Since I introduced the Daytona Crossbeam Attachments on my channel I have had some of my viewers question safety. Any thing can be dangerous if it is miss used! In this video I will demonstrate how to safely use the attachment.
Most people would buy only one making the video mute. However, I purchased two and noticed that when used together some vehicles would become dangerously unstable thus prompting me to make the video. thanks for the kind words and watching my channel.
Good video Rick! I agree, always have a 2nd method of supporting the vehicle, especially if you are under it with the wheels off. And make sure the wife knows how to use the jack, just in case! Thanks again for turing those rotars for me, the truck brakes are smooth as silk now! Just replaced my fuel lines with 3/8 SS line, so they should out live the truck.
Thanks for the comments Dan. You know that is a great suggestion. I always let her or my son know when I am going under but I have no idea if she or my son has ever used a jack. I will find out today. I am glad you are happy with the rotors and I am glad you found my channel.
I am glad my video was helpful Zack, Let me know how you like them. Don't forget to use stands once you have raised the vehicle.. Thanks for watching my channel.
Thanks Jeff, Quite often they sell out as soon as they get them in. I ordered mine on line. Use them as intended, good luck, be safe and thanks for watching my channel.
Most people only have one jack making the video a moot point as only one side can be raised at a time anyway. However, if you are like me and have two jacks with the crossbeam attachments, I found the vehicle can become dangerously unstable. Thus, prompting me to post the video. Thanks for watching and posting the comment.
Thanks I have found these very useful. Just be careful! do not get under the car with these alone supporting it. Thanks for taking the time to place a comment and thanks for watching my channel.
Thanks; I had previously tried raising both sides at once as I have 2 sets. The vehicle however when being supported from both sides became dangerously unstable.
Thanks Jeff, I think most people would only buy one making the video a moot point. However, having two sets when I attempted to lift both sides at the same time the car became dangerously unstable. This prompted me to make the video as I was sure others like myself may have purchased two crossbeam jacks as well.
Most people only have one jack making the video mute. However, having purchased a set, the vehicle became dangerously unstable when I used both at the same time. I therefore felt the need to make this video.
What is the vehicle in your video? I wonder if there would be enough room with a car. Especially once one side is lifted and the other side is somewhat lower.
Thanks for the question. The car in the video is a 2011 Chrysler 200 4cyl. As you can see I have two crossbeam jacks. The point I was trying to make in the video was that you cannot jack both sides at the same time with these because the car will become unstable. So you jack one side with the opposite wheels still on the floor. Once you have placed the stands, then you can go around and raise the other side to place your stands. The jack stands now supporting the car at the opposite side will keep the car in a stable condition. With the first side already raised and supported the second side will be somewhat higher than normal which allows plenty of room to slide the jack under. I hope this answers your questions. Thanks for watching.
I understand the need for at least 3 contact points at all times to keep stability. My point is, once one side is raised, the car is somewhat tilted so the opposite side now sits lower. You're saying there's still enough room to get the beam under -- obviously there is in your case as you've demonstrated, but I wonder that will always be the case. It's crazy how some cars have dedicated F/R jack points (honda, acura comes to mind), others don't.
@@geepeezee5030 In all the times I have used those jacks or any jack for that mater when you raise one side the other side is somewhat higher as well. What you are thinking of is a central pivot point where when one side goes up and the other must go down accordingly. The automobile suspension has no such pivot point. Each wheel is independently suspended therefore when you raise one corner or one side they all go up a little.
I was the one of the first to review the crossbeams. I got my hands on the first one before they were available in stores. When I obtained my second one, I found the vehicles would become dangerously unstable when used at the same time on each side. I put that video out very quickly thereafter. Thanks for watching.
Great video Now is that 20 inches off the floor as from under the tire. Other words a 20 inch block of wood would fit under the tire? I ask this as I need to jack a car up at least 15 inches off the floor and this is from the bottom of the tire to the ground.
It is from the floor to the jacking point. the Daytona 3 ton jack in the video had a maximum jacking hight of 23 and1/4 inches. With the addition of the cross beam attachment you can get it up to approximately 29 inches. How far the wheel gets off the ground depends on how much the vehicles suspension will allow the wheel to drop down. Check out this video as it sounds like what you need. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6upm-2Porn4.html They will lift the wheels about 15 inches and are very safe.
Thanks for that information and I watched that video and they sure are the Rolls Royce of Jack Stands and he also showed on how one can remove a wheel and that is my only purpose as I have built a wheel dolly and its a bit high as 10 inches and I need to get the bottom of the tire at least 10.5 inches off the ground. so it can fit under the raised tire.
Thanks for the question Chitown. As you know on most modern vehicles with unitized bodies there are 4 reinforced pinch welds designated as jacking points. On such vehicles most of the weight is in the front due to the engine and transaxle. If you have ever attempted to raise such a vehicle from the front reinforced pinch weld with a regular jack you may have noticed after you have jacked the front wheel just a very few inches off the ground the back wheel begins to come up as well. Obviously, the crossbeam attachment cannot reach from the reinforced pinch weld in the front to the one in the back. However, if you place the front pad on the front reinforced pinch weld and the other as far as it will reach toward the back (even if the back pad doesn’t make the reinforced weld) the very uneven weight distribution will work in your favor putting very minimal weight on the regular pinch welds causing no damage. The nice thing about raising the vehicle in this manner is once the vehicle is raised all the jacking points are still available for jack stands. Without the crossmember by putting a regular jack under one of the designated jacking points you do not have room to add a stand. I hope that answers your question, Thanks again.
Thanks for the question rayscopes; I posted a video on that subject last year. here is the link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Jo_zBbnWlgM.html Thanks for watching.
No hydraulic jack by is safe by itself. They sould only be used to lift the car so it can be supported by some other means. As far as an aluminum jack as long as you adhere to the weight limits it should be ok. I actually have an aluminum jack just for the purpose of road calls. My steal shop jacks are too heavy for me to throw in the truck. My aluminum jack is a lot lighter and easier to carry around.
Great video. I'm about to do the same setup, but with two of the Daytona extended reach floor jacks. I thought my idea was original. Using one jack without a crossbeam is tiresome. Guess you keep the other 2 jacks for single point lifting jobs? Nice, but I don't have that much free space. :) With a super setup like yours for jacks, consider upgrading those flimsy looking ratchet jack stands to either US Jacks or ESCOs. I'm going with ESCO due to the large flat rubber top base, solid locking pin, and tripod base (won't cut into your asphalt). The tops of those ratchet stands tend to damage pinch welds and won't work at all on my newer vehicles with recessed jack points. I have the harbor freight jack stand plastic covers which somewhat help for pinch welds, but not the recessed jack points. Update: just watched your Torin 12 ton stand video. Much better! but still the axle shaped top and ratchet system I don't trust. Cheers!
@@richardspaulding5035 per videos they seem to work and hold up fine unlike the cheap tops of the HF crossbeams. You could always slide in a hockey puck with a slot cut into the top as a buffer. No need to permanently attach. Press the slotted hockey puck up onto the pinch weld where it keeps place, then adjust the flat top jack stand to meet it. FWIW, a hockey puck without slot works fine for me on my non padded floor jack for pinch welds. Puck holds up and the pinch weld isn't damaged. With a slot, it would stick to the pinch weld increasing my work time by precious seconds.
Thanks Utah, I made the video because I noticed if you jack both sides at the same time the vehicle becomes dangerously unstable. This is only an issue if like me you have 2 of the crossbeams. If you have only one, it is a moot point.
I think the problem is people aren't attaching them to the jack. People seem to think they just sit in place and are not bolted to the jack. Could you please show installing BEFORE use.
Thanks for the request Mike; I had previously posted 2 videos showing the installation. Here are links to both ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-do6_PuIafBE.html and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-52PAfjWkqm0.html Thanks for watching my channel.
Yes; I agree if there is indeed a frame. With the modern unitized bodies these days most of the manufacturers recommend using the reinforced pinch welds where the rocker panel meets the floor pan. Thank you for your comments and thank you for watching my channel.
Thanks for the question Jan Harry; These crossbeam attachments are specifically made for the Harbor Freight Daytona and Pittsburg brand jacks. They may however fit others but I have no way to cross reference them. In the days to come I will post a video on the saddle dimensions and the size of the screw so people can make comaprisons.
This video reminds me that I’ve worked on unibody cars my whole life, and one time I’m in my pickup and get a complete tire blowout on the side of a busy and narrow highway. I get out and from almost muscle memory I tried to lift the truck with the pinch weld and of course it’s not part of the frame, and like a total moron I messed up the whole underside of the door member. 😂
That is one of my biggest fears Brian; I am always afraid that I will damage someone's car while attempting to lift it with jacks. I am retired now and only work on friends and family vehicles. I am not making any money in doing so and yet if I damage someone's car I will be held responsible. That actually happened to a friend's car a couple of years ago. My jack slipped off the reenforced pinch weld and crushed his rocker panel. Even thought I was working on his car for free, just trying to help him out I was obligated to repair it. Sort of high risk / no reward LOL. Thanks for watching.
@@richardspaulding5035 I don't agree you were TOTALLY responsible for the damage if you were doing the work for free. If for pay, sure. You had an accident under good intentions, and just like your good will of doing a repair for free, the owner of the car should have said no problem, it was an accident and you were doing it for free. Or at the very least, the owner should have shared in the cost/work to repair the damage.
I saw a younger coworker of mine had lifted an older Mercedes ML suv from the body. (The older ones were body on frame). Amazingly i dont remember it doing any damage! I dont think most body on frame vehicles would have handled that...
I am not familiar with that particular vehicle. I would like to say yes but I would first consult the owners manual for the recommended jacking points. Thanks for watching my channel.
I have done so. The key word is lift. The cross beam is to be used to lift the vehicle so it can be supported by some other means. Do not get under any vehicle supported by the cross beam alone. Naturally the truck must be within the specified weight limits. Use common sense, be safe.
Yes I try to stress in the videos that these are for lifting only and the car should be supported by some other means. I think back when I was a kid in the back yard. We would get under a car with a pile of tires or cinder blocks and a bumper jack. It is a wonder I survived.
UPDATE - I've just seen your explanatory video, so no need to reply here, Richard. I shall leave the comment here, though, in case anybody else has the same query but doesn't know about the other video (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QLR0UtmRrOo.html). My query was: Thanks for this - but please can you tell me why this doesn't damage the centre of the sill? Once the pad nearer the front of the car meets weight/resistance, doesn't the beam pivot slightly to bring the other pad up more and from then on both pads are sharing the load? What am I missing? I hope that you can convince me, because this would be of fantastic benefit to me if you can!
It sounds like your regular viewers are tilting at windmills. I wouldn't question the safety of a jack crossbeam, but then again I'm jacking up a Corvette and officially you're supposed to jack up the chassis, not the frame made by the body. The Corvette has a frame. The body is fiberglass. You don't jack up any point on the body. The body part would just rip right off.
I agree these are not to be used to support a vehicle. These are only to be used to raise the vehicle so it can be safely supported by some other means.
@@southpark159753 On some unitized bodies the frame rails will bend. You can throw the car out of alignment by using the control arms. Evidently, I don't have as much experience as you. I did not get started using jacks and lifts until 1969.
@M&T Well, there is always a way to create an accident, no matter where you are or what you are doing. You just have to do what you have to do the safest way possible to you. Also, like I always reply to assumptions, "If you had wheels, you could be a bicycle, but you don't". Peace
Is it a "CAAAAAAA" or CAR? Learn to SPEAK IN ENGLISH!!!! NOT NASEL SLUSH!!!!! It's like you saying its HOT out and my HOT rate is too high....NO!!!! IT's "HOT," and "HEART"
It is not English I speak friend; It's called Newenglandish. I am sure the world would be a far better place if everyone looked, talked , and acted exactly like you. NOT!!
@@richardspaulding5035 Get him Richard. I'm not a mechanic but I like the video I like your presentation it gave me an understanding of what I was trying to figure out from using a crossbeam.
