How To Replace Left and Right CV Axle on Chevy/GMC/Cadillac Trucks 2007 - 2013 GMT-900 

you prolly dont care at all but does any of you know a method to get back into an instagram account..? I was stupid lost my account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me

@Roberto Legend instablaster ;)

@Hugh Amari i really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and Im trying it out now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

@Hugh Amari It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy! Thanks so much, you really help me out!

@Roberto Legend glad I could help =)

😬😬 3 hours for a cv axle🤦‍♂️ i did it in 20min.. just loosen sway bar link pull the bolt out to give clearance on top.. dont even have to take the wheel off🤣🤣🤣

For the axle is in the way of one of the lower strut bolts someone put it in from the top, and then Putting it back in was hard also

You have to remove the start or upper ball joint just removing the sway bar link does not allow u to take axle out

If you stack your leveling kits on these truck removing the struts can be a job but you can do it the way way he did the only thing I would have done different than this guy was I would have removed the sway bar end links

Yes it makes a clunking when you take off from a dead stop and it will sometimes "thud" when the truck down shifts. Then when turning a chatter sound. I have an Escalade EXT and going to do this today. Both sides but the driver side is the bad one

Forged most likely, depends on year and off-road or not.

I get it, but that's extremely selfish Its also one Reason alot if young people are not pursuing the trades. The experienced ones have to teach them things you won't find I tradeschool

That's good to know as I'm planning on doing the axle on my Yukon

Tim Adams what did the size end up being for the nut?

15 MM

Oooops, sorry! Make that 25 MM.

Geeeze, I mean 35MM, and checked with my new 35MM "Axle Nut Socket".

Finally have the Escalade on jacks and the front left wheel off. The old nut is also 35MM (good news). But (bad news) the CV axle was not the problem. I can't see anything wrong with the old axle and with no load/weight on the suspension it is not making any noises when rotated. I could have sworn the boot was torn and there was grease leaking out but no evidence of that now. I did pressure wash it off a while ago. (did a good job of it too) BUT, there is about 15 degrees of rotational slop and there is a definite clunk noise inside the differential/transfer case at the end of CW or CCW rotation, not present on the right side axle. There was no play in the hub with the tire still on when checking the left side. When checking the right side hub it does have a little bit of play so the bearings may be getting bad there but that has nothing to do with the howling and grinding that comes from the left front wheel during acceleration. Other Escalade owners: Everything looks about the same as shown in the video except there is an attachment on the upper control arm to a servo on the chassis above for your stabilitrak system. Disconnect this before dropping the control arm or damage will result to the servo or linkage. Whatever is worn out in the transfer case is beyond my shade tree abilities. I suggest replacing the sway links and bushings while you have things up in the air and apart this far. ($40.00 Moog links @ O'Reilleys, much less from Rock Auto) Am doing the brakes on since it's this far along and they're due.

Only if the other side needs to be changed, but one side needing changed doesn't mean you have to change the other. My driver side just went out on my truck 2 days ago. I'll be changing BOTH only because I don't want to do it 2 different times(like couple months or yr frm now), because I'm over 200K miles and fully expect the other side to go soon. But, no, you don't have to change both at the same time. Other videos showed that you 'have' to remove the strut/shock assembly, so I went ahead and bought new ones, wish I had seen this video earlier so that I could've seen it done without removing the strut/shock. Oh, may as well go ahead and do it. lol. Thanks for the video AutoRex. Good Stuff

where Is your video?

I don’t make vids. After tire is off, undo spline nut and bolts on differential. The joint will then just slip right out👊

He changed it in 16 will videoing and explaining

Impact with tuning fork pry bar.

BFH to the spindle.

Put the nut on a few thread and hit it with a hammer if that dont work hit it with your wifes Purse

Just take the strut off and that’s all you need to remove. Axle will come out then

@@davidstavely7272 Yeah, that's what I did.

Shocks and struts are added work! Unnecessary this helps a lot to skip that added step just use force!

@@DiamondDaveCH44 doing one this weekend ive wandered if i needed to remove either myself

David Chapel it’s way less work and bullshit on a rusty truck. Remove or loosen the strut and not mess with anything else the axle still comes right out

actually, it's 35mm. 100%

Yea I’ve never seen one that wasent 35mm no idea what these videos are talking about

but then you need an alignment done after messing with the strut...

@@desperate4daylight 🤣🤣 why would you need an alignment after

Raymond Harris Ram has the issues to..cv axles go bad all the time

@@rahrah8076 Well damn... Never had IFS issues on the F250 but I'm not going back to 6L lol

Raymond Harris every make and model has a share of common problems..hard to choose what to get anymore lol

My passenger side....

156k miles on my '07 Sierra Denali and just replaced them when I leveled it - rusty;as hell and cheap on Amazon so wth. But not every truck has that issue "always".

How do you replace the inner ujonit

not WHAT with alignment?

Nazi Grammar pipe it down

u r stupid. If it come out without removing - why to do more job and possibly damage/broke something else?

I like this lol

Facts 15min a side just loosen sway bar link and take the top bushing and nut off sway bar link and resr is cake dont even need to take the wheel off

Thx God I came across your post because I was gonna take my truck to my mechanic after watching the other vids pulling out ball joints, calipers, bar links, etc. I did the swap today and it took all of 35 min for removal n installation.

What’s the trick for attaching the bottom of strut back to control arm (lower A arm) when there is a leveling block installed?

@@tombrown1032 what’s a leveling block? If you loosen up the three top nuts in the engine bay then it should give you enough wiggle room. I also used a jack to compress the strut to align perfectly on the lower arm

So mess with 4 bolts instead of one 😂

ScarabChris can you replace just the boot?

@@carlostodaygomez7278 Honestly I don't know. But I'm pretty sure you would have to remove the CV axle to do that but if you're going to go that into it you might as well replace the entire assembly. I got my axles on Amazon. I bought re-manufactured OEM axles by "Detroit Axle" so no cheap China knock off. I bought them in 2017 but just got around to replacing them. I think I paid about $100 each for them. I liked that the box came from Detroit with "made in USA" stamped on it..

Thank you

@@ScarabChris Do you think you could link these Detroit cv axles you got? I had also seen that some people have had some complications with aftermarket axles with being too short in length... Did you have this issue? or know how to get them to fit properly?