Mike, first of all, thank you so much for making and posting this video. You saved me the labor cost, and I learned a new skill. Retired mechanic here, so I really appreciate you sharing the repair procedure. Got her done today, and back in business. Also, just wanted to let you know that in your video where you are showing the first rivet to hit with a punch, I'm pretty sure you are showing the wrong rivet. It took me a few minutes to figure this out. The one you are going for is just a pivot point on the track, and not necessary for removal of the regulator. I removed the two rivets located on the window track, and the three in the door, and the regulator came out with no problem. Thought I would post this for everyone else just in case you might be scratching your head like I was trying to figure this out. :-) Once again, thanks for posting. I'm a new fan.
Retired shop / technology teacher 35 years, NIASE cert, USAF Electronics. Great Job. Your video was clear and concise. Loved the time lapse parts edited in. Mention eye protection is always a good thing. I used an old bath towel to capture the scrap drillings where they fall. Housekeeping of the metal shards is a given . And I did a good vac job of the inside of the door after the old assembly was out because the metal shards captured inside the door could fall out the drain holes. ☼
Excellent video. I have a regulator that has decided to tear apart. It's obstructed my ability to roll window up. I saw all the rivets and I don't own the tools to do the work of removal, but your video was exactly what I expect.
Excellent video, job took less than 2h. I could do it again in 45 min. Part works perfectly, very pleased. Someone else in the comments offered an important detail. You need to buy bolts and lock nuts, they are not supplied. I think it's 5 total but buy extra. I was able to get a box of M6 stainless steel bolts and matching lock nuts on Amazon. M6 happened to fit a 10mm socket making this uniform and easy. I added a dab of lock tite to the Ford OEM nuts that you DO reuse just to be certain nothing wiggles out. This company rocks.
@creepulkins Thanks for checking us out. We carry those regulators for Explorers for not to much more than what you had paid, ours are brand new with a 2 year warranty also. Available at 1aauto.com
Good video, however do not use a carpenters hammer use a ball pen for hitting center punches and drift punches, otherwise do this step by step and it works...I fixed my 1995 Ford Explorer by using this video. One more thing the motor and or regulator dose not come with hardware you will need 6 EA M6 bolts and nuts....
It shouldn't be to hard. There should be three screws that hold it in place. We carry new window motors for your Ford Explorer with free shipping in the lower 48 states, on our website 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
@notar1 Usually itmoves slow when the car is not on and normal when the car is running. Never heard of rain coming in to the equation. If it works at the correct speed some times then it should not need to be lubricated.
@TheShadowShow00 If the locks are not working either,check the wire harness that goes between the door and the body of the truck for frayed or broken wires. This happens quite often on numerous vehicles, and is a good starting point before diving in to far.
@creepulkins You would have find some bolts to connect the regulator to the door with. If it fails on you we carry brand new ones on our website 1aauto.com. Complete with a warranty and free shipping.
@Polarcupcheck Could be the motor or the switch. I don't recommend "bypassing" things Could short something and do more damage. I'd take the switch out and use a test light to see if it is OK.
You may want to check the wire harness between the drivers side door and body of your Ford Explorer for a possible broken or frayed wire. Hope this helps you out. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Allan Tinoco A1 Auto Parts My passenger/front window has a clicking/slipping movement that just started. Motor still works. I can lift it (with another person helping) into place and it holds. Is this an indicator that the whole regulator needs to be replaced?
David, mine started off like that until the point it broke off track. You should check to see if something is blocking the path of the window as in the rubber that surrounds it. The video provided by A1 auto is pretty much on point you just need to make sure you start as early as possible cause it does take some time. Good luck.
David, also, if the motor still works A1 auto just sells the bracket without the motor bit I just decided to buy the whole thing even though the motor on mine was still good.
what if you're replacing the regulator with a used window regulator.. The used one doesn't have the brace that connects to the window. what kind of bolts will you need to reconnect the bolts you knocked out to free the regulator from the window?
Big fan of the videos and a huge life saver! My window is not going up or down but the regulator is working fine. I took the door panel off and everything and when I use the window button the regulator moves up and down. The 2 metal clips that attach to the window are not attached to the window anymore. The same clips you put the new bolt in 7:38 - 7:43 of the video. is that silicon just holding the clips to the window? any recommendations on how to reconnect those clips to the window? Thank You
Usually on windows they use a special adhesive or glue to attach the window to the bracket. If you go to the dealer them may be able to get the adhesive for you. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Window on my explorer won't roll back up. It makes no noise. At one point it rolled down more but wouldn't rebound. It is basically the switch, right? If so, can I bypass the switch just to get it up?
i have the same truck and my window doesnt roll up when ever i press the button it sounds like it wants to roll but cant ....do i replace the regulator??? please help
ive done everything from shocks gaskets tune ups brakes on my Explorer... but anything with rivets i get suddenly lazy and don't wanna do it. i dunno for some reason this job looks hard to me.
Hey y’all! I have a 95 explorer with a missing rear driver side window. Do y’all have a video on how to replace the glass or could you offer some guidance? Thanks!
is there any way you can make a video showing how to replace a window motor on a 1994 ford explorer sport thats a two door one please and thank you if you do
+Izrael Labastida The window regulator will fail and the glass will either fall into the door or the motor will fail and the window will no longer move. Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
@@1AAuto thank you so much for replying me. I do appreciate it. I noticed on my windows they starting to go sideways like 10 degrees when I’m pulling down and get stuck on the middle. I was wondering if this was problem of the regulator.
My front passenger window is in the lowest down position and I can't get to the point where I can center punch and drill out the attachment point between the regulator and the window support bracket. Pretty sure motor is bad as I've connected the battery terminal directly to the 2 pin motor connector and nothing. Is there any way for me to raise the window? Or, is the only way is to knock out the rivets and remove the nuts holding the regulator and pushing the whole thing in like in the video? If yes, what do i do after that?
I need to do this repair (passenger door, '96). The only problem is that my motor is shot (which is why I'm doing the repair), so I can't move the regulator up/down to position the nuts/rivets in the holes/cutouts for easiest removal - the window is all the way down. I'm concerned especially about punching out that first rivet you did (on the bottom track); I can't see it or get to it... is it necessary to break the regulator there to get it out? I've seen a few other videos where they don't break it.
I have an explorer 92 and the window on the driver side have the option when you push the bottom down one time the windows come down automatically, but then one day didn't work, and now I have to push and hold the bottom so the windows can go down, any suggestions so I can fix this problems ?
Replaced motor and regulator on 96 Explorer but now window jumps track just before it reaches the top when I roll it up. Took apart passenger side to compare. I can't figure it out.
1992 Explorer 4WD 4DR - Eddie Bauer. The video helped out a lot. The 1A Auto front driver's regulator & motor was a perfect fit. Had some problems with the two rivets below the window but eventually drilled them out just fine. One "totally unexpected" problem I found was the south vertical rail to hold & guide the window when it goes down in the door... broke off and was laying at the bottom of the door cavity. I found it when I was cleaning out the rivet & drill tailings. IMO, this was causing premature wear on the regulator & motor as the south side of the window was unstable in its downward position. For the last year I have been hearing the window rattle when I shut the door with the window down. After spending 2 hours figuring out how it was supposed to be attached (two small rivets broke off the rail), then drilling holes & putting screws in the vertical guide to secure it to a bracket... everything else went as the video showed. So a relatively easy 30-45 minute job took me 3+ hours... BUT man does the window work great... smooth & quiet! Thanks!!
My pass front window is stuck rolled up. How do it get to the regulator while it’s stuck? Sounds to me like it’s hitting something when I try to roll it down and it doesn’t move. From the looks of the regulator it might be the gear not moving and wedges on something.
+Adam Averhart It could have a tangled cable but you should be able to take the door panel off and still access the bolts that hold the regulator up. Or it could be an issue with the motor which could make a grinding noise as well.
I'd like to know which wires need repair to allow my window to work with the driver door open. It works fine when closed but will not work when open. I've had it 5 years and it's always been that way.
Do you think it is my regulator that needs replacing? My front driver’s window is stuck all the way in the down position. When I hold the switch in either direction, I hear a little squeak-ish electric noise. I’ve tried lubricating with white lithium lubricant and no luck (that’s what auto shop did to fix it last time ~1 year ago). Won’t budge when I use force to push the window up. Do you think it’s worth opening things up to check for any broken/damaged wires before replacing the regulator? Really don’t want to fork out the ridiculous 300 or so bucks for this after I paid 200 last time and it’s already broken again. Thanks for your help in the video, and in advance if you reply here!!!
I also just noticed the regulator you sell doesn’t include the motor, I guess I’d have to make sure it’s not the motor that’s shot? Although I saw one of your comments saying if it’s the motor then I’d be able to push the window up... I don’t know.
You should wear EYE protection at 4:19 makes me very worried seeing those shavings flying everywhere and you don't have eye protection on yikes. Please consider this you've been doing this for a very long time, please protect yourself!
I'm finding this video to be very helpful, I just bought a new regulator for my truck. My question(s) to be clear, what size nuts and bolts do you use to replace all of the rivers. Another question I have is what would be a good glue, or epoxy to attack the holders for the window itself. The ones that attack to the regulator arm??
+Shawn Saaler Thank you for checking us out. The size bolts and nuts are dependent on the size drill used to remove the rivets. The glue or epoxy is a personal preference, but 3M has some really good products. 1aauto.com
Thank you for sharing this video. Because of your precise instructions I was able to change both the driver and passenger window mechanism on my Ford Explorer 1991.
I have a 1997 Ford Thunderbird LX 4.06L 2D Coupe. Is it possible to get the power window motor and regulator out without destroying them to clean and add lubrication ? Thanx in advance
For the plastic shield I use a moldable sticky gum.. Comes in a strip, cut off as much as needed, removed wax paper covering and shape to desired size.. Instantly bonds and can be removed if need be, stays pliable..
I was ready to tear my regulator from this same Explorer.. My window rolled up crooked. I thought it was the motor, turned out the only thing wrong with it was the window just separated from the inside window clamp. 6.50 cents later i fixed. Always start with the small things first. Rolls up like a champ.
I gotta change the regular on my 99 at some point. Thanks for this video, it’ll help. I was wondering does window switch panel unplug from the harness? The cover separated from the switch panel and I could see someone glued it together before
Thank you SO much for video. My 93 Explorer Sport windows are getting sluggish. I greased up all joints that I could and its working better, but the regulator needs to be replaced in both doors. Seeing this video makes doing the repair not so daunting. OH and that water shield looks a whole lot better than the ripped plastic sheet thats in my doors.
Disregard my below comment I watched the vid for a second time and saw where I can move the regulator by punching and drilling out the rivets on the outside of the door. My Bad guys sorry about that but in my defense I am clueless with doing these things. But now am learning and again the vid was helpful so thanks again for taking the time and showing the how 2's!
my dad and i have a 1993 ford explorer and the window motor doesn't work at all and is rolled up. with this being a problem how would you suggest going and getting the regulator out without the window falling and breaking?
Love your videos! I always check them out before attempting something new. Just little advise, sometimes it's kinda hard to hear Mike when he's working. Keep up the great work, and thanks for helping us " DO IT YOURSELFERS" !
Thanks a ton, 1A Auto. Saved half on your power window regulator and motor, watched your installation video and in about an hour my window was fixed. Thanks again.
I wish this is all that's wrong with mine... My window actually came out of those clips that hold it to the regulator so i will actually have to bend them back into place and use silicone.
I have a 99 windstar. the window is stuck all the way up. It is the motor that needs replacing. Do i have to take out the whole regulator to replace the motor? I am new to this. Your advice is appreciated. If so, how do I get the window down to detach it from the window?
The regulators went bad in both of the front doors of my '96 Explorer and the mechanic told me it would be around $600 to replace and install new regulators ($211 each...$85/hr labor). I bought t wo used regulator ($40 each) and was able to replace them by watching this video. Thanks, the instructions were excellent!!
The vehicle we have the window is basically just floating, I can push the window up or down with my hands. The motor inside is working, I can even see the part inside going up and down, it's just not raising or lowering the window.
Thanks a lot for these videos. But the problem with my window is that the two pieces that are attach to the window came off the window, and the track came off the regulator. any suggestions for the fix. If u understand what Im asking.
really important question..at 7:37 in this video, those clips? where do i find those to buy...im installing a new regulator and on the glass im using the old clips broke off..what are those callled and where can i get them
hi long since acquiring parts come with you are honest and have good parts, just one question for this video as I could say that the screws are to buy thanks
The first part drilled out, you start with "small" then 3/16 then 1/8. Did you mean 1/4 or was it 1/16 then 1/8? 1/4 looks rather large for that fitting.
This video is fantastic and it helped me and a buddy replace the regulator in a 96 Explorer. The problem I keep having is that the glass will not stay in the channels. I've used 2 different types of Loctite and an epoxy, and pinched the channels. Eventually, the window pops out of one or both of the channels. Any suggestions?
+Scott Munn We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
question?? i have a 2003 ford explore xlt and my radio and windows went out at the same time i checked the fuses and all were good what else can it be??? thanks!!
