Simply a awesome channel. Been really wanting to learn all about fixing clubs etc being a machinist i figured it was only common sense to learn it lol.... Plus couple of my playing partners have messed up clubs and i wanted to figure out how to help them fix the problem. Great explanation thank you very much!
I just broke my hybrid on the range this morning before my semifinal match. Sigh. I really missed having it during match. I'm glad that my trusty club can be saved. Thank you for the video.
You can go as high as you want. There are some builders who believe you should not even use a heat gun because it is too slow and can damage the shaft because the heat is on it for too long. I don't believe that, but it shows there are plenty of people using torches to pull graphite with no issues. For me since the epoxy transitions out of a glass like state at around 300F, the heat gun works great. You also don't need to worry about burning paint etc on wood heads. Just keep it focused on the hosel and move it around the hosel for faster even heating.
good videos m8 quick question for you been dabbling in making golf clubs since we were in lock down with great levels of sucess removed mumerous driver heads reset them on other shafts made hybrids etc i am using 3M DP810 Epoxy Resin.I nwo have ran ito a problem with one shaft its a Taylormade R7 Reg Flex shaft but for some reason the resin is not adhearing to the shaft any ideas on why this is happening cheers
What head are you trying to epoxy it to? Assuming you have cleaned the tip enough to remove all the old epoxy, the shaft should be good to go. After you rough up the tip, you might try just a little acetone on a paper towel quickly wiped over the prepped area to remove any residue (either dust type from prep, or any other type). Just be careful not to wipe the painted finished areas of the shaft as you will remove the paint. I always wipe the hosels of heads or adapters with a Q tip and acetone to remove any last bits of residue. New adapters can often have some machining oil residue that can compromise the epoxy bond.
Usually I add 1 swing weight point (2g) to the dry SW measurement I take before assembly. That covers both the epoxy and the ferrule that I don't use at the dry fit stage.
Good video as usual. A question..what happens if you dont fully seat a steel shaft into a iron head? Does it effect feel or performance? I'm reshafting my set of irons and noted the previous shafts haven't been seated fully. Inserted approximately 1inch instead of the full 1.25 inches Not impressed as I had them made a 1/4 inch longer.
Less tip bonded inside the hosel will result in a slightly softer shaft. Most people would never be able to tell though. Sometimes this is done to try and hit a certain shaft frequency if someone is using that build mentality. Sometimes it's done when trying to stretch a shaft that would otherwise be a little short. And sometimes the hosel just wasn't cleaned out fully before a reshaft and old epoxy etc was left down in the bottom. You would have to tell me if it changed feel or performance though, assuming you have been playing these irons and didn't just buy them for a reshaft.
I feel cheated, its a recent purchase and I asked for them to be a 1/4 inch longer than standard. So they have inserted the tip a 1/4 less it seems. Only found out as I'm trying different shafts. My next question is what's the minimum insertion depth?
@@waynedunkley2015 This sounds like clubs that were ordered incorrectly at standard and then altered in this unusual way. Minimum depth is probably around 3/4 inch for it to hold, though I would not feel comfortable with under an inch personally.
Hi loved this video. I had a loose clubhead and pulled the graphite shaft and cleaned it out and when I go to put the shaft back into the hosel, it is very loose. Is this normal. I know I did not oversand or bore out the hosel. How do I keep the iron head upright while the epoxy is setting up in my 9 iron? Do you mind helping me with this question. Love your channel and subscribed!
What brand is it? Callaway, Ping, and PXG all can have a wide hosel by design. PXG can use a special collared ferrule and spacer you can buy. Callaway and Ping have another method I prefer. Watch this video to see the fiberglass tape method. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eSdutT5NU40.html
@@EFGMC It is a ping g15 9 iron. I am using the shaft that came out of it, but dont understand why there is so much play in it. I just checked it after putting epoxy in about 10 hours ago and it seems to be firm, but wow, there was so much play, I was wondering how in the world do you hold the head in place to get it lined up with the grip? Shouldn't it be snug when I put the shaft in all the way?
Thanks for the vid AJ. My problem is a little different. Both the head and the ferrule of my 8 iron are as tight as can be but there is a 1/3 inch gap between them. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks!
Have you left your clubs in a hot car truck maybe. Some epoxy's transition temp is pretty low and can become pliable at relatively low temp. It could have come loose and then cooled again back to solid. Guessing here but it can happen. Worst case, might need to reinstall the shaft.
@@EFGMC Thanks a ton for the response. Certainly possible out here in the desert. Will take a look at your other vids on heating the ferule a bit to see if I can move it. Otherwise, I'll look at your other videos on removing and installing a club head from a graphite shaft....or maybe just head to the shop. :) Thanks for all your great content!
At :10:33 you have a Steel part in thé shafts....is that pièce necessary or i Can juste glue thé shafts in thé head and let thé hole empty? Thanks for reply, very good video
That was a weight installed to get a certain total weight and balance. I cleaned it up and reused it so the club would play the same as before. You don't have to use it, but the weight would be lighter if left off. Thanks for watching.
Hi AJ, I was looking for a video that I think you made where you used a metal mesh tape to make an iron shaft fit more snug in a callaway hosel. Can you point me to that video?
I use Golfworks epoxy but most golf specific epoxies will work fine. 3M also makes good ones but they are far more expensive and not really sure what you get for the money.
I have a PXG 2 iron with a graphite shaft. It has developed a gap between the ferule and the head, but I don't know if the issue is the ferule or the head. I can twist really hard on the grip while holding the head and nothing moves. However, the ferule doesn't move either if I try to twist it. I've even put the head gun on the ferule some but get no movement. Any thoughts?
Hi - this is Rajnish Gambhir from India. 2 months ago I bought a brand new Callaway driver (MAVRIK). In a span of 3 - 4 rounds the ferrule had slightly slipped up 3 times. Each time I had to get it fixed. Is it safe to continue hitting the driver even with a slipped ferrule without having it fixed?
Is it a collared ferrule or not. Can't recall if Mavriks have a collar. If no collar, it is fine. Would probably just say get some epoxy of some kind or even super glue and slide it back into place and tack it. If it has a collar, it should still be fine but I would start by trying to twist the head on the shaft and make sure everything is tight still. Should be fine to use if tight. Who is fixing it? Sounds like they are just pushing it back down but not using an adhesive to hold it there. Again I would get some epoxy or glue and put it on the shaft in the gap between the hosel and ferrule and then press the ferrule back into place. Or at the very least, find someone else to do the repair work since it doesn't sound like it's been done right so far.
Not using any adaptors its an uncut shaft.The head iam trying to attach is an Taylormade 14 degree rescue hybrid (Rare I know ) it came with a stiff shaft iam no use at hitting a 3 wood of the deck :),so i removed that stiff shaft is no use for me just seems strange when i apply the resin it just seems to dissapear lol yeah understand roughing it up with sandpaper making sure its a clean surface before applying the resin i also mix a bit of sugar through it seems to work for me maybe try some glassbeads next, i thought it maybe the type of carbon fibre shaft, i have applied it twice now but to no joy. What resin would you recommed for making your clubs almost out of the DP810 so kinda tells ya how many clubs i have made was maybe just gonna try one of the single use epoxys just to get this to adhear cheers again
What are the tip diameters of the two pieces. I believe the rescue is .370 and the R7 shaft is .350. If that's the case, are you using a shim of some sort? You will need one. I have never heard of using sugar in epoxy. Seems like a bad idea. Shafting beads are good but only meant to fill small spaces. Don't use over 5% beads per volume epoxy. That 3M epoxy is good stuff. That should not be the issue unless it's a bad batch but sounds like you have used with other clubs without issue.
@@EFGMC Yeah Sugar lol read it somwhere it does work not failed yet for me(YET) dont know if i really need to use it suppose extra bit of confidence knowing its kinda binded with something suppose still learning, yeah had that thought at one point on my second attempt that it just does not grip it enough never tried building any with a shim never needed to as most fits were pretty neat fits,dont know the diameters off hand of the shaft and the golf head that is an idea i will check the diameters with my calipers see what the difference is.Will go buy some shimms from ebay from ebay prob need them in the future thanks again
A hair dryer will get the ferrule loose but probably won't soften the epoxy enough. Ideally you need the epoxy to get over 250F to transform into the softer rubber state from a glass like state. This is not only important for removing the head, but also for cleaning out that old epoxy before applying new.
Hi AJ, just a quick question I am left handed and got a different shaft for my driver Head, I think the shaft is off a right handed Driver. Does this affect the settings on the Adapter? Thanks, Chris
Chris, the adapter will be reversed as far as the loft/face angle goes. Increasing loft on the hosel will lower it and vise versa. Lie angle won't change.
@@EFGMC thanks for that AJ, very much appreciated. Just to be certain, so when it comes to Lie nothing changes. If I put on the Draw setting it stays in the Draw position doesn't reverse? Again thanks A.J.
@@chriscolaidis3393 Chris, the lie angle setting would not change b/c it moves in the 12 o clock, 6 o clock plane. The loft or face angle (ie draw, fade, etc.) moves in the 9 o clock 3 o clock plane and that is the one that will be reversed on the LH head. If you haven't watched my adjustable hosel video, I would watch that. Really gives the best visuals on the web of what actually is happening. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tKPY51evEh0.html
What if the head of the iron isn't loose but is starting to create a gap between it and the ferul? Should I just remove the head, clean everything up and do this? or should I take it to a store and have them push the head back up onto the shaft?
Any tips on moving my ferrules up? I know you said early in the video to just slide it back up but I can't get mine to budge at all and I'm worried about melting the ferrules when I use a torch..please help
Get a wet paper towel or similar and wrap the ferrule with it. Then focus the heat at the bottom of the hosel away from the ferrule and keep trying to twist the head off after every 10-20 seconds of heating depending on if you use a torch or heat gun. Of course if you are working with graphite shafts, those ferrules are toast because you need the shaft puller to remove the shafts for reuse.
@@EFGMC thanks for the help I will try that. It's a steel shaft in a set of irons. For some reason the ferrules have slid up and there's a gap...should I be removing the club head to slid the ferrules down?
@@steve.g1582 If you are sure it's the ferrule, which it most likely is, then you don't need to do anything with the head, just reset the ferrule. I always first just try and twist the head and make sure it is still tight. If the ferrules are sliding up but not moving easily enough to slide them back, first option is to run the ferrule under hot tap water for 30s or so. Heating the plastic a little will usually allow you to move them without worry of melting or deforming. If you have some pliers with rubber pads over the jaws, those can be useful to help slide them back without damage. Once you can get them moving, just put a little epoxy or even super glue for this repair (only time you should use super glue!) in that space and press them back together. Just make sure if you used hot water, the club is dry before glueing.
My driver head screw broke ..half in my shaft adapter other half still in head is there anyway to fix that or is my fav driver just done or is there a quick fix like just putting it on the setting I use and epoxy the shaft adapter straight to the head
You should be able to get a replacement screw for the head. Getting the part out of the head is simple. Just push it through using a pen or screwdriver. It's usually just held there with a small plastic or rubber washer. The broken screw in the adapter will be trickier. You can drill a small hole in it and use a screw extractor to get it out. Other option is to buy a new adapter and swap the shaft out. I would try and contact the OEM first and see if they will replace the screw and or the adapter. Heck, they might replace the entire club depending on who it is and how old.
@@EFGMC thx buddy got screw outta driver head ...ordered new adapter tip off eBay...still going to try to drill it out just wanted to say thank you just about tossed them out till you gave me direction thx again sir
Anyone ever try the 600 series Lock Tite? It is expensive but is designed specifically for slip fit cylindrical joinery and I doubt you need more than few drops per club.
There are other options that will hold clubs together, the point of golf epoxy is that it can take impact forces and breaks down at lower temps. Some products you will have a hard time ever getting apart need be.
Having trouble removing a head from shaft. I heated hosel multiple times for ~5-10 mins with a heat gun and pulled like the hulk and nothing. Every other club I removed head easily with heat gun except for this... wonder if JB weld was used lol.... any tips? I don't feel like using a butane torch but maybe this will do the trick?
@@EFGMC it broke at the connector part. The actual driver head has no damage it’s just the connector which is not a apart of the driver. I would think I can just replace the shaft
@@Sportsguy-rl8wj If the shaft just came out of the adapter/hosel then it can be repaired. If the shaft is broken off inside the hosel, then you will need a new shaft.
