was missing or running rough but load up on trailer drove home 50 miles once i got home it would start anymore just cranks & cranks . Notice carburetor leaks a lot of fuel from bottom of it just kind drains like steady stream so im sure carburetor needs rebuild, i did start at frist with that issue and ran for a bit but now it won't run what do you think can be the issue ? Or should I check ? Appreciate your help thanks
When gas runs out of the carb like that, your float is stuck. Take a hammer and lightly tap on the side of the carb. If that dont work, put a can of saefoam in your tank. If that dont work, the carb needs rebuilt
The only difference between the 400 carb and the M carb is the choke control connects to the motor side using a cable on the 400 and on the M using a rod on the side away from the motor.
Farmall Fanatic The SMTA has a rod on the motor side of the carburetor to run the choke. An old IHC mechanic told me why the M & some Super M have the choke rod on the outside of the carburetor. If you are hand cranking a tractor, you want the choke very accessible! I have seen some old hand crank tractors with a choke rod right on the side of the radiator close to the crank! Hello from north east Montana.
Just had my dad take the carb for my H to his work they have one of those ultra sonic cleaners like your talking about it was black when it went there came back looking great they clean everything real good. Going to have them do the A carb next after the lock down is done I switched over to rec fuel which is 100% gasoline that tank on my a had algae in it clogged up the sediment bowl and the float was stuck once I put some air in the line drained all the unleaded gas out went now I tried to go through the carb but I think that it needs a ultrasonic cleaning as well
I had my M carburetor rebuilt by a local mechanic and now the float sticks. If you pull the bottom of the carburetor off, the valve with plastic tip stays up in the slot. Do you have a solution for this? The tractor will run for about five minutes with a load and then shut off. Thank you very much!
I have a farmall international 424 that I'm trying to fix. When you start it it runs wide open what can I do to fix this? Any help would be appreciated....
Have you changed the load adjustment? That idle screw only effects the mixture at idle. Are you gettin some black or brownish smoke when you pull the throttle open? If you can't lean it out with the load screw then you will have to lower the float setting. That is adjust so that the valve closes "sooner (lower fuel level in bowl)
Problems to watch for. Throttle shaft wear, it screws up the "econonomizer" Float rubbing against the bowl equals flooding, fuel starvation or intermittently both. Don't forget water and rust in the gas tank.
@@FarmallFanatic No sir, it is kind of funny, the way that I am raised I don't get a phone till I drive and I don't get my license until the 17th of this month. My dad is on Facebook though.
