Finally, a video that gets straight to the point, and doesn’t complicate the explanation for people who are not professional, polishers. Thank you for this video
Used it for the first time last weekend definitely worth buying if you're a person who likes detailing your own car recommend first time to use on lowest setting 800 so you don't burn paint don't leave in one spot keep moving it over paint easy to use ru-vid.comUgkxfzbDkCRyv3CFXnLZI4APZtRRuG2uRmP2 truck looks like new again used maguires black light battery life like all milwaukee products seem to hold up well 😀
Very useful tips! I am a fan of your channel. Would like to voice my support here. Unlike many American/European car detailing RU-vid channels where they try to make simple things unnecessary complicated. I am talking 15-step wash and decontamination process followed by 10 step surface preparation and product trials using 3 different DA polishers with 20 different types of pads with 10 different types of compound/polishing/finishing/sealant/wax/top-coat etc. Took them like a week to completely detail only one car hahaha... This kind of complication has taken the joy of car detailing away. Your instructions just always keep things simple and easy to follow with minimal tools, chemicals and steps. Also, I guess that you are a kind of ROTARY man because you always use rotary. I grew up and start my car detailing practice from rotary and have always been using rotary. Contrary to today's popularity of the DA, a rotary always has a place in my heart. It just gets the job done effectively and easy. More fun to use than the DA, in my opinion. Do you have any videos on polishing the very soft paint? I have the World Rally Blue (Dark Blue) Subaru BRZ. Its paint is very soft and it is very hard to perfecting the paint without the hologram. Keep on publishing good videos! Thanks. (Sorry for very long comment)
HI Nikornvit, glad you found it useful. Off camera, Henry uses dual action polisher equally frequent as well. It all depends on the job at hand and there is always a best possible combination that is utilised by different detailers. On the soft paint, you may find the video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Z2BCAaczsmk.html
Thats because they have product sponsors and they need to sell their products. In my shop I have only 2 sets od pads and performed more than 100 cars with the pad
I agree with almost everything you have shown in your video except the speed you move your machine across a panel. You still need to remove the swirls and holograms and moving quickly across a panel is not going to help you. All you will be doing is increasing your phisical effort and tiredness for no gain at all. You still need to cut the holograms out so a slow machine speed and a slow directional movement will be your winning algorithm. You still can use smaller buff pads as long as your pressure and pad speed is low. A bigger buff pad could introduce holograms again as the outside perimiter on a large buff pad will move much faster due to its larger circumference. It is a bit of a love dance between speed pressure, right pad softness and fine cutters to achieve perfection. Well done. Excellent video. I have learned a lot from watching your videos.
I like how at the end you wiped away the oils of the product and said “i want to see if i actually got rid of the holograms and didn’t just cover them”. Every video I’ve seen they leave the polish on and show a before and after as if that matters..
I've watched loads of videos on buffing, cutting, polishing and hologram removal. But watching your demonstration nailed it for me. I was going to do a ceramic top sealant but a bit concerned because my super black paintwork had many holograms. I tried your method and bingo all the swirls and ghosting disappeared. I've now done the ceramic coating and it's pretty much perfect. Thanks again.
Hey folks, Henry and the Osren team, I would like to share my experience with a certain kind of swirls here, also I want to stress the meaning of this videoclip when we talk about removing swirls and thank Henry and the Osren team for providing me with tips and hints that really proved valuable for me! Maybe this text can help some of you guys sort out a kind of complicated issue and makes it a little clearer and easy to understand. Let’s get into it: Those swirls on my black Ford were driving me crazy. Whatever combination I tried and whatever technique I used (watch Osren videos regarding arm speed, amount of product, rpm and applied pressure that influence the cutting effect), I wasn’t able to remove them. Just to be complete, I want to mention that I used only good quality products and pads and with 2+ years experience in cutting and polishing, I am not a super pro but also not a beginner. And I don’t have a DA, only a rotary and didn’t want to invest because it’s my private car and no profits involved... Those swirls were of the kind that you couldn’t see them in the shade or indoors at all. But you were able to see them very obviously in bright sunlight and it was ugly I can tell you. I fixed a lot of extra light with plenty of bright LED tubes and all that in order to see them when I work and to check the results, but no. And I want to mention that I live in Thailand, so once the sun comes out, the light it is super bright. Means those swirls are really almost undetectable but I saw them regularly and I hated them because I tried to remove them for months and I failed. When I saw the clip and talked to Henry (many thanks for taking the time to reply!), he guessed already that those swirls were very light swirls, not deep and recommended a downgrade. I (as not-professional) tended to upgrade rather downgrading because it made more sense. Generally: I want to remove something and it can’t removed with a certain way or product, it makes sense to use something stronger, right? That’s common sense in general life I would say. But not in polishing. After that, I downgraded and again tried this and that combination but still not the desired results. I couldn’t believe anything anymore. Can you guys guess how I ended up? After I already kind of accepted that it’s impossible to remove them, I tried my machine polish and applied it by hand and a microfiber towel. And after 2 passes, I couldn’t believe my eyes: GONE! After that I tried a foam pad with the same machine polish that said „finishing pad, no cutting ability“ and: GONE In the end, after the polishing of every panel, I had to drive out into the sun to check the results. But it wasn’t an issue as long as I got my results! So the message of this text is: for certain kind of swirls, start with the less aggressive combination you have available. Possibly apply the product by hand first and check the results! It won’t do any harm. And after that work your way up. A personal add: it’s so satisfying to solve a frustrating problem by your own hands and brains (of course with certain help like the Osren team here) and to gain further knowledge and capabilities. Even this task was so challenging, I leaned a lot and I am happy and grateful to go through this -at first very very frustrating- experience. Good luck and plenty of success! Frank
@@lewis30ss91 right, least abrasive polish you can find, a finishing polish combined with a good quality, soft finishing foam. For very light swirls, work your way up, means start with the least abrasive combination and increase bit by bit. In case you want to invest a little, you could think about a DA polisher, which is less aggressive and hence better for this kind of very light scratches. My experiences with polishing confirm Henry’s statements absolutely. Very low level of abrasiveness, the less aggressive the better. In certain cases, one could perhaps add more swirls by using too strong combinations of polishes/pads. I think it happened to me before, too. I don’t think that compounds can do you any good related to swirl removal. You better leave that out, just too aggressive. That’s more for heavy oxidized paint, parked in the sun for years, very old paint or similar heavy cases. Good luck.
@@lewis30ss91 I am not really sure, depends on what is available where you live. At least for me -I live in Thailand- and most European brands ain’t available here. I can stick only to 3m. Don’t save there and do some research first. I guess Osren have good products for sale, Sonax is a German brand with good reputation. But as mentioned, not available for me...
Thanks for your help!!! I have some Swirls and Holograms that were put on my New 2024 Toyota 4Runner by a Shop and now I need to buy a Polisher so I can try and correct the situation. This is a great video!!!
You are a great teacher. I just started mechanical polishing 2 days ago. Doing my boat. Your videos have helped me each time I get on the rotary. Thank you.
Great vid mate, really appreciate you taking the time out to share your knowledge. I’ve been detailing cars professionally for awhile now and your advice is spot on regarding soft paint and ensuring a perfect, hologram free finish (specially on darker cars). Keep up the good work!
I had to edit...Great video! I had a black car kicking my butt and your advice worked perfectly! Thank you. Made the job faster with better results as well.
I watch your video for the first time. and I really enjoyed the way of explaining. Such a relaxed display of work with the polisher has let me down. I'm not afraid to try
Great video! I have one Rotary polisher and one DA polisher. I was afraid of using the rotary before, but after this video I only use the rotary. I get the paint more shiny and save a lot of time.
Do a boat, gelcoat (oxidized) leave no swirls. Nice video. Usually I find "car guys" like drama in their work. Many pads, many products... You like 1 of each and have (unlike most) learned how best to use them. 👍🏻
i was about to buy an expensive da polisher until i found this, this has gained my confidence and has helped me and did a perfect work on my car thanks alot!!!
This was a very informative video! Thanks for taking the time to make these videos for us Henry! As always great and valuable information! ~Kelly from 🇨🇦
Great deal this clip. It just hits the point. Had to smile almost throughout the whole clip because I observed the exact same things before I watched this clip and was confused like crazy. The hard thing to understand is why less aggressive can remove more defects. That doesn’t make sense, at least for swirl marks. Holograms yes. Once you experience it and think about it thoroughly and you will get behind it....
Hello, I am writing to you from El Salvador, Central America. Your videos are very good to the point that I already ordered my hitachi rotary. I try to understand English with difficulty. I would like all your videos to be subtitled in Spanish, since I think you are a good teacher and it doesn't complicate things so much hugs friend
Hi Edward, thanks for watching and glad you found the informations helpful! Also thanks for the suggestion to have the videos in Spanish subs, it would definitely benefit more viewers.
I've been polishing for 30 years....nice to still see someone who knows how to use a rotary properly, it's becoming a lost art because it's harder to master.
Hey iam smiley! Yea, the rotary has quite a steep learning curve, hence half of our channel has been talking about it hopefully to encourage more people to detail and use the rotary to correct paint. However I do think a Dual Action Polisher is a good stepping stone for Detailers to pick up the rotary. Before DAs were a thing, I used to teach people straight on with a rotary, quite challenging. Nowadays, I would guide beginners with a DA and the when they transit to the rotary it becomes easier (at least, to handle and keep it flat haha) Where are you from by the way?
Hey Drayton! It’s a tricky question but if you can connect with us on Facebook and send us some pictures, we could better advice. Alternatively the general rule is to run your nails across the scratch, if it catches, is too deep. Also, what type of pads do you use with the compounds / polishes you mentioned ?
@@OSRENOfficial Hey thanks for the reply. Sorry I edited my comment lol. I will definitely connect with you on Facebook. I really want to improve my detailing skills. I am using Hex Logic 4 inch pads. Orange then white.
Great choice in using the Hitachi SP18VA rotary polisher it is lighter than the Mikita 9227C and Dewalt DW849, only the more expensive Metabo PE12-175 is lighter. Great tip on pad sizes as an aggressiveness factor !
Hi just seen your channel and WOW they are so informative for the beginner like me the more tips the better your channel is the best i have seen so far
ORSEN (MALAYSIA) SDN BHD - Really very informative and an illustration of why a rotary is NOT for beginners who have had no training and why DA's are a safer bet for weekend warriors : ) But you videos are superb for those who want to learn rotaries - really appreciate all your fine tips! Happy detailing !!
Once you figure it out. It’s so satisfying to correct and finish with the rotary. Working my way down from 1200rpm to 900rpm I can almost finish everything with the flex battery rotary.
Been buffing in a professional body shop for years with a rotary polisher, have never encountered this problem. I feel like pad choice and compound is crucial, plus somtimes you cant be scared to put alil heat on it. the clear on these new cars now days can take quite abit before ever getting close to burning through.
Osren compound yang bagus, aku pengguna compound osren 50 dan 46 , pekerjaan jadi cepat, sayang diindonesia penjualan sangat tidak lengkap ,sukses selalu osren
I use a rotary and microfiber with cutting compound to do the bulk as it's the most aggressive combo. After that I switch to a orbital polisher with foam and finishing comp. This is the fastest way for me and also leaves a spotless and haze free finish.
Great job dude. I'm amazed by your efforts and professionalism. I'm planning to try with rotary to remove some light swirls from my VW paint. Could you tell me how much microns of CC will I remove with this particular technique? Thanks a lot.
Hey Branko, it's hard to tell how many exact microns will be removed by polishing or any form of polishing. But removing holograms will rotary is a very light burnishing process and does not come close to burning away excessive clear-coat, nor it is capable of removing scratches or deep swirls. It's the heavy compounding that anyone should be more worried about as usually, these are the cuttings that will burn paint or thin clear coat. Therefore, good car care is always about preventing as many scratches and other defects as possible so one doesn't require heavy cutting every now and then.
Hahaha that ending!! Great stuff Henry! Can we apply the same techniques with a DA polisher to reduce DA hazing? Since the goal is to "reduce cutting". Thanks in advance!
Hi Kenneth. Yes the same principle applies to dual action polisher as well. In fact, I would say it is easier. However, with the usage of dual action polisher, more pressure and "negative" pressure doesn't really apply.
Now that was very educational and it will help me a lot! So what you used to remove the holograms was a polish? At low speed, low rpm, faster passes, not too much product and removing the oils to make sure the holograms are actually removed. Correct?
Yes. In essence, the goal we were trying to achieve is to reduce cutting/aggressiveness. The polish we used was the least aggressive polish we have in our range.
@@OSRENOfficial Well, I'm just getting into it honestly. A lot of questions I've had to research were e.g. microfiber vs foam, speeds, DA vs Rotary, I think for the most part a lot is already covered. It's hard to find good product comparison videos at times. I specifically was searching for foam on a rotary as most people tend to favor wool, and this video covered it wonderfully, and even taught me a thing or two (pad sizes and heat distribution/cutting power). The only reason I am even still slightly considering a rotary is how fast I see people doing correction work with them...a few passes with a wool pad and it's ready for polish. But it seems DA just finishes better. I'd like to see more videos about microfiber vs foam I suppose, and how they behave with different compounds and polishes, cutting and finishing microfiber pads. I plan to use a red foam meguiars cutting pad but I think compounding with microfiber would be just a little quicker and easier, on a DA. Thanks for the response! If I think of anything else as I go along I'll be sure to reach out!✌️
All good man! Generally cut level for microfibres are between the wool and most sort of foams. Well if budget allows, you would want to get a rotary as well as a DA. Too many types of paint works out there that really reacts differently to each combo
Thank you. Okay what else are you looking for? Like how do you know if the product broken down? How many passes or how long to you need to keep polishing.
Hey, great question. Each product may vary. For ours, we polish until it starts flashing, and the opaqueness of the polish abrasive starts to reduce. Paint can be clearly seen alongside the condition (more defects/less defects) best to read and follow the instructions on the label.
HI Dubb, usually the logical thing to do is wait for the paint to cure, or in many cases hardened enough in its top layer to be polished. The approach is similar, basically reducing cutting level accordingly using the combination mentioned in the video (techniques, pads, abrasive). However, there is a high probability that on a non-fully-cured paint, defects would reappear as heat from polishing actually softens the paint and defects would reappear once the heat has dissipated. Think of it has a non-fully cured paint would react to heat and changes its texture to somewhat soft-mellow fluid, thus masking the defects.
OSREN (MALAYSIA) SDN BHD buddy I sometime have to polish panels that have only been out the paint booth for an hour . If that cars going today it’s going today lol
Hey Jimoh, you’ll need to use higher speed settings when you require more cutting action. Applying pressure can also assist in cutting. The keyword is contact, the faster it is or the heavier the pressure, the Polish + Pad combo has created contact with the surface hence giving more cutting. Too much contact however will cause heat buildup and the clear coat may soften to a point that cutting becomes inefficient.
Hey Robear Le, thanks for watching and commenting :) Yes we do ship to the America and few weeks from now, we’ll have a store in Amazon US carrying some of our compounds
