What I like about Larry is he's not a snake oil salesmen like some of these other guys. He DOES have his own line of products, mentions them, but doesn't tell you that you NEED them to be successful. He just loves detailing and loves sharing and teaching.
I just want to thank you. I bought my son a 1999 Lexus es300 one owner for his first car. I literally spent hours watching your videos because your not short winded, your in depth and I appreciated that. I was able to bring back the paint to the point you could see the original pearl sparkly shin. Along with your video on the old 911 Porsche that was going to a museum and a link to buy the Loew Cornell art painting pen I fixed more paint imperfections not to mention all your videos on interior cleanup. You have helped me make one high school Millennial happy with his first car even though it is 20 years old. I really appreciated men like you who make RU-vid videos. You're a master at what you do, I'm sure you already know this. Thank you!
@@jpdst29 I need to start doing the same. Lots of great information. I feel like I'm getting a college degree in paint correction. Top notch content for sure.
@@TheRelaxingBuddah RU-vid doesn't pay much, and Ammo NYC has very few ads. He's making money by the advertisement of his services and especially his products.
Thank you for this series. As a detail shop owner I am constantly looking to grow and learn more. I’ve found most other detail channels are way below where I am knowledge wise, as they’re more aimed at beginners. These videos go so much more in depth and I actually learn something every time. Thank you gentlemen!!
Amazing to be able to learn properly at your convenience. If you forget anything rewind and listen again. Practice makes perfect. Thank you Larry and Kevin.
It's amazing how you've built your empire and now Ammo is a common household name in detailers world or just detailing enthusiasts. It's also great that we can go back and see it being built first hand through your videos.
This summer I'm gonna polish my black ford focus, just built a wooden garage with tarps as the roof and walls so I can polish without dust and stuff getting on it. I say summer because I want to watch all of the videos in this series before I go at it. It's gonna be my first time polishing anything, but i think if I buy the right tools and do all my research (watch all your videos) I should come out on top. Thank you for uploading this series, highly appreciated 🖒
You guys have been indispensable in my detailing education. Started working on other people's cars recently and you were the genesis of my confidence. The irony, though? My own car was just "swiped" at the supermarket by a shopping cart. Fixed it yesterday because of the knowledge i gained from your videos. Many thanks.
Thank you very much to Larry for making this happen, and Kevin for choosing to share this information along side Larry. I would expect to pay for this type of information, and this series has greatly increased my understanding of my work. I recently finished a paint correction in 1-step, with better results than I’ve ever gotten 2-step correcting cars in the past. It’s great peace of mind knowing that your work will last for years, and that you aren’t leaving a customer with subsurface defects that may not show themselves immediately. The time, money, and effort put into these courses is easy to see, and greatly appreciated. Once again, I can’t thank you guys enough!
As an engineer I can really appreciate the logic and science that you guys apply in this craft. Often times in the craft realm people just try things or do them out of habit/tradition with no reason as to why. Kudos. Maybe I missed this in the video, but what causes the buff haze? I think that’s really important to know for two reasons. 1: you want to prevent it when you polish in the first place. 2: if you’re going to try and correct the haze, you of course don’t want to make it worse.
Pure You Tube Gold... This video series has the potential to move the entire human race forward in a very positive direction... Because it describes an effictive method for finding the imperfections... then developing the most efficient and economical approach to removing thoes imperfections. Thank-you all for taking the time to bring the rest of us up this level of restoration quality and perfection!
An idea drilled into our heads often.( "clean the pads between every pass) from my two go to channels....this one and Apex Detail. Encyclopedias at our disposal. Many thanks good chaps!
These videos are so enticing and mesmerizing, you come here to maybe a learn a thing or two, but his passion just take you through the rabbit hole and magical world of in depth detailing.
Thanks you guys for your efforts! Rest assured that this has most definitely raised our skills, approach, excitement and enjoyment for keeping our cars as nice as we can for the long run. We practiced what you showed us here today a week or so ago on my sons daily. He is super proud of his work and the results. No Bazookas where deployed..
This series of videos are the single best form of education for anyone (amateurs to professionals) in regard to really understanding what is going on when you are compounding/ polishing. Thank you AMMO and thanks to Kevin Brown 👍
Thanks a lot for this ATA 2 series. Holograms and rotary swirls were my nightmare. After this series I feel like Luke Skywalker after going to planet Dagobah for a jedi crash-course. Now everything makes sense regarding the prep, compounding, polishing and sealing car clear coat. Great, amazing knowledge this is. May the detailing skills be with you. Thx Kevin & Larry.
Larry very in depth and informative more for the professional or those wanting to get into detailing more than I who just wants to see a wreck of a paint job on an everyday car being brought back to life the AMMO way.
16:47 Kevin is holding his polisher like it's his baby... Fantastic information here, makes all the sense in the world considering you can't add material back to the vehicle (without having it painted).
Larry. Please try to stop worrying about the video length lol. I rarely even wash my car (sorry), and I certainly don’t detail, BUT I watch your entire video every time. It doesn’t matter the length. It’s knowledge being passed on about an interesting topic with so many things to discover. I may not properly care for my car atm (I will with my next one), but this information is valuable to so many people. The length is fine. Even if it’s an hour, I’ll still stay glued to the screen just listening and learning. It’s interesting stuff. So again, the length of your videos is ALWAYS completely fine. You’re good. Have a great weekend:)
Great video larry and kevin. Always something new for me to learn and these videos help the industry and enthusiasts get better and work smarter. Rotary swirls and holograms are easy to minimise to an ultra fine level or never cause. Residue extraction system whilst polishing will change the whole game but im not smart enough to invent it but i have a few ideas. Kevin is the guy who could.
How do you make such a complicated subject so simple? Larry and Kevin succeeded. Hopefully, Larry will put the information in the introductory and now, the intermediate series in a spreadsheet reminder for us mere mortals. Thanks, guys.
One thing that I don't ever here detailers mention is frequency. Seeing that clear coats and paints are only so thick, after X number of polishes (it may be 100, I don't know) you are going to be getting into the metal. What do you recommend for how often per year, lifetime of vehicle, etc for buffing/compounding? Thanks Larry!
Hey bud. If you touch the car properly after a compound and polish, hopefully you will not have to do it again. If you have to compound your car yearly, then you need to evaluate how you clean/touch your car. Hope that helps. thanks for watching and supporting AMMO
This series is awesome. Nothing like understanding the technical stuff so you can make educated decisions. One question on blowing the pads, can you use canned compressed air? Are there any other alternatives to clean the pads while working on the car? If not, how do you gauge how many pads you'll need for the job, or when to switch the pad? Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Great video! My only concern is how much of the polishing oils were left over after correction and may be masking how effective the correction actually is. It wasn't shown whether or not an IPA or body solvent was used to remove the residual polishing oils.
Very enlightening Your amended thinking and the way you approach it is easy to follow and make sense. again Thank you both for sharing your time, knowledge and experience with us
So what does this mean for the detailers that swear by like, M105/205? Regardless of car or defects, they always compound, and then polish? And how do we know when compound is NECESSARY versus just using polish and modifying these variables to work the polish more effectively
Larry, great series of videos. One thing I did notice, when Kevin applied the liquid to the pad, he didn't 'dab' 'dab' 'dab' out the product on the panel before the polish, like you see on other videos, he just went straight into it after applying the liquid to the pad. Is that the correct procedure?
Any info available on the dust collection table that you guys used? I’ve been looking for something like this for a long time to help minimize dusting in the shop. Thanks.
Ive just been rewatching some old videos to try and find what i was looking for. You were once detailing a car and put a protective coating on afterwards. Like a ceramic coating, you mentioned you had used many in the passed but this particular one got you the best results. Which product was that? Thanks in advance
The more of this content the better!!! Also are those just baking pans that you painted? Seems like an awesome idea for test panels that could be used over and over again.
This is great content, thank you much! So you're saying you can do the whole car with one pad? Or do you still do like ~1 pad per panel, so about 4 for the whole car? I guess the pad blowing kinda resets the pad and the wetting agent helps bring whatever is absorbed out again and work with it (plus tiny dots of extra when needed).
It's a case per case basis. some vehicles you can use the same pad all the way around, others will need multiple of the same pad. It all depends on the variables and how the paint is reacting. Very important to "read the paint" during a correction. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
👍 Really appreciate your training videos. Quick question. If i only have a couple pads, is it ok to rinse the pads, spin them dry and keep going, or is this method a sure " no way" to go. And if they are a little damp, how will this affect the polish process. Thanks
Hi Larry, is there any chance of you ever doing a segment on sports bikes. Especially ones that have already been ridden and suffered from some light wear marks on the center of the tank. Perhaps even how to put on many layers of sealants (if that's a good idea to do). Or perhaps whether you think paint protection, to help with bugs, road tar, is a good idea. Do you believe some form of ceramic coating over the paint protection is a worthwhile thing.
Great video. I think you should do a video addressing compounds / polishes shelf life. As just a home DIY car enthusiasts, I only use my compounds once a year at best and find I have half bottle of.compound that is 5 years old. Is this taken into account? Or do polishes have short life span?
All waxes and liquid compounds should be stored indoors to keep from freezing solid. I keep my stuff in a basement or root celer during winter. Summer in the garage.
Remember Larry that the clear coat is the millage that your working. Not the paint the paint if you buffed compounded etc would be down to the primer etc so as a note make sure to reference the area which your compunding as top coat , or clearcoat instead of paint. You'll make the industry take note of such. As well as DIY doers an such.
