Love all you professionals that help us do our own repairs on our homes. Thank you! My children growing up always called their mother Fix it Chick! I am now off to do this project! Please Toilet Gods Bless my work!
Valarie McKenzie Good luck on your project! We have more tips on our weekly podcast itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/fix-it-home-improvement/id880903087?mt=2
Thank you for this video. A lot of these flush valve kits come with a plastic tool that will fit the over the nut holding the flush valve to the bottom of the tank as well.
Thanks. I went to replace my fill valve just to discover this part was completely corroded as well. The rubber just disintegrated and the bolts were just a rusty clump of metal. Time to run down to the hardware store lol. Thanks for making it quick and easy for us DIYers.
Hey, YOU said 15-20m.😫 I say, more like 4 hours, including 3 trips to Lowe's for the right tool. That one didn't work for me, but I finally found one that did. I needed one that expanded at least 4 in. Your instructions were most helpful, once I got the right tool.😂 I feel very empowered. And now my mom doesn't have to call me every time she needs to flush.😁 Thank you!
Great video - Thanks! I was preparing to remove the toilet tank to change the flush valve. But a quick re-placement of the little fill hose eliminated the siphoning which was the real cause of my "leaking" toilet. So, you saved me a lot of bothersome work!
I really don’t know if I’m stupid ,inexperienced or just missing some obvious route that’s staring me in the face. I been trying to remove this damn mounting but for 3 days . I finally made it to the store yesterday and bought that wrench , got it home ....and it’s a 1/4 in too small . This nut has made me question my manhood over the last couple days ...I bought a hacksaw. And I’m cutting the SOB off . Just wanted to say thanks for the video . It’s very helpful , but I’m just gonna murder this mounting nut now.
Your videos are very helpful, thank you. I'm a diy-er, this is my first "plumbing" job. At first I thought the leak was from the bolt washers going bad, then taking the tank off, noticed all rubber washers and valve covers where leaking. You video was easy to follow and organized. Took me a lot longer, because I got the wrong part. additional question... while I have the toilet apart, should I go ahead and replace the wax ring at the base, or not worry for now.
Hi, if you don't have a problem, I would base it on the age of the toilet and home. In older homes, the bolts may be rusted in place or just spin when trying to take them off, so you will have to cut them free. You also might run into a cracked or broken flange, which will take some time to repair. If it is a newer home, replacing the toilet gasket is an easy project. I like the waxless gaskets like Sani-Seal. They are almost goof proof compared to a wax ring. Here is a link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-x2ZXo9k26s4.html. We have more tips in our home improvement book amzn.com/B01MRGO8C5.
Gentlemen, it was much more work than I thought. First one of the two bolts that hold the tank to the bowl was rusted (previous owner put a steel nut on the brass screw), so I had to cut the screw off. That was a good 45 minutes with a hand saw. The new flush valve didn't work with the old tube from the fill valve, so off to the hardware store and had to buy 10' of tubing for the 8" I needed. So I put everything together and a hour later, the water for the toilet ran. The new flush valve didn't solve it. So I took it apart after deciding the only thing left was to tighten the flush valve for a better seal. Of course I broke the old stop valve to the fill valve tube. One of those old metal ones. So now I had to fight that which was a bear to get the compression ring (olive) off. Should have bought the removal tool I think. This turned into two days of getting parts and probably $60 of tools and parts to solve about a tank of wasted water a day. The good news is nothing leaked.
Had a really bad gasket between tank and bowl, so no wonder it was leaking. That thing was brittle and cracked. It was also lopsided in placement, so badly distorted too. I put all new components in because all gaskets and rubber washers were also brittle. Tested it and leak was as bad as ever. I took it off again and went back to Home Depot and got the thicker gasket that fits like the one in the video. This time I used the nut on the bottom of tank. I like that better because I could use a stubby screwdriver, and it gave me a better feel on tightening the washer down--just enough for a snug fit. The advantage of using the nut on bottom of tank is that now I didn't need to use a long screwdriver when I tightened the nut on the bottom. The bolt was already locked in place, which also made it easier to thread the nut on. This time I took more care to be sure the tank was level and centered, and measured both ends from the wall so everything was straight. Because I had used the nut on bottom of tank, and didn't need to use the long screwdriver, I seemed to have a better feel for tightening both sides evenly. It didn't take much tightening. I will put some white silicone grease on the bottom nut and washer. Now I think it would have been a good idea to use this grease on all of the rubber gaskets and washers. It's the same stuff I use every year to condition the rubber seals on my water control device at my wetland restoration.
obstacles i encountered: screws were old and corroded making it difficult to get them out. the old gasket didnt fit. besides that it was fairly easy. thanks for the vid, sir. on a scale from 1 - 10, only 3 expletives were heard by my neighbors. good luck and happy flushing.
Let me know how it goes. Make sure to check the size. There are now 2 inch, 3 inch and 4 inch flush valves! Check the ID of the flush valve. We have more tips on our weekly podcast castbox.fm/u/6389499.
Successfully changed the flush valve, the only obstacle that i faced was the donut design, bought a wrong type of donut, but i still managed to complete it. haha Glad to come across your video.
Excellent video...though I would say it will take longer than the 15-20 minutes for a newbie, suggested--especially if you need to cut off the tank bolts
Just did this replacement with the exact same flush valve. Now I'm getting a slow drip from the tank onto the floor. I'm guessing it's not sealing with the lock nut gasket to the bowl. Is there a fix for this? Maybe a need a larger gasket then the one in the package?
Hi, could be one of the washers on the bolts or the gasket under the flush valve. There are a couple shapes to the flush valve gasket, if it is the same type, you may need to have someone push down on the tank while you tighten it. Don't get too aggressive, you can crack the tank.
You're welcome. We have more home improvement tips on our weekly podcast, Fix It Home Improvement. You can subscribe on your favorite podcast app. www.stitcher.com/podcast/fix-it-home-improvement-5/fix-it-home-improvement
My toilet started to fill automatically just for a second every 10 mins. or so, so I assumed the rubber flapper was worn out. I bought a new one and as I was putting it on, the white over-flow tube just cracked right off the base. I don't even remember really touching it. Do you think it could have had a crack in it already and was leaking there ? I am just learning to fix the plumbing after the big bill I got from the last plumber that came to the house ... I must conquer it myself ! This looks a little challenging but I am going to try it. Do you have any ideas on how I can use my toilet until I can get to work on this ... I turned water off already.
Hi, If there is not a crack at the base where the flap is, you can get a cork stopper at the hardware store and plug the overflow. The toilet will still flush , but you don't have the safety of the overflow tube. If you have any questions, just drop me a line.
Not sure if you still run this channel, but I have a question about removing the nut of the flush valve. I got the tank off and was going to use my large pliers to remove the nut under the gasket but when I turn the nut the entire flush valve inside turns with it. I tried to hold the tube from the inside and gave it too much force it broke off. Now I have a broken flush valve and seemingly no way to remove the nut even if I try to use two pairs of pliers to counter turn. It doesn't unscrew, more like it just spins in the hole of the tank. Do you recommend pulling apart?
Hi, there are thinner toilet gaskets or gaskets with a recessed area so the nut goes inside the recessed area so the tank sets flush. As long as the connection is water tight and the tank doesn't wobble, it will work fine. Don't overtighten the bolts, you can crack the tank or bowl. Check out more home improvement tips in our e-books www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B2KW1FQ9?notRedirectToSDP=1&.
For the flapper you are demonstrating with, I believe you said it was a Keeney Brand, how does one take just the flapper off? I have this same assembly in my toilet and I would like to try to just replace the flapper first before attempting to replace the whole assembly. Thank you.
***** Hi, depending on the style of flap, most just pull off two tabs on the overflow tube. If you are having a hard time, take a picture and email me at fixitpodcast@gmail.com. Bring it to the hardware store. There is no universal size anymore. We have more tips on our weekly podcast itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/fix-it-home-improvement/id880903087?mt=2
I have a perplexing issue. I suddenly started getting a leak every time I flushed. I attempted to replace the gasket between tank and bowl but still getting the same leak. I have tried two different gaskets and I continue to get a massive leak every time I flush. I can't seem to get it to seal between the tank and bowl. I'm planning on buying a new flush valve to see if that does the trick, but I am really perplexed.
Hi, yes there are kits for 2, 3 and 4 inch flush valves. We have more home improvement tips on our weekly podcast itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/fix-it-home-improvement/id880903087?mt=2
Thank you, about to do this. Also, that looked like black mold or mildew when you removed the tank. I'd suggest cleaning that off with bleach while you have the opportunity, as mold can cause health issues. It probably developed from the leak that you fixed, so likely would not return.
@@FIXITHomeImprovementChannel thanks for the reply but I'm asking if I should replace the flush valve with an original kohler flush valve or just replace it with a korky or fluidmaster flush valve. What would you recommend?
Hi, you can use an adjustable pliers, an adjustable lock nut wrench or a spud wrench for 2 inch flush valves. You will need a large adjustable pliers for a 3 inch flush valve. We have more home improvement tips on our weekly podcast castbox.fm/u/6389499.
I rented a pipe wrench at Ace Hardware today for $5 to fit a 3-inch flush valve lock nut. I took the replacement lock nut in with me so they knew exactly what I needed. This video was a great help.
Hi, for a 3 inch flush valve you will need a large adjustable pliers. Some hardware stores have an inexpensive line of tools. I have a 16 inch adjustable pliers that works.
I am losing water after replacing the fill valve. Very strange as the fill valve was leaking but I just had to hand tighten the supply water nut a few times. Everything is DRY. But yet I have a slow leak the water level drops a inch every 30 minutes. I can't hear any dripping or water leaking noise anywhere and I have felt the whole bottom of the tank for any sign of a leak and all is dry! Where is my water going? It did not start doing this until I replaced the fill valve as it was dripping. Is it possible to leak from the flapper a inch every 30 minutes with no dripping sound?
***** Hi, if you don't see or feel any water outside the tank or bowl, it has to be slipping past the flap and going into the bowl. I would change the flap and clean the flush valve where it meets the flap. Let me know if that solves it.
FIX IT Home Improvement Channel Thanks for the fast response. I will get a new flapper. But after seeing this video I started thinking maybe it is the donut gasket under the tank that you showed in this video? Thanks
Only one thing: You want to make sure the top of your fill tube is below the hole for your handle, not just the top of your tank, or you will have a leak out the handle hole! The handles are not water tight! Ask me how I know.😅
Hi, I got this at a local hardware store. I forget the brand. I haven't seen it at the home centers. Fluidmaster and Korky have highly rated flush valves.
Hi. I just replaced all the parts inside my tank and did a dye test and found water is getting into the bowl. I shut the water off overnight to see if the water level stopped at the flapper valve but found that the tank was bone dry in the morning. Pulled the flapper assembly off and reassembled but it is still doing the same thing. The porcelain looks fine where the flapper valve is seated and the 2” nut is secure. The floor is dry so it has to be the assembly but strangely it is doing it to both toilets that I just rebuilt. Any suggestions? Thank you!
Hi, when you say bone dry, was there no water below the opening of the flush valve? There should be some water at the bottom of the tank, a half an inch or more under the opening of the flush valve if it is just the flap leaking.
Yes the tank had almost zero water in it. I didn't even have to use a sponge to mop up the standing water. Thanks for trying to work through this with me.
Hi, depending on the style, the seal on the bottom of the tank may need to be tightened, sounds like water might be leaking through that into the bowl. Or it could be a combination of the flap and the tank seal.
Do I not need a doughnut gasket that has indentions for the nut? The old one that I put on came with a special doughnut that fits to the corners of the nut. But if I try putting a regular doughnut on it does not seat. Can you help me understand what I am doing wrong?
Hi, I like the spud washers with the indentations, they seem to fit better, but as long as it covers the nut, it will work. You are guiding the water straight down and the rubber will compress to keep it watertight. We have more tips on our weekly podcast castbox.fm/u/6389499.
Hello, yes I was raised on good tools. I watched my brother buy cheap ones and they would not work or break on him. The funny thing is, he never learned from those experiences. I like your channel. When I came across it I was looking to see if their was difference in Universal flush valve gaskets and Gerber's Brand. As turns out, their is and I did no know that. I have done general repair work for years and I learn something new frequently.
nope,,,,its your standard toilet from home depot,,im going to replace the whole flushing assembly,i have a korky universal complete kit coming in the mail,,so i think this will stop this problem
How tight should the flush valve nut be? "Don't overtighten" ok how far is too far? I hand tightened as far as I could but still getting the tank refilling every half hour because it's slowly leaking into the toilet.
i dont have a leak on the floor ,or anything,my problem is ,,after i flush ,i hear water flowing into the bottom of the toilet while the tank is filling,,so when its filling into the skinny tube i hear it going thru the below part of the toilet and in basement,,i hear a flow of water even after the toilet has been flushed,,so is it the tank to bowl gasket which is the culprit i think?
Hi, I think this one was a Keeney. If you go to your local hardware store they will have it, or be able to order it for you. This style fits a 2 inch opening, but has a larger opening for the flap to create a better flush.
Hi, if it's leaking between the tank and the bowl, it is the washers for the bolts or the washer under the flush valve. What is the make and model of the toilet?
I had the tool he used, but the nut wasn't hexagonal, so the tool would not grip it. I used a hand saw for PVC, pliers, and screwdriver to cut and pry it out.
Hi, there are a few names for it, a spud wrench, a lock nut wrench or adjustable lock nut wrench, the key is checking the outside diameter of the nut if it is a hex nut, or does it have tabs, rather than smooth sides and match the tool to your specific flush valve. Also check the nut on the new flush valve, it may be different.
Hi, some people don't like the cup or tower style and want a flap, some of the old metal flush valves start to corrode, sometimes the seat can have a burr or groove in it from draining water over decades. We have more tips in our home improvement book amzn.com/B01MRGO8C5.
+jacob Gilkey Hi, for the bolts on the tank, just unscrew the nuts on the bottom of the tank. If they are rusted in place, you can hold the bolt with a locking pliers to keep it from spinning. If you still can't unscrew the nuts, use a hack saw or hack saw blade to cut off the nuts. Let me know if that helps.
The only flaw of his instructions is that It woiuld be helpful to **point out at the begining to check if the flush valve's 'over flow tube' is NOT too high** so the tank lid can fit over it. This way it can be adjusted (cut down) before you attach everything and avoid having to remove it again if it is too high.
