How to Replace the PCV Diaphragm on a Volvo T5 [Money Saving Way] 

How to replace the positive crankcase ventilation, or for short pcv diaphragm on your Volvo T5 engine. The car I’m working with is a 2007 Volvo C30 T5, the T5 engine depending on the model does come with a couple different styles of PCV systems. This engine has the heated PCV system and it comes as an assembly with the oil filter housing which is about $300 from the dealer. The other style is basically a plastic box which includes an oil trap instead and is about a quarter of the price. There is only one source on Ebay who makes a new diaphragm, everyone else only sells a filter housing replacement. The new diaphragm was about $10 and the fastest shipping method was about $50 to Canada. #volvo #volvot5 #volvoc30
Eventually with heat and age, the rubber diaphragm will crack and break. When this happens, the car will make a howling sounds, almost as if you have a faulty idler pulley bearing. However the sound only happens at idle. When this happens, you can drive the vehicle but not for long. It’ll cause excessive vacuum in the engine, if driving the vehicle for an extended period of time, it will cause damage to your camshaft and crankshaft seals. Another way to tell if the diaphragm has failed is by pulling up the dipstick or open the oil fill cap in the valve cover. You’ll notice a strong vacuum. When those areas are open, the sound will also disappear. I have also found the sound is much quieter when the engine is colder vs when it’s up to operating temperature. The turbo will also not stay in boost and if driven long enough, a check engine light will be triggered which maybe a P2187 which means the engine is running lean at idle.
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-standard screwdriver
-OBD2 code reader
-new diaphragm
-socket set with ratchet
-flashlight
Procedure:
-ensure your engine is cold when working on it
-start by removing the air duct going to the air box by removing the two 8mm bolts on the radiator support
-pull up the first portion of the duct to unclip it and then remove the lower portion
-there is another round cap that needs to be removed
-this is removing by using a small pry tool or a standard screwdriver can also work, either push the tool between the cap and the plastic edging or pull the cap up by the little notch in the plastic edging
-once that cap is popped up, you can work it around to unclip it from the backside
-the diaphragm will most likely come out with the cap and there will be a spring left inside the assembly
-then remove the spring
-clean the cap and inside of the pcv valve area to remove any oil residue or build up
-pull the diaphragm from the cap and now you can see the split which was causing the issues
-ensure the spring is clean before reinstalling
-install the spring
-the position of the new diaphragm, the black plastic ring faces down and the spring sits inside the recessed area
-getting this back together can be quite tricky
-considering it’s such a tight space with minimal room to work and you can’t get a clear view
-you may need to feel around to some extent, from what I’ve found, install the spring and diaphragm together, the spring must be compressed and then release it when it’s above the hole on it’s alignment tab
-you can push the diaphragm down with a long screwdriver from the top between the intake runners, then slowly work the cap into place
-try to snap the cap on the rear first, then finish up with the wrong
-the long screwdriver can be used for added leverage to pop the cap down as it’s a tight connection
-starting the engine to verify the repair is successful
-as a final step, the check engine light should be cleared
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