How To Stop Car Underbody Rust - Step By Step Guide Using Bilt Hamber Hydrate And Lanoguard (£5 OFF) 

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great explanation of the process, going to give my old banger a treat this year to see if i can get another 20 years out of it.😄😄😉😉👍👍 regards Kev

Hi, thanks for creating a video showing your Lanoguard treatment & showing the before and after clips, they are great, we really appreciate it 🙂

Thanks I was looking for someone to show this process correctly

Great video, but your lower control arm wasn’t replaced because it was rusty, it’s because the rubber bushes deteriorate, and they replace the whole arm, rather than trying to press out the old ones, and press in new. This process might help keep the bushes hydrated and protected from elements that affect rubber? I plan to do this on a newer car, so should be a little easier

Please, make a longterm review maybe next year to see how it goes after the winter.

Great video, finally a step by step complete explanation, including how to access the car underside without special equipment. On that topic, did you do one half of the car first (prep, degrease, Hydrate, Lanoguard) or did you move the ramps from rear to front and did each phase separate?

A really great video, I used this product too to great effect on my rusty landcruiser

Awesome video thank you very much. 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥

In the longer term (2-3 years), I have to say I was a bit disappointed by the hydrate 80 on my mk1 mx5 suspension and underside. I applied it carefully after a good wire brushing with the grinder and drill etc. It dried black, and looked amazing. Lanoguard hadn’t been invented, so I used Dynax UB over the top. Sadly, a few years later, I had to take it all apart and do it properly (blasted and epoxy primed) as the rust hadn’t been ‘converted’ other than a superficial layer on the top. It grew and grew underneath and then it was possible to flake it off in chunks. As a quick fix to ‘pretty up’ a rusty car prior to selling, this stuff would be good for disingenuous people like that, but otherwise, in the long run, it wasted time delaying the inevitable. On my next project, I am going to try applying lanoguard direct, after a similar wire brushing, and see if annual top-ups help keep rust at bay. It won’t look as black and clean but that doesn’t matter if it does its job as advertised.

great video, thanks. good idea to use a full face mask, but just fyi "throwing caution to the wind" would be to take a risk, ie NOT wear a mask.

Not seen anyone treat an exhaust before, its an replaceable service part, unlike the chassis structure

Nice job. Did you notice any burning off of the hydrate 80 on the exhaust ? Some of these converters have a lacquer in them so they dry shiny, which I imagine would burn off on an exhaust. My only comment is you might regret using stainless bolts in regular steel threads, as it causes galvanic corrosion. I made this mistake a few years ago.

The salt on UK roads has a lot to answer for.

nice

Does it dry black ?

What size ramps are those ?

How much of the Hydrate 80 did you end up using? Aware that it's applied very thinly. (Might have missed if you mentioned in the video)

Great video! Thanks. Is there any point in treat my new car with hydrate 80, just a precausion? I’d like to do anything possible to minimize rust buildup.

They way you keep saying the product name, makes it sound like a total promotional video! BTW wishbones are far more likely changed due to ball joint issue rather than rust.