You know, I've watched close to ten videos about this dang washer, but it wasn't until I got to this one that I learned that you got to turn the knob in the correct sequence AND RYTHYM to get into service mode! Thanks so much!
A follow up... Basket spin error code. Inspection revealed a bent top of the motor capacitor. Cap tested open. Fished out the handy service guide inside. The capacitor actually is both a capacitor and inductor wired in series in the can. Pried open the can, freed the inductor at the bottom, mated it to a generic 50 mfd run capacitor with zip ties, heat shrink tubing and solder. It may not be pretty - hell, it may not be legal! - but the beast is up and running once again.
OMG! This is beyond that they have to actually generate pages of instructions on all the different faults and errors that the machine could have. God bless the old vintage washers that just work flawlessly 95% of the time and if something did break you don’t need a book to figure it out.
I'd like to add my gratitude to you for taking the time to create this video. You certainly helped me troubleshoot a problem that otherwise would have cost my family and me much more. Especially now, when costs of everything are overwhelming us financially. Thank You
I agree with others that this is an outstanding video. I just spent 16.95 for an online Maytag manual that has Whirlpool splattered all over its pages, primarily to get a printed copy of the diagnostic procedure and codes. You covered everything I was looking for right here. After I watched your video I went to my washer and retrieved the service pamphlet. I thought your comment about not looking at the brand name but the dial configuration was genius.
Thx 4 this video! I hope my problem is jus a capacitor! It fills & drains! But won’t agitate! Hear motor come on & shut right off! These code reading info will help👌
Funny how this machine is probably less than 10 years old and has problems, yet that 1981 washer worked perfectly. Also, loved The Price Is Right losing horns addition, when you were trying to enter diagnostic mode it was like the Safe Game!
Had the same exact washer and it died after 5 years. Always hated it so I was ready to see it go. Replaced with a speed queen a little over a year ago.
My parents had a Maytag that was 20+ years old. At one point it got a new timer put in it. But mechanically it never did break. I've got. Roper model just like the one he tested. It's not finishing the drainand spin. And also for a while it's been leaving some water in the bottom but not in the basket .. like the pump is not draining all the water out. Thanks for the video... Most helpful one I've seen.
@@kens97sto171 our first washing machine was a bare bones basic model from Roper bought in '95, replaced the agitator dogs 3 times, one drain pump and 1 lid switch, the trans gave up in 2015. We bought our current Whirlpool machine and 4 years later I'm already replacing the wash plate and cam, newer stuff just aint built the same...
@@bulldawg2764 Yeah.. i agree. We had a old Maytag for 20+ years and only replace the timer once near the end.. we left it at house when we moved. So maybe it's best to just buy as cheap a washer as you can.. since they don't last. I fixed the Roper I have.. ended up being the shifter mechanism. Washer works fine now.
Thank you so much for this video. This was exactly the problem with my washer! Yours was the only video that addressed this problem. I would change the video title to be something like 'Change the Washer Capacitor', or 'How to repair washer when clothes getting tangled, agitator in one direction, banging', or something like that. This video was a lifesaver!
Best video bar none. And, this is actually my washer model. Lasted ten years before this same problem came about. I am following this exact route; and thanks for saving me loads (pun intended) of dollars.👏
Had the same issue with the same machine at a salon. The owner had a guy come out and say the motor was bad and would cost more to fix that to buy new. There is now a 2017 speed queen in its place. Im sure this video will help many .
Funny you say that. I just had a guy come into m today and say the exact same thing recommending a Speed Queen as well. I will have to check if this simple fix will fix mine.
i freaked out when i thought i had no power going to my washer. this guy taught me so much just now. fyi i did the game code 1st try. thanks for the secret owners manual tip also
So this helped me find the problem and fix my washer in about 10 min! I actually found out that my wife turned the water off when she switched the hot and cold to the correct spots on the back of the washer when we set it up in our new appt. So when I ran the test mode and water didn't go in I turned on the water finished test mode, then started a load and it worked fine. It was think goodness a silly issue but this totally saved me time and money!!! Thank you very much. Plus I got huge brown points with my wife lol
This is the best diagnostic and test cycle operation for Whirlpool units on youtube. Thank you very much. You explained everything properly. Most of the others on youtube leave out too much vital info that is shown on this video. This one gets 10 stars for excellence.
Finally someone who makes the process make sense. My Crosley will not go into agitation or spin mode. I was looking at the actuator but maybe the capacitor?
I have one of these washers, and it fills and drains, but doesn't agitate or spin. When it tries to spin, I hear brief electrical hum for maybe 1 second, and then the hum stops, basket doesn't turn at all. I took the clutch apart and it's all in perfect condition (i bought a replacement kit and the original parts all look like the replacement parts, even the teeth).
Absolutely one of the highest/best quality videos on RU-vid on how to fix / repair stuff. Great explanations, great editing, great camera (sharp and clear). Thanks so much!!
Many thanks. Was able to confirm it was a long drain error, found ear-ring and safety pin and fabric threads clogging the drain on the bottom of the tub side of the hose. 30 min, $0.
I think these videos are by far the best I've ever seen on any subject. Maybe you should have gone into the movie business! That being said, I'm a maintenance mechanic by trade and have been defeated by a Crosley washer. It errors in every way possible from not agitating, not spinning, not filling or doing nothing at all. I get no fault code or a code not related to anything,( over suds, lid lock). Both testing in automatic or manual mode check out with no problem. Only the test of the control board showed no 12VDC on the J12 connector. The board was switched out but the machine still works inconsistently. Oddly enough, the new board doesn't have 12VDC either! One last attempt will be replacing the shifter. If that fails me I still have a shotgun!
Just wanted to give a kudos here - bad shifter assembly in my VMW (a Kenmore) and used your stellar video to help me diagnose. Thanks for uploading this! Fingers crossed it’s all fixed now. And yep - washer was purchased in 2012... at least the part’s still cheap even though it didn’t last too long...
Great video! Are the motors a common problem too or is it usually just the capacitors / shifter-modules that fail? Also, do you by chance know the part number for the capacitor(?)
did exactly like you did but got it on first try.. didn't fill at first but ran all the test Cycles heard the pump kick on even though it didn't dump any water in there after it finish I left it a lid closed it hit the start button filling with water so hopefully I fixed it thank you
I only got the sense light running through all the diagnostic... which I did find strange but kept following the video did the next step and so on.. now it's working fine.. I don't know what it's problem was..
Thanks for the upload! I got the following 3 errors, should I call a tech to fix or go buy new? F7E5 = Shifter Fault F7E6 = Motor Fault F8E1 = No Fill/ Long Fill
The 1st and 3rd are very easy fixes. you simply need to clear those codes and start again. the second one is only mildly concerning, sometimes that happens when the washer is overloaded. so if you hold start then clear the codes, start again and everything works, you are fine.
I see him being able to open the lid while machine is running? How do I do that? I tried taking off the locking mechanism but the machine won't run without it. Thanks!
Great video and demonstration. I got the same codes . Buy any chance what's the part # for that compassator ? Im.sure it's in the comments I'll look. But if any has I would appreciate it ..
Quick way to get manual - since you might be working under the washer is to pull away from wall, lean washer back and rest against wall, then go to front area and reach under washer front to get manual.
I have this same washer. The lid will lock, then unlock, then lock spin a few times then start filling. Spinns but doesnt seem to agitate. Cloths come out wet but still smell, no soil reduction. No error code, any help would be greatly appreciated, otherwise ill cut my losses and get a speed queen 😂
Could you post a video on all of the test modes and what they do? I did this on my washer after watching it out of curiosity. (Nothing wrong with it, just wanted to do it for fun lol.) When I had it in test mode there were 12 different modes I could go into once I entered test mode and started turning the knob. But could you go through all of them and explain what they all are? Also, could you post a video on how the transmission works in these new style washers? I am curious, because these new style washers all sound like the motor itself is starting and stopping in wash mode.....does it actually start and stop, or is that the sound of the transmission? I would think it would be bad on the motor for it to constantly start and stop all the time like that?
There are no codes in mine, which happens to be exactly like the one in your video, but my rinse cycles seem to be taking too long now and it sounds like there’s a bad bearing as loud as it is. Any idea. Thanks for your help. I’ve learned so much from you
Great video! One question: when I try the test mode I can't raise the lid to inspect as you do (lid locked). Do you use a cheater upper lock insert to allow the lid to be kept open?
I had the same issue. I wanted to watch the agitator while in action. I watched several videos showing different ways to electrically cheat the lid switch. But I found an easier way to do it, and I did not want to permanently disable the lid switch. I removed the lid switch actuator (plunger) by removing two little torx screws and then removed the plunger, then just pushed the plunger into the lid switch slot and now the washer will work with the lid up. I did have to go to the hardware store to get a torx screw driver of the right size.
My washer does not spin on the normal cycle. If I advance it to the separate rinse/spin cycle, it spins, but not fully. The error codes are F7E1 and F7E7. Repairman came and said I should leave it unplugged overnight so it will reboot. Any other suggestions?
Thanks to you ! i have call 3 tecnicians and all of them have told me that were very busy ,thanks to your video i was able to find the problem and resolve the issue ! man thanks a lot hope to never ask for a service for this appliance all service man are incompetent !! well done
Thank you. My sensor wasn't working, and after running through the diagnostics courtesy your video, it's working again. I didn't have to open anything.
Mine retired out where you said “the lid locked light should be flashing but it’s not” mine stopped here and the lid was flashing and locked.. about 3 mins later it stopped and unlocked but the the “wash, Rinse, Spin” lights are still lit up and the lid lock flashing.
Everything was working like you except when you have all the green lights flashing and you press start/cancel for 3 seconds, my lights don’t shut off but at about 3 seconds it beeps and they stay on. What should i do? I pressed power and they went away, did it again and same thing happened. Am i safe to say it worked?
Can you tell me when you have a problem code about the drive system shifter on the pamphlet to check the voltages on page 13 step 8 to check them at J16-1 and J16-2 where do you check these? Is it on the control module? If so how can you check them since there is no way to measure here unless the connector is removed. If you have to check the shifter issue do you have to check these voltages under the bottom of the unit at the shifter connections while you operate the unit in manual test mode? Thanks for any info.
Greetings, thanks to your video I got it fixed about two months ago but as of today nothing zip nada. I tried to cancel the pump-out mode by pressing the start/pause button but doesn't do anything. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
hello my name is jerry and i followed everything you did worked like an charm however my problem persist i changed the lid switch,compasitor,and synchronous motor still throwing codes F5 E1 lid switch fault,f7 e1 basket speed sencer, f7e5 shifter fault,f7e7 motor fault and hums. know when i put the compasitor on it it did work for bought 2 min's then back to issues i have tryed everything including resetting brain/computer. could you help need to wash close. thank you
No lights will come on, even after running diagnostics. Is this the board or ? It is not power or breaker. $300 for a board and none are available. When will one be available?
Hey lorain where would be a good place to start looking for direct dove washers that are in great cosmetic shap that dont necessarily need to work that i can pick up for next to nothing or free. I have a maytag centennial direct drive that the bleach dispenser is rusting out and i would like to be able to rob body parts of a washer that dosnt work. To keep mine fron rusting away.
I have a crosley conservator and it completes one complete cycle and than I have ti unplug washer ti restart another cycle any suggestion on Where to start troubleshooting the machine
Hey everyone, I own the same washer but the sensing light continuously flashes and unable to log into diagnosis mode. Any ideas on how to get into the diagnostic mode? Or how to bypass the sensing cycle?
Very helpful video. I can usually fix anything but I hate working on appliances. We have code F5E1 Lid switch fault Fault is displayed if lid is in a locked state, but lid switch is open •User presses start with the lid open. •The main control cannot detect the lid switch opening and closing properly.
I noticed you posted the letters POS on the screen... that wouldn't stand for "piece of shit" would it?... Lol. I hate these newer washers, I should have just completely rebuilt my old one, they lasted trouble free for years. My old one was 20 years old before it gave me issues.
need some help. my whirlpool washer not agitating or spin mode this had happen before I change capacitor started working normal for about 1 month now completely stop washing and spin
