One thing I noticed on this video not a lot of people have, how stacked your ASU’s are. I appreciate your service SFC! I did four years. Didn’t have near the chest candy you did. Thanks for making such good content and keep on keeping on brother!🤘🏼
As usual, most helpful/detailed video I could find. 👏 Small flex, I never needed a wrench, never broke a bolt and removed the uppipe with the shield on. They sure make these trucks serviceable!!
Truck master I just want to thank you for your detailed how to video. If it wasn’t for your channel I would have been lost. Just got done pulling my turbo and it was a pain in the butt but it was easier seen how to through all the steps. Thank you sir!! And I’m always waiting on your new vids.
I THINK YOUR VIDEOS ARE GREAT AND INFORMATIVE , I'VE BEEN WORKING FOR GM FOR OVER THIRTY YEARS AND WAS A GM MASTER DIESEL TECH I DID 90 % OF THE DIESEL WORK IN MY SHOP , YOU WORK BETTER THAN SOME OF MY YOUNG TECH .. JOHN
Thanks for the instructional videos. New turbo installed. Pvc reroute, resonator capped off, Egr plate slid behind egr cooler (egr was turned off with previous owners tune). Edge gauge w egt sensor, 3” ppe down pipe (had a straight pipe previous owner), k&n air filter stock intake. 361000 miles original turbo. Truck is running so smooth! 🖖🏻
I second this I’m now 7 days into this job and about another $1000 in because I didn’t notice the egr delete and the lift but I’ve finally managed to do it with the stock hight on jack stands and got an egr delete and straight pipe out of the whole ordeal
@carsonstine8875 I removed egr cooler and made a plate to bolt on the pipe in place of cooler the welded 2 small pieces of flat stock to my plate and bolted the ends down to keep the block off plate from vibrating and eventually cracking the pipe. I have done several of these now. First one took me more time than I'll ever admit to but now I can do it in about 6 hours including making my block offs and putting the modified tune on. I leave cab on the truck and an induction heater is your friend on the exhaust bolts against the firewall
@@granthardy4661more likely than not the unison ring is seized. Cheap way to fix is to order the 10 blade kit from KCTurbo. $500 and about 5-10 hours of labor and you can rebuild your stock turbo. Surface rust and carbon build up inside the turbo and it needs to be thoroughly cleaned before reassembly .
Just installed a RDS 64mm turbo in my LBZ. I’ve done so many upgrades to this truck by using only your videos. I don’t know how I could’ve done it without your videos man. Thank you. Next step are new transmission lines.
Same here, I actually purchased my lbz with confidence after watching Josh. Just installed trans cooler lines yesterday. All of them were leaking so I just cut the rubber flex parts and disco'd at trans. Took about 2hrs total
I appreciate your level of detail in the whole process ( I wish we could have seen the turb oil return. Im sure there was a lot of cussing 😅) Im currently Putting a 67mm Fleece turbo in my LML and its all deleted and pretty much carries over the same information.
When i bought my truck i. Hated that they ren a body life and a 6" lift. But man does it free up room at the back. Turbo sheid slid right out no bending and tons of room between pipes and firewall. Glad i waited to take them off
Another excellent how to video. Great info on where all the bolts are, size, how to get to them and tools used like swivels and extensions. Keep it up bud!
These Duramax's are so easy to work on. Everything is easy to get to and I don't see half the pointless engineering that I see on 6.0 Powerstrokes. Very good video man. Sub'd
thanks for sharing your videos josh, I recently ordered a Wcfab Y bridge kit for my 06 lbz. Can’t wait to install it. You have a lot of tips and tricks that sure help making these jobs easier for a guy who has never done them before 👍
I'm not trying to nit pick and I know it's an older video, but in the description of the video you have a list of parts and upgrades you have done to your truck. The one that caught my eye would be the pvc reroute... I don't know if auto correct changed it for you. But the actual name is pcv - positive crankcase vapor. Just want to help a fellow gm guy out. Keep on the good videos.
Josh, This was a VERY GOOD How To/Install video! Thank you for giving us such Great Content. One of, if not the BEST Duramax RU-vid channels out there...… MERRY CHRISTMAS & HAPPY NEW YEAR TO YOU & YOURS, SIR. #DURAMAXLIFE
Put a Danville turbo in my lbz, and used this video and your other content as major references I studied up on to make installing myself a breeze. Thank you
Keep in mind, none of these peformance upgrades are required for the truck to operate. The truck can go 500,000 from the factory without the upgrades. But for the LBZ engine that truckmaster has from the factory the truck has 365 HP and has 650 lb-ft of torque. Where the 07 5.9 cummins only has 325 HP and 610 lb-ft. Both engines have similar set ups in order to meet governmental exhaust regulations, but a different arrangement of a components under the hood, each one has it's own difficulties to do upgrades like this. So in order to "bullet proof" either truck it's about the same process. But keep in mind the truck masters truck is now set up to push potentially about 600+ HP and maybe 900 lb-ft of torque. So it's a far from stock application. In my opinion if you spend $10000 on upgrades for the LBZ and then $10000 on the 07 5.9 cummins the LBZ would produce more HP and lb-ft of torque. But I think everybody still agrees on one saying "anything but a ford". Sources: Duramaxhub.com Cumminshub.com
Great video bro! I just got my first D_max 04 lb7. Got mirrors and a sinister trans brace from your video! Getin into all the mods man.. hope to see more of your build!!
Love your channel... I found this video awhile back and remembered it today after I snapped the bottom bolt on my up pipe off into the pedestal... appreciate the descriptiveness... a lot lol
Do you think you could do a video about injector cleaning? What you think is the best option and cleaning products or, opinions? From pulling the fuel lines and running mix of cleaner and diesel, to seafoam in the fuel filter? Would love to hear your take on it and so would others I bet. My number 8 is reading +8.4, the only one out of spec. I do have a lift pump and run acdelco filters and the silver bottle of power service every 2 tanks. Thanks a lot, best duramax channel around!
Great video! Best one on RU-vid. The only thing I'd like to add is that it's VERY important to torque to banjo fittings properly. They snap very easily (ask me how I know!). GM spec is 19 ft. Lbs for both the oil feed line bolts and the coolant feed bolts. I almost lost my turbo and my engine due to over tighten the oil line first time around. Last time I ever do a project without proper torque specs. Thanks again for the awesome video. Helped me out last weekend doing my 68 mm Lincoln Diesel Service turbo. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family!
Oil feed line is the one with the banjo fitting on top of turbo? Reason I ask because there’s a hole on the thread of the bolt does that have to line up with the feed line in? I’m having issues with a oil leak I think on the return that’s under the bottom of turbo leading to the block on the engine. I’m still concerned about having the banjo fitting as well.
@@keithmartinez07 no the hole doesn't need to line up it works no matter what. I've since replaced my feed line with AN fittings. Fleece performance sells a kit but it still uses a banjo bolt. I used An fittings on both sides. You have to plug the hole in the block with an M12x1.5 brass plug. The new feed line goes to the rifle fitting on the block located on the passenger side near the motor mount. You can buy the fittings from any Diesel performance shop. Lmk if you have any other questions
Very helpful video. I’m just pulling mine off my 05 2500HD now.. co-axle shaft play when you wiggle the front Vanes..😢 well done video, now I know where to look for bolts. Cheers
well I was watching your videos on the duramx because I found one rereal cheap but it needed some work. I think I will stay with my cummins at least I had no problem with the water pump replacment on it. Thanks for your good videos. Only problem I had with the cummins was I was 600+ miles from home and my tool box was not in the truck
I came here because I got all the bolts off except oil drain because I didn't know how to remove it underneath the turbo but after watching ill just remove the bolts to where it connects to the block/engine....thanks ima go zip those two screws out and pull the turbo out
The ARP replacement bolts are supposed to work better and not snap. They're available in a 6pt, 12pt and Stainless. ARP 672-1003(5pk) 12mm 12pt head M10x1.5 x 30mm flanged 180,000 Tensile 8740 chromoly; SS ARP 772-1003(5pk). I believe the 12pt is supposed to take more torque less stripping the head. The The copper antiseize is supposed to work better in high temp situations. The uppipe bolts should be torqued to about 39ft lbs
New up pipes bolts are made of what? Original bolts aren't steel, not magnetic. Thinking they're stainless or another alloy. Also I never had any luck with anti seize in that much heat. Great how to video, always watch, keep them coming.
How important is the upper turbo heat shield to be in place? I have a 07 LBZ I just bought and had it shipped. Took it to my diesel shop for an overall look at it and if there were any issues I needed to address. Next day phone call was something I didn't want to hear, $6,500.00 needed to address issues. I am disabled and not able to work any longer on my vehicles. This news put a stake through my heart. I owned a 06 but made certain the maintenance was always done, fluids, filters, tires, suspension, engine scans, etc.. The list is long on what they found out. I'm leaving to go pick it up and decide what I can do. Some of it I'm certain can be ignored, but I was told I had 2 bad injectors, power steering hose ready to rupture, seals on oil pan is bad, rear seal on trans and seals on transfer-case, front brakes needs to be flushed and serviced, shocks all the way around, serpentine belt, front end alignment, turbo heat shield, drivers side valve cover and some other issues I can't remember off the top of my head. I can get some help to do the belt and heat shield but was told you have to raise the truck cab up a few inches off the frame to get it in, I don't know. The valve cover has a broken bolt hole for a bracket, if I had it off I could weld it back and tap it but again I'm limited and it looks like a lot of work to remove it. I never dreamed I would be able to own another LBZ and this one is beautiful but it falls short on upkeep when it comes to maintenance. It has EFI Live but I could not tell any difference between selections. It drive great around town but when I drove it to the Diesel Shop on the interstate I noticed it lacked power or maybe it didn't respond like I was used to with my 06. Thank you for your opinion and your service, God Bless
Awesome video thanks! Question please, how do you get the heat shield off the top of the turbo AND do you need to put it back on after you replace the turbo
Pro tip- you can get all of the up pipe bolts off with a 3” 3/8 extension and appropriate shallow socket Took me a couple times to figure that out but saves you from running back and forth from the tool box
@@KRoDz-rd4ec all of them from the fender well, except for 1 The one on the drivers side up pipe that up by the turbo that is closest to the passenger side you’ll have to go from the top with that extension, if you’d like to get that bolt out from the fender well grab a 6” extension, there’s a stud in the way
Thank You for the video showing how to replace the Turbo. I got a repair quote of $7000, I watched the video and replaced it myself. BUT! The oil supply hose is leaking , down in the intake valley. Did you put thread sealer on the thread? Because I need torque to specifically. Not looking forward to doing this over and over.
So I have the 2005 Chevy Duramax. I’ve taken it to 4 different diesel guys and know can figure out the issue I’m having. There is a vibration noise coming from somewhere in the engine. I have replaced pulley tensioner, belt, pulley and noise comes and goes. I have a video of the actual noise I can send you and see if maybe u can lead me in the right direction.
Hey man, so did you break off a couple of mounting bolts on the turbo pedestal? I couldn’t tell for sure I wanna tackle this job myself but kinda scared if you broke a couple..lol
So you commented on snapped bolts, but don't mention what you did to fix those snapped bolts. Would appreciate your knowledge of what all you've had to do when snapping bolts.
Truckmaser Maybe update the video to include harder with egr cooler and the cooler lines attached never mentioned to remove. Watched your video and was ready to pull turbo and not a big deal but was never mentioned and struggled for a min trying to get that heavy ass turbski out when they are connected
Hey great video truck Master I saw all your videos I deleted my truck just watching you ☺️ so I got my gmc 08 lmm with 135 miles and I want to get a 64 from Ryan’s diesel ) mods to the truck Hsp 2 pieces (y) bridge and intake intercooler removed after market up and down pipe (H&S) tuner With 4 tunes stock tow street and performance always run on stock or tow Nothing done to the trans so this is the question I live in Maryland and I run my own business will this affect my truck because I cut grass every day so I use every day and on winter I remove snow with 2 yards salt spreader and plow. So let me know if it will damage my truck so I won’t do it thanks 😊
Just discovered your channel. Awesome videos. Best dmax how-to’s on yt. I’m curious if you could tell me whether or not it’s possible to swap that band clamp that holds the two turbo halves together, without pulling the turbo? Apparently it’s not a common problem. Consequently, I can’t find any information on replacing that clamp. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks! And keep up the good work!
I know this is old but I have the same problem. Got a new clamp on there (not easy) but having a hard time getting the clamp back together to get the nut on it. I'll let you know how I eventually get this figured out
Wow amazing job.... I'm new to your site but love it!! I send your channell to my mechanic .... question .my turbo vanes are stuck .it's an 05 lly ... we were gonna take out turbo n clean ... 05 with 260k ... he says turbo has lots of power .is it OK to just clean it or should I replace it ??
Great job brother Looking to tackle this project myself around the first or second wk inside January. Thinking the 68mm will b too big, my reason being I tow a 41ft camper so torque is my main concern.
Melvin S I’m sure you’ve already done this job, but I use my Duramax to move tractors and sprayers, totally over 20-25k lbs. my 68mm Danville pulls better than any stock turbo
I’m changing my turbo to a 63mm on my lmm. Comes with new vps and everything. I would have to go to dealer to relearn turbo. My BIGGGG QUESTION IS: they gonna red lash or do anything with my ecu? Mines efi live with 5 switch and I don’t have the programmer anymore. Don’t wanna lose my tunes, can u let me know truck master!
Nice in / out video, man I'm glad I have a cummins, a lot easier to get the turbo out if needed. What are you thinking on the polished look with the red, like it?
Right below the " 84 relay ? " what is the red wire with 2 fuses for ? I'm finishing up the swap rn and seen I have the same double fuse an I have no clue what it's for. I was thinking it's for my light bar idr.
Great video, looking to put a 64mm in my lbz this spring. Would like to ask, are your up pipes stock? I thought maybe I remember you having to change them out awhile back because one was cracked.
I’m wanting to do a 68mm Ryan’s diesel service turbo like you and I’m going to do head studs but was wondering do you think I’d be good or not? Cause I worry about cracking a piston cause that’s what the lbz are known for
I have a 2015 lml 3500 dually it’s my off road toy hauler. Iv installed a stock cp3 pump conversion installed HSP bridge pipe with hot pipes/ Driver and passenger up pipes 3 inch downpipe 4 inch straight pipe exhaust. Cold air intake airdog 165 lift pump unlimited performance easy link 0-200 tune with transmission tune. My question is on tune 4 and five Lags power what do I do? I forgot to mention I have a EGR delete with stock turbo and injectors.
What made you notice that it was leaking. Performance issue then Visual inspection or did it throw a code ? I'm wondering because my gasket was split in half and I had lot of build up around the pipe and I had some codes related to turbo. If it was code which one was it. I have a p0299
Hey Truckmaster, I had the band between the compressor and the turbo break and need to replace it. You think that I will need to pull the whole turbo, or can I just remove everything on the compressor side so that I can move it enough (1-2") to slip the ring in.
@@TruckMaster Okay thank you sir! i’ll look more into that! The plan is to make mines look like yours with flat bed! thanks a lot anything really helps
I'm tearing the turbo out of my 05 Duramax to put a 10 blade turbine wheel in it with rebuild kit, would I have to force oil to the turbo after job is done? Or can I just start it and let it run after job is done?
