Demonstration of lower control arm bolt removal. This can be a real pain in the ass, key is patience and the right tools, in the right order. For the INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO CLICK/COPY LINK BELOW. • How to remove seized r...
Great method. Unfortunately I sheared off a bolt just prior to watching this video. All my other bolts came out easily using this method (2x hammers, PB blaster, and 1/2in Harbor Freight 18V impact wrench) on 94 Civic. Thank you, sir!
Wow, you're the BEST, I am having a problem like that, I can't take out rear control arm bolt, nut came out easy but not bolt, I will try you methods again, thanks
This video saved my day!!!! 4 hours last night with a 1500 ft. lb. 3/4 Air Impact Wrench and liquid wrench. Nothing!!!! Not a damn thing! I know I would have to hit this bolt with some kind of science. Heat or cold. Anything to expand or contract the meat in and around the bolt. RU-vid it; Saw this video and got me a torch, hit the bolt for a 30 count and then hit it with an impact wrench; Off in 5 seconds!! Got hot and smoked a bit, but I was determined to get that bold off even if I burned down the car. lol 2006 LandRover LR3. Thanks for this post. I should have video it and posted it. Im going to go do the left side now if I have the same problem, I will video it for you.
Much appreciated brother! I commend you, I've broken 2 out of 3 bolts underneath my control arm go a(2001 Volkswagen Jetta 1.8t) You're an absolute miracle worker! 👌😌😄
I've used a similar method. This works well. Thanks for posting. By the way, I've never been comfortable with a torch near anything that runs on gasoline.
That was helpful. I got me a vertical bolt that goes through the bushing and appears to be seized in the sleeve that goes through the bushing. It is making me insane as I don't really want to cut it off. I'll use the Penetrating Oil and get out the jack hammer. I think the bolt looks relatively clean but it has been in place since 1997 on a Buick Regal. I been beating it with a 3-pound sledge and a piece of rebar. No go!!! It just bounces as the bushing rubber absorbs the force and bounces back. I think I need a bolt tool.
+momoxsparco what kind of drill .and bits to use. I only have a regular corded drill. but I have dremel and stuff if maybe cutting the nuts off cuz my bwr came with new ones
good trick on most bolts. if its totally seized in the bushing those bolts arent going anywhere tho. i have a 99 CRV with original suspension parts and the bolt head snapped first try
+Black Majik By hand, just would take a lot of muscle and a lot more time. I've done it this way before. Get a 1/2 ratchet and a cheater tube, makes it go faster than using a breaker bar.
I really need help, my problem is that it's spinning with a ratchet and the Milwaukee 1/2" Fuel impact gun is making the impact sound while it spins the bolt but it's not moving. Should u get a grinder and cut it or a reciprocating saw and cut the bolt on each end? It's a 2002 Volkswagen Golf GTi front drivers control arm. It's the bolt to the left that goes through the bushing diagonally not the inner busing with the bolt and nut in top. Anyone ever had this problem? I was bending it back and forth while going side to side and up and down and when I put it back together, it didn't line up without using the Jack to line the stabilizer bar link bushings. Should I just drop the whole cross member? I think it's mounted to the transmission. So I don't know if it's load bearing. Any one know what to do? Is there a special bolt puller or something? I'll cut the control arm I have a new one, but I still need to get that bolt out on the outer control arm bushing. Thanks
i soaked my lower control arm bolts 2 nights in a row, today i began the process and followed all your steps, and still the bolt is seized in the bushing. what do i do?
If you haven't gotten it fixed already, just cut the bolt on the inside of the mount between mount and bushing, then drill the remaining bolt out just smaller than the size of the threads, and then rethread/clean up the threads with a threading tool.
There is a better way of doing this. Instead of wasting all that penetrating oil and making a mess just use a propane torth on the bolt head for 2 minutes and then zip it off with ease. Its cheaper (propane as opposed to wasting a can of oil ) and its cleaner. No hammers required and less time spent. Heat it and zip it off with ease
