How to Sharpen A Ripsaw Pannel Hand Saw 

Thanks John. Glad I could help.

sounds like fun. looking forward to saying hi.

My pleasure. Glad I could help!

thanks man!

thanks!

+David Dorothy I use to set it that way too. Paul does a great video on it.

+The WoodWorking Junkie just make sure the teeth are not hardened LOL thanks man.

Thanks man! and congrats on the write up.

Sweet thanks. Just got your email!

Thanks. I am working on it. still have a long way to go though.

I keep it on the table so I can call it a table saw. thanks!

Lol

my pleasure!

TOO MUCH FUN!! sounds like a fantastic find!

THat is just with Large felling saws. with panel saws they are all flat plate. would love to see what you do with it! thanks for the comment as always.

sorry, I must have missed that one. thanks. here is the link. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vG-DULSw6Zk.html

That one is on my list, but I don't know when. Paul Sellers has one that covers it nicely.

Nice. That is quite the hall. Sounds like the perfict saw.

+The Divine Hammer's Woodworks thanks. I love working with my great-great grandfather's tools. It's always fun to shake hands with an ancestor. I do wax saws but I do that in the course of using them not just when I sharpen them. I may apply lubrication 6 or 7 times between sharpenings.

yes I do it as well, pretty much every time I grab my hand saws I give the blades on the saw a quick coat, and when I store them for a while a quick light coat of WD-40 or light weight oil is applied, not only does it keep rust from happening but also helps to keep resins from gumming up your blades if the wood is still kinda wet. I do this to my planes and chisels as well. since all my tools are strictly used in the basement workshop it's over kill, but a little prevention goes a long way to maintain these family heirlooms, so I can pass them down to my kids in the future. I'm the 3rd generation to have and use these tools and hopefully many more generations of my family will enjoy the use of them as well.

you can try over bending it the opposite direction. if that works then great! if not the only other way is 5-6 hours with a peening hammer and anvil and you may never actually get it straight. in all honesty, if I find them with a bend or kink I turn them into card scrapers and get another saw.

Hammer setting is an art that requires a LOT of practice to do well. I would suggest seeing when the next tool meet is around you. most all of the MWTCA meets will have several sellers with buckets of them for $2-$5 each. here is a map of known tool sellers that might help. drive.google.com/open?id=1kmCeWv7lZUTbcNoKEG1ff5XjcKUfMwLf&usp=sharing&#x20

Matching the blade turn existing saw frame is almost impossible unless you knew the original maker of it. They're not standard in any way. there are two companies I know of right now that makes him. One is Blackburn tools. And the other is bad Axe tool works.

Wood By Wright I should’ve thought of bad ax i just got my $4.00 yard sale 10in disston back from them , they retoothed it for me , they did a great job with it thanks ill shoot them an e-mail

Feel free to send me some pictures. My email address is jameswright@woodbywright.com

depends on how bad it is, but any ware from mild soap to scraping it off and re finishing it.

size is determined by the depth of the gullet you want the file when it is in the gullet to be slightly more than twice the height of the gullet. that wat the tip of the tooth does not touch the center of the side of the file. the coarseness will be adjusted to the file size. so I never look at the numbering I just chose a file to fit that tooth size. does that answer your question?

Yes, thank you! Where do you get the files?

Usually you get a heavy dust that falls very quickly on the other side. You generally only get chips when you're working with sauce larger than 2 PPI. I have a resawing video that shows the dust coming out the back side of it. I'll have to look it up and see if I can get you a link.

Here you are. It's around 11 minute mark. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dPgVYTwQ5Wc.html

@@WoodByWright I'm getting dust. I don't think I have as few teeth on my saw as you do, but it is a similar Disston model, has the way cool extra hole for the other hand. My saw isn't that deep, either. But I am still looking at 6 TPI or so. I wish I knew how a sharp saw behaved so I could gauge the extent to which the issues are the saw and which are related to the nut behind the handle. Thanks for the videos!

Lol yup. Currently on the border of WI and IL

@@WoodByWright Cincinnati Ohio here. So plenty of excuse me, sorry and ope! here as well.

+Not only Wood I might be interested. Send me a message.

+Wood By Wright Alright I just upload the drawing of my giveaway

sweet!

that is a big debate between different saw sharpeners but if you set them first and the teeth are not similar highs to begin then you will end up with more set on one side then the other. but if you set then all the same after sharpening then they should all move the same amount. at least that is the sharpening camp I am in. others will argue the other way. but one thing they all agry with is if the teeth are all uneven to begin with you do not est until you cut them all the same depth. like on this every other tooth was higher and setting first would make it curve the cut drastically at the end. Sorry I did not mean to type so much. LOL maybe I should do a video some time testing the two methods. that sounds like fun. thanks for the idea.

Here's why teeth should be set after sharpening and not before. The process is almost as James shows you. First, check to see if the saw is Breasted (The teeth run in a curve with the middle of the run lower than either end when it is cutting. More likely on longer saws.) Second, Joint the teeth as James shows you. A good project is to take a worn out file and make a wooden case so that the centre of one side of the file is open to use. As you hold the wooden case to do the Jointing you are keeping your fingertips away from the sawblade tips. Third, sharpen the teeth exactly as James shows you in the video. Fourth, Stone the burrs, which James mentioned off both sides of the blade, running a slipstone along the teeth, just missing the Points of the teeth. You couldn't do this if you had already set the teeth. Fifth, apply the Set to the teeth, evenly on alternate teeth. A saw cuts a Kerf (width of slot) which is wider than the thickness of the blade or plate. This is to reduce the friction and allow the teeth to do the work. If you get all these right your saw will cut the way it was intended to, without you putting any more energy into sawing than to move the teeth backwards and forwards across (with no T) the wood.

no it does not. but for ripping down long boards it is unstoppable.

+Rick L I have one in the garage because it kept getting in the way in the shop. I only have 3' between bench and tool shelves. But I have sessions for one in my head that just might work.

........understood..........maybe a fold down on the existing bench....?

Stop reading my mind! it would be a lot easier then climbing up on my current bench. that is always fun!

the teeth on the file are a lot like the teeth on a saw in that they cut in one direction. if you pull it back it is more wear on the file and will go dull faster. if it is a burr file or a diamond file then there is no direction. but most traditional files do have a cutting direction.

A file tooth is shaped sort of like a cresting wave. Lots of material at the back, but under the tooth is a significant hook. There is a huge amount of material backing the sharp edge of the tooth, but pulled in the opposite direction, the tooth hangs over a hollow area. When you drag back, the edge of the tooth just gets bent down into the hollow and doesn't cut anymore.

every set has different numbers so I can not tell you what it is on yours. if it is a 4ppi or larger I set it 75% of the way to the most set. if it is 16ppi I set it on the lowest set I can. everything else is in between.

@@WoodByWright ok thank you that is a little better than the books

But now I do, because mine is Resting in pieces . . .

Lol nice.

I wish. You can usually pick these ones up for 10 to $15. I have a few that are very collectible and several hundred dollars worth each.

I do half from one direction then the other half from the other side. this way there is the same amount of Bur on both sides of the plane. if you push them all one way it can cause the saw to co off track the first few times you use it as all of the burr is on one side of the plate.

Lol I like.

you are so the man!