@@Daedalus_UK yeah probably you are right. I don't remember what drill bits I was using, but I was drilling out 4 studs from the dpf filter on my focus and it took me half a day to do it
Great tip Alan! when i did mine downpipe on my Mk3 Mondeo couple years back, nuts on the catalytic converter end were so rotted that they looked like 2 layers of tin foin wrapped around the stud. luckily threads were saveable ;)
This is why High temperature paint is so great, I coat all my cars exhaust parts with it and the metal will not absorb moisture. I have been doing this for decades and have none of these problems!
Hey I just tried your method, want to say THANK YOU! Broken stud on the manifold to the exhaust pipe, (1999 Jeep TJ 2.5) just enough room for the angle grinder, then finished the cut with a hack saw blade (hand held). Punched it out, new nut and bolt, only took maybe 45 minutes. Thanks again!
Just had an exhaust flange stud snap on me. Had very limited access but a reciprocating saw worked a charm. Cut and a few light taps and it was out. Thank you so much.
That's what I did with a Vauxhall corsa exhaust I changed the other week, heating up the surrounding area around the stud until blood red and used my spring punch on the two studs. They flew out
OMG! I wish you had posted this video 2 weeks ago! I had the same issue trying to remove the dpf from my 2010 2.0 tdci S-Max. I opted to cut the studs flush with the flange and then drill them out… It worked, but it took me the best part of 4 hours to do 2 flanges. 🤦♂️
I fear I am taking on a similar problem - I spent 2 hours drilling and have only cut about 2mm so far - busted several smaller drill bits in the process too 🤦♂
@@Country_Nasty 😄 yeah I went for a cobalt single of the correct size in the end - it was like a hot knife through butter - have had similar experiences with masonry drills too 😬
🧐 Each to their own. Cut and drill, brake flaring tools could have been used, splitting fork behind the bolt head, heat treatment, use some imagination. Smacking an unsupported pipe with a hammer will surely lead to more damage. Could have at least put something behind the flange to counter the impact. Sorta like "every action has an equal an opposite reaction"
Spilned studs on an exhaust assembly flange. What moron tbought that was a good idea. You had a great solution to the problem which took the issue back to what shohld have been their "day one" nut and bolt
I'll be damned... I have been trying to get mine out on my 98 K2500 4x4 for two solid days. Then I decided to go to RU-vid University. and there you were Alan. As soon as you said cut a relief cut in the flange, I knew that that was the trick. Going outside right now and going to get them both out. Will update in a few.
Ive always drilled them out but a quick way of getting them always good to learn new tricks and have other options only thing I think would be abit more difficult is trying to grind stub at top getting grinder in but still a very good idea
Thank you. this method over anything you can get cutting tools in and around the exhaust very easily, but trying to drill it out like some people say “would be better” but like your saying in the video if your gonna do that you need to remove the hole exhaust bit to make that work effectively and/or pray your drill actually fits in that specific area !
Nice job Alan , I usually cut off the thread , and drill through the stud a couple of times and bolt it back together, at least no damage to catalytic converter either way 👍
Exactly Mike. By cutting a notch (slicing the wing) will lead to other issues. I'd cut & drill and replace the stud with a bolt and an Aerotight nut. Might as well do same on the other stud.
Excellent work! About to go give it a try right now. Both of my studs are gone and require this same surgery. I tried drilling the stud remnant out, but I think the stud is only slightly softer than my drill bit.
Not in our wildest dreams would we be able to retread a stud that had deteriorated to a smaller size and expect it to hold up under the stress of torque and heat and last for any length of time . Replacement was the only option . Although splined studs are not always easy to remove , even when heat is applied , it’s still easier than a threaded stud for removal . I’ve had success on thinner flanges with heat , and I don’t even own acetylene torches but used MAP gas . After heating until it smokes heavily , a socket on the stud end a C press on the other end to produce tension , followed by some concentrated tapping to shock the stud loose . Such as removing a ball joint , readjust tension when tapping and introducing shock to loosen the stud until the splines back out . Before beginning the removal process however , I will try cleaning away as much rust as possible and apply a penetrating oil in hopes that it will lubricate the splines and free up the rust bond as best as possible . You will always want to clean away as much rust from the head of the stud and threads where they go through the hole in the flange so there is the minimal of rust bond for a successful extraction of the stud . Yes , cutting the flange to relieve tension and aid extraction works but I really do try to avoid cutting unless I’ve no choice . That is a healthy sized flange and should be quite strong but heat from the catalytic converter will eventually cause it to bend . Respecting that this is a quick fix when time is of the essence and the exhaust has only a limited time left in this world before your MOT Lads condemn it to the junk pile , it’s what gets the job done . I speak from personal ownership as though it’s got to last twenty years or so since I personally keep a vehicle an eternity as it is anyway . While everyone has their methods , I will say that cutting and relieving will absolutely get the old stud out . Re-welding is not likely to last if that is a cast steel flange . The heat cycles from the exhaust will eventually weaken it . A body can try heat as you’ve suggested and pressing it out but time is always the deciding factor . You’ve got to keep them rolling and quickly , granted . Just hope the MOT lads haven’t a difference with this plan of attack . I should think not or you wouldn’t take this route . Well , to each his own but I will say , yes , this will definitely work . This thick flange will go a while in service with this repair for at least long enough before mileage has this vehicle either parted out or on its way to the furnace . The taxis rack up mileage so it’s a question of whether mileage dictates removal from service or wear and tear does first . Anyway , under the circumstances , this is a quick and acceptable repair for the needs . If all else fails , miss Monica’s input is always welcome ❤️
@@trboj Yes , I’ve found that a C press used for ball joints and universal joints to be useful on larger bolts . Smaller bolts , I’d use a press clamp similar to a C press in action . Yes , it’s the method of pressing out a splined fastener that we must use . Shocking the faster out whether on the flange surface or the fastener itself with a hammer or air hammer and increasing pressure of the press will eventually get it done .
Top tip Alan. Got to laugh at the people getting all sensitive about the slit left in the exhaust. It can easily be welded! As for drilling the stud well they'd be there a long time. Those studs get bloody hard with all the heat cycles!
So, cut a groove/slit, bash the sucker out, can't use a new stud, still need a bolt... oh, yeah, and waste time welding?! Just drill the sucker and use a bolt. What a waste of time! Might have tried a 2-prong puller as a pusher (if it was small enuff to fit in there).
Please put the guard back on your angle grinder. I have had slitting and grinding discs let go on me before and been so thankful that I had the guard on to eject the disc debris away from me. Proper eye protection is a must. If you had an accident, you would be putting your employer in a horrible position with liability without the proper guards and basic PPE in place...
@@nomaschalupas2453 I've seen a disk coming apart and being embedded in a mate's face. Gruesome and nearly cost him an eye. JUst because it has not happened yet does not mean it will not.
Three of four wasn't too bad to change. The Fourth one i put the 7/16-14 on and tried to clean up the threads because it was stuck. But the threads weren't cleaning up either. So.. it's had various capillary action sprays on it awhile..a couple weeks. The other day a mechanic friend suggested transmission fluid for something else. And I remembered brake fluid and transmission fluid mixed.. and I poured some on and hour ago and it's going to be out in a few minutes. It's loose now. I just have to finish up. But it's a big deal to have air leaks before the oxygen sensor so I wanted to start with good bolts and be able to snug it down good.
Here, in the US of A, we use "PB Blaster" to soak the rust before we try these kind of tasks. It is a rust penetrant, works wonders, seeps through seemingly impossibly narrow spaces (microscopic), makes a path for itself by dissolving rust and seeping further.
"Commercial products" cannot be possibly "worse" because those people are not dumb, as follows: if you know about ATF / Acetone mix, this follows that they (them) have known it for centuries. Conspiracy Theory Scientists are the best, they tell us that allmighty "they ("them") have been hiding the best facts from humanity for millions of years. Alien Tech?
BMW Z4 2.5 exhaust studs corrode away and are awful to get out. I cut a slot like you did but space is tight to cut the upper one. Air hammer on them and managed to get them out. Killed an exhaust sensor from all the hammering so had to replace that as well. Stainless bolts fitted to the exhaust flange so they won't rot away again. Getting the broken exhaust sensor out was another pain sensor sockets just spun on the sensor flats ended up chiselling off the top of the sensor to get a reverse twist extractor socket on what was left and a short breaker bar to get it out. Chased the thread out then fitted the replacement.
I had the exact same thing happen and bent the flange. I'm going to do what you suggest and attempt to bend the flange back. Another way is to cut the stud off and drill a hole thru it and use a mini hack saw to cut a slot in the wall thickness left from drilling the hole. This will spare the slot in the flange.
Allen A good way of getting out of trouble but wont it make the flange week and slacken if the bolt I thought you would fill in the flange where you cut with weld a interesting way though Phil in stoke
Good idea, though I thought you were going to knock a slot big enough to hammer the stud out downward...hint, another way to accomplish this feat. Also, as far as you only went with the one cut groove, would be to put a hardened pry bar in their to pry it and relieve some of the tension of the rust on the stud and then bashing it out with less concern of bending the flange. Barring the size of the bar, you could apply pressure to the slot and give it a bash with the 3 lb maul.
If i cut a thin slot in a flange, i also cut nearly all the way through the bolt too. That way the bolt is in half and comes out with a small hammer hit.
Evening Alan got engine malfunction came up its the P244c code having a Ford part fitted next week £515 fitted thought it was a sensor but think it might be the vaporizer. fault said exhaust temp too low for part filter regen bank 1 is that the part with pipes and nozzle in ya video? Aftermarket parts don't work as you said Regards Mark Black Mk4, you did my tracking
I've noticed a smaller hammer sometimes works better to break the rust. Get that ting sound rather than a blunt thud. You can see fine particles of rust fly.
One of those little electric induction heaters might do the trick by applying heat locally to the stud, but cutting a slot makes complete sense anyway.
I have one and love it, but to get enough heat into a flange like that you'll be there all day. You can't operate them for more than 1 minute at a time of they shut down and take 5 minutes to reset. So 30 seconds on, 15 seconds off, until you get enough into it .... They're really good for nuts, but anything bigger you really need a torch.
An old clip, but anyway: It's a standard pressed in stud. The best way to remove them is to press them back out. If you can't bring it to a work bench an improvised tool can be made from nuts, bolts and some scrap steel. But OK, that's a bit fiddly. In this case propane torch heating and tapping it with some heavy object backing the flange up is suggested. Banging on things without backing is not very effective and can easily cause damage.
Thank you for this! I really enjoy watching your videos, they are full of knowledge. Would the shocks caused by the hammer not damage the catalytic converter?
ever tried placing a over sized socket on the head of the bolt and cutting the stud flush and then using a C clamp to compress it out? I have seen it work in certain applications.
I had the same situation on my 2004 CL7 Accord, I drilled them out and hammered the splines out with a punch, it was a nasty job, 3 studs, not 2. Down + flex pipe unit.
One point I'd make would be well even if you have a map gas torch or even propane and not a real acetylene torch, still heat it up with anything, put a big socket BEHIND the head of the stud and whack it with a hammer. A little heat goes a LONG way!! Great work though, I'm about to try this on my friend's Ford F250 where the Y pipe meets the catalytic converter, that flange there.. fun thing is there is a THIRD bolt up on TOP that you can't get to without disassembling the whole exhaust. So fun!!
i. Alan . I have a problem with filling my 2010 Mondeo with petrol ,the breather pipe must be blocked because the petrol keeps blowing back and takes ages to fill, have you any vlogs which incorperate any part of work on this item, i think it might be a carbon filter replacement, Help please . Mike.
I had same thing on my DPF in galaxy mk3 2.2 2012 and i did try to knock it out without any luck so cut it short and drilled trough. But my DPF was out anyway luckly and the cat bolts were ok to put new nuts on
The heat from the exhaust will constantly heat treat the bolts, studs and nuts, and attract moisture that will cause them to rust and corrode and chemically weld the parts together. There should be a rule that requires the manufacturer to use something like anti-seize/never-seize that will prevent the pieces from welding together and rusting and corroding.
I would have used some penetrating oil on it. Once you got that little crack in the front, I would sprayed some in there. It may have made it easier to get out. It stilled worked out in the end. This my job coming up once the part arrives.I would never have thought about cutting the slot. I may need this trick this weekend if mine break. They do look in better condition than yours, so fingers crossed.
Actually you can get a bolt puller unusual looking tool but instead of using penetrating oil you heat up the area of the stud or bolt use paraffin wax as a it doesn't burn off like paraffin wax. Of course this is pressed in stud usually has one comment said you cut the stud off drill it partly out you say drift to knock it out.
There's a video, also on RU-vid, where the guy uses a torch on the flange ear until cherry red, then a couple quick pops on the end of the seized stud with an air hammer. Pops right out. Worth a try.
Couple of thoughts Good to see eye protection, but really angle grinder in close quarters should use ear protection as well. Use good penetrating rust solvent and leave in place for several hours. Makes a big difference.
Your braver than me ... with that 360 cutting grinder with shades on ... I do love a guard me would never use a tool without one Probably the best and easy solution to rectify the problem at hand Yeah the comments are funny, but if we had all day to make things perfect the average customer wouldn't pay the rate ... some don't even care just want it repaired cheaply and NOW !
I'd have used an angle grinder to remove the head and projecting stud and drilled it, but this way looks easier. Only issue is that the exposed threads within the flange cut are a rust accelerator, and the location is already known to be a rapid rusting problem. To stop that, maybe apply antiseize on the "entrapped" thread then use JBWeld to stuff the slot with the new bolt in place?
Suggestion: After cutting the flange, insert a chisel in the groove and give the chisel a sharp tap or two to slightly expand the groove. NOW the bolt should tap right out.
😂if you have a oxy acal torch heat cherry red quench with ice cold water put wrench on turn it out shock. Loosen up every time old welders trick works every time
Isn't there a risk of destroying the cat ceramic by pounding on it? Or is it durable enough for that? I handled my new cat with silk gloves during install... :'D
Another method would be a reputable 3" G-clamp with m8 nuts to act as a spacer with an additional nut on what remains of the stud thread and merely wind the clamp in to push the stud out.
