I'm not a professional painter, but my dad is, so I learned a few things from him over the years. First, after you sand, you want to remove the dust from the air. Any dust in the air will settle on your paint and possibly leave specks of color. When you paint, you want your coats to be thin enough so that they don't run, but not too thin. If the coats are too thin, the surface will feel rough and you may have adhesion problems. I think your cracking problem with the paint may have been because of putting the paint on too thick. When you spray, you want your coats to overlap. You had a lot of banding because your coats didn't overlap much, which probably caused you to use more paint than was really needed. instead of putting the door on the saw horses, it would be better to hang the door. This would prevent any drips from the spray nozzle from landing on the door and you also won't have to lean over the door to paint it, preventing things like hair, drips, etc. from falling into the paint. If your nozzle is dripping, clean it with the appropriate solvent, which may differ depending on what kind of paint you are using. Sometimes of you spray the can upside down for a bit it will clear the clog that is causing the drip. The spray can guns like you used can save you from a very sore finger if you are doing a lot of painting. Paint can take a long time to cure, especially if it is is put on thick. I once did a guitar finish with dozens of coats of lacquer and when I was done, I wrapped it in a padded cloth to protect it. Even though the finish was dry to the touch and I spent days wet sanding it to get the finish perfect, when I unwrapped it a few weeks later, there was a pattern from the cloth embedded in the finish. Ruined weeks of work and about $100 in lacquer.
Ben, I think there was more to learn showing all the mistakes made rather than a perfect execution the first time. It demonstrates real situations the DIY persons find themselves in and ways to correct it. Extremely appreciative of this video reflecting reality! Thank you Ben.
Just what I needed to see! My fridge is old but still works and just the last couple of years has started to develop very ugly rust areas,not really surprising given this is extreme humidity Tennessee.
For anyone wanting to do this themselves, here are some tips from someone who's never done this, but has done a lot with restoring old tools. 1. Definitely buy a DA sander. That is; a dual action sander. The one in this video is from Harbor Freight, but most any decent brand will work (I'd avoid nothing cheaper that the HF one, but YMMV). 2. Dust catchers are cool ideas, but I've never found one that works well without the addition of a vacuum and hose, etc. Whatever you do, DON'T trust that it catches all the dust. Expect and plan for it to catch nearly nothing, especially the really fine stuff. 3. Wear a respirator. No, those cloth masks and n95 things aren't respirators. Yes n95 masks are technically rated for certain dusty environments, but (at least in my experience) they don't work well. They don't fit my face well, and they have a TON of blowby (air passing between the mask "seal" and my face). That means there's a lot of dust and stiff bypassing the filter in the mast, and getting into my lungs. Buy a good respirator (definitely not a HF one they break really really easy) and read the manual and fit it to your face. Seriously, guys, it's worth reading rhe manual. You can tough out a sore thumb or back, DON'T try to tough out bad air. It's not worth the health issues later. Make sure it fits, check the seal according to the manual, and then do whatever you want with the sander. Then don't rip off the respirator immediately in the same nasty air you just created LOL.
Spray painting introduces a LOT of problems. The fumes, the overspray, the "dusting" of everything in your shop, the blotches/drops, the cost. I switched to a bucket or Rust-oleum 7792 gloss white applied with a high-density foam roller. No more airborne particles, heavy fumes, overspray, and it's probably 1/3 the price compared to spray. The only real drawback is that the finish is a bit of a brighter white compared to the "appliance epoxy" or the original factory finish. But I've never had a customer complain that it's too white.
Unlike one of the commenters, I have used rustoleum appliance epoxy with great success. I painted it on a refrigerator door that had some minor but pervasive rusting due to salt air. I could not remove the door and take it outside so spray painting was out of the question. I have used primer but cannot remember if I used it on the door. I have never had good luck spraying. The only issue is a quart goes a LONG way and you may have to throw the rest away eventually if don’t use it regularly. I will always brush on and not spray.
I've painted probably everything you can imagine under the sun such as vehicles and implements equipment and appliances and can offer you some advice for your future projects. First, I think your sanding was fine. If you have any rust on the surface, I would make use one of the many rust converting sprays or spray primers. It turns the rust into an inert black substance called 'magnetite'. Rustoleum makes one and so does Permatex. It's called 'Rust Reformer'. This will neutralize ant rust so it doesn't resurface or pop back up later. Some of these require a 24hr cure before primer or surfacer application. Also, I would not have used a red oxide primer. You ALWAYS want the primer closely matched in shade to the final surface coat to prevent bleed though or excess surface color coat applications for coverage. Even gray would be better than red. I think Rustoleum makes a white primer surfacer. The quality of those spray cans can be spotty. You want the can to be oriented nearly vertical while spraying and the spray tip aligned with the red dot on the top of the can to ensure the straw is fully submerged in the product. There really isn't much paint in those cans. The more surface coverage you need out of them the more difficult it will be to get consistency. For anything other than spot repairs it's really tough to get good coverage from a can. The fan just isn't wide enough and the product coverage is kind of thin. If you have any experience with a spray gun or would be willing to practice you can get a throw away gun from Harbor Freight and get some catalyzed urethane mixed from a paint shop that will be miles more durable and give better coverage. Much more like the present painted enamel finishes. I think your refrigerator came out pretty nice anyway. I sure miss the old porcelain finishes though.
@vincemajestyk9497 your comments are appreciated and it certainly appears that you know what you are talking about...thank you. One question though, in the case of surface pitting due to rust, what "filler" would you recommend to smoothen the surface before painting? I've been advised to use auto body filler or fiberglass. I've never used fiberglass so I'd probably stay away from that. Any thoughts???
@@andreb877 Hi! Thanks for the kind words. You could go a couple routes. You really absolutely want to steer clear of using body filler. That stuff is made up of polyester resin and talc. The talc absorbs moisture which causes the bubbling you usually see later on. I would use either a 2 part epoxy like JB Weld steel and sand it down. You could also use one of the 'rust encapsulator type coatings like POR15 and build it up. These are very tough humidity activated urethanes which were originally developed as bridge paints. They do need to be top coated. Alternatively you could just use fiberglass resin 'gel' coat which is similar to body filler plastic without the talc filler. For automotive work I like to use USC 'All-Metal' which is an aluminum based body filler. They use aluminum powder instead of talc as the filler. Whichever you use, I would use a Dremel to get as much rust out of the pits and then use a rust convertor.
Much appreciated. The top of my Speed Queen dryer and the Gibson washer need painting but it looks like the Speed Queen has a galvanized coating possibly. My shop fan failed and now has a motor from a dryer thanks to people like you educating people like me. Dumpster Diver to the day I wear a granite hat.
Appreciate the videos. Painting large panels like this is almost impossible with spray can to turn out good. Really need a small air compressor and a cheap hvlp gun from harborfrieght will work. You can adjust the spray pattern and volume of paint to keep a wet edge. Good luck and thanks again
I've had the same issue with Epoxy and I've seen it in other videos. You have to try to do it all in 1 coat unless you wait till it cures completely. I've switched to a quick dry 2 in 1 primer/paint. It takes about 3 passes but no spider webs
Great honest video! You are right about getting sander with a dust catcher. I remove the dust catcher and attach a shop vac. Works brilliantly in a room. The little catcher isn't enough but better than nothing. Definitely have to use the right primer/paint combo and adhere to suggested drying time. Cracking and fish eyes will ruin your day. 🍻
Like the video, great to see how to paint an appliance. It may not have been the perfect video, but making some errors and how to correct them is a treasure in its self and is something that is needed so that people will not be discouraged when doing it themselves.
Used to be able to get the appliance epoxy spray can for around $4. Now some places want $10 a can..."supply chain issues" must still be happening due to the flu...yeah right! I sprayed my fridge door and paint washers and dryers with that stuff. One can does not go very far. You will get one coating. Get the spray gun attachment. When you tip the can horizontal it may drip. If any paint dries on the tip it may drip and splatter. Lay down one thick (as you can without running) coat of that epoxy spray moving back and forth overlapping strokes. You can not respray that epoxy unless it has completely dried for like a week or more as it takes forever to dry. Another coat on an uncured painted surface will cause peeling. I also found that out the hard way. Also your air temp needs to be above 50 and low humidity helps. Use heat from like heat gun or sometimes I use a propane mr heater and get the metal hot before painting (especially if it's cold in your workshop). And calling it Epoxy is generous, it can be damaged easily...I really doubt it is epoxy, but it works. I am not a professional painter.
FYI that Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy is NOT really what they advertise, or you would think it is. I painted the inside lip of the lid of my washing machine (followed the directions to the letter) and a couple weeks later I noticed the paint starting to lift, almost like 'aircraft paint stripper' was applied when water got on it. It was when I was done washing and water got on the surface. It would settle down after the water dried. I called Rustoleum Tech Support and they said that paint WAS NOT desgned for expsure to any water. Seemed strange to me since I used it on an appliance. Also there was NOTHING on the can stating this. But it was happening everytime I washed. They said it was for mostly EXTERNAL surfaces but it reacts with water. They even went as far as to suggest that their 'regular' enamel might be 'better' but not impervious either. I used 'Appliance Epoxy' before by Servistar Hardware or some other bran that held up way better than this junk. What a waste.
So the small reddish dots on the door of my white refrigerator door are rust spots - no wonder I couldn’t wash them off. A tip about cleaning the dust off the door after sanding - vacuum the door or use a soft brush (I use an old paint brush) to clear off the door. Use paper towels splashed with rubbing alcohol to then wipe down the door. Because you removed most of the dust before wiping down the door, you cut the chances of smearing the door.
I suggest sanding by hand between coats [after painting]. You want to take off peaks off the dry paint, but leave the flats and valleys be. Also there would be much less dust flying around. That's also the reasoning behind the setting times between coats.
So you're telling us this was your channel announcement for your second channel "Ben's Appliances and Painting" Looking forward to subscribing there too.
Few little ideas. I would have cleaned the entire door first, and sanded/used brissle brush on the rust parts. You can also get some rust neutralizer or use Kilz if you don't care about it rusting through the door. A roller might have done a better job for the last coat since it would give it the stippled effect not a perfect flat like a paint can.
I find myself doing exactly the same thing, and don’t know why or where did the day go? In this case, however, I really do need to do this…one of these days but probably not today.
My brother had to do this en situ. (in the kitchen) He sanded it down, removed the rust but did not use the bare metal primer. It looked fantastic the first 2 years then the rust pits came through fast. BTW, he used NOT that epoxy, but regular Quart oil based rustoleum, satin sheen, with a foam roller. It looked like a factory finish, it laid and leveled perfectly. I do NOT trust their overpriced "Appliance Epoxy".
i think with as much rust/ damage that that door had I would have put a layer of bondo/body filler on the front of the door after you sanded all the way down to 80 grit then sand down to 120 grit after the body filler hardened and sand up from there. there were still a lot of bumps on the surface. This would probably had made the spiderwebs not as severe.
The problem is "How dry" - either you have to wait an hour, or a week, so that makes doing this pretty darn difficult given the nature of appliance epoxy paint
@@bensappliancesandjunk I was a paint R&D Chemist for 5 of the 9 years I worked as a Chemist right out of college. You are correct in your assessment of the cracking. If you do not recoat withing the time window indicated on the paint can, it can lead to the cracking problem that you experienced.
I appreciate you on appliances but not so mich on painting. A lot of it sounded like you were reading a how to blog. A lot of things you said were a little bit wrong but people can follow it. Yes you HAVE TO sand between coats on something enamel that your face is a few inches from. Considering harbor frieght air sprayers are 20 bucks use one of those if you have the compressor ec... Always use the spray can holders doing work like this.
Oh boy, power tools and alcohol !!! Yes I know you can’t drink isopropyl. I would mask off the edges. Even cheapo paper hanging straight down would save you a lot of effort and chemicals. Find your local Banksy type artist and make it a special collector’s addition, or not.
Please everyone dont even use the appliance paint its horrible and has a horrible finish. Use the PROFESSIONAL brand white gloss. The can i bigger its dries in 20mins and the finish is great
