I started with a video on Roman government and somehow ended up here. You present information well enough that I stayed interested long past anything I could understand, cheers
On padstones is good and ok its when your are takeing a bigger area of wall out that it would change to vertical rsg posts. due to more weight on a padstone. and wind as a building inspector told us. a bit ott on many jobs i think but safety is number1. karl
The props are called brickys mates they hold up both the internal and external walls if your struggling to hold the internal wall up. i.e maybe a timber joist in the way. many hireplaces do them but maybe not your big companies like travis.
Great description of the packing.. Is the beam bolted to the vertical steel supports or sitting on top. And again is there a difference - perhaps its engineer opinion on which method...
Hi Robert please look at brickies mate strongboys for supporting the external and internal walls in one. Also may be see if you can support the floor joists if they are resting on the wall you are removing. Prop the joists as they may? Be set in the brickwork you can hold up by that way. Just watch for any bricks dropping inbetween the joists.
yes mate you can hammer the slate in to a tight fit or wait till the cement goes of then wedge the slate in is a better job alot stronger also just incase the cement joint drops a bit.
just a clarification: what's the purpose of the slates? I've never seen them used as packing. Do you just push them into wet mortar and then fill the gaps?
Great video. can you show how you would lose the steel post into the wall when the existing cavity is 50mm and the new extension cavity is 100mm so that the existing and new walls are flat.
Badly yes that would work. Most of the time drawings are allready done with structual engineers details also done. We follow them as then there is no problems if done to all detail. Thank you.
Have exactly this job to do on our extension project that needs a 5 meter steel. Structural engineer spec is to lay that on padstones over new blockwork piers, but this goal post design makes good sense. Do they have to be welded as well as bolted though? I knew slate should be used in packing, but not sure the builders around here would bother - Great to see the details on a proper job, thanks again.
Since the ceiling joists are running parallel to the new steel why wasn't the steel raised a few more courses to remove the downstand between ground floor ceiling and extension? That would open up sightlines downstairs and remove the dingy shadow cast by the boxed in steel. The plate welded to the top of the steel is called a ledger plate
Hi mate, I'm doing an exterior wall installation for the first time, double steel.. inside block, outside block.. I've never bolted them together before.. so how do I bolt them securely without over tightening and having them pull together? Should I leave a specific gap? Thanks for any help
Use steel pipe/tube, either welded to one side of the steel or just loose between them to act as a solid spacer. Drill all holes 'zig zagged' ie 25mm from bottom of steel then next hole along the steel 25mm from top and repeat to give better lateral strength. Bolt up with m16 threaded bar with washers and nyloc nuts and you can't go wrong.
How did you get the steel in with the props in the way? I’m going to have the same problem! Also do you need strong boys on both sides or can you use one to support both internal and external brick work? Thx
Hi martyn johnson. If you can not slide the steel from either end of the wall by opening up the brick work then once in sliding it in then brick it back up. Or get it in position on the floor or next yo then prop it up. Good luck
Thx for reply, would you consider strong boys/Brickies mates on both inside block work and external brick work? Or will one side every 900mm be sufficient? We have goal posts on steel as well so need pads either side, just trying to create more room but not sure if Brickies mates on one side will be strong enough for both intern and external brick work?
Hi mate definately prop both sides of the wall. Sometimes if the bedroom floor joists are resting on that side you can plank across them and use acro props to push up and hold them and the brickwork? A good size piece of timber can be used to go across both course and propped on each end? I prefer to use props of both sides and hold the ceiling joists if thats they are resting on the wall your taking out. I hope this helps. Send me pictures of your project if your still a bit unsure. Also i use a concrete vibrating machine when putting your padstones in the ground so it does not settle lower than the height you have set? Using one soon. Thx Karl
Yes I am sure that's OK. As Thermalite walls are built on brick walls from dpc up. Brick then block. Please just check with your building control officer that's checking your job. Just tie it in both sides. Thx
Interesting.i will ask that question and get back to you. Personally yes i think that would work. Maybe not to strong, not stronger than the brick Or block your laying. May crack the brickwork? Thx groover
Yet another video on you Tube where tongued prop attachments are being misused! The Props and needles method would give adequate fitting space without dangerously removing the opening down the full depth and with fewer impeding props as the safe working load of a needle is five times greater than eccentric propping from one side. The main cause of collapse during masonry alterations is overloading due to removing Strongboy’s further from the wall to either avoid internal 1st floor wall damage or where attempting to gain more fitting work space as over extending greatly affects the capacity. When fitted with a Strongboy or any other similar designed product the Acrow props safe working load is severely reduced by at least 90%, from 3,400kg down to the maximum 340kg and can even reduce down to 0kg of which depends on the size & the working height of the Acrow prop, how plumb, how tightly fitted and how far the Acrow prop is positioned from the centre of the wall. - It’s urban myth that the Strongboy is suitable for every task, with the instructions changed by enforcement of the H.S.E in November 2015 and now read; “Before using a Strongboy you should identify that it is a suitable method to carry out the intended works”. British law also states that all temporary support must be designed, installed & maintained to withstand the load and only used for the purpose for which it was designed for, a structure must not be loaded as to render it unsafe at any time to any person. The theory behind the Strongboy is to use fewer Acrow props and to reduce masonry damage and is marketed within that manner, which certainly is not the case when the maximum safe working load is only a fraction (1/5) of the correct propping and needling method and when maintaining the 340kg safe working load the hole within both sides of the cavity wall or a 9″ wall is actually larger than fitting a needle and with at least five times more fitting holes required than one 1,700kg safe working load needle.
