Great video! I’ve changed 3 turbos on my truck and it makes your life a lot easier if you take the front wheel off and the inner fender liner to get to the turbo . And you can jack up the engine to gain clearance between the turbo and frame . But I was un able to install the turbo with the studs in the turbo.. had to put them in after the turbo was in place . So I made sure that the studs ran freely into the turbo prier to installation . None the less .. this job is a chore !! Just trying to help the guys who watch ! 👍
just replaced my 6.7 HE300VG turbo yesterday 1/27/23 easiest way is to go through passager side wheel well. remove the passager side battery box & coolant tank' you can just unscrew the 3 screws for coolant tank then push the tank upwards out the way. unbolt the 3 nuts on hanger for the flex-downpipe ( underneath the truck) it'll give you all the play you need to separate the turbo elbow from the flex-downpipe. take screw driver or anytype pry tool to separate downpipe from turbo elbow, wiggle the turbo out by pressing down then roll it out through the wheel well' it's a little fight but it'll come out. ps, the reason a section of the flex-downpipe is braided steel is to be able to bend itself down out of the way of turbo elbow when removing or installing' so therefore you don't have to remove motor mounts or try pulling the turbo from top of engine, just press downwards on turbo and wiggle to free the studs from the exhaust-manifold mount.
I might need your knowledge on the weekend boss..... my new turbo and egr cooler delete kit is showing up... might as well get rig of the cooler while I'm under there..... right?
@@picnic9185 if you're deleting the truck idk that process, but I do know you'll need to re-tune the truck with the correct equipment .. but'a yea you can take off the egr cooler while you take out the turbo, taking off the egr cooler is easy also.
I'm a big guy and my hand don't fit anywhere they need to go. I'm on day 2 and not sure if it will get done today. I've got the new turbo mounted and the exhaust, drain line and lower coolant line installed. Can I tell you I have never installed anything in my life that is such a PAIN IN THE A$$... I will sale my truck or pay good money if this ever happens again. For anyone thinking about doing this let someone else do it. My hands are cut up from the 29,432 zip-ties that are located in every spot you hand or arm needs to be. You are a better man than I am. If you were here in the lower states you would be seeing this at your door step.
The most frustrating part isn't getting the turbo in. It's reconnecting the lower coolant line. Why don't any of these "how to" videos show the hardest parts that we're looking for tips for?
@@jamestaylor-qb9wo Try a swivel on a long extension and go from the bottom. There’s a good amount of room you should have plenty of clearance to get those 2 bolts out. If you don’t have enough access you didn’t move the heat shield enough.
Getting the studs to line up and go through with the manifold isn’t easy, but there’s a trick. Put a post jack under the block right by the a/c compressor. And make sure you’re not on the timing cover. Raise the engine up just a 1/4 inch. Set the studs directly under the manifold and lower the engine onto the turbo. Then through the fender well you can push the turbo up with a pry bar and with your other hand start a nut.
I show you step by step what to do, but if I filmed the whole procedure the video would be three hours long. If you can’t figure out how to do it after watching this video I recommend taking it to someone more competent.
What kind of life/mileage should you expect to get on the stock holset turbo on the 6.7? My actuator just dumped at 205k miles and I’m wondering if a complete turbo is the way to go?
Hope yours went well. I just pulled my 15 6.7 Cummins turbo. It was chore. Now looking to buy a replacement and reinstall it. Also, I think I'll need to do something about the exhaust filter, it was full.
@@anythinganytimealways If you're talking about the flange it was easier than I thought. I was working on an 2008. I used an S shaped wrench I got from Harbor Freight to get it started. The real nightmare was installing the oil drain.
going ahead and taking of the exhaust manifold isn’t a bad idea. pretty simple and you don’t need to be cutting studs or anything like that. plus makes it easier to put the new one in.
Thanks for the video, lost my turbo the other day lucky we got it to the front of the house so tomorrow I'll try to tackle it, turbos are crazy money ,thanks again, keep up the great work
im looking at changing my turbo out on my 6.7L cummins. the turbo actuator seems to be going out since it starts running away everytime i start the truck. i usually have to cycle the ignition a couple times to get this issue to stop. my question is since my truck has a egr delete on it already will i need to re delete the egr with a new turbo?
Thanks for the great video. I just had a Dodge dealer replace the turbo on my 2010 6.7 Cummins. They said it will smoke real bad for a while. ??, is that normal.
I was recently working on my Dodge 08 3500 and removed the turbo line going from the turbo to the inner cooler. I noticed a few drops of oil inside the line. I could tell it was coming from the turbo. Is this something to be concerned about seeing that the truck has 190K miles. Is this normal or should I be concerned and replace the turbo?
Your video help out a lot, i got the the full turbo and actuator assemble… I rest the codes but still lost Communication -pending … Doni need to run the truck or there a different process after words
Hey brother. I'm sure this has already been asked and I'm missing it but any recommendations on what turbo to purchase? 130km on it and started throwing these codes yesterday so planning on tackling this on the weekend.
I have a 2015 2500 Cummins. I had the turbo replaced by the dealer about 10,000 miles ago at 90,000. I was just doing my first oil change since the turbo job and noticed the bottom of the oil pan is punched up as if someone tried to lift the engine with a jack under the oil pan. The only work I have had done on this truck is an actuator at around 50K and now the entire turbo at 90,000. I noticed you did not. I just don't know for sure that happened during the turbo work but I've always done my oil changes and I do not remember that pan being dented up. My first thought is the plug is not at the lowest point now and that drives me nuts because I want every drop out when I drain my oil. I'm sure I would have noticed this before in the last 10 oil changes. Hmm.
I have a 2021 Dodge Ram 3500 6.7 dually. It’s been deleted. I tow hot shot for a living. Yesterday I broke down. I don’t know if it’s fuel related or turbo related. I have no power. Truck runs and idles fine. Has new air filter and fuel filters and also a recent oil change. How can someone with minimal mechanical experience diagnose if it’s maybe a fuel pressure regulator or the turbo? Thanks for your help
Do you have video how to reset TPMS LIGHT? I have 2016 ram 2500 6.7l. I put bigger wheels 55psi. And I have another issue. When I pulling heavy trailer my boost up and down and loosing power too
I have replaced my turbo on my 16 3500 ram , and when i got downhill using my exhaust brake i get a ton of smoke , as soon as i step on the gas pedal it's all gone , any ideas on what can it be , this happened right the next trip i took the truck from the shop when replaced the turbo , drives like it should no smoke at anytime only when i go under the exhaust brake after 5 seconds the smoke starts, the shop doesn't know what to do , and they are assured that the turbo is not at fault here ,
I have sold the truck and got a new one. Replaced everything except the engine and transmission, but now i found out that the tuneup was the issue, wich i jave done same time with turbo replacement, and can't tell u exactly. But i have friends who have the same smoke coming out after a tune up only
Great video my turbo is being replace next week. I am glad you recommend replacing the whole thing because I thought they were trying to up sell me. Thanks Paul
Oh took inner fender, tire , and battery out.. it's a workout. Took me 4 hours to take it out and took me every bit of 9 hours.. and invented a new cuss word best of luck..
If I knew where your garage was, this western canuk would be stopping by and giving you another 6.7 turbo change challenge in a 2014 lol. Always awesome vids with so much info.
So I had the P003A code come on after hitting bump driving into gas station, also transmission seems to be stuck in fourth. All after hitting a bump. Wondering if I’m needing new turbo now
Great Video Bud. Everything here is spot on accurate. I saw some comments about people having issues getting the turbo out and back in. To remedy this all I do is basically everything you did here except i remove the exhaust clamp from the turbo right next to the turbo and not the elbow and then since its just right there I go ahead and remove the 12 bolts and get that manifold out of the way. Makes everything much smoother for me personally and may help some others if they are still having a issue with clearance.
I tried everything but no luck getting my turbo out than I just used my engine hoist just a bit of lift and it slid right out just wondering what you think maybe my engine mounts might be bad what do you think they don't look bad ??
Can i use my vgt turbo for a gen two swap my2017 ram 2500 only has 39k running on a buget and i don’t want to loose my eng brake i tow a large trailer Thanks
Tengo un ram 3500 2009 y echa humo blanco me dicen q puede el turbo ser el problema el motor no tiene anticongelante en el aceite pude ser el problema el turbo?
Do you have a turbo brand preference the turbine on my intake side has some play im assuming that means it's getting ready to make a mess out of the engine it's a 2008 with 80000
The truck currently has no codes showing it had a low boost code but putting it on a diet cleared that up it has a rattle when it's under a load that's why I pulled the intake side off to inspect the propeller
@@darkirondiesel not the same as 2013-2018... spring captures are lower so you can access all the actuator bolts head on. I'm not sure if the springs are taller on newer trucks or why but i know they are easier for sure
What is the trick for getting the turbo manifold bolt loose? I am trying everything I can think of ! Also, the back left nut? What angle and tools are needed for these two wicked #!#!#!#??? My project is at a stand still. I watched your video several times. Thank you for taking the time to share.
I did the whole delete kit with a BD Diesel turbo upgrade on my 2013 2500 about 3 years ago and I am literally planning to replace the turbo tomorrow. I ended up using a short socket wrench 5" maybe, a 12" socket extension (only for leverage to give clearance fo the swing of the mallet) and a mallet to get that sucker loose. I'm hoping you don't still need this advice after 2 weeks.
Good video thankyou. Is it possible for a turbo to stop working without throwing a code? I have been told I need a turbo but I had no codes. The only code I have is p0087 wich tell me it is a fuel issue.
@@prestonbitely3917 had my truck repaired . I had a New turbo and the tune was upgraded for the ecm. Truck runs really good at this time. Thanks for asking.
Going to replace the turbo on my 15 with a stock reman from gcl diesel. Would I have to get a scanner to calibrate the actuator? Or is it just a easy plug in and good to go ??!!
Confirm with your supplier but typically if you buy a turbo with an actuator already mounted on it, it will come already calibrated so all you do is install it and plug it in.
Quick question can I tune my truck before discounting the dpf and egr or should I discount everything first and then tune my off-road truck what you think
Have you ever heard of a vgt turbo blowing boost pressure into the coolant (cooling system) and causing bubbling from the radiator into the coolant reservoir?