I followed this process on a 2012 mazda 6. I cleaned the bracket without removing it but, hit it with some pb blaster at all points of rotation and where the cable attaches. I cleaned that off with a wire brush and some steel wool, reattached it, and just to see if that was enough with just that moving easily again, I reconnected the cable and battery and tried starting in park (which previously wasn't working - only neutral). It worked and registers park again now. I didn't have to actually replace the switch which is good because the nut was pretty frozen with rust and I didn't want to force it and hurt the trans. Key takeaway here is try and see if it worked after cleaning some rust off the bracket and where the cable attaches before replacing the whole switch or fighting with the bracket for hours. It may just work.
My car recently is not starting. All lights console lit just complete silence. I hv been jiggling gear selector then it starts. Someone suggested maybe this safety switch. Does this sound like the same thing. Just wondering. Prev mechanic already ripped me off. Said it was starter.
Changing the neutral safety switch is the solution to the long running problem of the Mazda auto transmission gear indicator flickering problem and subsequent jump to 3rd gear. Its a pain to change so I had to remove the airbox to get better access and I would recommended removing it to get better access.
Thanks so much for the well explained video! It would be nice to have a complete troubleshooting guide to cover the situation where the car intermittently does not start in park. Thanks again! You were awesome!
I have completed this replacement, but had not seen this video until now, because my car will not start at all now. There are a few things I did NOT do that your video included. 1) I did NOT disconnect the battery, 2) I did NOT use a 10mm wrench to hold the lever in place while removing the larger 21mm nut and 3) I did NOT move the lever into the Neutral position before slipping the new switch on. Now, when I try to start the vehicle, I get nothing in any position. Searching for answers. Thank you for this video. Wish I had seen it first.
Thank you. Verified this was the cause of a no crank no start prior to replacement by bypassing the sensor and verifying starting. When I latter went to replace the sensor I gave the local dealer a call and asked them if the fix is truly a replace or a clean and reinstall existing. He suggested that a cleaning was all that was needed. I did that. Upon reinstall and verifying that everything was shifting correctly, I was finding that things were not right. With the gear selection cable disconnected, I manually cycled through the gears by manually actuating the selector at the shaft. Dashboard within the car confirmed all the correct gears. However, when reconnecting the cable I could never get the dashboard to register park or neutral again... Neutral WAS registering prior to removal, park was hit or miss... Im not sure what to do now. Seems as though something is wrong the cable length... but why is this an issue all of a sudden? And why is park and neutral not working now, but neutral was prior to removal? Hmm... I believe I reinstalled sensor correctly. the sensor has little notches on the inside to make it a keyyed assembly with the gear selector. So I dont believe it is even possible to install it incorrectly because of this keying mechanism. Furthermore, with the sensor registering all gears on the dash when the cable is removed and manually changing gears at the shaft, Im starting to believe sensor is fine and that the cable has gotten shorter. This problem has creeped up the last 3 winters in a row. Been fine during the summer. Starting to think more and more that the gear selector cable has shrunk a touch... Call me crazy. I plan to give Mazda a call and run it by them.
Great pov video...thx...i changed upper tranny mount ..sloppily put jack and wood slats under tranny case and caught switch...snapped it in half at terminals .. 😖
Could this be related to my 2006 Mazda3 automatic not showing "D" on the dash when in Drive (instead it shows the gear number) and in manual mode it shows nothing?
Hello. I like your videos, very informative. may I ask you please; I have a Mazda 3 2008 and I need to change the gearbox selector switch and reverse light switch (it is manual), what type of RTV silicon to use when I install the switches as I have noticed they had like some sort of thread locker or RTV silicon that was green in color, the manual says, install the switches with new 'packing', I just do not understand what they mean by 'packing'? thank you very much. Cheers
sometimes I have this problem with my Mazda Protege. It is hard to move the shifter from "D" to "P" position, or "P" to "R"; I have to stick a screw driver or key to the release hole to get the shifter move. Is that the shifter cable problem? or the neutral or park switch problem?
There are actually two times the switch might need to be adjusted during a switch replacement: For preparing to install the switch, you first adjust it (out of the car) by rotating the switch until contacts B and C have 75 Ohms of resistance between them. Here's how you tell where the contacts are: If you hold the switch so that the red gasket faces your chest, with the connector up, Contact A is all the way to the right and contact F is all the way to the left. Using clip leads and an Ohm meter, or "Multimeter" connect the Ohm Meter to contacts B and C. Now with the switch still out of the car, measure the resistance. It needs to be about 750 Ohms which indicates it is in the Neutral position. So if you don't get that reading, you may have to rotate the switch (stick your finger nail in the hole and use the projecting key to rotate it) so you see 750 Ohms (mine read around 1000 Ohms) on the Ohm meter (the switch "clicks" and stops in various positions). When I bought my Dorman 511-105 replacement it wasn't shipped to me in the Neutral position. When you install the switch in your car, you want to make sure your Shift Lever is in Neutral. So before you even start removing anything, put your Shift Lever in Neutral with the car wheels securely blocked so it can't move. If you use this link (below my post), you might be able to download or view the Mazda 6 manual. The Range Switch (so they call it) is discussed in Section K starting on page K14. To adjust the switch once it's in the car is more difficult, because it's hard to see inside the connector. But to adjust it, with the mounting screws NOT Really that tight yet but threaded in enough to so the front of the heads touch the switch, you will need to again connect clip leads to terminals B and C and see if it is still about 750 Ohms. If you don't see that resistance, then you have to slightly rotate the switch on the mounting screws (while they are only "snug" or slightly tightened until you again see 750 Ohms with your shifter in Neutral. When you have it adjusted correctly then you can fully tighten the two mounting bolts to 91 - 97 Inch Pounds (NOT FOOT Pounds). BTW, the torque for the big nut on the input shaft of the transmission is 24 - 33 Foot Pounds. When you tighten or loosen that big bolt, make sure you hold the input lever with a wrench (like she shows you in this video) so it won't turn the input shaft inside the transmission. Here is the link to the Mazda manual: www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/Mazda/6/Mazda%206%20Workshop%20Manual%202002.pdf
@@1AAuto I got a 2004 M3 and the neutral switch always gets oily inside the connector thought the O ring . Now the car won't move forward or reverse . Probably that's the issue in my case? Oil level is OK! I'm having problems trying to put it in gears from parking I put the brake and won't move down sometimes. ????????? Any Advice??? Thanks!
Does anybody know if you can buy the metal lever for the neutral safety switch/ gear selector switch the one the cable attaches to? I plan on replacing the switch but mine is more crusty than this one so figure swap it out too
+Priscilla Robert We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great videos 1A Auto! Just wondering why you needed to replace the Neutral Safety Switch? Seems that you just needed to clean and lube the cable/mechanism. Thanks
I just swapped out my old Neutral Start Switch for a new one and the problem of my car not always starting in Park did not go away. I know for sure that I have the switch adjusted correctly. After my attempted repair didn't work, I went on line and found a RU-vid post that shows a second cable that evidentially allows the car do detect it is in Park. It may be that there are two requirements to show on the dash that the vehicle is in park. We know about the Neutral Start Switch, but nobody said anything about the 2nd cable in the console. This post (see link) shows how an owner of a 2008 Mazda 6 remedied the same exact problem I have with my Mazda not starting in Park. He shows a cable adjustment in front of the shifter that seems to need a slight lengthening so the car knows it is in Park. Paste the following link in your browser, have a look, and let me now what you think: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8jK0AatHjFg.html
Did anybody notice she never removed her gloves that's why when you take your car to a mechanic You always have to clean your car after because it's dirtier than when you brought it to them