Very well done. I really appreciate all the pro tips you included, like checking the epoxy in the morning and clearing the hole on the grip. Those are definitely trial and error mistakes that I won’t heave to experience now! 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
4:21 I suggest using a wire brush to clean out the shaft (also the hosel of a club head), and not a drill as that risks removing some of the steel of the shaft.
Excellent film, thanks for posting. I just last week learned how to re-grip and this is next. I'm slightly unsure about the epoxy only because there are so many different types!! I'll probably go for the Araldite Ultra Strong and test it good and long in my garden before letting anyone within 50ft of me !! Great stuff to know especially in lockdown when I can't get to the pro shop. Thanks again.
Great advice mate and thanks. I'll be sorting out my son's new blades with appropriate shafts shortly and you've saved us a mozza. He's a low marker 13yo and so will be needing a lot of shaft upgrades as he grows. He can learn to do this himself too! Cheers from Sydney - Dave
@@mattverickgames5575 OK, yes it's true. Despite our best intentions, sometimes it's possible to slip into vicarious living through our kids. Cheers Matt - Dave 🙂
I like the trick of using hot water to move the ferrule. I'm going to be replacing the shaft on a Hogan Equalizer wedge soon, and I want to save the ferrule and reuse it. However, the existing shaft is a .355 taper tip, so I'm not going to want to move the ferrule too far up the shaft. I'll have to figure something out.
Golf epoxy has a lower glass transition temperature that makes the head easier to separate from the shaft using heat. A high temperature epoxy makes it harder to remove the head. Graphite shafts can be easily damaged.
Excellent video, thank you very much…. I’m going to try this with my gap wedge on the weekend… Fingers crossed I don’t mess it up! Thanks again for showing us how to do this…. 👍
I’m pretty sure you shouldn’t be tipping acetone down the drain but thanks for the info anyway! Do you use anything to centre the head? I’ve seen people use some kind of sand for this purpose..
Hi! I need to transfer the nameplate from one golf club to another on the back of iron # 8 Big Bertha Callaway. Do you have any advice for me. It is especially important for me to remove the plate without damage. Sincerely, Igal
Unfortunately not. Graphite shaft removal is most definitely best done by a professional. It requires just enough heat to soften the glue without damaging the fibres within the shaft, and a direct pull of the shaft from the head with no twist, using a special shaft extraction tool.
Very easy to measure and match the swing weight of the previous club to the new club without a swing weight scale. Simply find and mark the balance point of the club before removing the shaft and then do the same with the Re shafted club. However, the reality is that when you are using the same head and swapping over the same shaft, it would be very surprising to have any significant change in swing weight. Certainly not a change that any club level golfer would notice.
Hi James, yes absolutely. You should actually remove the chrome plating on the section of shaft that will be glued using a grinding wheel or linishing belt. This will ensure that the epoxy has a good bond onto the shaft.
Hi, Can ask is it imperative that you use golf grade epoxy or is that a myth created by golf epoxy manufacturers. Will any steel on steel 24 hour set epoxy do? Thanks Darren
Thanks for sharing. Simpe process. I will try it to replace my broken 9 iron shaft. I noticed that the grip logo got moved to 180 deg. Typically, it is on the top. Looks like we need to align and push it instead of rotating.
Not exactly sure what you mean. If you are replacing like for like shaft then there will be no need to mess with weight at all. If when you remove the old shaft, there is a shaft tip weight in the shaft…. Then just transfer this weight into the new shaft.
Wow, great tips on the hot water ferrel removal and the stove top heating process, but Please let's be environmentally responsible and stop throwing chemicals and shavings down the drain as this goes back to our drinking water systems.
Hehehe! My Wife would kill me if I did this in the kitchen. I just pulled a head off and it smoked the garage out. I guess I left the torch on the hozel too long and as I pulled it off there was an abundance of nasty smoke. Anyway, thanks for the info, it was very helpful considering I was concerned I’d have to actually buy a pulling vice, but you showed how simple it really is. Thanks!
The process shown is good but some processes need to be improved on. The disassembly process shown ONLY works for steel shafted clubs. Shaft prep was good but head prep was not. You need to completely clean the head back to the steel. You can use round steel brushes or round sandpaper drill attachments to get the job done right. Epoxy, you should only use specialized golf shaft epoxy. It has the right adhesive strength and breaks down at 200 degrees for removal. Also you should only use enough epoxy to bind the two surfaces. Excess epoxy will give improper binding and add weight to the head.
Thanks for the input Brian. Maybe you can produce some of your own content instead of just critiquing other people’s. As a pga qualified golf professional I am fully aware of the “ideal” requirements and scenario to carry out a perfect repair. However I am showing people how it can be done at home with minimal equipment. And by the way, the “golf club specific epoxies” that they like to sell for a fortune are no different, they just package and label it differently. I have been using this epoxy for years with zero failures and trouble free disassembly. Thanks again for your input, I look forward to seeing your videos.
