I watched several videos on replacing rear brakes. This was by far the most detail one. I set laptop on workbench and followed each step. Brake job was a success. I'm very grateful would not have been able to do job without the video.
I'm a 29 yr old single woman who does not have a man or $300 to have someone else change my brakes. Your video helped me see that I can do it myself. I'll hit you up with an update on how it goes. Thank you for the indepth step by step commentary and the side notes.
Update, 6 years later. I actually did change my own brakes and I found out that many auto parts stores rent you any tools you need, but are too expensive to buy for one time use. I did a wonderful complete break job on my 2002 Mustang and it still serves me today. Once again, thank you. 😊
Noah Jansen, thanks a lot. Thats what I’m going for. Even experienced mechanics have to start somewhere and have someone explain things to them. I’m just paying it forward to those that taught me. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
Great video! I just bought an 01 GT and would have struggled without your help! In 35 years of doing my own brakes, this is the first time I've had to wind in a piston.
I'm glad this was uploaded 7 years ago. I've tackled front brakes before but rear brakes have always left me discouraged. Thank you for this very informative video. I have a 99' Mustang GT and a 00' Mustang V6--both are due for rear brakes and I will use this video.
You sir are a life saver. I just bought a 02 Mustang. I just thought, o c clamp...compress piston....nope! I was getting frustrated. The I watched your video. Never use I twisting tool like that. Thank you!
Yeah, the caliper piston threw me for a loop the first time I had to play with one. No RU-vid back then, of course. I'm glad my video helped you out. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it. Enjoy your new (to you) ride.
Excellent attention to detail. I had already finished my front brakes and started on my rear brakes when I found your video. It absolutely cut my time in half because of your thorough presentation. Nice job! I subscribed!
Best video I've seen regarding pad and rotor replacement. Most people show the front brake job which is easier since no special tool is needed to depress the piston and no parking brake cable to deal with. Thanks for posting.
This is by far the best video on brake pad replacement that I have seen. Pet Rock Garage - you rock! Great job, getting ready to do my 98 Cobra. Thanks.
Thanks a lot. I appreciate it. It's never too late. IMO, the age of a video shouldn't really matter as long as the information in it is still useful to someone. My videos aren't current events or pop culture style videos that go stale in a few days/weeks. So as long as there is still a Mustang/Durango/Harley on the road, my videos should still be helpful to someone. Thanks again.
Great video! Step by step, in-depth and so easy to follow. Just did my '94 Mustang- first brake job ever at 62 yrs old. Had your video on the laptop beside me throughout, stopping, starting, backing up to watch again...lol. Thank You!!
I thought I knew plenty about changing brakes. This guy did a great job at explaining every little detail especially the important things to know!! Thanks!
I am appreciative of your knowledge and experience. This video was very instrumental in me completing my first rear disc brake job. The section about how to put the clips on the pads was a real time saver! Thank you.
This video was a lifesaver. Replaced the rear pads and rotors on my '96 GT today for the first time and quickly realized it wasn't the same as the fronts and I was in over my head. Not sure I would have figured out how to get that piston to collapse without seeing this. I only wish I had watched it first so I didn't have to make multiple trips to the auto store to get the special tool I needed. Thanks for making this!
This was one of the best step by step videos with lots of great little tips for a successful job. I'll look for more from Pet Rock's Garage. Thank you!
I have to say this is by far one of the best videos and explanation of lots of things taken by granted in other videos, you helped me tremendously! Thanks so much...good work keep it up!
Your video really saved me man. I did one side to my '94 Mustang GT and it just did not feel right. After watching your video I took it all apart again and started over. It went smoothly and like clockwork as I followed it just as you laid it out. I did not know how to use the caliper tool or the flat side of the locator pins or how to remove the brake cable. You clearly showed all of that and now I feel confident that it was done correctly. Thanks!
Want to thank you just recently picked up an 02 ford and decided to work on it a majority myself. Your videos have helped me out a lot. So once again thanks
Excellent tutorial! I replaced brakes and rotors on my daughters Mustang today. The job went very smoothly thanks to your tutorial. I highly recomment the Caliper tool kit as my rotors were hard to compress. Thank you!
What a great video! Great camera work and info detail! I especially appreciated the information about hygroscopic property of brake fluid -- new vocab word! I knew about the concept (generally) but never understood exactly; thank you! Also, I appreciate how often you took the time to explain several details about orientation of components, grease contexts, and particular visual indicators to look for -- all of which are potential points of failure that I have self inflicted over the years. I also appreciated the text overlays throughout the video. Thanks for the parts list in the "Published On... \ Show More..." section above. This may be the best brake-job video that I have ever watched. Thank you for your time and attention to detail!
Great job with this video! I've done several brake jobs before, but watched this video for reference before swapping the rear brakes on a 2000 Mustang GT convertible. This is an excellent tutorial, and I appreciate all of the details and explanations put into each step while keeping it simple enough to fit into a video that clocks in under 30 minutes. You've earned another like subscriber!
wow, thanks! I was using that brake caliper piston tool for years without using that stabilizing/pressure backing plate. Me and my knuckles really appreciate this vid!
Hi. Pet Rock's Garage is now one of my Go-To channels for auto repair vids / tips. You cover all the important factors to a successful brake job. I just KNEW there was an easier way to deal with that hand brake cable on my '99 Mustang. Also, I struggled trying to turn in the piston using needle nose pliers, too. I will "borrow' a piston kit from Advance Auto today, I like the Text inserts you use for clarity (... and, perhaps, your wife upgraded from her former boyfriend, too), I am now a subscriber. Thanks for the high quality videos.
Thanx for that video,, I just acquired a 98GT, not bad, but sat up for 2 years.. Just for a challenge, I decided to do the brakes myself, Hell, I had never even seen brakes before,,, followed your vid step by step,, thank goodness for laptops! lol.. Success !
thank you man, one day i saw a mechanic having a hard time with this breakes. he couldn`t do it when i was watching him and said he was going to do it later so i didn`t get to see if he was able to do it. you made it look so simple ajajaj, great video.
thank you this video helped a LOT i had to walk and go get the tool once i had the tool i finished the job quickly . the pliers is a massive waste of time just rent the tool guys. on 8/10/21 the cost of the kit for screw in caliper pistons was 63 dollars. if i had the kit before hand i would of got both sides done in maybe an hour- 1-1/2 hours. great video btw
Yeah, the tool is a must IMO and makes the job sooo much easier. They are also available for rent from Autozone & Orielly and likely other auto parts stores, where you get your money back when you return the tool.
Hey, thanks for this detailed video. I was having a hell of a time getting my caliper installed properly and for the life of me I couldn't figure out why. I could get one bolt threaded but not the other. Then I found your video and and the 11 minute mark you talked about aligning the piston slots with the tabs on the pads and BAM! Done. THANK YOU.
What an amazing video. Thanks so much is was truly a helpful tutorial. I thought I was doing things right before but watching this I was missing a few important steps. Truly worth watching and very helpful.
+Dave Darnbigg, thanks a lot. I appreciate it. I also watch other mechanics videos, even for jobs I already know how to do, and often find a little nugget of info or technique that I didn't know before. As the old saying goes, if you aren't learning you are falling behind.
Thanks for the great video instructions. Just completed 4 wheel pads and drilled and slotted rotors on my 2000 GT conv. Rear was a little tougher than the front. Rock Auto Power Stop K1302 $340.02 with tax and shipping.
Thank you for the very informative video. I purchased a rear brake hardware kit and was not sure how to put the clips on properly. My rear calipers were also missing that large clip that installs into the top of the caliper. This video answered all my questions. Great job!
just wanted to say I have 04 GT Mustang I was thinking about doing the brakes myself with this tutorial it just made it that much easier thank you very much for the info you'll be my go-to information next time I do work on the car
So I thought I knew how to replace brake pads. After clamping the piston so many different ways and it not compressing at all, here i am. Now I know how to do it, and I learned a few other things too. This video is so well-made and informative I found myself discovering the subscribe button. Thanks so much! And for that other video where you fixed the window. (And for other helpful videos yet to be watched)
+Jonathan Bryant, thanks a lot… But don’t feel bad. I made the same mistake the first time I encountered a screw-style caliper. I’m glad my videos have helped you out.
Great video bud. Im not new to breaks, but I like to find videos/tutorials just incase something wierd pops up. You did a great job of explaining. Will make my 98 mustange coupes breaks much easier next week. Thank you!
Thanks a lot. The way I see it when working on cars, even older ones, if you aren't learning you are going to get left behind. There is always room to grow even if you've done a job 1000 times, you might just learn something new. Thanks for watching & commenting. I appreciate it.
Super vidéo! Je viens d’acheter une 98 GT et j’aurais eu du mal sans votre aide! En 35 ans de freins, c’est la première fois que je dois enrouler un piston.
Google traduction à la rescousse ! Merci beaucoup. Je vous en suis reconnaissant. Cette voiture a été la première sur laquelle j'ai travaillé avec une torsion de piston. J'ai failli casser le piston en essayant de le compresser avec une pince en C avant de comprendre que c'était une torsion. C'était bien avant que RU-vid n'existe.
Great video man I'm gonna be doing my brakes with new rotors here shortly and I've been watching your video over and over to get myself ready I even bought the wind tool of eBay for $17 Thanks again for all the information on the job bro Mike D
Very informational and helpful. Glad i watched youre video befor doing so to know i can't use a c clamp for the back breaks and have to rent the tool. good job!
Same vehicle here, have to replace the rear rotors and brake pads (even though the left ones are good, the right ones just wore out like no tomorrow due to a lop sided brake rotor wear pattern. Had a bit of an accident where my aluminum rims were bent out of alignment for the rear when I slid on ice, causing the rim to "imprint" or transfer it's "pattern" to the brake rotor, unevenly wearing it. Hence, the lopsided nature) when I have time because the mechanics I went to last time for a brake change took 6 hrs. Mind you, this was one set of pads (two) at the time, where there were 6 employees on premises, two cars (two customers; myself and another) and the other customer was just there for a tire change. Tire, not tires. and I was trying to take care of some errands that day and had work, the six employees were just fucking around and being slow and there isn't another mechanic I can trust other than my father who doesn't mess around. Between taking my chances with another mechanic who might do the same and my father, definitely my father. Also I love this video and it's an awesome video because I didn't know how to do a brake job and now I do. Thank you so much man. :)
Wow, that must have been one heck of an accident. Hopefully the only injuries were to your pride & car. Re mechanic, if you weren't happy with their service then I would go somewhere else or DIY it like you did here. Good luck.
@@petrocksgarage Thankfully it was only a 35mph hit and not any faster than that. Got the brakes replaced saturday with the rotors and my goodness i feel relieved to know that i have good brakes and that i can stop safely now. Thank you man. :-)
Thank you so much dude this has to be one of the best videos I've ever seen on this subject I'm restoring an old GT Mustang this video has been invaluable to me thank you again
+tony oliver, RU-vid wouldn’t let me reply directly to you until now. Maybe something changed in your settings? Anyway, I’ll copy my original reply here now: Thanks a lot for watching. I'm glad you learned something from it and it helped you out. Thats why I make these video's. To help people. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it.
Nice vid. I’m changing my rear brakes on my Mustang for the first time and this really helps. Suggestion though - don’t use anti-seize or any other lubricant on a torque spec bolt, unless that bolt application specifically requires a lubricant as specified by the manufacturer. Lubricants radically alter the amount of torque applied by as much as 50%. Bolts will stretch and crack under that kind of pressure or the mounts may crack, which you may not notice when tightening, and you could have a catastrophic failure later. It’s better to deal with the rust by cleaning the bolt and mating surface or replacing the bolt entirely. A little rust really isn’t an issue and can generally be ignored. Thanks again and I appreciate the video.
Good luck on your brakes. You don't have to use anti-seize if you don't want to. Its up to you. But 50% more torque with the use of anti-seize sounds overly high. The studies I've read (granted was a few years ago and I'm going from memory) was only 20-30% which is in the noise for most torque specs (below 40ft/lbs). I'm not saying you should use anti-seize on everything (eg cylinder head bolts), but on brake bolts it doesn't hurt since they are in contact with the elements more than most any moving parts on a vehicle. While a little rust is not really a problem, a lot of rust definitely can be. Especially if you're like most people and don't have a torch or an impact gun (air or electric).
Bought mine used and the rotors have been a worry of mine. They were kinda thin when i got the car but they have worked good since i replaced breaks. Time to replace once more so i decided to just go the extra mile and replace as much as my budget will allow. Including rotors, ceramic pads(tired of break dust on my wheels), caliper guide pins and boots. Would replace all 4 calipers total but upon inspection last time i replaced breaks everything was A Okay.
Sounds like you have a good plan. If the calipers aren't seized there is no reason to replace them. Replacing the pins & boots is a good idea though. Good luck.
Thanks for the detailed video. I came here looking for the clip at 20 min. My Mustang never had the rears done yet and did not come with this from Ford. I was like what the hell is going on with this clip. Thanks for also explaining why I need to install it!
just to let ppl know how i break them in(taught by Gpa). he says to roll up to 30mph and gradually come to stop. then go 40mph and do the same, and then to 50mph 3 times. finally go 30 and perform a faster stop, but not full pedal abrupt stop or anything. then they should be good2go! great video!
Good tip. The key is to not come to a complete stop when doing this otherwise you run the risk of warping your rotors. This procedure will seriously heat up the brake rotors. So you need to make sure they cool down gradually and that you don't come to a complete stop. For most people though, just putting the pads on and going for a mild drive will do the job nicely. Good luck.
Good stuff! Very informative and well narrated. I would lose the closed captioning, it gets in the way. I wouldn't use so much brake grease either, but you nailed this one dude. Thanks!
Closed captions display the words that I am saying in the video. There visibility is controlled by the settings on your browser, not my videos. Click on the CC in the video player area and click disable to turn off closed captions.
Thanks, i wondered what that caliper tool was for had it for years. Its no so bad if you do smaller turns. Had to give my brake a tap to get it going in, wouldnt go no matter how many times i turned it, one tap and it started to contract.
Yeah, the cube tool does work and has for decades. My dad had one and showed me how to use it when I was little. I have one now too and used it for a number of years on the car in the video. But I alway found it very frustrating. Had to replace the piston in one of the calipers because the cube slipped so many times that it stripped the little notches in the piston so the cube wouldn't hold anymore. Not to mention the busted knuckles from it slipping. Have a couple scars to commemorate some of them too. Then I found the tool I show in the video and have not looked back. It's sooo much easier & faster, IMO. I highly recommend going out and renting one the next time you are playing with the rear calipers. You'll be pleasantly surprised.
Very nice informative video and step by step tutorial. I just want to add that you don’t need too much grease on those calipers clips where the springs ride on. I’ve wrenched for 8 years and i had an 03 GT for 8 years. If you want to try some good brakes with good bite try out the Centric brand. Semi-Metallics are what mustangs use for pad material and they’re noisy even when hot. Semi’s brake better when hot but suck when cold. Ceramics are quieter and have good initial bite but are kinda dusty. If you want even more stopping power, try Stoptech (Centrics high performance brake line) I did a front cobra caliper upgrade to my GT and man the bigger rotor( x-drilled & slotted) and calipers, stainless steel brake hoses, Stoptech pads and it felt like I had 4-piston Brembos. Anyways, awesome vid man! Lots of tips and tricks and definitely the correct advice and torque specs haha. Nice! Keep it up man!
Awesome video. I screwed around with a big c clamp for 30 minutes before I came in to see instruction like this. Glad I did not break anything! Why make the notches vertical in the piston? Won't it just turn and push into the brake pad? Nothing to line up on the brake pad. Only part I wondered.
+Dave Wilcox, yeah, this style caliper confused me my first time too. Your brake pad should have little tabs on them that line up with the notches in the piston. If yours do not, double check that you have the correct pads for your vehicle. You don't want the piston turning when you press the brake pedal.
