Lmao were you fuckin around or just mowing with it? If a belt broke during regular use that doesn't warrant an ass whoopin, but if you were fuckin around being stupid......yup
Thank you so much for the video. Saved me a lot of money to get a pulley replaced and getting the drive belts changed. Gonna cost me 400 for the service. Thank you very much again Sir 🙏🙏
great video to get me through the basics. My troy built is a super bronco and there were just a few differences compared to your video. for those that have a super bronco, the rear variable speed pulley has 3 bolts that hold the assembly in place. the bolts are located outside the frame by the rear tire. just loosen all 3 and it allows the belt to slip into the pulley. also the idler pulley has no spring and need to be unbolted and the whole pulley and guide come off. The last difference is there are 3 small bolts with guides that are bolted in the under carriage that help guide the drive belt. those also have to be removed to facilitate feeding the belt between the floor of the frame and the pulleys. You can unbolt them from under the tractor through holes. they are where the drive belt is located. thanks for the video, very helpful. Belt change out went as planned.
Thanks for posting, the three bolts are all the same size on the drivers side rear. This does let you cock the pulleys making it easy to slip the belt on between the frame. Do not remove them, just loosen them all a little bit at a time. The other issue that I had to work around was getting the belt past the guard on these pulleys--you have to get it around the back and then PULL it through (towards the front of the mower).
Much obliged for the tutorial, sir. Being a weekend warrior when it comes to DIY repairs, I normally don't comment, but this video was extremely helpful. First cut of the year and the mower drive quit. Purchased the bronco last year (a 2008). The upper belt disintegrated. Lower belt was in poor condition. Got them both replaced in 24 hrs. Thank you brother!! God bless.
I enjoyed the video. Gave me good starting point. Due to the body seam being too big I had to remove the pulley above the trans because there was not enough clearance to remove or replace the lower trans belt. Also because of a belt keeper on the small pulley that the tension spring attaches to I had to loosen that pulley from below to obtain clearance to remove upper trans belt. My mower is exactly like the one in the video and even has the Lowes sticker on it, so there must be a bit of variances in the body when built.
Yes they are built on an assembly line and sometimes they make the parts fit or it could be a slight difference from year to year. Thank you for watching.
Thanks for the video; it is very helpful. One of my friends moved up to a zero turn mower and orphaned the machine I now have along with a bad drive belt and an engine oil leak so now I have a project...lol!
Your welcome, I really try to show the easiest way of doing this stuff for people just like you or people that don't have alot of wrenching experience.
Just bought a used Bronco, my arthritis decided 3 acres was no longer a thing. That critter has been one thing after another. Blades, battery and now it sent me to this video. Y'all definitely have my subscription cause it looks like I will be a frequent viewer. Best of all, I just bought a really nice rear wheel drive self propelled. Need em both, the lawn grows like mad here in southwest Florida!
Very helpful video. If you don’t have an impact tool handy to pull the engine pulley, simply work the starter gear up by hand until it engages with the flywheel. Then place a penny or other soft metal between the gears of the starter and flywheel to hold the engine from turning over while you loosen/tighten that 5/8” pulley bolt.
It's rare to find a video that relates to exactly what your doing/working on thanks. My lower drive belt broke and my 20volt impact didn't have the torque to get it off. Also was not sure whether it was right loose or left loose threads.
I was going to pay a mobile repair guy to do the job for me. He cut off the belt, left and is trying to tell me "he can't get the right belt". I got one on Amazon in 2 days. Called him up and said "I have the belt", let me know when you want to install it. "I hear crickets" (he's ghosting me now). I guess he gave up. So, watching your video, I know what I need to do if he keeps blowing me off. The biggest problem is doing it on the ground so I think I'll tilt one side up and put it on blocks to repair. Thanks for making the job seem clear.
You brought back memories we had 6 acers of grass and part of it was an apple orchard. This was a well known practice in our world. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us, anyone with tools and ambition should breeze through this after watching your detailed video. Great job brother!!!
The verabel speed pulley is what when out on Ratchet, it kept getting stuck and finally ate the belt. Pretty pricey for what it is. But I found a used one for $10🤞🙂. Good video buddy 👍
On my TB Super-Bronco: I had to loosen up the 3 bolts to the variable speed pulley assembly where the upper & lower belts run to get enough room to get the belts on / off. Also, instead of trying to take the heavy duty spring off (and back on) of the idler pulley for the upper belt, I rigged up a binder strap around the back of the tractor and compressed the spring that way to finish up the upper belt install. There's also a belt retainer screw & bushing that had to come off to get the old belt off, new one back on. It's accessible through a hole strategically drilled on the bottom 'skid' plate. Putting the mower deck back on was painful too until I shimmed up the front about 2", then was able to get the rear pins installed. All in all, what a pain to replace these belts, but I'm appreciative of this video, thanks.
My Bronco is the same with the belt guard on the variable speed pulley , & the pully for the clutch assembly, This is the closest and best video. I wanted to refresh my memory on the belt route at the clutch, been a week waiting on a pulley
My transmission variable speed pulley hangs up and throws the belt. Fast fix WD 40 on the pulley shaft. Good video on the operation of the drive system belts. I have the same mower since 2004. Just got new pinion and bushing for the sloppy steering. Over all it's a very good 21hp mower. Thanks for the education on this fine mower.
Thanks for the vid,couldn"t figure out how the main drive belt was routed around those 2 idler pulleys( you showed it perfect).My bronco is a 2009,looks just like that one.I can change that small top drive belt without removing that top pulley.Maybe I got lucky.
My Troy Bilt Bronco (2005) doesn't really require removing the rear pulley. It's not in the owners manual, but there are a couple of bolts on the rear left frame: loosening one or two of them (I don't recall the specifics) allows enough slack to install the belt without having to use an impact wrench to remove the pulley.
I watched the video of you putting the 2 drive belts on the troy built bronco riding mower what are the 2 lengths of the belts you replaced Thank Yoi for your help Lacy
Thank you Lacy for watching the video. I'm sorry but I don't remember what the belt length were..it's been a couple of years but if I remember there should be a sticker on the tractor that gives the part numbers.
Thank you. I have to do this exact belt change and you explained it very well. The only difference in my mower is the tensioner in the middle above the deck on mine has a bracket over it in my way. I will just have to remove that and put it back. I sub'd as well. thanks
Hello, this is a very educational video. I just bought a Troy Built Bronco. 20 hp courage, 42" cut. Garage kept. Very nice mower. But it seems like it is going faster in reverse than in forward drive. I was thinking of starting with the drive belt. Would really appreciate any insight on this issue.
Just replaced one on my 2004 Troy Bilt 809Z garden tractor with flat idlers. I took the body off because there is a nut under the body to get to, way easier to get to other pulleys. Borrow an impact wrench for the main drive shaft(PTO) usually 5/8. You may have to use PB blaster or similar and very soft tapping with a hammer on a piece of wood on the PTO spindle(if you have electric PTO) and drive pulley. Make sure you have manual with diagrams.
First and Foremost EXCELLENT Step By Step How To Video! Can really see the effort you made get every camera angle for step of the way! Second, that mower is in great shape for the age...just like you 🤣
Great video and much appreciated! After replacement of the upper and lower drive belt the tractor with power at idle, the tractor creeps ahead and brake will not stop the tractor. I have to shift it into neutral. Looks like other people have had the issue. I will remove the upper belt and lube the tensioner arm attachment point. Is this what you recommend? Thanks!
The belt will stretch over time yes. Check the variable speed pully to make sure it moves freely up and down and also that it doesn't have groves worn into it.
@@PullerbearEd I bought them new, so i wouldn't have to work on em. WRONG ! There just as bad as a old one. Cheaper to, can get new engines or rebuilt ones. cheers buddy
It's been a couple years since I've worked on one of those and I don't have one available to get pictures of. If you look around there should be some rub marks where they hook to. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
Very awesome glad to see it is just like how I’ve done it once before on my 2006 Husskee 25 hp i’m looking for helpful information on getting tie rods when I go in reverse both of mine front tires bow in.
I'm surprised the earthquake xt 3/8 impact did that i have it and mine struggles on 7/8th nuts and bolts all the time which is why I switched to milwaukee because using the 1/2 or 3/4 earthquake xt sometimes isn't practical and the milwaukee have several speeds good work brother
@@PullerbearEd thats interesting my 3/8 earthquake xt dosen't have 2 speeds its only got one speed and forward or reverse looks just likes yours in the video
I'm sorry I don't have that information. It has been over 3 years since I had this one in my shop. I think there is a sticker somewhere on it that has that information
I got a new Craftsman T 140 and the dam drive belt keeps jumping off. EVERY THING IS NEW. So i just park it. Would you? Or any body know by chance know what the problem might be? I kinda think the idler pull bracket is bent. LOOK LIKE THE ONLY THING THAT IT COULD BE I have people saying there done the same thing. I just told them! I parked the dam thing! Fixing to use it for parts for my pony
I've had other people tell me they had the same issue also when they used aftermarket belts. The aftermarket belts just don't fit right or it may be a belt guard that isn't in just the right spot.
@@PullerbearEd Thanks. Every thing is the same new stuff. the day i bought it. i only mowed with it 2 X. I'am just going to put it back on. Jack it up and see what going on.
@@PullerbearEd 1 person said to check the transmission mounts > Way to test it was? Take the battery out put into gear. Move it back and forth. If the transmission move up and down> Its the transmission mount that is broke ~ That could be it to! But its the drive belt that keeps coming off
@@PullerbearEd I Agree it is. 👍👍Just trying to fix my problems, and help others with the same problems. Craftsman and Troy bult Tect don't know what going on. Cheers buddy
How long a belt did you put on there? The part number on my hood is 954-0467 and it’s supposed to be 90.8 inches according to Troy built website however, my belt is way too long it’s not tight and I don’t know what size to put on there.
Honestly I don't remember. It's been a few years since I did it. I want to say I used the part number from under the hood. Sorry I couldn't be more help.
Sure would be nice if we had a repairman or woman that made house calls on these mowers. This is my mowers issue but not something I have the capability to do. Thanks for the instructions
Liz I'm sure if you check on FB market place there is someone in your area that does this kind of repair. There are lots and lots of us home shop people that do this as side work.
Have the same mower like the one there that u showed bit mine doesn’t have the spring on the tensioner pulley my guess it never had one or at least that I know of any ideals???
i have the same mower, my question is there some kind of spring system or something that goes to gas pedal? cut the mower sharp an the back tire hit the bumper of my truck an lost all the play in gas pedal, if you could please help, thank you
Would a chewed up worn out drive belt cause this same mower to move even after releasing the pedal? I can stop mine with the brake in neutral but in forward or reverse it just keeps going, even with the brake applied.
Question for you, I have a Troy Bilt Bronco auto bought 2018 had to replace drive belt and once done I tested it put it in forward and it just took off put it into neutral and it still wanted to go. What's your feedback on something like this?
Belt may be shorter than original keeping it engaged? I had pulley on side, (variable speed?), which was not secured tightly to frame in back which caused similar issue. Loose or missing bolt if I remember correctly.
I can’t get the bolt from the spindle/drive pulley from under the motor off. Even with my impact. It’s just a small 1/4” drive but it should be enough. Any suggestions?? I came to your tube to see if anyone had this problem and I haven’t seen any
The 1/4 impact may not have enough striking force to break it loose. If you have a 1/2in breaker bar try putting that on it and shocking loose with a heavy hammer, I have had to do this a few times to get it broke free.
I replaced the belts on my Troy Bilt after paying a small engine shop $150 and a few months later discovering they had replaced only the short belt; the other was in dreadful shape; after doing the replacement myself I realized why they only pretended to replace the long belt: it is a PITA.
hey there @ about 11:58 you moved that idler pulley arm i think its called isnt there suppose to be a spring attached to it and then to the frame? Mine is missing wondering if you can confirm that there is suppose to be a spring there. thanks
@@PullerbearEd If you have a video or photo showing where that spring goes that would be great I even took it to a lawn mower repair shop and they couldnt figure out where the spring attaches.
Ed im having the same issues what size belt/ part number did you grab? I hot a 90.9 inch belt and I'm having troubles with it any help/advice would be appreciated
I don't have the exact size/number at the moment but I've went to using the OEM belts on these tractors because some of the aftermarket ones are not running ture. Sorry I can't be more help.
I knew this one was different than my year model because you can actually get a socket on that nut on the top of that top pulley. Engineers keep using less common sense every year.
the most difficult aspect of this repair is , snaking the belt over and under the steering bracket ..don't let Ed fool you , he employs a wire leader to pull the belt through the steering bracket .
I dont believe I did on this tractor but I also had it up on a rack so it was easy for me to get my hands in there. Thank you for giving that helpful trick and thank you for watching.
Awesome video, thank you. Is there an adjustment somewhere? When I release the throttle or clutch, it still wants to move a little bit like it’s still slightly engaged. Thanks.
Check the variable speed pully in the back to make sure it is fully traveling. I've seen them get a little stuck and it will make the tractor "cheap ".
Sometimes there is a sticker on the bottom side of the footrest, I'll try and find it on the internet and post a picture of it on my community tad. I might take a couple of days so please be patient.
Putting the new belt on the back pulley (about 10:50) was not quite so simple on my Bronco. I have bruises on both of my old arms but the pulley was just too close to the chassis to get the belt on.. I did find a simple way, but no one on any RU-vid video explained this solution. So if you have problems like I had just contact me and I will be glad to share the solution.
I have a troybilt horse. The drive belt broke, a stick got in there. I can't get the fan under the battery loose. Everything turns. What can I do to lock the fan?
Unless the fan is broken you shouldn't have to remove it I believe. If it is broken and needs replaced some models have a hole in the hub you can stick a punch or screwdriver in to lock it in place.
I'm sorry I don't remember right off hand. It was a customer's tractor. But I believe there is a listing for them under the hood or seat. I do have a manual for it on my shop computer and I will look them up tomorrow. Thank you for watching.
@@PullerbearEd I just found them. All 3 belts with part numbers, and length and width. Thank you. I will be coming back to this vid when it comes time to install the drive belt.
@@PullerbearEd , I put the new belts on. Runs like a champ. I have an odd issue though. The mower moves slowly, without touching the gas. Like its stuck on cruise control.Any suggestions?
NEED HELP ASAP!!!!!i changed the drive belt on my craftsman t 1300 lawn tractor/troy built. NOW WHEN I PUT IT IN FORWARD, THE MOWER MOVES WITHOUT pressing the gas petal. ANY IDEA WHAT I DID WRONG? any help would be great, thanks
I'm not really sure if you tractor has a standard transmission or avaliable speed. Check the tension on the drive belt if it is too tight it can't slip when in neutral.
I have a variable speed.a gas petal on the Right side.and a brake on the left.is it best to change the upper and lower belts at the same time? And where do you suggest I get the belts from? I've used Sunbelt and rotary belts. Think these belts are too small.Any info would be great.thanks again
Question, I just followed your video instructions. At first the long drive belt worked beautifully. Now, it was found to be smoking. What could be the issue? He does and has for years have problems keeping it in neutral when idling. Could that be an issue when he is running the engine stopped with the park brake engaged?
I honestly don't remember what it is. I do know I got the belt from my local dealer and it was an OEM belt because some of the aftermarket ones do not fit correctly.
Does anyone know if there is an adjustment after replacing the upper drive belt? I did replace both belts with OEM belts. But, when I depress the pedal fully forward its just doesnt go as fast as it use to. Also with that is seems Im depressing the pedal much further than previously.
I'm having the same issues. Replaced the upper belt with an oem part #754-0468, now I depress the pedal its very slow and if I press all the way the belt pops off. Maybe the belt is too small?
