After seven years of intensive use, my HS81R's have only needed sharpening twice. First time was in the shop, second time I did it myself with a hand file. Actually enjoyed it with a few beers in the shed /workshop!
Try Fluid Film on the cutter blades. It dissolves the sap, and lubes them better than WD-40, and it smells great too. It's a great rust preventative and won't harm plants.
The product arrived undamaged and in a great looking box all parts of the kit were present ru-vid.comUgkx010hhy8hzepHnne4VtzOtUictDZeYMTF and I can't wait to use it. I'm most impressed by the fact that it's a five piece kit, of great monetary value in that you can get this all for such a price. With this my former grip strength will come back and then some. I'm already starting notice a bit of a difference after using it for a bit now, and the stress ball and doughnut shaped grip designed to be carried in the pocket have helped in reducing my stress levels as of late. Would definitely recommend!
If you use the air grinder on the flat mating surfaces, you're making gaps in the metal where they won't mate flush & pinch the stems instead of cutting sharply
I agree with Jeremy if you did this another way...it was half assed. The only thing I do differently is I use a scotchbrite roloc on the backside instead a grit pad. If it's not taken apart to be cleaned the machine just missed a major part of the service. All of the crud between the blades makes the engine work harder. Can't wait to see the half ass way next.. if he ever posts it.
It's a tedious task, but well worth it. If they become too dull they start ripping the branches and then ( I have found) the bush gets a hacked on look and leaved bare spots that take a while to green over again.
hi , what is bers ? i think an angle grinder is the best, and what you need to take of if you cal it a ber is the rounding of the bottom part of the blades , i think you should show it in closeup . basically no need to take out the gear but its a good idea, i think it can be ok also to flip the connecting rods, . that's a real good gear you have there but many gears like echo tanaka and so have very thin pins that need to be replaced together with the connecting rods frequently and that is a nother story ...
Damn mine doesn't like to move that fast without building up for probably 3/4 of a second or without stressing the motor slightly too. You really got that one as good as possible I believe. I don't have that tool you used so can I use a orbital sander or grinder? If so would the smaller one be better than the 6 incher. I also have a belt sander and the oscillating kind. I have never seen those for my 3/4 inch corded low RPMS 8 amp drill? I already know the sawzall is out of the question unless I wanted to turn them into scrap metal. I have a sealed blasting box and the compressor to use it but don't know if I should go there and my longer blades wouldn't fit. The small angle grinder makes me a bit leary tho since I have never done this before. Thanks
at the shop i work at we do it alot simpler, we just align the blades, take the air angle grinder like you had and sharpen them exactly as you did. I see the diffrence but in time its just not worth it to do i dont think since were so busy now. we get about $40 for sharpening double sided 20" blades how about U
I just purchased a used shindawia ht-20 hedge trimmer what do you recommend as far as a tune up it runs but I would like to go through it tune up, sharpen blades and clean it up to resale just not sure what I should do to get the most out of it thanks.
Before sharpening, just remove the nuts on the little bolts holding the blades together and check the wear on the washers touching the moving blades. No need to remove the blades from motor assembly either! Replace if worn with like size or temporarily turn them over so the worn side of washer is up. Often this is all that's needed or even absolutely necessary after all the sharpening is done.
Great video thanks. I don't know what part of the USA you are, but you sound a lot like Ricky Bobby from Talladega Nights. (I sound like a kangaroo so don't worry.) I'm subscribing and will look forward to more great tips. Thanks again!
i have a sthil hedge trimmer and i was wondering what causes the blades not to move, it starts up and everything put as soon as i hit the throttle the blades don't move at all, and i was wondering would that have to do with timing on it if the timings off, or is the gear shaft or anything with the gears wore out, and if thats the case how could i tell if the gears or shaft is out of place wore out or if the timing is off?
Does it sound like its trying to move them but being held back and then dies? If so try getting the hedge trimmer blade spray which removes rust and lubricates. If that doesn't make any difference you might have a stuck clutch drum which means more taking apart and WD-40 rinse then slowly working it back an forth till its loose and moves without resistance. Good luck and hopefully its not to bad.
Mine is starting very hard and if I start it once I pull the revs it stops again I also use dw40 on the blades I think the carburetor might be the problem what do you think
Hi, can you help advise me please, my petrol hedge cutters blades keep running on idle, i've adjusted the idle screw as low as i can go then it cuts out. the manual says to take to a dealer, is there anything I can do myself. Thank you
wal buzz It could be that the spring (or springs) which holds the clutch shoes together has broken. The spring provides resistance to the centrifugal force acting on the clutch shoes when the crankshaft it turning - without that spring the blades will turn at idle speed because the clutch shoes fly out and make contact with the inside of the clutch drum. When the spring is intact the engine revs have to reach a certain level before the centrifugal force is strong enough to overcome the force of the spring holding the shoes together. You'll probably have to take the trimmer apart to confirm my speculation - a new set of clutch springs are not difficult (perhaps fiddly) to replace.
OLLIE251391 Thank you for your help, the bolt holes had enlarged allowing the clutch to just move around too much, replaced whole clutch and bolts and it's working as good as new. I really appreciate as many others do the time taken by people such as yourself to help and guide other people who may lack experience but you guys point the way and following good advice on safety and tips really has saved my buying a new unit. Thank you sincerely walbuzz.
Hi I have the same stihl in the video 81....I cleaned the carby and cleaned the blade and spark plug the machine is not very old....It ideals but when you add reves the blade just moves a little bit and then bogs down and dies any help would be good....
kevin storey did u pull out the spark arrestor and burn off all the oil? I bought a pair of hs45 and always bogs down with any gas..pulled out spark arrestor and took a torch to it and wire brushed the dust n flakes ...good as new easy fix
.Sharpening a blade is not a "repair" its called maintenance ..And that is not the quick and easy way to sharpen them .. thats the long and difficult way.. if you would like for me to make you the correct quick and easy way video ..let me know .. i will school you chief. people you dont need to disassemble your entire machine to sharpen blades that are easily accessible in the first place.