I show a common issue that causes a bike not to start. These hoses crack and break way too easily causing no fuel to get to the carburetor, because of the loss of the engine vacuum. www.ebay.com/s...
Good video on replacing the vacuum lines! And never a bad idea replacing them with fresh ones but i will say to folks troubleshooting thinking it may be bad valve or vacuum problem, pull out the fuel line from the carb, have it in a bottle/gas can and crank it. U can see if fuel comes out as u crank to immediately eliminate the valve or vacuum(or at least that it got enough vacuum for valve). Make sure it's not still flowing when u stop cranking as well to make sure it's not stuck while ur at it.
You my friend will be known in my circles of biker friends. Ive never worker on a carburettor before today. For years I've ridden a KTM and R.E Classic both fuel injected, I do all the work no problem. My girl rides a scooter. So when it broke down I stripped it down and did the mechanical repairs. However after rebuild it wouldn't. I finally diagnosed carb issue. I wanted to scream as I couldn't sort it out. So Im laying in bed just now and cant sleep trying to find a solution.I watched your vid and had a Hallelujah moment. So I've just got up, went to my garage, and checked the hoses as you've described , lol, not connected correctly 🤣It took 3 mins to hook em up and it started up first time and now runs. Thank you 🙏🏽... I still cant sleep though ;/
No problem, one of the hoses activates a valve on the carb that keeps the bike running if you close the throttle when stopping so the motor wont stall. The other creates a vacuum to open the petcock so fuel from the tank can fill the carb bowl and it prevents the fuel from leaking out through the carb if the float inside it gets stuck open when the bike is sitting.
A tip for those who also use those cool transparent hoses that can be sometimes tight.... I heat up a cup of water usually in the microwave for about 2 minutes or until it starts to boil. Then after a bout 20 seconds to let the water settle. I then dip approx. the length of hose I will be slipping over a nipple and in most cases is about 3/4" into the hot water for about 10 to 20 seconds. Then I pull the tube out of the water and flick the hose to lose the water before I easily slip this NOW STREATCHABLE hose over any orifice or nipple. Then slide the clamp on. I discovered this when I hosed up my dirt bike with a bit smaller hose than usual! That stuff will ( be allowed to expand) and is a great fit. And as science dictates, when something cools down, it shrinks, so you will have a great tight fit.
Hey hitman, when they split and shoot gas all over your motor and you end up in a fire all is lost... Get some real gas lines and never use pretty things to get a real job done. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iMX5wi7Vz0Q.html
Hello, I have a problem, I have a Peugeot Speedfight 1 100cc that recently seized up/heat seized. It was not tuned. I then changed the cylinder, piston etc. It now starts up right away, but after a while it dies all of a sudden (as if you had turned off the key) and then I can start it right up again, this usually happens when I go over 60 km/h or uphill. When I changed the cylinder etc, I also cleaned everything thoroughly, such as the carburettor, intake, new air filter, new fuel filter (there was no fuel filter before) new spark plug. I also removed the oil pump and put a metalplate with a gasket over the hole instead, I now mix the oil directly into the gasoline. Some other info that might be important. - When I drive over 60 km/h, it starts to make a noise from the variator (CVT), it´s sounds quite a lot. - When it died, I tried to start it again while it was rolling and then it started right away, but it made a noise from the variator, like something "let go" that had been seized up, like a rubber sound, maybe from the belt. - The variator belt touches the variator cover on the inside and has grinded a cut in the metal. - In the variator, where the weights are, the belt does not go down to the bottom of the wheel. - The clutch bell had turned blue from the heat. - The place where the connecting rod attaches to the crankshaft had turned blue from heat. - There was no fuel filter on it before. But i now saw there is an internal fuel filter in the gastank, can it affect the vacuum if you now have 2 fuel filters. Please help me. Regards Andree.
@@chriss4365 Ok, thanks for the respons. I took it for a testdrive today and after a while it stopped, so i removed the variator cover to check how it looked and the axle where the weights are that goes into the engine was stuck, so i turned it a bit and it let go, and after it was a bit hard to start again. What could this be? I checked the fuel line and the vacuum valve that goes into the gastank and they worked, if it was some bad bearings in the engine would that be enough to stop the engine while running? If it would be some bad bearings wouldn´t that just like vibrate a bit more, and not stop the engine all toghether. Could something in the engine have taken damage when it heatsized? If so what is the most likely to have taken damage.
@@chriss4365 Hello again, today i opened the cylinder to check, and there was scratches in it, not deep, i could see them but not feel them. So that must have been why it was stuck after it stopped. Does this mean that the crank or bearings are bad? I don´t know what else it could be. Like i said before, i now use premixed fuel with 3% oil, and i have checked the vacuumtap that it worked, i have removed the extra fuelfilter, the carb is cleaned and has the right size jets. It has new airfilter and sparkplug. I saw now that the scratches are pretty wide, one is like in half the cylinder, almost like the pistonring itself has made the wide scratch, could i have stretched them to much when i installed the cylinder?
@@chriss4365 Hello again, today i opened the cylinder to check, and there was scratches in it, not deep, i could see them but not feel them. So that must have been why it was stuck after it stopped. Does this mean that the crank or bearings are bad? I don´t know what else it could be. Like i said before, i now use premixed fuel with 3% oil, and i have checked the vacuumtap that it worked, i have removed the extra fuelfilter, the carb is cleaned and has the right size jets. It has new airfilter and sparkplug. I saw now that the scratches are pretty wide, one is like in half the cylinder, almost like the pistonring itself has made the wide scratch, could i have stretched them to much when i installed the cylinder?
Can vacuum lines wear out over time.I'm constantly having start up problems difficult starting.I got a new carburetor Intake manifold a new petcock and no change at all.I just got new vacuum lines seems to be starting up better now
only vaporized oil and gases should come out of the breather. Never heard of that issue. Drain the oil and see if its watery or smells like gasoline. Change the oil around 500 miles or every 6 months.
@@xXxCrazyJay810xXx you need the first hose connected to get vacuum to the petcock. If it still does that with the filter off you probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. Vacuum leaks cause weird issues like this.
@@xXxCrazyJay810xXx you can't see vacuum leaks all you can do is replace seals gaskets untill the issue resolves. What is the hose connected to? If it runs with it off your engine will get too much air and run lean. Need more info to determine the issue. Try revving it higher than connecting the hose see if it still runs.
No because the engine won't run if their is a leak in the line. If their is a leak in the intake manifold or bad seal in the carb that will cause erratic idling issues.
@@chriss4365 i have 2t scooter and it loses power (full throttle) from 30-50kmh and after 50kmh the rpm gets higher. Do you maybe know what can cause that problem?
I'm not sure the size. You could remove the fuel filter and bring it to autoparts store and see which size hose fits on snugly. They have rolls of hose sold by the foot. Sorry I forgot what size I used.
With further observation I don't believe they're supposed to be fluid or moisture in the second container, since it's connected to the air filter compartment. I believe it's there to see the inside without clear tubings. At first I thought it was connected to the petcock, connected to the fuel transfer, that was the reason why I was concerned, it was all smashed together apparently. I'm new to the scooter world.. I just bought it. My scooter does not idle, after a month. I'm only assuming there's a leak somewhere, it is receiving fuel, it has spark, battery is good. I'm going to have to use water and soap to find any leaks, maybe in the intake manifold, or somewhere else? It works only if I hold the throttle, and rev until it shuts off
@@shadowboxing1729 that is the classic symptom of a blocked pilot jet. Watch my video on cleaning the carburetor. I'm still curious as to what your talking about with that container. It might be a oil catch can.
My god that scooter looks like it needs more than vacuum lines! Do you ever take your time to clean your engine bay? Disgusting brah I wouldn’t risk riding this piece of junk
I’m sorry I’m not trying to be mean. I’m just saying I believe folks will be more susceptible to follow you rather than comment. I can definitely see you know how to wrench. Can you please do a video on gear swap? I’m wanting to tackle this situation but I would like to see it done first
@@steviedebarge77 I did a video on changing the gasket for the gear box but i did not change any of the gears that's the closest you can get to it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-04uLkttBh4Q.html
Dang bro hating on his bike! Haha. I've seen at least a hundred scooter engine bays and that one dang sure ain't disgusting or even disorganized and chaotic looking like many. On and around the carburetor ain't real dusty. And wouldn't risk riding on it based on looking at only this particular engine bay? That i really don't get
go to the nearest auto parts store and buy some real lines (black not clear or colored), get new clamps for the lines and then eliminate all the useless junk in your vacuum stream (research or find a good mechanic). A motor is a motor until the factory screws it up with a bunch of crap to reduce emissions that won't make it 100 miles without a malfunction that produces more emissions than it ever would have... Simple? You bet... And don't plug your egr, you need that or your valves will fail. The only way to eliminate egr is buy a non egr valved head. Get rid of all the crap that doesn't matter while focusing on the things that do matter. If you don't know find out and if you need help contact a local mechanic that does know... Then it looks like this... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iMX5wi7Vz0Q.html Keep on scootin :-)
I never cut off the EGR it ran into the air intake. The vacuum lines in this video have nothing to do with the EGR line that comes from the valve cover.