Thank you for this video! I’m a 20 year old woman with absolutely no experience with home improvement or being handy, but I want to make my trailer look nicer. It was my great grandmother’s, so I’d like to do the job right in respect. This video is extremely helpful!
You are right. I have used them often. They make sanding sponge for drywall mud. I have seen on larger drywall jobs use sponge mops. Thanks for the tip.
I'm doing this now in the bathroom before taking on the rest of the house 1 room at a time and then painting, etc. Thank you for the demonstration and encouragement. I'm a 75-year-old woman and I would encourage others to go ahead and make the effort. I'm learning how to "undo" mistakes, be patient and redo what needs to be done in the right way.
I really appreciate this video. I'm redoing my daughter's bedroom for her 10th birthday and would like to do this for her room. Can you show how you texture the area so it doesn't stand out so much?
Thank you sir! I was kind of scared to do this but this gave me the courage to try it in my small laundry room FIRST 😂. If all goes well, I’ll tackle my bedroom next. I figured if I mess up at least it’s the laundry room 😂. I’m going to plan it first so I won’t have to make trips back to the store.
Great video...another gentleman on RU-vid recommended all of the things that you do, but he also recommended putting new drywall screws every 8 inches or so down the seam, on either side of the drywall. He said that it would greatly help restrict movement. He also recommended the heavier mud for the first coat because it contains more glue and is stronger, and will resist cracking more as the home tends to move with the frost, since it's not on a foundation. He then recommends that you can finish the last 2 coats with all purpose lite drywall compound. Do you agree with these suggestions? Interested to know your feedback. Thanks, so much! 🙂
They good ideas if you have loose drywall to add screws although quite often then drywall is glued in addition to stapled. Regards drywall mud it will really make a noticeable difference his suggestions are accurate and well intentioned . Perhaps too much to worry about for marginal differences. I like to follow the kiss principle keep it simple stupid. Still his suggestions are accurate.
My response to your question will be guarded.let me explain why. Quite often if your looking for closer to perfection you can find imperfection. What can be done to attain higher and higher quality looks in this situation? Well you would be red to remove the 3/8 drywall and straighten wall framing to get straighter wall then hang with thicker drywall 1/2 or 5/8 spend as much time finishing finishing as you would in commercial situations. I suggest that would be to much expense to fit most budgets. What hope to offer in this situation is to get your home to look better than with batten strips without breaking the bank. Fitting answer closer to your question is spend more time blending the drywall mud edges making it all look better. Hope I am helping. I want to make your life better and cut down on your fear and discouragement.
I don't know what kind of texture on walls your dealing with. If it's minor texture I don't think you will notice. It could be you could place trim there to separate from the textures difference. That is if you can't match the texture. You can by orange peel in a can just don't spray near an open flame. It has a flammable gas in the can. Hope helping
I will translate homeowner to pro for you. Paint and rollers might make for a good next video. Older wall panels had a vinyl coating with a wallpaper texture. Todays has a printed paper that appears to have a vinyl texture but actually doesn't. Homeowners experience is now with 2 in 1, paint plus primer. Regardless of what coating is on the walls, they should be treated like new construction, prime first, then paint. Even if the paint is sprayed for a smooth finish, most, if not all texture will automatically go away. You prime first so you are not encountering the problem. The answer is, if you see anything after your prime, rather than the cheap package of disposable rollers, buy the fluffier single or double pack that fits in your budget. The deeper the nap, the greater the texture of paint. I am repairing tape and texture. There is 2-3 textures, you must match what you have to the spray can you buy. For anything other than repair, it is cheaper to hire a pro or use a different texture method than it is to buy enough cans to cover an entire room.
have you ever taped the strips/seams on the ceiling? not all mobile homes have seams on their ceiling but mine does and I have thought about removing them like the wall but then how would I get that popcorn look where I taped the ceiling? so for now I have just painted over it.
Most definitely have and then instead of matching the texture there I put a heavy knock down texture over all of it to blend it . Have done it many many times . By the way there is video on putting up hand texture . It can be done
I have found no one coat paint. Quite often 3 coats are needed. Primer by itself first coat then maybe one coat of any type maybe a second. Have been using Behr lately. It seems paint is not as good as it was just 10 years ago no matter the brand. Any way primer being very inexpensive is the way to start. Hope that helps and I wish you well on your project.
I had to razor blade both sides of strip to remove it. When i pryed the strip away and most of the vinyl covering came off with the strip leaving the layer of brown paper underneath the removed strip. How do I treat this brown paper before attempting to paper and mud the seam? Thank you.
Been there .quite often have to use a razor blade on both sides. Have to do the same in conventional houses around trim . You will need to run a thin coat or two of drywall mud over it
Is it possible to replace the batons with modular home tape instead of mudding? We’re on blocks and the modular shifts every few years and I’m worried about cracks so through maybe the tape may be a better option Or perhaps a non crack caulking? Thanks
So far, I've heard that latex silicone is a good solution. Same stuff for showers and so on. Little more work to apply and softly sanding it out, but It allows mobile walls to expand
My wife arranged videos . Looking at it it would be part of a large video. I usually do a hand texture with a texture brush a drywall mud . I have also many times sprayed texture on the walls using a hopper and compressor with drywall mud . I hope that helps.
You certainly can . Just try not to sand the drywall paper much because the paper will stand up when you paint. I personally like to use a sanding sponge.with no dust. Wish you well on your project.
How can you make sure the dry wall won't crack after a while when you get done taping and mudding it? I did it successfully in one of the rooms of my house except one seam that was below the window. And it keeps cracking every time I have tried to fix it. I tried paper tape, fiberglass tape and mesh tape. I've have the best luck with the mesh tape personally. But that one spot keeps cracking.
2 questions. They slam double wides together and some have been seamed together on the lots previously. Chasing down micro cracks at the seams, I ended up finding a loose sheet and had their previous mud chip out. I'm building up in thin layers to repair it. How thick can you apply the mud at one time and do you have to wait for it to completely dry before you go back over it? I'm going to be encountering the same problem where the tape & texture wall meets the non-tape and texture in my kitchen do to the difference in thickness.
Cracks generally are caused by failure of the drywall tape to hold to one side or the other or the lack of tape being installed. Thickness of the mud can cause the mud not to dry as quickly. Which where quick mud can be used . Any where from 45 minutes to give. It's in powder form you mix with water. If you mix with hot water it will dry twice as fast. I have a video using quick mud . Hope this info helps . Kudos to you for having the fortitude to do the work
You can the strips you might need to add screws to hold the drywall up. Regards the popcorn you should be able to remove it . If not consider a heavy knockdown texture to try to hide it. I wish the best on your project.
How likely is this to crack as the foundation shifts? I heard somewhere that batten strips allow the seams to shift together and apart as the foundation changes. Thanks for the video.
Like a brick house or any other conventional home if the foundation moves it will crack. If you're wanting your home to look like a house you will remove the batten strips and you will have cracks like a house does when the foundation shifts. Hope that helps.
Usually a good idea to give 24 hours. Still you can paint much earlier. Also you can speed up the process with fans and heat and also using fast mud which comes in powder form you mix with water. This fast mud comes 45 minute 20 minute and 5 minute something like that. I believe we have multiple videos on the use of fast mud. And guess what you use hot water to mix and the drying time is cut in half. Lot of answers to your question. Hope this helps as that is my fullest intention to help others.
There is a reason why they still sell paper tape. The disadvantages are numerous when using web tape. I could make a video on that alone. Perhaps I will. One being when you run your knife in the corner it hits the web causing the knife to hop leaving a very rough finish. Still web tape is great for some patches. Perhaps a few other places. Maybe I should say to each his own.
Fiber tape has its place in certain applications. Paper tape is best for the other 90%. You need more skill to be good with paper, hence more people seem to complain about it.
