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I don't think you realize what he is talking about. mine is broken off where the exhaust connects with the manifold and yeah taking all that off is another problem in itself.
It is absolutely awful if they are broken on the manifold and the car is turbo charged. No room to work, turbo has to come off, exhaust manifold has to come off and hopefully no studs will break or the aluminum heads get damaged. Then you have manifold gasket to replace, hardware, blah, blah, blah. Horrible Can it be done? sure, with time and money anything can be done. well, almost anything.
I am glad someone posted this! Bravo I have been doing this for decades and my father has been doing this for 50 years. We use it on marine manifolds etc...in Alaska but also works awesome for old threaded galvanized water pipe (use a respirator). Heat the female part. As it cools you can spray a penetrating oil. The trick is to be patient. If you can get it to move even a millimeter just gently work the stud back and fourth, repeat and be gentle, especially if on the car. Yesterday I used this trick on a VW jetta to get the down pipe removed from the manifold. The rust was so bad that I used three different sockets. 12mm (OEM) 1/2 "(rusted bigger) and 11mm (rusted smaller) Always use 6 point sockets or end wrenches! Use copper plated pinch nuts and copper never seize when you put it back. The copper often burns off but the graphite stays behind for the next time around.
A few things: When heating the part(s), it's important to heat just the portion of the manifold you are trying to remove the stud from, and not the stud itself, which will also expand. By the way, the wax trick is great for removing rusty lug nuts, too. I noticed the tech beat the stud back into the manifold to break up any corrosion, which may have damaged the existing threads. It would be better to smack the manifold itself in a couple of places before twisting to limit the amount of damage to the internal threads. It would be prudent to run a (restoring) tap and light oil through the threads to ensure they are clean/undamaged.
there's quite a few pretty trick methods as most have mentioned here. but the one thing it seems no one mentioned, is too always remove th O2 sensors(unless your replacing them also) as the impact from hammers etc, seem to damage/crack heater elements etc, inside the O2
two thumbs up!! thanks for the vid! really helped me take out a snapped/ seized/ rusted bolt on my rear trailing arm on my car! Good technique!! Thanks again!
I think hammering on the stud while hot mashes the stud into the hole making it tighter. Hammering is not needed if you have a torch. Another trick I use is to dremel an 1/16 slot in the stud and using a flat screwdriver tip on a drill. Then heat the flange and once the drill starts it spinning it will keep on going. If the thread protrudes out the other side it is best to cut it off flush first on the other side so the rusty threads don't start dragging when they hit the flange threads.
Thanks for your advice, i will definitely try this, i have been looking for a solution to this problem for about two weeks now. So this is definitely worth a shot.
heat the bolt not the manifold, once the bolt is cherry red lay a wet rag over if to cool it, after it cools you can damn neat take it out with your finders, works eveytime for me with no struggle..doing it your way there's a good chance your gonna fuck up the threads on the manifolds
I'll try thus again I'm having an issue with some snapped header bolts on my bike doing me nut in my torch isn't the best as its only butane so not as hot .....I guess keeping on the heat for longer shouod do it ?.,I got 2 out fully 3 snapped 3 to go lol
cool it. pu the vice grips back on and carefully wiggle back and forth...even if it doesn't move right away keep wiggling..sooner or later it will either come loose or break the weld..repeat as many times as necessary...works great on broken taps, easy outs and drill too..I like broken bolts...they have earned me a lot of easy money
When I can I'd weld nut onto the stud. Then heat it till it's red hot then quickly pour or spray cold water onto the piece till it's cool. The stud almost falls right out. I guess the thermal shock breaks the rust loose! Works 100%
I cut and ground both ends of the studs. Prop the flange flat and torch the center of most of the studs out. Then clean out the holes enough for bolts to fit.
Snap On, KD Tools and other brands have the awsome stud removal tools for situations like this. I have the KD set and its great. Totally worth buying just to have in the box.
Great video fellas, thanks for taking the time to make it. I have used a torch lots of times, but this is the first time I have heard about using wax. It really looks like it helps.
If you use water it allows the rust to act as a lapping compound instead of seizing the thread with lubricant. Apply alot of water while moving the fastener left and right in small amounts and the rust water will flush the micro rust particles out of the thread. Use anti seize upon reassembly.
The only way to do it while its mounted on the vehicle is to have access to a mig welder and weld an oversize nut onto the manifold stud and hope that it backs out with a six point socket with an extension connected to a 1/2 ratchet.. If it doesn't there's no way to do this job on the vehicle.
Just worked on one that had enough length to put my small RIDGID offset pipe wrench on it not a cheap off brand. Tried vise grips but they were siding, heated it up and WD40 still did not do it until I used the pipe wrench and very little force it came right out. Hope this will help others wondering after trying every thing they can thing of and still fail, been there may times. I prefer the offset because the more you push the more it locks down. The wax may help but have not tried it and I did not have my oxy acetylene handy and was using just a propane so I could not heat it enough. Good luck because retaping cast iron can be a bitch.
hot wrench works great. Careful doing this while its still in the truck - really hot metal flakes falling in your face from the bolt while removing it with sharp-toothed pliers. Better to weld a nut one size too big on the stud close to the manifold and use a deep socket to get to it. The welding itself helps brake it loose (lots of heat) Wax really did seem to help that last time cause the temp dropped some so it didn't just vaporize - find a wax with higher vapor point
I weld a nut on, (using stainless rod, no other works as well) then use an impacted, run it out a little, then run it in, repeat until it comes out, your lucky you have some stud still sticking out, that never happens very often, when they brake there normally broke flush or inside a bit....... we take big rig wheel lugs out the same way, been doing it like that for over 27 years
@eastyg the torches with the gas tank what bbq's use don't put out enough heat. As a backyard mechanic I'd cut both ends with a hacksaw and drill whatever is left to make a new hole.
Don't think the wax does anything its too hot initially..vise grips work great...stud remover with ratchet works best ..its the heat that does it.. keep it hot
I've never had a problem removing a frozen stud with just a torch and vice grips. I would heat the flange around the bolt until it was glowing red and then I would clamp the vice grips on as tight as I possibly could squeeze them. Then I would twist it right out; almost like butter. The trick is to get it hot enough around the fastener.
interesting idea, the wax that is. I usually spray deep creek on it when its hot, the heat sucks that stuff in really good. when I have to remove broken studs on a manifold I usually have to do it from underneath while its still attached to the engine.
I've been doing this many years usually quite successful but recently my Ford kicked my ass and I heated and played with it for hours and never got either one to any more that move back and forth 1/4 turn. So I had to do it the polack way as I needed to get it back together and ground a slot into each end so I could use carriage bolts. Really rustic.
Good technique. If this fails cut off the studs and grind them flush with the surface. Take a scribe and run it around the top thread. Hit it with penetrating oil and then weld a nut on. This technique worked for me when all else failed.
Since you have an Oxy-Acet torch, another trick is to forget the pliers and place an slightly oversize nut onto the stud.. Heat it cherry red, and use a fluxed brazing rod to braze the nut onto the stud.. let it cool, then heat just the manifold next go around and turn the stud out with a box wrench.
@rangaman86 Its not about over charging people, some mechanics do that but for the most part its not easy or fun to do. so if you dont wanna do it then pay someone who will...Thats all there is to it.
Just heat the cast iron around the stud until it glows a bright red and the stud will unscrew like it has never seize on the threads no wax or penetrating oil required. Wait till it glows bright before you put the Vise grips on the stud. Trust me, it does not matter how rusty the stud is. The trick is to get the iron/steel bright red.
If you cool down just the bolt, it will contract, and the outer flange will stay hot and expanded. Touch the bolt with say an ice cube or a wet rag, and it will get doused in some cooling water specifically on the bolt
If you don't have a welder could you use two of the same nut using one as a jam nut and then use a wrench instead of the pliers? I've got some exhaust flange screws on a little Kubota diesel that are allen drive so i'm looking for unique ways to get them un stuck. going to try the propane torch tomorrow to heat the flange and see i can make it happen, i'll try the wax too.
Okay i had two break off and they are the ones that have a bolt from muffler connection to the pipe connection(bolt head is like a smooth button) to the cat converter... i had to take a grinder to it... i only have propane to heat it up with...i think i took some hardness out of the bolt,but still a bear to drill through so i can just replace with normal nut and bolts... I am thinking maybe map torch may be hot enough to soften old bolts so i can drill them out.... any suggestions are appreciated...thanks...
Go read your sensor specc again, a standard O2 sensor has a operational temp of around 500f and max tolerance of around 1500f. The torch used is a oxy-acetylene torch they produce temps in excess of 5500f, even with a low mixture ratio orange flame your still exceeding well past the max tolerance. If it was a standard unassisted propane torch the sensor would be fine, however that is not the case.
I didn't have a lift and the 2 bolt manifold with donut ring had 1 stud broken off. I did it the hillbilly way, 1 bolt and clamped an old vise-grip on the broken side, it worked, must sacrifice quality vise grip, not cheap set. Unprofessional but it was mine.
I've ran into this issue before and ran across this video, I have the issue again with another motor and was looking for a solution once again, I think my bigger issue is retaining information more then broken studs, 🤪
An easier way instead of tapping on the stud and tapping on the stud with a hammer is weld a nut on it first.You can use a socket or wrench to turn it easily.This does work.
the heat is far enough away that it wont damage it... also do you kno how much tempature you get revving an engine 5000 rpm for a couple seconds in a exhaust manifold?? doing burnouts in my old 351 f250 i would make the manifold glow
In this case the best way to get the bolt out is to keep the area around the bolt orange hot as you turn out the bolt. If you keep it hot it will come out easy. Be careful not to let a clumsy friend burn the skin off of your fingers with the torch.
I`ve got a pair from MAC there called Parrot beak channellocks they don`t slip at all don`t need to squeese either better than those I gave back my pair like those .
Okay I have a question on my muffler that comes down to my manifold got the muffler hooks into the three bolts what is them called and can I replace them I accidentally hit him with a hammer and now I can't get my nuts on there so can I replace them and if I hit them with a hammer will they pop out where I can put three new bolts in them
I just tried it this morning with a little blue propane torch and candle wax. I could not get the bolt to move. You must need to use a rose bud torch...
Beeswax works really well. I used a torch with Mapp-pro gas on my latest project, but I didn't heat the part until it turned red - seemed to work best at a medium temp.
