Did mine after 10 years and a few thousand miles. No leaks, oil was still clean and insides were perfect. Although I wouldn't recommend that long, 30 hours is a joke! :)
You do not need new seals every 30 hours unless they are leaking oil. Just a clean. Had the same seals for 2 years. I do not use Fox float fluid to lube the foam wipers as some video's suggest. This stuff is sticky, expensive, and unnecessary. I don't use Fox 10wt Green either as it is too thin and wont stay on the foam rings for more than a few hours. Best thing I have found is to soak the wipers in Nulon Fully synthetic gear oil 75-90 wt, Slipperiest stuff on the planet. You can also wipe some on the legs occasionally before riding, which makes a huge difference to small bump response and eliminates stiction. It does no damage to the seals, been doing it regularly for over a year. Way better than these expensive lubes and sprays which don't make any discernible difference. Also turn your bike upside down for 5 mins before riding to get the splash oil up on the wipers.
Thanks for the tip. A quick question for you. Changing the weight of the oil will effect the damped behavior of the fork. Have you found that the higher weight oil has made a noticeable difference to your Damper and rebound performance? Thanks.
No i didnt replace thte seal, it shouldnt be too hard so no issues there. Thanks for the oil tip as well. I too didnt go for the original fox fluid and im very happy with what i used (not that i would know the differenece)
To drive out the shaft with the rebound adjustment I just used a block of wood with a small hole drilled in it. Was surprised how much rubber hammering mine required. I just changed my oil but when I do the seals I will use a 1-1/4 inch piece of 160 psi PVC pipe as the driver. Note this is 160 psi, NOT Schedule 40 which is too thick. This appears to fit perfectly vs. paying Fox US$30+ for a driver.
was gonna take my bike in to the shop and now I'm thinking I can do that and buy all the tools and stuff to service it for far less. very nice explanation. Thanks
Excellent video, and I got mine done today. Plastic drain pipes are good size for pushing the seals in. Greatly appreciate you posting this video!!! Oh, and I used Amsoil synthetic rather than the spendy Fox oil and no stiction! Smells the same.
+Alex Pavlov but he made this so it looks like we'll done for someone who has no ide (eg. he is too scared to do anything by himself so he will pay them 100$ for an oil change anyway ;)
Go to Fox's tech help chart for your specific model: RU-vid won't allow me to type a url but follow this on pages lefthand menu bar: > Service > Oil Volumes Your Float R sounds like line 27 on the chart (the same line as mine) I confirmed the 160, 30 amounts for my Float O/B as that with Fox tech rep on phone.
When I hammered out the bolts like you did oil sprayed all over the room including on my clothes, which had to be thrown out. Why were you able to do that without ANY oil coming out while on mine it sprayed out? Piece of "drift" is not a common phrase. I didn't have that tool so I used a small ratchet head but I don't believe that's why the oil sprayed out.
Seems to be a lot of criticism in the comments. I just wanna say, despite some poor practices (spinning the fork on the dowel and using a bottle brush with a metal shaft, typical Aussie "She'll be right mate!") and considering how long ago this video was made, for me it ranks as the second most relevant tutorial I've found for owners of this particular model. I have it in the 100x9QR version.
Even with a 34mm seal press tool my seals would NOT go in until I hammered each of them with a rubber mallet. It took forever trying to push it in like you did. I cut my hand when the tool slipped again and again. I don't get it.
I have an RL80 that will hold air forever just sitting but as soon as you start riding it will loose its air. Do you know what the problem is and what needs to be replaced?
I used this video as my guide, but he didn't replace the oil/fluid in the damper. Nor did he tak about the gasket at the bottom of the fork. I didn't know what it was and thought it might be something needing to be replaced. Otherwise easy to follow video.
I'd say he did this to prevent oil getting around the wiper seal bed. if this area was lubricated it could cause the Stanchion to pull the seal out on the rebound stroke, this is also why he removed any of the waxy residue that may have been on the wiper seal after production.
hola muy instructivo el video, deseo saber cuantos milimetros de aceite requiere la FOX 2014 34 FLOAT 27.5 150 O/C CTD para realizar este mantenimiento.
On every fork I've ever owned I've only replaced the seals if they were leaking or where visibly damaged (cracked, torn). If they are not damaged, I just clean them and continue to use them. Their purpose is only to help keep dirt from getting to the oil and keep all the oil from coming out. In the service docs on a previous model I had a few years back it said to visibly inspect them and change them if they need it. Now they tell you to replace the seals every time you do an oil change. Use your own judgment, but their is a great incentive for them to tell you to change the seals every time - it's interesting that they used to say only do it as necessary. If there is a problem with the seal, you will know it either with visible leaking, cracks/tears or other obvious damage/wear, and or poor performance. Don't fix it if it's not broke!
No Loctite on the rebound adjuster grub screw threads - either the act of someone who likes to live dangerously or someone who genuinely takes his fork apart every 30 hours :-P...
hola saludos tengo una horquilla fox float 32 130 de recorrido sabes cuanto aceite lleva de cada lado voy a cambiar solo los retenes ... soy de guadalajara
Yeah... my new seals are NOT going on. He makes it look effortless in this video. I'm grunting and straining, putting all my weight into it, and it will. Not. Go. On!
Huntstyle i had the same problem, i ended up RUINING £28 worth of seals, without the correct insertion tool I wouldn't recommend installing them at home. I got a bike shop to do them for me, it cost me £6, but was definitely worth it
@@philliptaylor502 try puuting them in the fridge first.. Also check you ahve the correct ones, there are older ones which are slightly bigger or smaller I cant remember :-/
That would seem more appropriate to me. Thirty hours is a week and a half of heavy training, that would be a lot of time and money spent on maintenance in a year.
