@9:39 that is a screw to calibrate the pressure(3.8psi for a 75k; it says on the specs)...... I just finished buying a 75k version of this for a $100, the fuel lines were all cracked and so it wasn't pulling any kerosene; replaced the rubber hosing with rubber lines used for windshield wipers(seems to be the same stuff).... where did you end up buying the inner part that broke?(mine hasn't but for future reference maybe nice knowing)
Your heater was missing the circular disk that holds the Graphite blades- 8:41 in the video. The blades fit the side of a round disk and they fly out when the motor turns. They ride inside the recessed area at 8:41 and creates a vacuum. They creates a suction.
Hi mate, love the video very helpful but I can’t find the issue that I have😢 my space heater doesn’t turn on, the button doesn’t light up and everything it’s dead 💔 would you know what the issue can be??
I found the part that holds the orifice should have a spring and a washer, THERE SHOULD BE AN O RING ON THE OPOSITE END OF THE ORIFICE, where I lost it I have no idea. I found an o ring in my set of Viton o rings that was close and installed it. Dead headed the air line and set at 3.8# and reattached the air line, turned it on and " it fired up".! IT DID!! Thanks for the tip from another u tube video. First place to look is a broken or missing o ring next time i get air in the fuel line!!!
Do you happend to know how many volts goes to the igniter, I get fuel spraying out front but it only lights when it feels like it or you get a e1 code and has been doing this ever since I took it out of the box, when looking up code it says sensor may need to be cleaned and it wasnt even dirty. I'm looking to bypass the igniter with my own switch.
I was messing with it today and took the cover off and turned it on and fired right up and put the cover back on and it died with a e1 code so took it back off and fired right up again so now it works on high and low, I put some hinges on the hood and leave it cracked on one side , it was pushing to much air and not lighting, works good now and fires every time.
Sounds like you have an air pressure problem. What does the gage on the back read? If it reads more than 6psi it needs to be adjusted. These heaters are nearly 100% efficient but can kill you if not adjusted right.
My issue is it'll fire and run for a few minutes, then shut off and the light flashes. It also smells to all holy hell when this happens. I've taken it apart like this video and the graphite part is perfectly fine. I made matters worse but going out tonight and kicking it in frustration and snapping the board, so I just bought a new board, but I will keep trying to figure out when it stops sometimes after the board comes in.
I have the 220 DGD, and I just filled it up, 8 gallons. Turned it on, flames came out of the front with no pressure, just flames. Immediately turnedit off. Any ideas? beside bad fan motor. Didn't hear the loud jet sound I normally do.
The filter was not saturated with fuel. It was graphite dust. Fuel does not go through it. Haha. The screw next to the pressure gauge is your air pressure adjustment. Its not a hi/low setting. It needs to be adjusted for the proper pressure for the air/fuel mixture. Should be set by watching the gauge. Just over 6psi.
Is there a way to check the igniter? I don't hear it clicking as if to try and spark. I've checked the gap - good. Fuse is good. I pulled the spark "plug" out to see if it is sparking and it isn't
I checked the sensor and it has continuity. The optic cell changes continuity with the amount of light - I used a flashlight and then a rag to block the light.
I see fuel spraying igniter sparking Blower blowing , but no fire , there is two adjustment crews on the back of the pump , tell me the setting on them.
I Have a 8 year old Dyna Glo 75,000 btu heater with a problem I haven't found anywhere in these responses. Mine pushes air back through the fuel line into the tank even after setting the air pump discharge to less than the recommended 3.8 pound rate. It will not pull fuel into the injector. All of which are clear and unobstructed. Limit switch , optical sensor, igniter, air pump (from 0 to 10 pound) capable set at 3.8" all works fine. After speaking to 2 Customer Service people I was told maybe it is past it's use full life. After $40 of new filters and parts. All works but it will not suck fuel from the tank, while pushing air through the injector into THE FUEL LINE TO THE TANK. 75K orifice in injector clear and spirals on nozzle clean and clear ANY IDEAS? Thanks
@@QuaabQueb No, I have been through this with Dyna Glo at least 3 times in the last few weeks. I get Air back into the tank with 3.8# of air pressure with a new Dyna Glo supplied guage. Any other thoughts? Thanks
Mine work with the top off after replacing the rotor kit.when I put the cover on it smokes..the old rotor was broken so im wondering if some trash may be blocking circulation.
@@IVIylostpotato thank you brother am I able to change the nozzle? Can over filling it with diesel be apart of the problem idk if that’s a dumb question?
My heater is a year old , now it will only run if you loosen the screws of the top half cover to allow more air im figuring in, how weird is that, air filter is new and clean I've only run a tank of fuel since new , so im lost to figure out what's the matter... ...
Mine starting to do that as well. Had an older Reddy heater brand that did the same thing and it turned out the nozzle had worn so badly that it wasn't atomizing properly. I think that might be the case with this one. I'm going to order a new nozzle.
@@Whateven66 You're correct, but I believe much of the sulfur content has been regulated out of it by the EPA. Basically diesel is better to run today, than it was years ago. That is my understanding.
I am having a problem with mine firing. I checked the thermal switch by bi-passing it and no difference. I replaced the ignition module but still not getting a spark. I checked the fuse and its good. I also checked the 2 pins that the ignition module plugs into but when i turn it on it is only showing 56 to 58 volts. I don't think its the board as it is working fine other wise but I'm not sure. I fire it up by using a propane torch and it runs fine its just not igniting. Any advice would be appreciated. I'm not finding the problem.
@@bobreichel It's the only thing that comes to night, but you say it stays light when you jumper it? Usually it wont stay light if the flame sensor is defective
@@QuaabQueb No not when I jump it, it stays lit when I lit it up with a propane torch. I stick the propane torch flame in a little hole in the back turn it on and ignites the fuel and it stays lit but if it turns off due to the thermostat shutting it down it won't relight up again. Is it possible that the igniter module that I got is bad even though it's brand new? Is there a way for me to test it?
My understanding is that the fuel is the back line and the air is in front, nearest the burn chamber. Maybe that is how fuel made it backwards into the filter? Seems like you said your was hooked up the other way. Just took mine apart. Dry rotted lines for air and fuel. 3 year old heater. What a load of crap chinese rubber hoses are.
Chargèro I just bought one online today, I hope they sell all the parts for it, do you have a link for the parts or is it in the manual, I have a wood furnace but it takes forever to heat my pole barn so I'm going to use this while making a fire and get it up to temp then kill the fuel heater.
Yes look in the large booklet that came with the unit you will see the exploded view isometric drawing of the unit and a parts list. I just called the company and they sent me the parts free. I suggest you do the same and keep an impeller assembly and filter on hand as spares as you will need them eventually.
Chargèro I got it today and it has all the part numbers in the manual, I ordered it online from lowes 2 days ago and got it today free delivery by FedEx, then put it together in 10 min and fired it up and heated my 32x50 pole barn 15 to 55 degrees in 20 min
Air pump to cause a venturian effect to pull the fuel through the nozzle. Fairly simple design, sharing a lot in common with oil boilers and heaters for homes.
