Here are the Amazon links for some of the products used in the video: USA: Boiled linseed oil: amzn.to/3tA0D6f WD40: amzn.to/3pka5rd Oil spray gun: amzn.to/3jNlz5x Safety glasses: amzn.to/3b3xMix Rubber gloves: amzn.to/3tXng51 Canada: Boiled linseed oil: amzn.to/3pV8t8o WD40: amzn.to/3u22O2G Oil spray gun: amzn.to/37bTy2b Safety glasses: amzn.to/37hVPJw Rubber gloves: amzn.to/2NpGwHF
Great guide! Thank you for the video. I have done this on my car, an old Land Rover that I drive in Sweden. I use cold pressed raw linseed oil instead, not boiled. Raw linseed oil is a bit thinner than boiled and can be applied as it is on a warm day. However, it takes a much longer time to dry out, at least a couple of days. You can also mix the linseed oil with graphite powder to get a darker coating. I haven't tried that though.
You can use any wood water proofer like Thompson's water seal if you already have that on hand. I like to use a regular hand pump sprayer like those used for spraying weeds as it extends your reach. Be careful about breathing it as it can cause respiratory failure. A n-95 mask is good and use in a ventilated area. I spray my cars every year as Minnesota is hard on cars!
Awesome clip! Love this channel and 4diyers. However, don't forget to wash the car afterward this treatment. Linseed is almost impossible to remove once its dried. Shame if any came on to the paint by accident.
I used a Harbor Freight airless sprayer to straight boiled linseed oil on my truck frame and did cavity wax inside the frame. It worked well. Getting ready to do it again for the winter, but I think I'm going to try Flood Penetrol which is supposed to be a linseed based product that dries faster than BLO.
@@500hardcore I didn't wind up doing it. I was waiting until I was able to get my plastic oil pan replaced ('15 Ford 2.7), and now winter is here. The BLO did attract some dirt, and I wanted to blast it clean before coating. The BLO is holding up well, so I do think every other season will work OK for me even here in the rust belt.
@@500hardcore I did it this year 25% Penetrol 75% BLO. The BLO mix was thinner, sprayed better, and it did dry much more quickly than straight BLO. I think straight BLO creeps into the rust better, but the mix is better as a maintenance coat over a good dry BLO base or good paint.
@@GusMahn Nice! Glad it work out. Look into liquid film “ spray can” for the hard to reach spots. I emphasize on hard to reach, because I used it on my frame and when summer hit it was dripping on my driveway lol. Probably good stuff for inside the frame cavity if your frame is boxed like mine.
Thanks for the video. I've been contemplating what would be the best undercoating for my newer truck and I know for certain that I would never use anything that got hard like a paint or rubberized undercoating. I was toying with the idea of using diesel fuel but as you suggest, maybe the best route to go would be to use linseed oil. Have you ever used anything else ? Perhaps transmission fluid / kerosene / motor oil ?
Being a newer truck, a wax/hybrid spray maybe a better choice, however it's more expensive. I have shown this method on my other channel ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WN_n4gpCorM.html Using other things like motor oil, this is where you risk damaging rubber components like bushings, seals, etc which is why I'd avoid stuff like that. Fluid Film is also another popular choice, that's an oil based rust inhibiting coating, I haven't used it. With rust inhibiting coatings, oil tends to creep more and is great for any mild forms of existing rust. Wax on the other hand is great for something which is rust free, it provides a thicker layer which will seal out moisture and repels water. Linseed oil is excellent as a budget friendly options, it creeps like oil and leaves a layer like wax.
@@homesforbeginners Yes, I'm aware of Fluid Film and New England Undercoatings but I don't want anything that goes on too think and holds dirt. Perhaps if I thin them out ? But if I'm going to do that then maybe boiled linseed oil mixed with wax is similar and probably less expensive. Chevy uses some sort of coating on their frames that stays soft but is not sticky and it's not too thick. I think that's what I'm aiming for. The thing about boiled linseed oil is that it does dry and it would be better if it stayed a bit softer . That's why I keep returning to a light oil like diesel fuel. I think I'm going to experiment with diesel mixed with wax. I'll put it on some metal and see how it dries.
@@johnmazza9432 I like the idea of Linseed oil as it is more eco-friendly than ATF. My friend is using Lanolin religiously every fall. As for me I haven't made it beyond the wax setting at the car wash and a little engine oil on the things I expect I will need to take apart at some point.
Great video, but where did you find the nozzle adapter for a 360deg spray pattern? Also whats the proper name? I looked at Princess Auto, Home Depot, Lowes, etc
Mixing linseed oil with WD40 is new to me. Usually it is thinned with turpentine or white spirit, so the linseed oil drys quicker and can be sprayed easy. Doesn`t it stay more sticky with WD40?
Haha, same person. I had people requesting home repair tutorials and considering we're going through home renos, I didn't want to pass up on the idea. Building the garage will be on here too, already uploaded the first video on the ground work and floor pad. Thank you for the feedback and support too, I really appreciate it!
The South African formula for rustproofing a vehicle underside every six months involves boiled linseed oil and mineral turpentine mixed 1:1 and sprayed on with a normal atomizer spray bottle. It is literally effective enough when applied every six months to carry a guarantee.
I'll have to try all these on a scrap metal and see what works best. Will the mineral spirits hurt rubber ? What about raw linseed oil ? I think it doesn't dry hard but maybe that's a good thing ?
Add graphite powder to the mix. It's used with epoxy resin to make the resin more durable (like on the bottom of surf boards) but it also makes the resin go black in color quickly like a pigment would do
Just throw some in till its as dark as you need. A little goes a long way, so you shouldn't need a pile of it. I bought silk seed from Amazon. It's graphite powder but marketed to farmers so it's a lot cheaper than straight marketed "graphite powder"
@@jimmywells33 Careful, graphite is conductive: THATS BAD for 2 reasons: electrical connections, and rust is an electro-chemical reaction, and non conductivity is an incredibly important part of rustproofing coatings.
