Visual guide on setting a tile redi tileable base and hooking up the PVC waste line to the base Instagram - / todayiworkon Contact - TodayIWorkOn@gmail.com
I watched this before putting in my base, and it was SO squishy that I was convinced I had failed. But I trusted you and the next day, rock solid like you said. Thank you!!!
This video was so helpful to me! I just installed my 48x48 Tile Redi base 2 days ago. I was extremely intimidated by this, but watching you do it gave me the confidence I needed. I’ve been studying your other Tile Redi videos too. You explain things so nicely. Thank you for your help! Keep up the good work!
Thank you for the video. It was very helpful. Just finished installing a 32x48 TileRedi Wonderfall Trench pan with left drain, and it is super solid and ready to tile. I used RedGuard for the waterproof layer, since I had it already, and everything feels good. I needed one bag of the mortar to set the pan (same mortar as shown in the video). I also installed the flashing, which I agree is really nice. The 1/2" cement board went in today and lines up perfectly to the pan. Also used PVC solvent/glue for the drain hookup and everything is watertight. One complaint about the pan itself is that the sides of the drain under the drain cover don't slope toward the drain, so there could be some standing water in those areas. I'll have to see how it performs on a day-to-day basis. Somewhat related, I installed the TileRedi insets also, and those look real nice. I wanted to install the Redi Ledge in the corner, but there is no way to fasten the bottom edge. The vertical wall of the ledge seems too flexible for tiling, so I chose not to install. Also, there are no clear instructions from TileRedi on how to combine the Redi Ledge and their pans.
Great video! I bought the 48"x48" and should be receiving it in a week or so. Also installing it upstairs, so the drain part was helpful too! Thank you!
Thank you for making this video. I’m remodeling my bathroom and replacing my shower. I’m doing it myself and it seems like Tile Redi might be the best way to go. Thank you.
Great hands-on video; very informative!! FYI, I recently spoke to a Tile-Redi customer service rep and he stated that the base should be set in either Type N or Type S Mason's mortar mix (which can be bought at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.) and not in "traditional" thin-set which is used to set tile in. He also recommends using MODIFIED Flexbond thin-set made by Custom Building Products, which can also be bought at any home center store, to set the tile in or an epoxy-based adhesive that they naturally sell. Like you, I personally use the epoxy-based adhesive and sleep better at night doing so! :)
I’m not sure if tile Redi wants me to say what changed in their bases(it’s actually really funny) but there’s no problem using non modified mortar under the base. I’ve used it 10 times since the change over and like this video, the base is solid. Non modified mortar is truly easier to work with over S or M type. On that note, yes, I like redipoxy as well so I can sleep at night. Good luck with your project!
Thanks for alleviating my anxiety. I've been in construction for over 30 years but I fabricated the custom woodwork for million dollar homes. I've done a little plumbing but never this. I'm ready to go.
Just set my tile redi pan with unmodified mortar it's solid now. Gonna have to shim a whole wall that the pan parallels. But to avoid tearing out existing sheetrock I may install 1/4" drywall over existing drywall to get the long wall even.
Thanks for the video, helpful to see it in the field! One question, does a mortar need to be used under the pan? Can the pan sit directly on the sub floor if it fits snuggly into the framing?
Mortar keeps the pan solid so there's no flex in the actual pan. No mortar underneath, tile cracks. Base does sit on the floor Evan with the mortar bed.
I just finished installing the tile redi shower pan and leveled it out and everything. Similar to yours I have the linear trench, I am noticing on the left side water building up. The linear trench interior I don’t think is on slope but rather straight
Well done! I DO have a question though, I put one of these in 5 years ago and plumbed from the top, however I had alot of anxiety lining up the pipe while setting the pan in mortar while making sure the pipe was fully seated, you only have a small window with the pvc cement. I'm doing another one soon, do you have any tips to make the process easier or should I cut into sheetrock from below and plumb it from underneath (more work but easier to fit pipes).
Yup, the anxiety is real. If you want a less stressful install, install from the ceiling above. If from above, make sure you have that p trap tied down so it does not flex. Good luck!
With plastic bag(vapor barrier) underneath. Same principle as subfloor. Tileredi wants the mortar to cure slowly under the base for some reason. I don't know why, BUT, I might have a test coming up seeing why they are so adamant about the vapor barrier. 😬
Great video. I am installing a 48 x 48 pan. 3 walls so 1 threshold. I want to use 24 x 48 tile installed horizontal. Would you trim end of large wall tiles and sink them all the way to bottom of pan or do small tiles on the bottom row?
Last question and I really hope this helps other viewers. The length of the pan being level I am not sure if it matters much as it has an aggressive 1.5-2 inch slope. However the width not being level about 1/8 inch would that cause water buildup on corners near drain. Does tile redi have slope around drain built in Cant tell
Excellent video and thank you. Quick question. Can you screw down 1/4 inch hardi board to the subfloor for the mortar base to set on instead of using garbage bags or roof sheets? Thanks again
No, because of two reasons. 1. The hardi board will take moisture away from the unmodified mortar. The roofing paper/garbage bags keep the moisture in the mortar so it sets up to the tile Redi system properly. You need a vapor barrier underneath the tile Redi system. 2. The hardi board would raise the floor up 1/4 which would make the step that much higher into the shower. I know it's weird just laying a water proofing membrane under the system but it just works. Lol.
Awesome tutorial! Do you have experience with installing the Redi Bench with their shower pan? I've bought their kit but it looks intimidating to install...any tips would be appreciated :)
I skip the bench and build the bench myself. My next bath I will be installing a bench with a standard tile Redi trench setup. It's actually really easy to do. I can't get into all the details here, but I'll have a video for it in 5-6 weeks.
Tile handles that load, when it’s tiled it becomes rock solid. I also questioned this years ago when installing them but after years of doing them, it became an afterthought. Nice observation!
Outstanding video! I just received my pan and I'll almost ready to install. Couple things: Did you pour the mortar to the depth specified by the directions? For example, the deepest part of my channel is 2 in so I would subtract .25 inch and pour the bed at 1.75 inches. Secondly, I didn't see that you poured the mortar past the front curb. Did I miss that? Is it not needed based on your experience. Also, I loved the Redi poxy video. I'm gonna do it! You used thin set on the rest of the base to install the tiles on the curbs? Thanks again!!!!
Correct in depth. More mortar in the back and less in the front. I'm not sure I mentioned that in the video, but yes that's correct. Correct on the curb. It's not meant to be filled. You don't really step on it and the mortar from the tile/ledge makes the curb pretty rock solid. I'm still going to use Redi poxy on the actual floor and swap to mortar on the curbing. I plan to actually do a tile Redi wrap up video to see the finished product today. Good luck with the install!
@@TodayIWorkOn Thank you! If you are ever in Colorado and need anything, let me know. I'm dead serious. I feel like I owe big time! The experiences you shared on these two videos are invaluable!
If you have to do a second floor remidel, you should have your drain measured within 1/4" before you order the TileRedi -- the drain must fit exactly with the molded TileRedi flange.
Very nice video, I just received my 36" x48" for my mom's shower. very intimidating is right, seems so cheap. I put a kbr shower pan in mine about 7 years ago and more stout than this one for sure.
What consistency do you use for the mortar? Looks pretty thin in the bucket. Looking at the redi tile instructions for the trench, I need a depth of 1 3/4” and wondering if it’ll stand up that high if it’s so thin.
About as thick as I would use to tile a 12x24. Marshmallow slack. Let it hold a 1/2x1/2 notch. It is unmodified so it’s a little less pliable compared to modified.
Great video thanks for posting, I notice the shower drain is black like abs but instructions say PVC, we just started a project using this base, do you use regular PVC cement for this? Can I use abs pipe, my house is abs.
Thx for video, question will fluid applied waterproofing like redguard and mape and other stick to pan? And how can i seal seam between pan and tile backer without using metal flashing. Thx
No to redguard or other waterproofing membranes. The only way you can have anything stick to a tile redi pan is to use the approved modified mortars or redi proxy then install the waterproofing on top. I recommend using the redi flash as it makes a lot of sense. If you still do not want to use the redi flash, tile redi recommends using bed and bath silicone.
Nice video man, very helpful! Do you know of any similar products available? I’d like to compare a few just to see my options. I’m just a weekend warrior so I’m trying to keep it simple as possible. ✌️
We are installing one of these on concrete with no subfloor of course, do you recommend putting anything down on the floor first or just the mortar? I saw a previous comment that you said to still put down a waterproof membrane. We are running into a headache getting the pan down. Thanks again!
You’re telling me! Concrete installs are true headaches! I just installed an acrylic pan today in a basement(concrete) and it sucked the life out of me 🤣. With the tile Redi system, make sure you put plastic down so you get a proper adhesion. Good luck with the project!
@@TodayIWorkOn Thank you for your fast reply, I guess we will try and lay the plastic bags down on the concrete to see how it goes. Great videos by the way!
I watched this several times and I am about ready to go for it! Just a quick question: instead of a garbage bag, could I just paint the surface with a paint primer??
As long as it does not absorb moisture and it lets the mortar properly cure, I think it would be totally fine. The idea of the mortar is to not glue the tile down but set it in place. People often confuse that with this install. The tile locks in the base, not the mortar bed.
Once you tile it, they become rock solid. It’s amazing. I’ve done both tile curbs and Marble/Quartz/Granite and the all are the same. I’ve never personally had a failure or a crack with plenty of glass installed on the threshold.
Thank you sir I've been waiting months for a video like yours but I do have two questions....What do you put under the bags to adhere them to the subfloor?Also do you think that roofing paper will work like they say in the instructions? Thank you again for your videos!
Roofing paper would also work because like the plastic, they both don't let moisture though into the subfloor. Plastic bag is just easier since I have it around all of the time and it's cheaper than buying roofing paper.
I appreciate your video very much. I am a novice in installing a shower plan, but one thing I have a question on. If I only put plastic bags under the mortar, it seems like the unit is just held in place by gravity. I think that a bond to a solid surface like the subfloor would be better (rather than something movable like plastic bags). How does the whole installed shower pan keep from moving if you install it on plastic bags?
@@TheHedgemo60 I'm getting ready to do mine and I'm not convinced on using the garbage bags. I put in new 22/32 OSB by advantech that is supposed to be waterproof so I'm thinking I can pour directly on top. If not I'd use a primer like NXT that goes with the Level Plus system but you could probably use anything that prevents moisture transfer.
Fantastic, common sense instruction! One question: After you put the thin set down and put the pan down and press it into the thin set. As it dries, will the pan "lift" ? Should you put something heavy in the pan, or maybe screw a board across to opposite studs to keep the pan from rising? Or will it not rise or 'lift'?
I used to put a couple of drywall buckets here and there when I first started to install them but realized the fins under the pan just stick to the mortar. I do put some screws in the 2x4's to keep the pan from shifting off square, but it has nothing to do with "lifting".
Looks great, but I’m a bit confused… so we need waterproofing under the mortar otherwise the wood will absorb the water from the mortar, right? BUT the way it is… the mortar binds the base to the plastic bags, not the subfloor? Why do we need the mortar then? Why not just set it snug within the studs on all 3 sides?
@@nyc777dimitris hi there, do you have the pan yet? Once you have it and you look on the bottom of it, you’ll see why you need the mortar, the mortar is not there to bind it to the floor… It’s to support it, because there are hollow spaces under it. Without mortar under the pan, it will be bouncy/spongy.
I've never had a square wall and always have to shim. I didn't know about unmodified mortartar is best for tile readi pan. Getting ready to install a tile redi pan.
This question or a variation of this question has been asked….I will be installing this pan onto a concrete slab…Is it necessary and/or is there some value in spreading the motar on top of a trash bag?
Funny you ask this. I’ll be doing a video on this same exact install in a week or two. Yes to the bag because you are setting the base, not adhering it. The concrete is porous and will suck all of the moisture out of the mortar you lay. Down.
Just got my Redi tile base 48x72. How many bags of mortar would you recommend. Also, what’s the best rule of thumb for the depth of the mortar since the ribs are at different depths.
That's a big base! Probably 3 bags. I usually have to use 2 bags with a 48x60 base. I do like using non modified mortar over the S/M because it's smoother to work with.
Does the p trap sit in perfectly to the drain on tile redy. If you didn’t have access from bottom is it safe to assume p trap should be flush with subfloor
This is a great video! The mortar volume calculations are driving me crazy. I bought 2 80lb bags of type S thinking it would be plenty, but the bag says it's good for .78 cubic feet. I'm putting in a 72x48 redi trench pan and instructions indicate i'll need about 2 inches of mortar. That works out to 6 80lb bags, that seems really high? I must be calculating incorrectly or does that sound right?
That's a big base! I bet it will take 4 bags. I know a 60x48 will take 2 full bags type S mortar. I never over fill the base and usually leave 1/2" of space for mortar to move around the fins. The last thing I want to to is over fill the base and have issues. A little under filled IMO works well. The fins on the bottom are what holds the base super strong, more than filling up the entire space. I have tested this out and that's what I found. Good luck with the install!
I spoke to tile Redi and confirmed unmodified mortar is fine. In the past 6 months TileRedi redid their formula on how their off the shelf bases are made and type N or S is preferred but the unmodified mortar "should be fine" and on this application it's rock solid. Remember, unmodified mortar is basically N or S mortar. They all fall under unmodified.
We have a tile shower already but we believe the shower pan maybe compromise, instead of just making a new shower pan can I just demo out the old shower pan install one of these?
I just installed one of these bases and I don't think I got it in the mortar good enough. I have a tiny amount of flex in the middle of the pan. Like 1/32nd it I can barely tell its flexing. Will this stiffen up with the epoxy enough or should I be tearing it out and starting over? Not too impressed I put alot of unmodified down took my time and I'm just not happy with the way it went. Feels solid as hell but if I set something in middle of pan and lean it against wall and step on pan I can get it to flex that little bit. Pretty frustrating. Trying to save money and not hire out and if I have to tear pan out it's gonna cost me the same as if I hired it out.
1/32” should be ok. The epoxy is really really good. If I saw it I could say if it’s ok or not, but 1/32 is so slight, the redipoxy should stiffen it up real good. Did you happen to step in it a lot when you set it?
No I never stepped in it I just pushed on it hard and moved it around like you do. Thanks alot for the reply. I will use the epoxy. What do you think about epoxy grout?
I have a plywood subfloor that I am going to add a 1/2" tile backer board (like Durock) to before tiling the bathroom floor. In that case should I install the backer board under the shower pan area as well?
You can't use thinset for a tile Redi base, unless it's the black custom base I have installed in one previous videos. This pan requires the redi poxy which I'm also going to do a video on.
Hi Wesley, It looks like the tile Redi base now can use a modified thin set mortar. This change is less than a year old. I'm actually calling Tile Redi to confirm, BUT this is a very recent event on the standard bases. I might have to do an updated video on this.
Hey my shower trench sits to high. Any idea what I should do so my water drains properly! Probably 1/8 to high Should I just use a scraper and tile mortar (modified)to float it level and dry?
The tile is super thin and the trench sits too high? I can’t visualize it. Send me an email of a pic and I can understand it better. We can figure this out.
Thanks for the vid, If you were planning on Schleuter Ditra for the floor tiles, would you install this unit above a Ditra Membrane or set the pan above the subfloor only? Thx
I can answer questions peeps just installed 60x48 and there is some info missing here you might want to know. Ask Away! I placed river rock mosaic tiles on pan.
Installing a 60x42 base with center drain soon, on concrete. Did you install on concrete? Any tips for fitting the drain? Or anything else, I'd be happy to hear. Thanks!
The Tile Redi base I bought recently(60x32 with Trench Grate) has a curb which is only 2.5 inches wide. My threshold marble piece is 6 inches wide. Do I need to cut my marble piece. How my inches would you recommend to narrow it ?
Yes, the smaller redi trench bases have smaller thresholds. I usually tile them and use schulter jollies. In the next few days, i’ll have a before after video to see how it looks. You can also check out the how i install a trench to maybe see it, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I7onGCLJVHk.html If you do decide to cut the marble, tile the sides first, then cut the marble. Good luck with what you are working on!
In your video(s) you strongly recommend using un-modified mortar (Thin Set for concrete floor)… Tile Redi days use N/S type mortar (Brick mortar)…you mention being dissatisfied with the “S” version…Are the N/S un-modified mortas? Iam clueless on this subject and that is the reason for questions..TY
Correct. All 3 are unmodified, it’s just that tile redi changed its wording so people don’t install “modified” mortar. That was a big issue years ago when they just said unmodified. The S/M mortar clears up the confusion. Unmodified mortar is just fine.
It’s actually just black 3mil garbage bags to keep the moisture from leaving the mortar when laid down. Tile Redi wants a waterproofing material on the subfloor so the mortar does not dry out into the subfloor and cures properly.
I noticed that if I order a "custom size" from tileready, I will have to use modified thin-set. Also the pan is black. Have you install this type before? Thanks
Yes I have. I have a video for it, but I don’t get into much detail. I’ll link it to my next comment. The base is solid and heavy. You are correct on using thinset modified mortar. It sticks like a big tile.
So with your video help, I got the pan installed fine. Next step, installing wall panels. I was assuming I could use Wedi Board panels. I bought 7 of the panels and the tubes of Wedi adhesive. Then it accused to me, can I even use Wedi panels with Tile redi pans. Will the tubes of Wedi adhesive stick to the tile redi pan? I was ready to start and I thought I better find out if the pan will work with the Wedi adhesive?? I already bought the Wedi panels but I need to know if the adhesive will work? I hope so the panels cost $450....ouch!
@@TodayIWorkOn I know they butt up perfectly but the Wedi adhesive is suppose to "glue" the Wedi panel to the Redi base, so I'm wondering if the Wedi adhesive will work with the material the base is made of? Thanks again...
@@billrose4286 I honestly have no idea! Lol. I know kerdi fix and the wedi adhesive basically sticks to anything, so, I can see it sticking. There’s only 1 way to find out. 😬
Question: I noticed the thinset mortar you are using, the label says "for use over concrete floors" and you are over plywood. Can you clarify that for us as it raises questions.......I am doing the exact same install and really appreciate your input.
Subfloor needs a moisture barrier when installing the mortar to bed in the tile redi base. The mortar never touches the plywood. I have quite a few videos going over the bedding in of the tile redi base.
Thanks for the reply...... this is in my first tile base and I am installing it in my personal home. I needed that clarification to set my mind at ease. Thanks man
Correct. Old directions specified “unmodified” mortar. New directions say S or N. I like using unmodified tile mortar because the bags are smaller and I like how it feels. It’s a personal thing. You can use any of the 3 and it will set up really well.
Ok so my base threshold is off level by 3/4 of an inch and I'm not sure what to do here!! It is sloping to the trench drain. Any way I can flush it up so my doors will be level?
Build up your mortar and install the tile/threshold level. You can do a scratch coat of mortar and level it off then let it dry, then install your finish material. That’s what I would do. 3/4” is a lot, you want to minimize that as much as possible.
I installed a tile redi basin and i left the middle a bit too high. So the pan is almost level in places, is there a way to remedy that without tearing it all out?
Too high in the middle? Did you flex the base on the ends at all? I would need to see a pic, if you would like, email me a pic. My email is in the description.
My wife and I are planning a bathroom remodel, and I came across the Tile Redi pans. Thanks to your videos I’m feeling confident we can handle the installation. I just have 1 question. Do you ever back butter the bottom of the pan before setting into the mortar bed?
Compared to a simple pvc liner pan? I think about it this way, I'll never get a call back on one of these compared to a rubber liner that can leak over time. If you add time, almost a wash. Nominal on a 20k bath.
@@jasonbowman7190 you need a moisture barrier to slow down the unmodified mortar from curing quickly. Check out my playlist on all things tileredi. I go over almost every question most people have with this system. Good luck with the install!
@Today I Work On I see, I've been installing self leveling concrete and it requires a primer to help the concrete stick, and to keep the concrete from drying out. I may try that. 👍
Great video - thanks! When you don't have access from below, do you have any tips to quickly get the pipe aligned and get it into place before the glue cures on the pipe? I'm going to be working with a 71 inch long pan and I'm concerned it will be awkward to get it in place, the drain aligned, and pressed into the mortar before the pipe glue cures.
Use liquid soap and test fit 2-3 times. Measuring is your friend here. I usually give the waste pipe 1/4" of play left and right but make it solid underneath. It will be a 2 person job for sure to lay the system. I've done it solo, but it's not fun.
Jim, I hope this helps. I installed 42 x 60 myself over concrete with the mortar bed per Tile Redi instructions. Like you I had no access from below. But mine has left end channel drain for which the pan does not have gaps between the ridges for the length of the channel. The mortar bed wouldn’t seat as needed leaving the drain stub too short, so I had to pull the pan (twice) to clear the mortar from under the channel portion before I could get the drain to seat properly. I had to reapply solvent each time and pulling it back out after partially bedding it in the mortar was a bear. All good in the end though - just trying to save the next guy some grief.
Big question. I just barely installed my ready tile shower pan today and due to how new I am at this, I have a couple areas under my shower pan that did not get full contact on the mortar base. It is almost cured now but you can see when you touch the shower pan inside that it does not have a firm base underneath. Do you know of any way that I can fix that?
Is it 100% cured? Let it totally harden and see if it will move. If the base moves, that means your tile might pop. There’s not real fix to a base that moves other than you have to rip it out and reset it. I hope that’s not your case. 😞
@@TodayIWorkOn it is 100% cured. The base itself is fine. The problem is that there are some hollow areas underneath the shower pan. Most of it is within about a foot of the drain. My thought was to poke a hole and feel the cavity with either some non expanding foam so that it would create a solid surface and not flex so much and then repair it with a PVC repair kit since that's what I understand this material is made of. Any thoughts?
@@bwgordon13 does it have a lot of flex? If it's minimal, I would not drill any holes in the pan and use redipoxy to install the tile... you should be OK, but I would have to see a video of the movement to know for sure.
Great video but I can't figure out what mortar to use. I've had 3 different types of mortar I purchased and non of them actually give the info I'm looking for for UN Modified mortar. The Tile Redi instructions say to use any one of several Mapei mortars. One is LFT and several others Mapei makes. But non of them say UN modified on the bag. My back hurts from lugging bags of cement home. Please give me a brand name of what you recommend and the specific type of mortar from that brand you think I should get...Many thanks Bill
Unmodified is for the BOTTOM on the pan to set it! You need to use the approved MODIFIED mortars for the actual tile laying. I'm glad you asked, lol. It can be a little confusing. I hope my message helps you out.
@@TodayIWorkOn I guess I was still confused. I bought the Mapei large format floor and wall white, because that's what it said on the Appendix A page that came with the base. So that's for the tile, not for to set the base to the floor? I still can't find the N or S type mortar except in Lowes in the 90 pound bags. Is that what I need to mount the base to the floor? Pardon my questions. I just want to get this right. It's an 850 dollar base that I don't want to screw up.
@@billrose4286 To set the base- Unmodified Mortar or N/S type mortar. unmodified mortar will be in the tile section and it’s the cheapest stuff there. Usually around 7-8 bucks. I still use unmodified because i didn’t like how the S/M bags were so heavy and didn’t like how it applied. To set the tile- Approved UNMODIFIED mortar OR redipoxy.
OK so I bought 6- 40 pound bags of Quikrete Mortar mix type N. Now did I get it right to set this shower pan? I have help for Sunday because this pan is big 48" X 60". Two quick questions> did I get the right mortar? Did I get enough? I watched your video for the 10th time and it indicates you used 2 - 5 gal pales, is that correct?
@@billrose4286 that sounds like plenty of N mortar to set the bed. Listen carefully, when you set the mortar in, the base will feel squishy! Don’t stress out about it. Let it set up and the next day you will be amazed on how solid the base will be. Aim for about 2” of coverage to the rear of the base and 1 1/2” closer to the front. You got this!
Love your videos, but , please show how you put shower pan on mortar and adjust it. The shower step is much more deeper about 5-6 inches than other area of the shower. I wonder how it gets all the way to the top full of mortar. I mean on the step sides should be 5 inch of mortar. Can not understand it,
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-B652ExFmc7A.html Yes and no. The gravel helps keep the 2" pipe in place when setting, but yes, it's a little harder.
Can I just use a mortar mix for the bed? Cause that’s what I bought. Plumber will be here Tuesday to correct the drain and we will set it at that time. The tile redi basin just doesn’t feel very substantial to me. I dunno.
@@jeffallen7923 mortar has to be unmodified. You also need enough mortar to make sure the base is set in a solid manner. Lastly, make sure you have a vapor barrier on the subfloor. The plumber is going to LOVE setting this up. Lol. Good luck with it.
@@jeffallen7923 O no... you need unmodified or you will be ripping up that base. It's in the directions. This is the biggest reason why the base will fail on the initial install and it's an expensive mistake! www.tileredi.com/media/pdf/instructions/tileredi_install_instructions_pans_20220616.pdf Also, don't forget the plastic bag on the subfloor. The modified mortar is a super hard no, I'm glad you made a comment!
@@TodayIWorkOn all I have is ABS pipes running into my single wide mobile home can I use the abs cement than ? Thanks for the response your life saver just barely cut the 6x6 borehole in my subfloor . If I used hardieboard on top of my subfloor will that b fine ? Didn’t want the floor to soak the water when I pour my mortar thunder
You can use abs to pvc. It works just fine on every connection according to the directions. Also, use the plastic bag and staple it. Hardi will absorb the unmodified mortar and you might have an issue. If you have to use a reducer, use it, you have no choice.
Yes, every tile redi base(including my own) have glass. They silicone the holes and it’s water tight. I’ve never had a leak and I can check mine anytime in my basement.
@@TodayIWorkOn Thanks! I just picked up my tile ready pan today. It has a powdery residue that comes off on my hand if I rub my hand across the surface, is that normal? From the pictures I had guessed it was a hard smooth plastic throughout the material, but it feels like it has a foamy/light (but solid & hard) character to it.
Another dumb question. (I'm a 40 year HVAC man, NOT a plumber! ha!) How does the shower drain vent? sinks have a vent riser that goes up through the roof, correct? how do shower drains vent? After the shower drain Ptrap... won't it vapor lock without a vent?
Now, that's a loaded question, lol. Waste is vented in a vertical stack to the closest wall. All code does vary. In PA for example no vent is needed up to 8' from a fixture. A horizontal pipe does not "vapor lock" with proper pitch. A pro plumber on YT can probably get into more detail for sure. If not I can make a video and get into it.
@@TodayIWorkOn OK, I do understand about you saying "A horizontal pipe does not "vapor lock" with proper pitch" the "vent" is happening at the top length of the pipe, because the water draining is typically not more than half way up the horizontal level of the pipe. I get it now, thanks! And yes, of course local codes and an expert plumber will know the deeper science/physics of it.
Where is the video on how to set it on mortar? This is just an ad video about the pan itself. Need video how to install and set it into mortar on plywood floor
Cut subfloor or concrete open, measure twice and cut once on the 2" line. Dry fit using dish soap, dry fit again to make sure it's good. Close subfloor, then apply mortar. Right before you drop the base, hit the waste lines on both the base and plumbing with primer and glue and drop that sucker in. It's a little harder with no ceiling access, but I have done it a dozen times like that. The tile Redi base is your friend on measurements.
@@gmc310 I set up the trap and the stub up to the base. I check the connection by using soap, do 2 dry fits then drop the mortar down and set it. Lol. It's a little Harder and stressful not doing it from the bottom but I have done it plenty of times. I've perfected it, but again, not easy!
Hey man I'm setting my pan today so I made a quick video for no access from the bottom hack I hope you like it I shout out twice to you but I did screw up your channel name sorry for that
I just bought a mobile home and my plumbing has to be done from on too of the floor. My crawl space doesnt allow me to get to my master bathroom. Our drain pipe is above the floor lol
I stalling plastic between mortal and plywood u screwed all job next time install a piece 1/4 backer using water proof screws and liquid nail and waterproof and them u install mortal on a solid surface
