Problems with Your Farmall Tractor's Carburetor? Try This! How to fix your carburetor on your antique tractor. How to figure out what is wrong with your tractor's carburetor. #farmallfanatic #farmall #antiquetractors
Little girl is doing good pulling the 2 bottom plow. I have clay here and a 1 bottom 16" does a good job with the A. Good video as always. Man I hope you get some good drying weather to be able to get back in the field. Thanks for sharing.
Used to run an Farmall A spraying loved it although don’t remember that switch on it and never had any problems starting it thanks for the “ride “ brought back some good memories
Don't care what has in these days when the price goes up the quality gets worse. I have resort to putting in 2 stroke fuel just to get some lubricant in the carb for these old machines
We had calcium chloride In all 6 of our Super A’s 2 of which we plowed snow with in the winter! I gotta hand it to you, you’re willing to step out of the box and show what these tractors are capable of! You’re probably the only one to hook a two bottom to one and make it work! Great ideas, great videos ! Here in Northern AZ we have rebuilt 35 or so OEM carbs of various tractor makes and models! Oh BTW we pulled a 4 corn planter with a Super A or 15 acres of green beans once!
Great video Farmall, very informative. Crazy how much rain you guys have been getting in western PA so far, over here in the east we've had some storms but no water quite like that yet
Really interesting to listen to you share your Farmall tractor knowledge. Thanks for not only sharing the knowledge but also showing the practical field application. Wow you certainly did have quite a rainfall.
i just ha good chuckle..I'm sitting on my couch wearing my International Harvestor button shirt..I own a Deere, a White, and a Ferguson ...I guess I need an an IH?? Enjoy the content, keep em coming. Thk
Something to keep in mind here and this is where you can get into trouble. An A and a C actually use the same basic engine. From the factory they were rated at different RPMs and different pistons were used but the other 90% of the engine was the same from an A to a C. Obviously many of these tractors have been rebuilt over the years and your A engine might have gotten the higher compression C pistons etc. This is all well and good, the rest of the driveline and cooling system might not be up to the task though.
Good morning there fanatic! I would submit that there's a possibility there that you need to check the adjustment of your throttle in relation to your governor we have an old be here that we rebuilt last Summer turned out really well but with it you have to set your throttle up almost half pull the choke clear out doesn't matter how warm or cold it is hit the starter and as soon as it fires push the choke in about halfway but online if you pull it clear back to like about the third notch in the throttle it'll stall and that's just the way it's set. My see which is has that other fellow commented basically the same engine it set a little bit different if you give it more than three or four notches on the throttle lever it will actually flood. And then it will smoke like what you got going on there in a blue black smoke you see black smoke you're flooded. So I've been checking my throttle and Governor adjustments just to see exactly where you're at it maybe getting a little bit too much gas too quick
LOVE the alphabet tractors p.s. oh The A super A and 100 my dad had the left and right plow mount on back of all 3 of these tractors went out the field loaded his pipe with tobacco and off he went 20 acre field and more he loved the power of the little a style tractors
Farmall Fanitic :) also fuel spring in carb solved problem for sure plus filter in line help lots more and that sure Big Generator on Farmall A how many amps is it ! Also rebuild carb be excellent too and needle valve dirty plus float must be stick I bet and gasket may need replacement on mouth to intake too! Do all Farmall tractor gas have Zenith 1 barrel and hope they do because last long time ! Also air filter may need clean too plus oil pan to needs change too! Also all Farmall motors need keep 5% or no Ethonal gas to run perfectly I found out and if have Ethonal up past 5% lose RPM plus Speed even Hp and Torque also STP Total Treatment Fuel injection and carb cleaner put in clean Ethonal out fast as Seafom does plus more! Also on Cold or Hot starts should flick choke on and off with throttle to low to high idles just before crank over try too ! Then see if more choke can or throttle too !
Mine has a mounted 16 inch plow. Over a acre it gets hot. I now leave the plowing To my M Deere two 16s and go to town. A's are awesome but they get hot quick under load. If your not careful they end up with cracked blocks in a hurry. But I too have tried the two bottoms just because.
I have a Farmall 140 from 1974 and backed it out of the shed to mow with. It ran for a couple minutes and shut off. Now, it only starts for a second and shuts off. Seems to be getting fuel to the carb and a little sediment in bottom of glass bowl but sediment bowl is stuck and won’t come down. It was a new one that was changed last year.
The glass sediment bowl seems to be stuck and won’t come down after unscrewing the piece that holds it in place from the bottom. It’s a replacement and not exactly like the original.
Our Super A has a water pump. Because it has a 200 engine. The tires had calcium however i drained most of it out. I mix a 1/2 pint of super tech outboard motor oil with every gallon of gas. that way my gas is colored blue. And i can tell how much water is in the settlement bowl. I also use the large glass bowl like a M or H has. Just me but I prefer to disk then plow then disk again pulling a spike tooth harrow behind the disk on the last disking. Dad always said if you dont disk before you plow sod you get air pockets? I sometimes use Chemtool in the gas. I always add a inline filter between the settlement bowl and the carb. You tractor is doing a good job pulling the 2 bottom plow. Our Super A even with its larger transplanted engine would not pull a two bottom plow in our Ozark red clay soil. We have a large single disk breaker that mounts on a tool bar under the belly of the tractor. We havent ever used it yet. We always used a M when plowing.
@@FarmallFanatic I agree. we have that red clay. they use it to make bricks. When its wet if you walk on it you very soon have 40 pound feet. when it dry its hard as cement. There is a plow pan about 8 inched down. It was created by horse or mule drawn breaking plows. Ive seen a tractor drawn breaking plow skid along and not faze it. Ive seen cable dozers the blade just scoot on top and smoke . You have to break up that hard pan with a ripper or subsoiler. The organic material is very sparse. They cotton farmed and to keep the boll weevil in check they farmed extra clean and used arsenic. About all the grew after it was worn out is bitter weeds and PoJo. With application of great amounts of commercial fertilizer and if we got enough rain. it made a small crop. Iy guys in your area had that sorry of a crop you wouldnr even bother to harvest it. You all would likely just disk it up.
Sometimes my float gets stuck. I remove drain on bowl take a small screwdriver and gently push the giggle the float. That usually works. Easy fix and no need to remove carb.
Great information from your videos on the A. I’ve got a 47 A, having trouble with the carb. I bought it with a Zenith already on it, the tractor starts fine but is only running with choke. I’ve adjusted the idle screw with not much luck. And idea what it could be or adjusting may be needed? I bought a new carburetor, same one you put on the A, but was hoping to try and adjust it and not need to put the new one on. Any advise would be appreciated.
I find it interesting that you've had a view videos now with gas/carb/sediment bowl issues. I know from going on the various online forums some guys have issues just about every year and some don't for decades. I just wonder why?
You are probably shaking some junk out of the carb. Just rebuilt our Marvel Swewb and it needed to be wetstoned to meet nice and flat. That and cleaning helped a lot. It can warp out and cause nasty hydro-lock dumping tons of gas into the oil pan 😅. Carb must seal well internally.
@@FarmallFanatic Your show another manufacturer being blowen up. Kind of funny, kind of not. Maybe something like a farm all with a rocket in your opening.
@@noworriesmate5903 you do know that this is a Farmall channel, right? Usually you are a Farmall/IH person or you are a John Deere person. I think almost everyone, even JD people, would like the missiles destroying their tractors. Not like it is serious.
Hello Gino my experience take the carb completely apart and clean it. It's only after I have apart do I put a carb kit into it if needed . Dirt does wonders lol without a inline fuel filter which is needed. Have a great day.
Sea Foam may be a permanent fix... The carburetor has a sticky residue in it and that stuff really does clean it up. The plow sizes of those tractors are variable based on soil conditions. The A is a 1-2 plow tractor, H, 2-3, M 3-4, W-9 4-5. When the Supers came out, they were advertised to handle the bigger plow. Super Cs were a 2 plow tractor, Super H is 3 plow, Super Ms are a 4 plow and Super WD-9 is a 5 plow tractor. They all had significant horsepower increases from the previous models. You're not the only guy who pulled a 2 bottom plow with an A. Back in the day, farmers often gave the tractors as much as they were designed for and then some. My grandpa pulled 3-14s with his W-4 and did so for many years. He also powered a 28X46 threshing machine with it which is overload for the little tractor. But what's incredible, that after pushing the little tractor to its limit for many years, It's still running and still able to do whatever we need it to do at 78 years old.
@@tyfrank3427 I'd love to see those original brochures that proclaim it's a 2 bottom tractor. Most of their tractor ratings were bs. They always lie in advertising
@@FarmallFanatic No, That's not quite true... Soil type and management affects greatly as to how much implement a tractor can pull. Your soil looks like it's similar to ours, what we call grey wooded soil. It has high clay content and therefore is a tough pulling soil. However, That's not the only kind of soil. Here in Alberta, some places have a nice black loam... It's much easier to work. Some of it is sandy and that makes it easier to work yet. In that case, The A can pull 2 bottoms. My grandpa had the black loam and he pulled 3-14s with a W-4. But in this clay, One bottom is enough for the A. You need an H or W-4 minimum on the 2 bottom... And if you're working up hay ground, in this soil type, better get the M.
When you open up the A's carb if the needle valve tip is rubber it isn't original. One, check to see if the tip of the needle valve is centered on the needle. Two, make sure that the float is straight and not hitting the sides of the bowl. I would guess that it has a chiniess rebuild kit in it already.
Hey can you do a video on the front wheel weights on your Farmall C so I can see how to put some on my Farmall B and will front wheel off of a C work on a Farmall B
I'm about to start work on my 52 Super A. Similar problem. Started up after about 2 years and it ran for 10 minutes and then it just quit. I have gas to the carb so I figure it needs a good carburetor cleaning, however I wanted to take a look at the spark plugs. Guess what? Can't get to plug sockets down between the 6 point plugs and the motor block. Haven't been able to find a socket thin enough to get over the spark plug 6 point hex head. Tomorrow I plan on firing up my metal lathe and Turing down a socket to fit between the spark plug and the block. The operators Manual say an Auto- Lite 386 spark plug is to be used. No way are the installed plugs am Auto Lite 386. It will at least give me an excuse to fiddle with the lathe and pretend I am a machinist! Keep your lines tight and your leader straight.
Is the calcium added to water for loading tires due to the density/specific gravity(heavier) ?? Why not antifreeze?? It has rust inhibitors... cost too much..?? Not heavy enough on its own..??
Those OEM switches are junk. Between my father and I we broke four of them. After the last one I took one apart. Where there useta be pot metal, they have plastic and it will put apart. Works great until it comes apart in your hands. The ten dollar switch is lasting so far.
