I would like to leave a comment to say thank you for putting this video up. This video helped me replace my water pump on my VW Tiguan.If it was not for this video, I would have to go to a shop and get it fixed. This was, instead of spending a lot of money, I was able to get a new pump and fittings for $60, and get the job down. Thank you so much!
Great video. Lovely details. I replaced my water pump without removing the intake manifold. Reading about the need to replace injector seals made me unsettled (mind you this was a big job for a DIYer like me, especially doing it for the first time!!) and so I opted to do it without removing the manifold. I was successful though. Never had a leak since.
@@shaneelkumar6380 Be careful of the electrical connectors under the intake, especially one going into the temp. sensor. Easy to yank it out and break it if not disconnected. Otherwise it's not really a difficult DIY.
@@shaneelkumar6380 since everything around the intake is plastic, so its better to remove it, to avoid breaking stuff... so I recommend removing the intake, its pretty easy... Good Luck
I'm heading in that direction pretty soon.... how long did it take for you to complete the work? If there is a way to eliminate a step I am all for it.
Thank you so very much for the video!! Kid's Tiguan water pump dumped a ton of water while she was on her day off. Thank goodness for your video!! You saved me time and MONEY!! God bless!!
This video is fantastic. I'm by far a mechanic. I do all my work after watching RU-vid videos. Thank you very much. I have a leak at the water pump on my 2011 Volkswagen CC.
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair I'm at the point where I need to replace the water pump belt. It doesn't seem like I can get a ratchet or socket on there. Is the only way to remove that socket is by using a wrench?
Great vid. I am a tech as well. Just did this job on a 11 GTI which is the same process. The car was a 2011 with a 2015 date code on the water pump so its on its 3rd pump in 90k miles. This is a super common failure on the 2.0T motor.
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair the customer was replacing the front bumper as well so I took off the whole front off the car which gave easy access. The gti front end comes off just as fast, if not faster as the the intake.
Thank you showing me everything involved that tells me I'm not going to do it myself. I'll get someone like you to do it. Ball joints? Yep, can do. Radiator? Yep, can do. 900 things to disconnect before replacing the intended part? Nah. I'd return 899 to they're rightful place. 😂
Its en excelent video, great help, i am an oldschool mecanic and i havent update about the new tecnology of the latest vw models , so it Was very helpful for me, at the begining i am very lost until i watch the video, i apreciate your video really, i am joel herrera from chihuahua méxico
Great video instruction! Thank you for sharing. It's a shame VW made Tiguan virtually impossible to service by most DIYers. I owned a 1991 Jetta GL, everything is so accessible. Why should Tiguan have the water pump hidden behind the intake manifold? Replacing a thermal stat even becomes an impossible job.
Nice video .....I am digging into this area to replace the #1 knock sensor which is buried behind the water pump .......In the future whenever I have to replace a water pump on one of these I will replace the #1 knock sensor at that time also ..........
Too good brother its a big job im getting my Tiguan booked for general and one of the major is the water pump and timing belt plus theres more..good times haha.
excellent tutorial one of the best on this subject project work oriented video not like the rest just video oriented clip , thank you for sharing the knowledge sir I just can't find the parts where you removed the 13 mm nut under the manifold
If you don't have a coolant pressure tester, you can just run the engine with the coolant system closed up. Radiator cap on. It will try to build pressure but it will blow out wherever the hole is. You'll see it if it's an external leak, especially right after you shut an engine off, because the coolant sits in the hot engine and boils, causing extra pressure
Not the best of ideas, remember this, that water pump run of a small belt which can be broken or seized, you might end up overheating the engine while waiting to see a leak)coolant drops). Pressure testing is the best and safest way
Green Volkswagen coolant???? That must be the new G15 type from the future. I understand it'll all be drained out soon anyways though. The recommended VW G12/G13 coolant is pink/magenta.
Hey you forgot to put the piece of pipe back in that you laid up on top of the motor that goes from the cooler to the thermostat on the left side of the housing. Good video though sir and I wont tell about having to take back apart to install that little piece lol 😁🤫🤫
Just a comment on the lower pully gear bolt (reverse thread), next to the bell housing. The bolt is by design soft metal and I broke mine installing, added a day to get the broken piece out, so would go easy on tightening this. VW recommends replacing the bolt, costs only $2.
Anyway, job done, works great, wouldn't have been possible without your great video. The metal housing (with the inlets and temp sens.) I installed should never crack again. Maybe the pump impeller part can be separately replaced from the side in case the shaft seal leaks after a few years, hope without removing the intake manifold!
thanks for video In my case we are going to replace the chain set the pump is still fine. Is it wise to replace the entire pump with housing or just the pump itself? And is a INA pump (130$) a good choice or need to pay 50$ more for a Hepu ?
Thank you for the video. I was able to sneak out the water pump without taking off the intake but I see where my hangup was and it was the O-ring to the oil cooler. Wiggle & jiggle baby 🍻🤙Cheers and Thanks I just sub’d 👍
Hey man this is the first video I've watched from you. You got a subscription in the first five minutes. I have to do this job on Monday for a client. What should I quote for hours?
Andrew Erickson it's a 5 hours job and most shops charge around 120$/hour... so its up to you to see how much you can charge your customer for the job... Good luck
Nicely presented. Only a correction is needed at 28:30: the VW service manual states that the torque for the plastic pump housing bolts to the engine block is 9Nm which converts to about 7ft-lbs. Personally, I think that is low and causes me concern that it would vibrate loose. So I add some Loctite 243 blue threadlocker to the bolts.
@@johnlucas8978I haven't tried the all metal pumps yet, I will look into it next time I do the same job, they probably last longer, have you used on of those?
Great video, thank you.... I am heading ion that direction pretty soon, (water pump swap that is) How long should it take to complete the work? (if everything goes right...)
Hi everyone I just want to know why is my thermostat motor burning for the second time on replacing thermostat housing water pump is there maybe a electrical fault any help? And what might the voltage be
Thanks for this video. My vw tiguan 2013 heater stopped blowing hot air and after a diagnostic my mechanic said it's the thermostat that has issue any advice ? Thanks.
rako bako if your thermostat is defective you should replace it and this video should help you do it, the thermostat is right there on the back of the water pump... Good luck!!! the heater will start working again after you replace it
Will this work on a 2013 volkswagen CC? Auto shop is also suggesting to replace the crankshaft sensor and I believe the thermostat. Will that be necessary to replace as well? They mentioned it is all in the same place along with the belt and gaskets as you showed in the video. Great video by the way!
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair Do you have a video replacing the crank sensor? I'm assuming this same set up works on a 2013 volkswagen CC as well correct?
Hi ... Congratulations. I am Brazilian and here we only receive these models of VW Tiguan TSI without DGS. But I'm doing the transmission swap for DQ500 DSG, could you clear some doubts since in your country the DQ 500 DSG is from the factory?
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair My doubt is which electronic injection center the VW Tiguan uses when it comes with the transmition DQ500? Because mine comes with the Bosch Med 17.5. the mechanical part to do the swap I know I can but I don't know if the electronic part is possible. Thank you very much in Brazil we have very little information about this electronic part.
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair In this case, the swap would be an automatic Aisin 09M exchange for the DSG DQ500. I think it's possible because in your country the VW Tiguan 2.0t TSI is equipped with a factory DQ 500 gearbox.
Hi, nice video. I got one question left. How do you change the Belt for the pump? is there a special tool needed to unscrew the drive gear? Thanks, Silas
I can’t find a part number for the water pump belt the guys at the parts store aren’t helping either. Do you know it’s proper terminology or a part number for the belt?
I have not had my car diagnosed yet but I noticed my floorboard is very wet on the passenger side. Is this an indication my thermostat or a water pump ?
@Tay Scott it sounds like the evaporator housing drain is plugged, does this occur every time you turn on the AC? or the heater core behind the dash is leaking!!
I'm getting the water pump replaced on my 2010 Tiguan. Should the timing chain or tensioners be replaced at the same time? The mileage is at 161,000 km or 100,040 miles. Thanks in advance.
kdang80 you don't have to replace your timing chain right now, replace it around the 150,000 miles range, these timing chains hold up pretty well, unless it's starting to make noise... Good luck!
herman_li the owner had been putting green coolant in it, and after we told him he didn't want to pay for the right coolant, I should have mentioned it in the video!
Hello I have one question, now I have one problem with my Tiguan 2011 the fan engine is not activating ¿with that sensor what you put with the water pump new ( coolant temperature sensor ) ¿that sensor send information to the computer to activate de fans engine? ¿ Is correct ? Do you can explain whats is the function of that sensor exactly, thank you nice day ✌🏻
Emilio Garcia yes That sensor reports the actual engine temperature to the ECM, a faulty sensor can cause the fan to be on all the time or not even come on, check power and ground and signal at the fan or fan module... with your scan tool check the ECT sensor data PID, and make sure it matches the engine temperature
I did the tests according to your advice, the sensor is the problem is bad, I changed it for a new one, the fans are already turning on, according to the temperature now is working .. thank you very much for you time to give me your advice 👍👍👍
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair have you seen snapped belts? Mine all of a sudden is over heating with plenty of coolant. Seems like it's not circulating. Figure it's either that or the rads plugged up quickly..
Im a new tech looking this up because I had some trouble at work yesterday. On all data it tells me to do it from under vehicle so that’s what I am doing. Do you recommend me taking the intake off?
Eduardo Cordova you can do it without removing the intake but since you're a new tech I would recommend removing the intake, that way you will familiarize yourself with this set up, which will save you a lot of time in the future... Good luck...
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair I saw your comment on Monday I just forgot to respond. I took the manifold off and it was a breeze from there. Thanks for the respond as well, first Ever to respond to me. A subscription from me. 👍🏼
Mark Byrge, the color of the coolant is just a dye... The dealer recommends the orange coolant but as long as the coolant you're using meets the specs the color doesn't really matter...
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair don't add green to other colors since glycerol will cause solids to precipitate out and block heater core. But green only OK if other coolant has been flushed out. But am not sure if the rubber and plastics used in the VW system hold up over time to the glycerol in the green coolant.
@@johnlucas8978 yes you're right to say not to mix coolants, which I don't do and I don't recommend anyone to do that, the system has to be drained before adding green coolant... it holds up pretty well, I've never had premature failure of seals with the green coolant...
Did you need to replace the fuel injector seals, or were they OK after your job? Finished water pump installation with a more economical all-metal pump, and water system pressure held fine at 15 psi. But I hope the fuel inflectors don't leak. Will know after finishing electrical connections tomorrow.
John Lucas, the service info recommends replacing the injector seals but sometimes the old seals work just fine especially if they look good, mine looked fine so I didn't replace them... you'll probably be fine even if you didn't replace the seals...
@@McCoy-ev4tv that's weird, the water pump is driven by an intermediate shaft which driven by the timing chain but I don't think that would damage the timing, unless they did something around the crank pulley!!
John Lucas, it wasn't there, someone had been there before and didn't put it back... you gotta look out for it, because you can rip out temp sensor electrical connector if you don't remove it carefully...
This is why i dont buy german cars you pay so mutch money but you get cheap plastic...I have a fiat everything is metal termostat water pump no problems i have been driving for 5 years never something im happy i sold my bmw same like this all plastic
