Thanks for supporting our products and buying the supplies. We've explored options but, haven't found the right concoction of adhesive quite yet. We don't want to put a product on the market that could back fire on our customers.
If you don't want a lot of build up then you should just print your design directly to a shirt using standard screen printing method. Regardless of mesh size you'll still need a thick stencil of emulsion to make this proccess work. Although, I will add that when you heat press the t-shirt at the end it does flatten out the design and make the ink fee a bit softer.
Ive learned that re-heatpressing for 2-3 seconds without the transfer paper but with a teflon sheet instead removes all excess adhesion powder residue.
Mark the screen and at the top of each section write 4 minutes, 6, 8 and 10. Produce a piece of art with type, shapes and even some halftones and place it in the 4 minute section, cover the remaining 3 sections with the black sheet; expose for 4 minutes.After the initial exposure move your art and sheet to the next section, covering the 4 minute section with a light safe sheet as well, you only want the 6 minute section exposed to your light source.
I use this method for my ebay business and it's great!! I get everything from ryonet. The only bad thing is after printing over 100 transfers a day it gets really dusty. Wish you guys had an ink that wouldn't need the powder.
Our pleasure. We mention in the video that there are multiple ways of accomplishing plastisol heat transfers, with that said we just suggest this method because, we have the most experience and highest consistency of success applying this method. Perhaps you should try buying the products listed above in the description and let us know your results. We'd love to see how your theory works out for you. Keep us posted.
Well if you already have the heat press and you already have the screen printing press then all you need is three more things. A teflon sheet for heat transferring, the heat transfer paper and heat transfer powder adhesive. I left a new link in the description titled "The Supplies You Need:"click that link and it will take you to a page with all the products you need to get started.
Best video I have found online about Plastisol Heat Transfers. I love how everything is explain clearly. You have made my brain hungry for more learning. Thank you so much for sharing.
***** ALL of their videos are GREAT!! I have tried watching others and none have been as helpful, clear and concise as theirs! Ryonet Yall have been my inspiration, coach, and supplier through silkscreeningsupplies.com!! THANK YOU #screenprintingismynewbff #cornyhashtags #imhookedforlife #nomoreoverpricednamebrandsforthisfam LOL
That's very kind of you, thank you! ❤️ Same to you, and please get scheduled for a free 1-on-1 Guidance call if you need more detailed support and heads up, we're offering in-person classes again! Happy printing to you 😎 scrnprntl.ink/FreeGuidance scrnprntl.ink/3PTkEka
Honestly wash tests we've done have shown that plastisol heat transfers last less time. Although the ink is the same you're throwing the Adhesive powder in the mix. The adhesive powder is what makes the plastisol re-stick to the t-shirt. When the adhesive powder breaks down in the wash the plastisol losses it's bind to the t-shirt. When you screen print directly to the t-shirt there's no adhesive required for the ink to stick to the t-shirt.
Its a good explanation as i was only learning the photoresist process never thought about special transfer paper just onto fabrics. But i guess once you got it transferred onto a screen you could transfer onto anything metal , glass, plastics ,...etc as long as you have the proper paints,sealers ,...etc for the type of object. Because the screen is the stencil at that point.
Willflex makes great inks, so I wouldn't doubt so. Super good brand. We just prefer the adhesive powder so we don't have to mix inks before we put it on the screen.
Nice video. We do enjoy using the Ryopaque inks in our shop. Works better on a lot of shirts instead of having to setup another screen with a white under base.
I did see another video about storing the transfer paper in a plastic air tight container. Then adding a couple of salt bags, the ones you get in a new sneaker box. That way they will last longer.
Hancock Screenprinting I have heard of these tactics before but have not personally tried them, if they come from a good source its definitely worth it, couldn't hurt much. Ryan
You can go as high as 305 @55lpi if you use a first down base like Wilflex TransClear- The ink will split from the first down 100% and also hold your fine halftone dots in place.
When I do the wash test the print stays on but the problem is that the edges slightly lift but the print is solid and on the garment. What could be the problem.
After you have screen printed the plastisol onto the paper, you then add plastisol adhesion powder. What other ways besides flash drying the image can you use to cure it, before heat pressing the transfer?
You can use only a conveyor dryer with someone standing at the end of the dryer to catch and stack the sheets or a flash. Heat guns and other solutions don't work consistently enough.
That's an adhesive base/backing (last down) like TransFlex you are referring to, where the ink sticking to the garment (wetting) is problematic. The first down bases are meant for 4 color process and spot process types of heat transfer production. Where higher mesh counts and lower stencil thickness are required..
Finally i get that you can transfer not only to fabrics but also paper. I am curious the iron on transfers you can purchases at an arts/craft store how they differ. I get you can also purchase heat transfer ink jet paper or laser paper. But this paper seems very specific to screen printing inks. I am just wondering if somebody can do a video on how the different transfer papers are made to explain why one cant be substituted for the other. Also some arts/craft iron on objects look to be the same as the screen printing paper ones. But then again there is the ink jet toner transfer paper...etc
Actually when you heat transfer a plastisol print you are only gelling the ink on top of the garment as opposed to printing the ink directly into the garment. That's where a screen printing will work better. Plastisol heat transfers are only good up to a certain number of washes where as a properly cured screen print can last forever.
Please call 800-314-639 and we'll set you up with the entire kit. Kits vary from person to person so it would be more beneficial if you called in so one of our experts could taylor make a kit for you. RU-vid has too many restrictions when it comes to linking people to products and we want to make sure you get exactly what you need.
There is a lot of argument on water-based ink completely replacing plastisol going forward into the future for multiple reasons. But whether that’s true or not, I think there is an increased interest in people wanting to do this with water-based inks. What is the differences and can’t you just replace platisol with water-based ink if you’re going to add a wet underbase to adhere the powder too and heat cure it using the same process? Why or why not?
There are a couple limitations for doing WB transfers. 1) The ink needs to be made specifically to be used as a transfer. You cant grab just any WB ink and create a transfer with it. 2) You still need to cure the ink on the PET transfer paper before transferring. Most print shops are not set up to properly cure WB transfers that last through multiple wash cycles. Which leads to the bigger discussion of: From a shop production point of view, the U.S. is based around printing plastisol. Small dryers and small autos with a single flash.
Hi there. I have a couple of questions for you. 1. What is the cleaning stuff called that you use to clean off plastisol ink off the screen? 2. Is there a special screen that had to be used to use the plastisol ink with glitter? - I bought plastisol ink with glitter cause I’m making a basketball mom shirt and I would like the basketball to be glittery, but when I was testing out the ink in a small portion of fabric the glitter was not passing through? It just stayed on the top of it. Am I doing something wrong? 3. How long do you heat press the plastisol ink? I know it has to be at 320 but how long should I actually leave it pressing for? 4. Have you used the emulsion hardner stuff before for your screens and how well did that work if so? Thanks.
Thanks for this great video! Couple of questions: 1. How many transfers do you think can be made per hour using this method? 2. When you printed the black shirt it had that white stuff on it, I guess it was the adhesive powder? How to avoid that? Maybe there are other ways to do it without a powder? Thanks
gvy88kz 1. I would say manually roughly 100-120, 2. To avoid the adhesive powder, shake the transfer paper more vigorously, or you can use a screen printable adhesive and a 3rd screen to apply the adhesive instead of using powder.
How get rid of transfer adhension powder at the blank space of papers which usually screwed up the side areas of the print after heat press. please go to 21:23
thanks for posting this video... just 2 questions here... 1. does it need the adhesion powder if the fabric is made of polyester? 2. can digital prints (inkjet-printed on transfer paper) make overprints on the white plastisol paint printed already on shirt by heat transfer?
+Tons Dean Yes, you will need the adhesion powder. I don't believe ink jet printed images can work using this process. I believe you would need specific ink jet transfer paper. Feel free to experiment, though... you might just come up with some cool results!
Curious... why the need to put marks on the pallet around the corners of the paper? It seems to me it's not important to put the paper in the same spot for each print. What am I missing?
This is to center your print on the paper and helps you watch if the paper moved or not. Just a reference point. If you use a platen tape on your platen, you can always just replace the tape when doing a different print.
+Elleirra Razalle great question! If your ink is clogging up your screen you can use a good ink degrader like supreme was or aqua wash to help loosen thing sup. Water based inks can also be broken down with water to reduce chemical usage :) Here you go: www.screenprinting.com/sgreen-supreme-wash-qt www.screenprinting.com/sgreen-aqua-wash-quart
I appreciate the reply, but this only answers part of my question. I need to know about the entire kit, including the actual Screen, the squeegee, the Ink to use, the print/stencil, etc., etc.. You only gave the papers required & adhesive powder. Where can I get a whole kit that has everything from step 1 all the way down to the end? Thanks again.
Can you choke the underbase on a multi color.....meaning will the powder glue stick to the top color when flashed. I'm wondering if the top color that bleeds over the underbase, I'm wondering if the top overbleed will stick to the shirt
Morning David and happy Wednesday. Couple different ways of basing. (i heard it on the street that there's a video coming for this exact thing) One way is to actually spread/stroke the base to be larger than the image and then use a clear instead of white. The other is exactly what you mentioned, choking the base more than normal. the top color that overhangs the base will normally grab enough of the powder to stick fine. hope this helps for the moment. Happy printing!
If the heat press or sublimation paper is smaller than the shirt itself, then yes, it will likely leave a mark. As for your question on if transfer paper will work or not, I could not say. You would want to contact the manufacturer of the 5 in 1 printer.
great tutorial , my one question is if I am doing a one color dark print on a light garment do I have to flash the print or can I apply adhesion powder right away after my print? Black print on White garment. Thanks!
+Biglsyny Biglsyny Great question. Check out this video with one of our friends from Guru Ink, in it he covers the process for making single color heat transfers. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YDnZs4M_5Tk.html
This is super tricky, but certainly possible. Use a 25m screen with a good quality glitter ink. You will likely need to go over it a few times to acquire a nice result of glitter but give yourself plenty of time. If you over-cure and don't let the ink cool before re-printing you will run into problems. Key is to be patient and charge accordingly due to the added time and knowledge. Not to contradict this excellent video, but with glitter you can do a double pass without flashing. It's the exception that proves the rule. :)
Good morning! yes, they are one use.... while i have to admit, i've never tried using them more than once. To get the best economy out of the paper, i will gang up logos, meaning if i'm doing some logos for hats or inside labels, i'll fit a bunch on the sheet and then cut them apart after printing.... Happy printing!
Good morning, @Salman Razak! The white powder is an adhesive powder that helps the ink to stick to the garment. Here's a link... www.screenprinting.com/products/transfer-adhesion-powder-plastisol-transfer-adhesive-1-lb Hope that helps.
@@Ryonet thanks for the reply, really appreciate it. I really liked the way you explained the process from start till end. I am gathering all the local info for material and accessories. Planning to start my own line of T-shirts. There is lot to learn, types, process, color grading, materials... etc Thanks again for the reply
I have a Heat Press Machine that I paid $300+ for & I would like to use a plastisol transfer paper. What is the best way to transfer plastisol onto sheet paper for a heat press transfer? What is the cheapest kit to create the plastisol to paper?
Do you have any video to print 2 colors in a polypropylene bags . You know this is very sensitive to the heat . Whatever video help screen printing directly or using transfer paper
I'm on an automatic press trying to print transfers for the first time. I have a three color design using plastisol inks and a clear underbase, and flashing after each of the first two colors. However, I'm having problems with the ink sticking to the next screen and visibly pulling from my design after flashing. I've tried different flash times, lower squeegee pressure, and off contact and have also tried switching the first two color stations. Any insights on how to fix this?
Ryonet so they are only one time usage , can plastisol printed t-shirt be iron on the face of t-shirt? does ironing will spoil the plastisol screen printed design on the t-shirt?
When you say this plastisol transfer process doesn't last as long as "Direct Screenprint." What exactly is "direct screenprinting?" Is that the same thing as Direct to Garment?
+Classy Closets Good question! What Ryan meant by "direct screenprinting" was printing directly onto a shirt using your screen printing equipment rather than creating a transfer and using a heat press to put it on the shirt. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
We don't loan out products like that. Too risky. Our suggestion would be to team up with a fellow screen printing shop that operates locally, and ask if you can use their heat press. I know of a ton of shops who operate like in that manor. It can be good for both ends as you can exchange info and geek out about screen printing and help possibly take overflow business. The competition factor shouldn't really come into play as everyone wears a t-shirt and there's plenty of work for everyone.
HI @urjnlegend ! here's a couple deep dive videos that are more recent. I believe that the clear backer in this video may no longer be offered. So these may help fill in some gaps. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tKZiUiAD2V8.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VF0HGUWwbHo.html Hope that helps!
this video helped a lot!!! Q- wouldn't making another screen for a clear underbase. or screen printed transfer glue, be so much easier and less...dusty? or is the powder giving the best results? thanks!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey there! With these heat transfer sheets, the powder is an important part of the transfer process! The transfer powder is what facilitates the actual transfer process between the gel cured ink and the shirt. The powder can be a little dusty, true, but remember that you don't need to use a lot! Just enough to cover the image, then you can tap the rest off. :)
Good question, @cynthia percell. We usually have someone internally put together the design. This video is old enough that i really have no idea, but it was probably someone in either our marketing or education dept....
Ive heard so many way to add the powder, before the cure or after the cure... I’ve done after the cure but my press takes anywhere between 30 to 55 seconds. What is the shelf life of the paper with the powered cure vs the non powdered cure?
+Darkside Graphix iheard without underbase itll crack? white n black dont crack as easy for some reason ive noticed. should i do white underbase on top of blue or just blue on blue or just one layer of ink is good enough? imight just order them theyre only 2$
can u make a video that how to make artwork like the t shirt u wear. I want to know how to separate that blue and white screen in ur t shirt. Because i think the color is seperate , its not overlapping.
I have made some screen print transfers before. Once I heat press the transfer on the shirt I have issues with the stretch test. The designs cracks. What could be the issues or does that typical happen with reverse transfers ?
What printer would you advise to use to setup your stencils? I was a screen printer for 12 years but not garment based, but I know a lot now use regular printers to make stencils, my worry is that the blacks are not strong enough, or you cannot do halftones. Any advise would be appreciated.
+Skynepsis great question! You will want to use an inkjet printer of sorts, we recommend the Epson 1430 or 4900 dependent on what you need to be printing (size and amount of prints each day will decide this usually). When it comes to getting the darkest prints and sharpest halftones, a RIP software will be needed. AccuRIP is a great one, you can find it here: www.screenprinting.com/accurip-software-for-printing-halftones-with-espon-printers BlackMAX ink is paired with AccuRIP in order to get the dark ink and sharp gradients: www.screenprinting.com/blackmax-1400-1430-screen-printing-cartridge-kit-w-chip-resetter You can also find these paired with the printer too: www.screenprinting.com/epson-1430-blackmax-ultimate-film-output-system If you would like to watch some videos on how these items are used, check out these helpful tutorials: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wyT1JyQoSUo.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aWdSDlSwsng.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-E6Pzh1oaUo0.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vu2utixyKfY.html
Hey there Danyal! Thanks for asking! Transfers can be used in a variety of ways. Their main use is for live, traveling screen printers, and for shops that do the same design multiple times throughout the year. This allows you to put the design on paper, store it/file it away, or carry it with you to a location with a heat press, like a concert. The heat press is used to actually transfer the design from the paper to the garment - effectively curing it.
I have a problem with my 2 color transfers , I am printing an American flag with a baseball cather in the middle , I am printing the catcher last so my American flag is dry when I get to the finishing point so there for I'm not able to get the powder to stay on my flag and its causing it to peel off my garment any suggestions ?
Hey there! You are probably overflashing your transfers, so the inks are curing too much. You'll need to speed up your flash process so that you don't get the inks too hot.
Nichole Reynolds - if you're flashing, powder won't stick to it. Powder needs wet ink to stick. Watch this video again, you'll see what he's doing. You're using plastisol right?
Currently we use a flash dryer to cure (in the process of buying a conveyor dryer). Is it possible to preshrink and cure the transfer paper all with a flash dryer?
Hey there! You can definitely do that. The process would just be the same, except under your flash instead of going through a tunnel. As long as you gel your ink correctly, and preshrink the transfer paper, you'll be good to go! Feel free to reach out to us at success@ryonet.com or 800-314-6390 if you have any questions about the process!
Hi Ryan great videos i want to make plastisol transfers but finding it difficult in Ecuador the transfer paper for plastisol i can get, but instead of the powdered adhesive they have given me a paste? make a pass of the paste on the screen first onto the paper then the ink , use the heat gun then ready to go, is this true do you know of this technique? then i am offered a special ink called sublimata for screen printing, with this they say i just run the ink onto the paper no need for adhesive , any advice on the first process i mentioned would be great cheers
If you are only printing on light shirts, you can use this. www.screenprinting.com/screen-printing-supplies/inkjet-transfer-paper/inkjet-heat-transfer-paper-sheet-11x17.html#.UvAPG7SDIqI
Hey there! If you're looking to get your white ink smoother and easier to work with, you can use a little curable reducer, no more than 10% added by weight, though the less added the better. You want to be careful not to add too much reducer, or you will lose opacity. Heat pressing a design will always create a softer feel than traditional screen printing, so that is another factor to keep in mind. You can find our curable reducer here: www.screenprinting.com/wilflex-epic-curable-reducer
Also, is this a cheaper alternative to going into a print shop and just getting shirts done? I own a clothing company and I have all the blank shirts myself, would it make more sense to get transfers made? I dont want to have 100 shirts already made that I cant sell. Thanks.
Smaller runs, tend to be cheaper to run on a DTG, especially if there are a lot of colors involved. Spot color jobs that have a higher quantity are cheaper to print on a press. that it would be on DTG.
Ryonet Not only that, but screen printing opens up design possibilities that DTG can't begin to match (halftones, fine art, etc.). DTG is great, if the design is relatively simple, and the run is short. Complex designs take forever to cut & weed.
Hey there! If your design is cracking after the first wash, that is usually going to be an indication of overcuring, probably during the flash or gel portion of the process.
hi Ryonet i am new to heat transfer printing, can you please tell me what type of flash cure you are using, as our flash cure taking long time to cure and eventually burning the paper. i can not see orange light of lamps on the panel while curing, so am wondering what type of flash cure you are using to dry the ink! by the way great video.
