The 8.5-inch GM 10-bolt rear on '73-77 GM intermediate A-bodies is relatively strong and worth keeping. We show you how to upgrade the OEM two-piece bearings and seals with one-piece Timken units as part of a rear disc brake upgrade.
The Bearings that they replaced the old ones with are offset bearings, which means that they are going to ride on the axle shaft in a different place, so that it does not continue to score the shaft and wear through. I replaced the bearings in my 96 s10 blazer not long ago and needed to use these type. It saves you a little money cause the axle shafts ( at least for my blazer ) cost around 200 .00 each. Nice video, very informative. I copied and paste this because vidio failed to mention this important detail, other wise great work and it answers some of my questions.
Thanks so much for explaining that. At the shop today I took an axle out of a lemo town car and they discontinued the axles so we installed these hoping that it would fix the issue of the axle being worn down 1/32 where the bearing rides. Knowing this gives me peace of mind.
I just got new axles for my 95 Blazer at $200 for both from Summit, drop shipped direct from Richmond/Excel: The axles came with bearings, seals, and studs. Yeah, they're not Buffalos: I'll keep the old ones as spares to use with these repair bearings if I ever need to change them out again.
The Bearings that they replaced the old ones with are offset bearings, which means that they are going to ride on the axle shaft in a different place, so that it does not continue to score the shaft and wear through. I replaced the bearings in my 96 s10 blazer not long ago and needed to use these type. It saves you a little money cause the axle shafts ( at least for my blazer ) cost around 200 .00 each. Nice video, very informative.
So glad I found this! Our 2002 Chev Tahoe axle bearing chewed up the axle just like yours galled and I got a National bearing p/n RP-513067 to repair it. I was not aware there were 2 sizes of axle! What diameter am I looking for, and will my bearing still work on the old axle? Thanks!
I see these for Ford 8.8s as well. the bearing only uses the grease that came with it, and hopefully enough or you have to wash it out and put in all the same type of grease. These must be for people who want to get a few more miles out of their axle before having to replace it.. as I cannot see this design going 100k without that grease failing and needing a repack which would be impossible to do.. and on the Ford I was working on, with their emergency shoes in middle, would be tough to get C-clips back on with the extra piece of bearing riding out of housing..
On these GM 10 bolt C lock axle , is there movement slight movement in and out on the hub , I'm rebuilding a Camaro in the UK , most people over here no nothing about them so I'm stuck for info , the hub does not move left or right up or down but , you can feel slight movement on the hubs in and out , Question is that right for one of these Axles .
No. Do not use a conical race driver tool on an axle bearing: You'll be hammering on the bearing cylinders. Use the old bearing, or anything else that will engage the outer cage as a punch and hammer on it. I just did a GM 10 bolt 7.625" yesterday with a 52mm alternator power pulley I had lying around: I can smack it in the center with a big enough hammer and spread the force/pressure to opposing sides of the bearing keeping it straight with the housing. In the past, I've used punches and hit on opposing sides consecutively first, then at whatever high spot I have until it bottoms out.
With the repair bearing being smaller and not able to take oil with the inboard seal, whats the long term performance vs the original bearing and seal?
say where does that bearing ride on the axle if the axle has that worn spot. can you show where that new style bearing rides on the old shaft? it looks like it rides a bit further out in the axle seal area and the bearing has seals at both ends but if there is a seal at the inside how does the lube get to the bearing then. thanks
2002 Chev Tahoe axle housing cracked when seal failed. Big deal? Axle is fine.also, my repair bearing is 1.613 inner diameter, so what size axle should I put it onto? Thanks! Great video, btw.
Yeud Siegal by putting the bearing in the freezer. The bearing actually gets smaller. If you heat the housing.....it gets larger and expands. Making it easier to install the bearing
1559 tv bearing on e bay $13 shipped... remove cheap packing grease with WD 40 and repack the bearing with REAL US LUCAS GREEN OR RED GREASE. KEEP DIFFERENTIAL FULL FULL FULL of clean oil as that is what lubes and cools teh wheel bearings
same bearing for many axles... ford 9" too. 12 bolt... at least they standardized the axle bearing... and the pinion bearings too? 1559 tv bearing on e bay $12 get rid of the packing grease in them with WD 40 and then replace the grease with REAL US LUCAS RED OR GREEN GREASE.
all well and good but you didnt show trying to put the c clips on with that bearing/seal from timken. the bearing is sticking out 3/16 of an inc and wont let you push the ales far enough to install the clips. wonder how many guys have called you names by this point.....
Now for the truth: - Slide hammer does not work in real life. Bearing is in far too tight to shift with a slide hammer. - Rare that auto parts stores rent tools any more. I could not find any. - Old seal sat flush with end. New seal/bearing combo sits proud of end by exactly 0.200 inch. - Special bearing driver tool not needed. 2x4 wood on its flat and tap it in with a large hammer. Place the bearing in the freezer few hours before to shrink it slightly. - New seal/bearing combo has an o ring on the outside. This needs to be lubed prior install to avoid tearing it. - SKF R1559.
Thanks for the video. But there was no mention of greasing them and that they are sealed on both ends so that they are not lubed by the fluid in the rear end. How do these repair bearings hold up over time? I prefer permanent repairs. As I just buy a new axle and install new OEM bearing. Only my right side axle is worn, after 36 years in my S10, and likely from overloading with 3500 lbs in the bed one too many times. Do these need to be greased every xxxxx miles? Do they have the same load capacity of original bearing? I have no experience with them myself. I've seen negative feedback on the bearing listings where they've failed quickly. I'm assuming they fail due to inexperienced driveway mechanics failing to grease them, or damaging them during installation.
weight set, the bar end housing is almost perfect like the one shown. just cut down and grind a bit till it's right. or use a large socket that fits just the edge of the new bearing.
So, ya tossed the "GALLED" axle back in, with NO treatment. Is the new bearing surface supposed to be wide enough to bridge the gap, is that the Unsaid point of it, besides it has a built in seal?
I know this is a year late, but hopefully you'll see. The upgraded design moves the bearing surface out on the axle shaft to an unused part of the hardened section. The new design also supports the axle shaft slightly better with the bearing move outward.
Yeud Siegal you never lube any bearings on the outside. Wheel bearings, cam bearings, or any other bearing. You run the risk of the bearing spinning inside the housing and ruining the part. All bearings are supposed to be put in dry.
1559 tv bearing on e bay $13 without seal... with seal $20. i like the stand alone seal as if it goes bad, can pop it out and replace it with new seal and not have to take the bearing out. but... if the seal goes bad it is cuz the bearing is prolly going bad from LACK OF ENUF OIL IN THE DIFFERENTIAL that lubricates the bearing and the bearing fails. the grease in the bearing is packing grease to keep it from rusting in transit. cheap grease. clean it out wiht WD 40 and put REAL US LUCAS RED OR GREEN GREASE in the bearing and on the axle shaft. KEEP REA:R DIFFERENTIAL FULLLLL OF GEAR OIL as it lubes and cools the wheel bearings.
