@@pur3mind683 is that on your old intake? Im guessing you're talking about the intake tuning valve lever being disconnected. That wont damage your car but might throw a check engine light.
@@pur3mind683 so the arm will move under certain conditions. The engine computer is responsible to command it on and off. You can command it on and off by yourself if you have a high end scanner. If the arm is broken on your intake manifold, you could just replace the arm itself. they do sell it separately. here's a pictures. www.amazon.com/Intake-Manifold-55570283-2011-2018-Chevrolet/dp/B088ND7ZR3/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1RG409BXU1HLT&dchild=1&keywords=intake+tuning+valve+lever&qid=1627617251&sprefix=intake+tuning+%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-3
Thank you for your video! I did this today. It started but idles rough. Any suggestions on what to look for on what would cause this? Just hoping to keep it running but also realistic that it might be time to let it go.
Tough to say. Will need to look at scanner data to see what's wrong. If there's a flashing check engine light because of a misfire, could be ignition coil and spark plugs. You could have a clogged cat converter, bad oxygen sensor. Also make sure you connected all connectors.
@@OneTrickTech I truly appreciate the reply. Its misfiring. Flashing check engine light right away. All started with a P2076 code. The replaced intake linkage didn’t fix it. Car would run a few days and one day die 4x. I borrowed a OBD2 to test today. Love your videos.
Well. It started just fine this morning. Go figure. Codes I get now are P0031 and P0037 for both O2 sensors. It still hesitated a little after driving for a bit so maybe those are the causes of that. Your fix looks to have done the job for the P2076 so thank you! and on to the sensors 😳🙂
Glad to hear that. I think you can fix the performance issue just by replacing the first o2 sensor that's bad. Second one is only to monitor catalytic converter performance.
I already replaced the knock sensor on this car. If you're looking to replace it on your car, the procedure is very similar to this video but you don't have to remove the fuel rail or the throttle body. Just remove all the bolts holding the intake manifold and it will give you enough space to move it backwards and get to the sensor which in directly below the intake manifold. It's a E14 or E12 bolt holding it then just disconnect the sensor. Hope that helps!
@@OneTrickTech that's exactly what it does, it used to have a Cam phaser rattle, but theve both been replaced along with the valve cover. Now its a whole different rattle, cold start only and goes completely away when the engine is warm.
Hard to call, its a ~600$ part. You will need to isolate the noise to see exactly where is coming from. Try listening with a stethoscope kit like this one (Lisle 52750 Stethoscope Kit). It will help a lot to isolate the noise.
will it sound like tapping noise? cause i already adjust my lifter but still have tapping noise at cold start. it almost dissapeared after the engine warm up
@@MasQueAutosRD No. That's an evap related code. You will need to smoke test the evap system to find the leak. There is a purge valve on the intake manifold which can cause that code.
@@MasQueAutosRD yea like I said, you will need to smoke test it to isolate the leak. You will probably need to go to a shop for that. If there's no drivability issues then it wont be so urgent to fix.