How to Set Air Pressure / Air Volume for a HVLP or RP Spray Gun with SATA 

Dave Sinclair Yes, I think you are right. I mentioned this above to another person, but with my limited understanding of flow through a medium, turbulence is created at restrictions, and the HVLP gun is likely designed for turbulent flow ONLY at the nozzle. Any turbulance before that is added to the nozzle, which is undesired and not originally intended in the design.

Dave Sinclair What about leaving the gun side regulator wide open just so you can read pressure, while still regulating it at the tank? Or is that still fairly restrictive?

Lou Kingman Your idea would work - think of the hose as the float bowl of a carburetor - in that it creates a reserve of pressurized air to be used as needed. Logic tells me there's no difference - but I just sprayed a 911 and I have never had a better flow of clear -- just like liquid candy.

well back in the old days, everyone painted with a siphon gun with maximum fan, and maximum material- needles backed all the way out to the stop- and regulated the pressure at the wall on the shop air. so this guy is not telling us anything we weren't doing since 1910 painting model T's with antique Spraco siphon guns with an .086" tip. he's basically telling us, treat the HVLP or RP gun like a conventional. and if you look around enough, you'll find out a lot of guys are pumping their HVLP gun pressures up to 60 psi- well that's not HVLP anymore, it's conventional masquerading as HVLP. true HVLP is a bleeder gun with constant air coming from the cap, and material bled into the airstream when trigger pulled. and the air supply is from a turbine, and paint from a pressure pot. that is true HVLP. we were all sold a bag of goods, i.e. a bag of bs- when they foisted these HVLP guns upon the industry. and the painting industry took the bait, hook line and sinker, and even swallowed the pole. they got everyone to throw away their trusty reliable Binks 7 guns they had since 1937, to buy new $500 HVLP guns that don't paint for crap.

What i do i have a regulator and filter on the wall i turn the regulator down to 80, then by the time its get through the hose to the gun its the exact pressure i need. to easy.

MOTIVATED PAINTERS I agree Gabe. I have been trying to convince the shop I work at to re do our air lines and hoses with high flow fittings and to put regulators on the wall. They think I'm crazy for wanting to don't this. I plan to show them this video in the morning I'm glad I found it. Lol

The SATA 4000 in his hands is a HVLP

i have devilbiiss flg 5 which is transtech not hvlp basically conventional but everything he says here makes any gun work better

I was thinking the same

What i understand from the video is that you can leave a gauge/regulator at the gun while spraying, but leave the reg as open as possible. Use it only for finetuning. Do the major adjustment on the wall.

Definitely a larger tank will help a lot. Also be sure to use High Flow fittings, so you don’t have further pressure restrictions, and volume restrictions. If you add a 200 gallon tank, you should be able to get by. However, what I don’t know, is how large of parts and pieces, or are you painting full cars. If full cars, you will need a larger compressor. If doing this for a profession, at least 7 hp to 10 hp. If as a hobby, the 5 hp compressor will be enough, but be sure it has a large storage tank, perhaps at least 60-80 gallons of storage.

exp -tary I usually leave it at 40 psi unless you have a fresh air mask would need at least 60 psi

Sounds like the air valve seal is either worn out or dirty. Disassemble air valve to clean or replace the seal. Carefully inspect the "seat" inside the gun where the air valve seal sits to make sure that it is clean as well. If this area isnt clean, it will allow air to bypass the seal even if the seal itself is in good shape.

The guns now are much better than the NR95 you gotta be moving I run close to 80% overlap as well even basing metallics. The sata 5500 is a bad mofo gotta be moving and grooving with the base and clear you can choke the fluid down a bit on the clear gun and get a good finish either way

@@rickybyrd660 I just bought a digital 4000 RP 1.3. I didn't like the NR95. I continued to use my 1.4 Jet90 back then. I really like how my minijet 3000 hvlp and my new 4000 RP 13. spray.

@@CarbonGlassMan that’s a good gun I wasn’t a big fan of the 5000 but the newest model is hands down the best base gun I’ve used. It makes metallic laying and blending easy. I used the hvlp 1.4 on the 5500. If I had a good downdraft I’d be using the rp for clear. I’m using an lph400 with a 1.4 atm. Also the new Satas have a 0 and an I tip. I liked using the 0. If you like that mini jet then you’d probably really like the lph80 with a 1.2

@@rickybyrd660 I owned an lph400 Iwata before and loved it. That's one of the guns that got ruined. That was a really nice spraying gun. I have an older downdraft booth here with a bake cycle. I'm a mold maker now, making fiberglass and carbon fiber molds for the race industry so most of my painting now is just spraying clear coat on carbon fiber body panels. I do sometimes spray base coat too on my plugs that I plan to make the molds from but I just stick with black base to show any imperfections. I do miss painting cars. I was pretty good at melting clear in on C pillars.

they are talking about the quarter inch high flo which comes in at 0.351 in milton fittings 3/8 is 0.375 so pretty much the same but fit on the gun

@@les1ed Thanks!

Nope... Choking down at the gun changes performance. It's been proven by every gun manufacturer and paint company

Thanks for your reply, @@Collisionhub. If you check the statement I made more carefully, you'll see that I was talking about the pressure being reduced prior to the gun and not at the gun itself. If the pressure is too high, then quite obviously it needs to be reduced, right? I'm contending that it doesn't matter where that's done prior to the gun.

it matters a lot where it is set im not being rude and hope you dont take it that way you should rewatch the video if you set at the wall and use the hi flo fittings you will get a better job everytime try your settings both ways his way will give you a better paint job

@@Collisionhub I didn't say to choke it at the gun. I said that I did the restricting prior to the air entering the gun, not at the gun itself, which I kept fully open. Notwithstanding, nearly 6 months ago I made a major change in my spray booth setup and mounted a high-quality air pressure gauge at the wall. I then removed all the mini air gauges from my spray guns. By having a shorter gun (by not having a regulator nor any filter hanging on the end of my handle) it improved my ability to get into and around the insides of cabinets - which is what I spray (I'm not into automotive work). Then, to give me a better idea of what pressure loss my 20', 3/8 ID hose and high flo quick disconnects were imposing, I installed a mini-gauge at the base of my favourite gun - Fuji Spray's LX-20 HVLP model - and went through several tests to see what the pressure difference would be. In all my tests, the pressure loss was 1 PSI. Wanting to see if that equated to the same pressure loss at the aircap, I swapped out the aircap on for one that had a mini-air gauge tapped into it. That additional step confirmed again that I was consistently losing 1 PSI.

@@les1ed thanks for your opinion. Please see the response I just gave to @Collision Hub regarding the upgraded spray booth, which now enables me to set the pressure at the wall.

Definitely the wall

Best thing to do is get rid of your regulator at the gun and just depend on your air makeup unit...don't forget to subtract 5psi for every 20 feet of 3/8" air hose. If you need to adjust, adjust pressure on the wall.

well put. you understand the subject. its funny how other guys just look at as psi is psi. thus not understanding volume vs. psi. cracks me up some people are hard headed. xD

+David Ocampo psi is psi. and cfm is cfm

highvelocity123 v

@@latouselatrec except they directly affect each other

Dan Patch hook any gun up with 100 psi and you're going to blow a lot out of the gun. We've been begging techs for the last 10 years to store guns dry for that reason. We see it over and over. No one wants to invest any amount of money in a quality gun and see it ruin.

The money i spent there should be NOTHING on the gun made of plastic.Those Adam II docks cost as much as some paint guns and there made of PLASTIC.How much do they save by using plastic instead of Aluminum or brass.

I am using a regulator at the gun . But it will still have max pressure when you plug it in .So i am suppose to turn the wall regulator up when blowing the car off and then turn it down to spay.Or have 2 hoses.The Adam II dock cost as much as some pretty good guns cost and you make it out of PLASTIC.Probably would have cost $0.75 more to make it out of metal . Were is the quality in that.

your wall pressure for the gun (in the booth) would never go above what you need to have the right pressure at the gun factoring in your drop by feet of hose. So I'd have maybe 36 to 40 at the wall to have 24 to 26 at the gun. you wouldn't blow a car off a car in the booth so it's not an issue. A variety of components work together to lighten the gun. It makes the painters life easier... less fatigue and more cars per day.

sorry but HVLP is not conventional ,conventional are the older high pressure guns ,RP AKA compliant is a hybrid solution between HVLP and conventional high pressure which gives superior atomisation at a higher velocity although still not as fine as the older conventional guns

Tahsin Ali if you will visit the SATA.com website and select your country/region it will tell you the authorized distributor and list all their contact information.

Thank you so much. I'm really interested in Sata spray guns. By the way, I see some Sata productions on amazon.com. Do you think Sata has online store?

Tahsin Ali SATA does not allow online sales of their products. There are a lot of fakes on Amazon and eBay.

You have to sell your soul to the devil

+Hirider stonehead You want a solid air pressure that's coming from the wall to atomize your spray or clear . You don't want a 120 psi gets stuck in your gun behind your air valve because your air setting will only have a very short distance to travel to the air cap. So, if your air setting is 30 then you want that 30 psi to have enough distance to travel so it will have a strong momentum by the time it gets to your gun.

thank you very much my friend.

exactly

I think a simpler answer is the air micrometer on the gun is for fine-tuning. You get the air pressure close to what you need (a little more to allow for pressure drop because of the hose) at the wall, and then adjust it as needed at the gun.

pretty sure she was trying to refer to the breathing example....

With his facial expression, I'm sure he wasn't excited about that.

I know exactly what you mean...and I would say that if you have to paint as close as 5 or 6 inches to a panel, you rapidly increase the likelihood of metallic streaks if you are not exactly perpendicular because at that close range it's not very forgiving. I'm glad I no longer have to earn a living in auto body.

That "man" was a woman😁

deby chen uggly ass :P

Frank Gadman If you will look in your Manuel it says that any time the air distribution ring is removed you must replace it. You can buy a pack of 3 for around $25 bucks here where I live.

Derp.