this is the first and looks like the only one decent video on the entire youtube on how to test and repair scooters electrical. thank you so much for uploading it. it was very helpful!
It doesn't get better that than this: (1).title,content/dialog matches tutorial (2) video is very informative and professional(3).I learned alot. about presentation,plus charging systems.THANKS!
THIS IS THE BEST VIDEO ON RU-vid THAT CORECTLY DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM! THANK YOU AND I ENCOURAGE YOU TO MAKE MORE VIDEOS! I AM VERY THANKFUL! PEOPLE SHOULD WATCH THIS AND SPARE US ALL THE WANTABE VIDEOS! THANKS AGAIN FOR NOT MAKING A CONFUSEING VIDEO!
Um why are the pros talking down about this guy's way of doing his own way to troubleshoot the 50cc scooter electric. Stop hating if you know more great I'm proud of you. But please folks stop the " I'm better " ao what. The guy is showing the correct way.yes you can so this another way but just watch and listen. He's a smart guy .😊😊
great video. I have been tracking down problems on my scooter for the last couple weeks and have finally landed on electrical issues. I'm glad I found your video.
Thank you for taking the time to post this video. Very helpful for those of us who know how to pull a scooter apart, but don't know how to fix it. My 49cc 1988 Honda scooter thanks you too.
Thank you, just needed the pin out for the regulator! I saw the schematic and the wire colors, now I can abuse that to create a wiring loom for my classic.
Although not recommended, you can also use an impact wrench to tighten the flywheel nyut. *Proceeds to use an impact wrench to tighten the flywheel nyut* 😂 Great guide mate, thank you so much! Love the diagrams!
Great video. I had been having a charging issue and this video helped me determine where the issue was. Although I thought the rectifier was the cause this video helped me determine one side of the stator was not sending enough voltage. You might be surprised to find out, as I was, when I pulled the fan off an exhaust gasket fell out. I was wondering why when I replaced the exhaust a few years ago that there wasn't a gasket with the original exhaust. Mystery solved.
First of all thank you very much. This video was awesome and exactly as the trouble shooting steps would go. I changed mine to battery, charging fuse, 12v red wire on the regulator, a/c wires, then I figure scince there is no power from a/c wires, mine is probably a bad stator.
That was great. Thank you. That was very straight forward, to the point, video. AND with schematic! Awesome. People that make videos, watch this! This is how to make videos. No chit chat. Btw, your other videos are great too. I've learned alot from you. Very much appreciated.
This guy wow amazing I don't know what to say he did everything correctly maybe my regulator rectifier is bad on my moped because my battery will hold a charge and it will die after a certain period of time while the bike is on I've ran through so many batteries and replace them all and come to find out is probably my regulator rectifier that's bad cuz it's not pushing out enough output it has a lot of input not enough output
I am new to scooters,so please excuse my ignorance,but, given the amount of work involed,shouldnt you check fuses First,and stator Last? Otherwise GReat tut. Thanks for helping me learn
GY6 150 cc engine in a Roketa go kart. First of all thank you for your video it was very helpful. I would recommend letting people know you can purchase a flywheel puller for under ten dollars. I spent almost seven dollars on cheap 6 mm bolts which failed to pull the flywheel. That is another story. I do have a question: this kart has an eight pole stator. The original was wound slightly different than the replacement. Original had continuity between yellow / white and green wires. I have an inexpensive mulity meter, with that said, it readed zero ohms between all three wires. The ignition pole had about .5 ohms. Long story short; replacement stator out of the box had similar ohm readings on ignition pole. the charging poles (Coils) had continuity between white and yellow wires but no continuity between white, yellow and green. The green and red had continuity and .5 ohms. I installed new stator got engine running and all looked well .... battery voltage started at 12.5 or so and slowly started to increase at idle ... enrichment valve started working again .... headlights were working .... after about fifteen minutes of running main fuse blew..... I replace fuse and now have nothing coming out of the charging portion of the stator .... with the engine running I disconnected the stator and took a AC voltage reading coming from the stator ... white wire .1 AC V ... yellow wire .1 ACV .... I know I will be back into the stator again ... what concerns me ... is the meter reading on this new installed stator is the same they were right of the box before I installed it. Is there any way the flywheel has lost it's magnetism? This just does not make sense, if the charging poles (coils) are still intact and you spin magnets between them they should produce voltage. Any help would be appreciated.
One last question if you can. You say check coutinunity between yellow and green , white and green, but another video I seen says there shouldn’t be between ground? I get nothing from green and yellow or green and white
hey so can you potentially skip taking the whole stator off, and start by checking the stator/charging system the way shown in the video at 6:45? Because if you started there, you can see that the stator is good right? btw this is a really helpful video and quality, straight to the point and excellent instructions thank you
Hello, my scooter wouldn't produce spark if I have my battery connected and I have a car battery on it, but now it won't spark at all I expect the wires from the CDI to be the problem, do u have a video of how to test the CDI wires?
hi. i change on my 49cc 4T new flywheel, stator, rectifier. obtain 13,3v to 15v but when turn on light voltage drop down even accelerate. please help! thanks
Hello, I have a problem, I have a Peugeot Speedfight 1 100cc that recently seized up/heat seized. It was not tuned. I then changed the cylinder, piston etc. It now starts up right away, but after a while it dies all of a sudden (as if you had turned off the key) and then I can start it right up again, this usually happens when I go over 60 km/h or uphill. When I changed the cylinder etc, I also cleaned everything thoroughly, such as the carburettor, intake, new air filter, new fuel filter (there was no fuel filter before) new spark plug. I also removed the oil pump and put a metalplate with a gasket over the hole instead, I now mix the oil directly into the gasoline. Some other info that might be important. - When I drive over 60 km/h, it starts to make a noise from the variator (CVT), it´s sounds quite a lot. - When it died, I tried to start it again while it was rolling and then it started right away, but it made a noise from the variator, like something "let go" that had been seized up, like a rubber sound, maybe from the belt. - The variator belt touches the variator cover on the inside and has grinded a cut in the metal. - In the variator, where the weights are, the belt does not go down to the bottom of the wheel. - The clutch bell had turned blue from the heat. - The place where the connecting rod attaches to the crankshaft had turned blue from heat. - There was no fuel filter on it before. But i now saw there is an internal fuel filter in the gastank, can it affect the vacuum if you now have 2 fuel filters. Please help me. Regards Andree.
If the belt is riding too high, and not going all the way down, it might be too long. The excessive heat could be from the belt slipping. If you have the correct belt length, you might have a weak clutch drive spring (that's the bigger spring in the back) preventing the belt from having the right tension. I don't know if the dying is related to the CVT, but inspect all the components to make sure nothing is damaged or sticking. On some scooters, the CVT cover gasket is required to get the correct clearance. I usually throw away the gasket on my chinese scooters, but I've heard of people having problems with that.
@@LabCoatPaul Hello, thanks for the respons. I took it for a testdrive today and after a while it stopped, so i removed the variator cover to check how it looked and the axle where the weights are that goes into the engine was stuck, so i turned it a bit and it let go, and after it was a bit hard to start again. What could this be? I checked the fuel line and the vacuum valve that goes into the gastank and they worked, if it was some bad bearings in the engine would that be enough to stop the engine while running? If it would be some bad bearings wouldn´t that just like vibrate a bit more, and not stop the engine all toghether. Could something in the engine have taken damage when it heatsized? If so what is the most likely to have taken damage.
@@LabCoatPaul Hello again, today i opened the cylinder to check, and there was scratches in it, not deep, i could see them but not feel them. So that must have been why it was stuck after it stopped. Does this mean that the crank or bearings are bad? I don´t know what else it could be. Like i said before, i now use premixed fuel with 3% oil, and i have checked the vacuumtap that it worked, i have removed the extra fuelfilter, the carb is cleaned and has the right size jets. It has new airfilter and sparkplug. I saw now that the scratches are pretty wide, one is like in half the cylinder, almost like the pistonring itself has made the wide scratch, could i have stretched them to much when i installed the cylinder?
@@NorthSurvival yes, if your engine overheated and siezed up, it's likely the cylinder, piston, and maybe the bearings are damaged. You probably need to rebuild the engine.
@@LabCoatPaul Hi, now after i opened it up again i saw that there was scratches in the cylinder and bigger/deeper once in the piston/rings. So that whole cylinderkit for 200$ is trash. I don´t know what to do, maybe the crank got damaged the first time it heatsized, so now it´s not inline. I checked the pistonrings and they had a small gap like they should so they can expand. And i checked the bearings like you said on the variatorside and i could not move it one mm, they where really firm. What do you think, ruled out a lot of things and the only thing left (i think) is that the crankshaft/crankshaft bearings has gotten damaged/out of line. And when i now opened the cylinder it was oil in it and on the piston and in the bottom of the crankcase so i am pretty sure that it get´s the oil it needs, so that can´t be why
instructive your video, thanks for the, I have a problem with the battery charge my scooter which to measure the stator ohms where you give 411ohms corresponding to the voltage of the coil, (my stator has 11 things ) My reading is zero. That I can do to correct and / or verify this because the battery is not taking charge you for your help.
When testing for continuity on each part of the stator, you're looking for a small number, between 0.5 and 2 ohms. The high voltage part will have more resistance. zero ohms means a short circuit. "0L" on the multimeter means no connection. If you get either one, you may need a new stator.
If I have plenty of voltage coming to the battery which should be ruling out the regulator being at fault, but the headlight dims when using the indicators, what could that be? I've even changed the front and rear lights to led's to help reduce the current draw. The indicators are the only thing pulling the lights down when used. Thanks
I have 35+ volts when I check the voltage coming from the stator to the voltage regulator (while regulator is not plugged in) but once I plug it in, the voltage drops to 11.9V on the yellow and 7V on the white. I have changed the stator, regulator and battery. I have no idea what else I can do to fix it. Anyone got any clue what is going on?
so does that mean the yellow that is at 11.9 idle and 13.8 reving engine is good or bad. The scooter will not start again I can kick start it. Thank you again for your help.
Hi, great video. I have a 2004 bws 50cc. When I do the ac test on the regulator, the white wire (charging) voltage increases with engine speed but when I test the yellow wire (lighting), the voltage increases with a little more engine speed but then drops to 11 or 10 volts the more the engine is sped up... the lighting coil seems to have a problem but we have to charge the battery every few days. I'm really confused.
thank you for this video, i tested my stator and it all checked out fine, checked the wiring harness all fine but im only getting 2v ac on the white cable but getting 20v on the yellow, its a brand new stator could it be faulty?
You shouldn't have continuity between ground and either of the AC power wires coming out of the stator. Please explain if I'm wrong ! Otherwise your power coming out would be shorted to ground. I'm talking about from 2:58 - 3:28 in the video.
Just look at the wiring diagram. Each coil is grounded on one side. The output voltage is relative to ground. You can also compare the diagram to other GY6 diagrams. Just do a google images search for GY6 wiring diagram.
I agree with you after further thought. I should be able to measure the resistance of both the yellow or white coils to ground as in most stators one end of the inductor coil is attached to the base plate of the stator. I have here a stator that seems to have one big long heavy copper wire that forms both the white coils and yellow coil in series with no connection to the base plate......What in the world is this? Floating ground stator? So, in the normal 8 pole stator with one pole dedicated to the ignition power circuit and the other seven going to make up both the yellow wire coil and the white wires coils it seems that most of the time I see only one of the seven coils making up the power to the yellow wire and the other six in series making up the power to the white wire. We have two power lines of AC going into the voltage regulator. Seems like the white wire would supply higher voltage of AC to the regulator/rectifier than the yellow one since the yellow wire is only powered by one pole and it supposedly has a branch going off to supply the headlights with AC power before making its way to that regulator/rectifier. The yellow wire ALSO seems to have a branch going over to the carburetor heater mechanism that shuts your rich fuel choke off. With all this load on the yellow wire maybe I should be switching the white and yellow wires in the connector so the white wire can supply all this stuff the yellow wire seems to run . Say you have a PERFECTLY running scoot where all the electrical devices seem to run properly and to one's satisfaction(I realize this condition would only occur on the first night you brought your new Chinese scoot home LOL ); could you THEN remove the battery if you connected all the circuits you have connected to the red terminal of your battery together and included the red wire to the voltage regulator to that spade lug you created in your now empty battery box ???? Would this burn up a perfectly good voltage regulator if there were no source of storage capacity in the form of the battery at low engine speeds ? Appreciate anyone's input on any of this I've discussed.
@@bigpig41 I just bought an 8 pole 'type 1' ? stator from ebay gy6store, and there is no continuity from stator center metal to white or yellow wires. I don't know if this is normal, but it seems that I am not the only person posting here about this condition. according to the seller, this stator should work on a tao tao 150, which is what I have.
Hi thk fr the gd expl n video when charging the battery i can drive the scooter the whole day but when leaving overnight it wont start unless i charge the battery again stator new cdi ignition coil n selenoid ok any idea thk
You may have a parasitic draw on the battery. That means something is taking power when the scooter is off. With the key out, disconnect ONE of the battery terminals, and connect an ammeter in between the battery and the wire to measure how much current is going through. You should have very close to 0 electricity being used when the scooter is off. If something is taking power, go through the scooter, disconnecting electrical components, one at a time, until it stops using power. Then you've found your problem.
good i have a 150 cc too put in a stator and cdi finnaly have spark but no headlights the green wire from the cdi was the wire i was using for the head lights. my dumb ass brother fuked around with the wiring. the 3 wires from the headlight switch i know but what wire is the one to power the headlights?
Hi. This was so helpfull. Just by uncoppling the wire from the stator, and testing it with a test lamp. i knew i had charge. Next step, voltage regulator. Burnt/corridated wires. Cut kabels, new shoes and lots of el tape. and voila. hehe. Saved my day, week, months. weel see. anyways, Thnx a lot!
hi, I have changed the regulator, stator and rotor for brand new and still cannot see increasing voltage when reving the engine. I dont know what else I should replace. Cannot use the my KYmco aglity rs 50 2010 with lights on, because battery is not charging. when I swith the light the voltage dropped to 12,1v and lower and not going up at all when reving the engine doesnt matter if lights on or off. help. Thanks
Great , i have problem, when i install battery to the scooter , immediately the batery go down without key turn on. Looks like short circuit... And when turn light on... Lighting constantly , no blinking .. Any idea ?
ok so I changed the regulator and the test are basically the same the yellow-green an ac is 7.1 and then drops to 4.3ish when I rev the engine .so I retested it unplugged and the white/green tested 11.0 and then 12.5 when rev isn't that low also i noticed that the battery when scooter is on goes to 15.8 I thought it should not be above 15. Any ideas it's a new battery new stator and regulator.
Hey bud let me ask you, I had a bad regulator because it was charging 15.1 volts. I had several new regulators but they were all 5 pin with an extra black wire. I know I shouldn't have but I cut the connector and hard wired everything to the new regulator except for the black wire because there was no black wire. Just a green red white and yellow. Surprisingly the voltage came down to 13 and my light worked which they didn't earlier with the bad regulator. What do I do with the black wire? I noticed my digital odometer and speedometer stopped working when I put the new regulator on. Maybe I should have connected the black wire with one of the other wires? Please help!
I have a question on the main headlights of my Wildfire R5 150cc scooter. My rectifier(regulator) was bad and I replaced that. I have all signal and running lights but not the headlights. I have all new bulbs and have checked ohm reading on magneto. Is there something else I'm missing? Seems strange all the other lights seem to be working fine. What would you think is my next step.
Hi Paul I am getting 11v between GY and 17v between GW on a brand new regulator rectifier on my honda activa. Is there something else i need to check. GR DC is 12.6 and battery is 12.6 on cold and 14.5v with engine on . Please help.
