This is a great step by step on how to do this job. One thing to add, the split ring in the hub is very difficult to get out unless you have the proper tool. I have tried 3 different types of pliers and cannot get it out. Apparently Lisle makes a tool specifically for the job and the model is 38700 Spindle Snap Ring Plier. I live about 45 minutes from the nearest town, and wish I would have known this before I started.
Take your rotor and put it on the hub backwards with 3 or 4 nuts installed far enough the threads protrude through each nut. Grab rotor and begin sliding it back and forth and this creates a slide hammer and gets the hub assembly of relatively easy. 😎
First of all thx for your video i replaced my 2012 f250 FX4 driver side wheel bearing assembly today! Got a few comments #1 if your gonna change your wheel bearing assembly spray all nuts and behind rotor with PB blaster several days before your repair and it will be a breeze! Didn’t need a sledgehammer at all, everything slid right off.#2 you don’t have to remove the driver tie rod i did the whole replacement without removing it.good luck
Doing this job today. Got many miles to drive in my '99 F350 Powerstroke coming up and this is a task between me and camping in Yellowstone. Watching this video is step one to a hundred count exercise but I feel pretty good about this job now. Thanks for posting this great content!
I watch a lot of your videos. This guy is a riot! Very good video. So funny when he talks about banging his fingers in the snap ring pliers, and when he gets the stubborn snap ring out his excitement how that never happens that easy. When you do this type of stuff all day, you can totally relate and laugh
I wish I seen this video the first time I did a wheel bearing on my 2011 f350. So much easier to push the bearing off the knuckle by turning the wheel. Thourghl video thank you!
i like this guy. a couple of small metal wedges to hammer in between the hub and knuckle work well when you have a bad angle of attack with the backing plate
The best and most detailed video I have seen. Great instructional video and explanation I have seen for Ford F 250's!! Do a video on changing the transfer case:)))
Lisle 40100 is a great tool for breaking the hub loose. They also have a great tool designed specifically for the super duty spindle snap ring, 38700 is the part number.
these are those typical jobs where half way in your like well if i just remove the axle seal and the steering knuckle i can replace the upper and lower ball joints while im down here, 5 mins later since i have the axel out i guess i can replace the u joint to the axle hub. lol mechanic life =p
I’d take the tire off down close to the ground .. then raise the big ol fancy truck !! But that’s just me !! I got a 94.5 f250 .. I’m working on fixing it up .. and I’ll be keeping it thank you
You’re using copper anti seize. My buddy is a heavy equipment mechanic and he’s saying I should use nickel. Which one is better for this specific application?
To remove the bearing, could you use the steering pump to pull it off. Like the extension but in reverse? Tie a strap around the lungs, around the lift stand, and turn left? Ever try? Thanks,....great video BTW!!! I'm a do-it-yourself guy without your equipment. GOD BLESS and thank you for sharing!
Great video. What would cause the front brake rotor area to get to 550 degrees (other side 150 degrees) if the calipers, hoses, pad and rotors were replaced? Could the bearing cause this heat? 2011 Ford f250.
+Jordan Gonzales Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
I’ve watched multiple vids and am wondering if getting the snap ring out takes hours because I’ve been trying for the last 1 1/2 hours to get it out and it just won’t any suggestions?
Where can I get those snap ring pliers? And what length are they? I have to do my hub again but last time I could not get that snap ring off. Do you sell them? Thanks
The engineer at Ford that thought that snap ring was a good idea needs to be the one to deal with it every time a wheel bearing on every truck with that hub needs replaced. I've bought and broken 3 pairs of snap ring pliers trying to get that off and still no dice.
In my country these jobs on American trucks are extremely difficult due to lack of knowledge of the mechanics and lack of spare parts. there is an agency but the prices are exorbitant. desde costa rica saludos.
Awesome thorough video. much appreciated. this is same procedure if the truck has electric button flto engage 4 wheel drive and also had the manual lockouts correct. im going to do the work for a friend. his truck has a switch but also can be done manually.
Is there anyway that you could give me the name brand or part number of those C clip pliers you used to take that C clip from the inside of the hub out? It took me 2 freaking hours to install that clip, raaaaaaawwww!!!!! It came out easy but to install it, it took me FOREVER to reinstall it. I went through 3 different sets to install it and I finally had to grind the outer edges of one set and still gave me trouble to install it. I noticed that your set had factory permanent tips on them and the ones I was using I could take the tips off and install other tips on it. I noticed yours reached in the hub nicely but mine i had to grind some of the outer edges so I could reach in further in the hub. I now have to do the other hub so this is why I am asking ya for a name brand or part number from your pliers. Thank you for the video, it's the best video out there demonstrating how to remove the hub bearing on the Ford f250. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Tip from old timer.... Take the hub apart leave the rotor on. Remove outer brake pad reinstall caliper. Take off bearing nuts. Start and press brake hard. Use a clamp to push caliper back in.loosen bleeder first dont push the fluid back into the master. Slip the outerpad between the inner and the rotor start and press again till rotor is against the bracket. Now Remove bracket with caliper. I replace the rotor when doing wheel bearing so you don't have to separate them unless you reuse the rotor easy on the floor with blocks and hammer. The bearing has been pushed out on one side. Put a nut on one front stud halfway. Get a large punch that fits the nut good but goes into the stud. Place it like he used the socket with extention. Turn the wheel to drive the punch into the stud and push till nut bottoms. Remove nut. Prybar the last little bit. No hammering.
HELP, my snap ring pliers will not pull that little ring out. And I have tried several different pair. My husband can't get it out either, he is a cert mech but is used to working on older vehicles. Is there a trick to getting that ring off?
Not sure what year that truck is but it seems that the front wheel bearing hub assembly wears out way to fast on fords. They seriously need to redesign it and make it more durable
Torque spec for Wheel Hub Nut (from service manual Section 204-01BN): "Position the wheel bearing and wheel hub and install the 4 new nuts. Tighten to 180 Nm (133 lb-ft). "
Another trick to separate the bearing from the spindle I learned is: put the wheel on with a couple lug nuts, then hammer it like tripe H with a sledge hammer then that thing will go and not damage anything other than the tires feelings
2 things already- I've done 2 sets of these on a 99 diesel, and never needed to disconnect the steering linkage, so we'll see if it makes the job easier. The most important bolts that need penetrating spray, the 4 bolts that attach the wheel hub assembly, didn't get sprayed. And I don't agree with needing an alignment when swapping a wheel hub. I came here to see what impact he uses, because I can't remember if the last time I did mine, I just used my own strength w/ a breaker bar. I was much younger, so this time I want to use an impact, but I know there's not a ton of room back there. I guess I can crawl under my truck tomorrow and see. After a bit further in the video... I hate watching mechanics work like this. 2 more things: The rotor HAS to come off, so just take the damn thing off before you hit on the steering linkage with a hammer, to ensure you won't hit the rotor. Just wire up the steering arm. I noticed it not being done as soon as he went to remove the nut, then he says, "I'm not worried about wiring it up...; Oh wait, maybe I should wire it up anyway." Yeah, good idea so you don't bump into it and mess up the other tie rod end. Or stress that other end by letting it hang. See, this is the thing about letting people work on your shit: They may get the job done right, but who knows what OTHER stuff they fucked up in the process, that won't show up as a problem until many miles later, at which point you have no recourse. I would NOT want this guy working on my truck. Man, this dude! The snap ring: He says it's probably the hardest part of the job. Not even close, as long as you have snap ring pliers. The reason they include a new one, is you really should only bend that ring outward one time- the time you have to do so to install it. Otherwise, you could just re-use the old one. So what does he do? He bends the new one. So now that new one will have been bent more than necessary. He could've just as easily demonstrated how they work on the old one. Not a huge issue, but still. And the thing he DOESN'T mention about the snap ring- Make sure you have the correct tips installed (THERE'S a good place to use the new one), so they fit into the holes without any play, and make sure you have those tips FULLY inserted into the holes before you try to remove it. If you do those 2 things, that snap ring will pop out just as easily as it did, and the pliers will NOT slip off. And then the way he tore up the tab on that electrical connector. Nice job! All those connectors have a release clip that you have to raise up slightly, while at the same time depressing the locking tab, while at the same time pulling the connector apart. THAT is the hardest part, or one of the hardest parts of the job. The older the truck, the more brittle they can be. You gotta be very careful with them. Not a bad idea on using the truck's steering to break the hub free of the knuckle, but it goes to show that he took the tie rod end off too early ( I say it's not even necessary), but I could just see someone like this (based on the other dipshit moves he's made) banging the door against the lift when he gets in/out of the truck. A much better way is to use the rotor as a slide hammer, like mentioned below in another comment. I can't see beating on that hub with a hammer and transferring all those shocks into the needle bearings in the u-joints, and the other end of the axle shaft where it connects into the differential. Idk if it really matters, but that really made me cringe. I have always been able to separate them with a pry bar between the hub and the knuckle. Alright, I'm done picking his job apart. I'm sure he'll get it done ok in the end, but imo, he doesn't think things through well enough. I'm not watching the rest of this, this guy's a hack. But I will add something that he also didn't mention: When I did mine on my 99, I bought Timken parts. They are the SAME EXACT BEARING they produce for Motorcraft, but about half as expensive (you're paying for the name, in part.) But, even Timken can have issues. Rotate that bearing before you install it. Anything less than PERFECT feel, don't use it. I had one of my 2 that had a slight "bump" in the rotation, so I returned it. The replacement was perfect. It happens.
So. Does this part come with new studs? Good heck! I'm watching this on the clock so I can fix my work truck. Even getting paid for it your video is way too long.
@@1AAuto I was just getting ready to order, but the Q&A on the site states that the studs are not included. Emma F. Staff, and Adam Staff in 2 different responses.
Friendly tip, i couldnt get my rotor for the freakin life me, prayed to all the gods tried every method nothing, almost gave up, then i had one more idea, grabbed a 25lb weight put it up between the rotor and the brake caliper, its hard to explain but once you get it in position, youll know what to do, i used the 25lb weight solid 2-3 hits and the rotor popped off, no damage no nothin, the 25lb weight is one of the old small circular ones that resemble a discuss from track n field
I love this. I fought a rear disk on an F150 for hours, because the parking brake is a drum brake inside the rotor. With the pads fully retracted, The rotor was still hung on the worn lip. I finally wedged some type of pry bar behind it so the hammer blows wouldn't be taken up by the springs. The replacement went on with 2 drilled and tapped holes so I wouldn't have to fight that battle again.
