How To Test Or Bypass Frigidaire/Electrolux Washer Door Latch Lock 1317632 131763202

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If your Frigidate or Eleectrolux front-loading washing machine won't start, or won't go into high-speed spin, or stops in the middle of a cycle, or won't even lock, the trouble is going to be either this door latch assembly OR the expensive control board.
In this video, I explore the operation and internals of this device so you can understand exactly how it works and how to fully test it to see if it actually needs to be replaced. I also show a "proof of concept" for how you can "hot wire" your washer to start without the door latch connected.
If you need help removing and replacing the door latch assembly in your washer, there are lots of other good videos for that. For example:
• How To: Frigidaire/Ele...
• Washer Won't Spin/Agit...
Once you have it out, watch this video to learn how to diagnosis your particular problem.
I have made a PDF containing the wiring diagram/schematic shown in the video AND the hard-to-find error-code & troubleshooting info for my particular washer. You can download it here:
youtube.wardco.com/frigidaire_...
00:00 Introduction
05:09 How It's Wired
15:51 Hot-wiring Your Washer
18:56 Opening The Case
19:59 A Tour Inside
32:05 New Unit Tests & Epilogue
35:36 One More Thing
Here is some material for the robots:
My particular Frigidaire Washing Machine is a model FRFW3700LW0.
Front-loading Electrolux, Frigidaire, White-Westinghouse, Crosley, Gibson, GE Washer Door Lock Latch Switch Assembly, Part Number 1317632,131763202. Replaces part numbers 131763256, 131753310, 4547033, 131269400, 131763200, 131763245, 131763255,131763256, 1531974, AH2367737, AP6285657, EA2367737, PS2367737, AP4455026, WH10X27534. The door strike is part number 1317533 and replaces part numbers 131763310, 131763330, 131763302, 1032664, AP3580441, PS890617, EAP890617, WH10X10004.
#ApplianceRepair #WashingMachine

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Опубликовано:

4 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 84

@WardCo 2 года назад

Turns out there ARE other videos on YT that go inside this thing, though mine has more detail (and needless repetition!). But watching those let's me clarify my thinking on a few things: 1. You have the electro-mechanical relay-driven "fork" lock, which can be cancelled instantly (to add more clothes, say). If the door-close terminals are active, it means the door is closed AND electro mechanically locked. Washer won't start? Check the relay coil. 2. You also have the wax-motor-driven time-delay lock, which is activated just before the high-speed spin. If the plunger for that doesn't extend and close the "safely locked" terminal (orange), then the washer won't spin. So if washer won't spin, do the wax motor diagnostics in this video.

@bobmcewen19 Год назад

There might be others, but I found yours first. The detail and logical approach and presentation were great ! I have the same part number as you, and the same problem (open relay coil). I've ordered a replacement from Amazon, but I might play with the coil while I'm waiting. I checked right at the soldered terminals, and it was still open, so probably not much hope.

@chrisanders4923 2 месяца назад

There's a third plastic pin by the latch mechanism

@bellowphone Год назад

"If you lack the necessary skill to do this kind of work, you should definitely have a few drinks first." You are a gem, brother. Thank you for this excellent video; I have had a couple of stiff tots, and I am off to attempt to hotwire my machine.

@BJcanal270 2 месяца назад

😅😂😅

@tywilkinson469 Месяц назад

Super appreciate you taking the time to thoroughly go through all of this!

@canadaftw0 12 дней назад

Thanks for the video very helpful. My door switch stopped working, for a temporary fix I took the unit apart and bent the door switch contacts up they would be made all the time, then put it all back together.

@TopMJW Год назад

Great video, Ward. I watched it to the very end. I always do repairs exactly the same way...once I diagnose and replace a bad part, I like to take it apart to see how it works and why/how it broke. :) Thanks for taking the time to do this video!

@bradector5640 2 года назад

Thank you so much for making this video. With the information you gave me, I was able to bridge the wax motor contacts and restore the high speed spin cycle. The kids now have clean and dry clothes without the dryer having to work overtime.

@brycegordon1705 2 года назад

Did you have to do anything special besides bending the contacts together? I also tried that and it seems like the timer just runs much faster the last 10ish minutes and still won't spin

@chrissatterlee4287 Год назад

FYI, my washer had a "Washer Tech Data Sheet" inside, under the top cover. It has a schematic. This video was very useful. My relay coil is open too. That's all I really needed to know, but I love knowing how the whole thing works - especially the wax motor mechanism. Thank you!

@chrissatterlee4287 Год назад

My data sheet (for Frigidaire FAFW3921NW0) has a part number. It can be found online by searching for "137312800 pdf"

@chrissatterlee4287 Год назад

I thought that might be helpful, but I just looked at the PDF you created, and your diagram is much more useful. And neither compares with seeing what is inside and having you describe it all. Not to mention, you included most of the data sheet from your dryer. Sorry for the noise.

@WardCo Год назад

Nonsense. Not noise at all. Lots of people will skim the comments and skip the video -- i know I do sometimes; it's faster -- and comments like yours will be a help. Cheers.

@grumpyoldrockers1048 Год назад

Great video. Very detailed as this was happening to my washing machine Frigidaire affinity. Almost tossed it and then I found the part on Amazon for $25.

@halfanhour2128 Год назад

Thanks for the video I had the same problem. When I opened it up I could see the coil wire had separated from the contact but I was able to solder it back on and it works again.

@bobmcewen19 Год назад

Excellent video ! Best I've seen.

@thalmoo6075 4 месяца назад

Wow! Great video! I had lost hope about finding out how to enter the diagnostic mode (I have made an appointment to pay $125 to have someone come out to do it.). I will use your sheet and try to do the diagnostic myself. Problem: No spin/door lock doesn't lock. Meanwhile I have ordered a door lock assembly.. This machine has had problems - purchased in 2016; water pump replaced in 2021.

@freecheese4143 Год назад

Grateful explanation!

@danielrufledt5246 2 года назад

Have one that locks and immediately unlocks. Any ideas?? I replaced both boards and switch. Tks

@danielrufledt5246 2 года назад

Have one that locks and immediately unlocks. It will not stay locked. Replaced the lock,both control boards and same thing happens. Any thoughts on this?? Tks

@DaveRaveVideo Год назад

Thanks!!! This video helped me figure out how to replace (re-wire) an old-style, discontinued, 6-connection door-latch (Frigidaire part # 1312694) to this style of new 8-connetion door-latch (part # 131763256) on my 24-year old Frigidaire FWT449GFS0 front-loading washer (thereby saving me ~$800 and a lot of time/hassle). The components on the old-style latch are not concealed so I could easily see which 2 wires went to the solenoid (blue/white & white wires), the switch (red/black & black), and wax motor (red & white) but since the original system didn't have the right connector plugs, I didn't know how to wire the new door-latch. In case it helps others... I had to cut-off the old 2-pin wax-motor plug and replace it with 2 insulated spoon-connectors that could fit over the prongs of the new wax motor. The old-style system did not monitor the wax-motor opened/closed contacts, so I left those unconnected. However I tested it and the wax motor still works to keep the door locked for a delay (until the drum stops spinning), same as it always did. Replacing the $19 switch saved me the time, hassle & cost of buying an $800 washer, and getting the old one removed (not to mention the environmental cost of putting the old one in the landfill and building a new one). It also saved me the hassle of trying to figure out how to secure my dryer to the top of a new washer, since they're stacked. Update/edit: Here's a link to explanation photos that I took. drive.google.com/drive/folders/1q0pwsCDhGYcctC-OJS6eawIPJIWLa5PM?usp=sharing

@WardCo Год назад

This is great to hear, and you can bet your comment will help someone else as well.

@kalo93406 Год назад

I have this old 6 wire lock as you did. My wire colors are the same. I understand how you did the wax motor. In this video above when he is messing inside, there are 6 connectors. You left the #5 & 6 wax-motor opened/closed contacts unconnected as I understand what you wrote. Can you let me know which of the "solenoid (blue/white & white wires), the switch (red/black & black)" you put on 1 through 4 connectors. Would be very helpful. Also where did you buy the new door latch lock for such a good price? Thanks if you can help.

@kalo93406 Год назад

Turns out today I tested the old wax motor and solenoid. Both operate normally with current applied. Also my switch has continuity when closed. Seems like it should be ok. Don't see any broken parts. Must be some other reason the machine isn't getting power to operate. Hmmm back to the drawing board.

@Dan-tg5fs Год назад

@@kalo93406 did you find out where to connect the existing wires to the 1 through 4 connectors? I'm stuck at the same spot! Thanks if you can advise

@kalo93406 Год назад

@@Dan-tg5fs I've kind of forgotten the specifics of what I might have known before. I didn't have to change out my door lock part (wax motor) as it tested good. I did find the cause of my loss of power though. My struts were shot and it's hard to remember exactly, but I think my drum was spinning kind of violently and actually cracked the plastic under the pullout detergent tray on one side and I think caused a electrical connector to become loose on the other side at the timing mechanism. Patched up the damaged plastic using a soldering iron. Changed the two struts and my machine is back in business for the time being. One nice thing on this old model is that lower front panel is separate and gives access to change the struts/shocks without removing the whole front panel, which is nice if one has the drier stacked on top.

@markinvt 4 месяца назад

This was great. The top prong of my washer's door latch broke off, nowhere to be found. I replaced the latch but when I turn the washer on, I get the "arrrrgh" sound. It must still be inside the assembly. I hope I can pry it out with needle-nose pliers, and not have to open it up but if I do, this video was immensely helpful. Thanks!

@WardCo 4 месяца назад

After I changed the drum seal and latch on mine, the door wouldn't close as easily -- so I'd get an "arrrgh" sound from the latch solenoid vibrating trying to grab the plastic door-latch tang. Solution for me was to push the door in manually on the right side with a bit of force.

@donsundberg5730 2 года назад

My wax motor Ohmed out at around 1250. Took the switch apart and tested it on the bench and the wax motor struggled to have enough stroke to make the contacts close. I was manually actuating the fork just to be sure it was out of the way of the finger and after 4.5 minutes it just barely would not make contact. You could push on the slide the motor was moving and get it to make contact but it wasn't consistent. It didn't move as far as yours. Looks like it is time for a new switch. Thanks for the video.

@WardCo 2 года назад

And thank you for the report. These kinds of comment are always helpful for others as far as describing the range of things you might discover "in the wild."

@montydaniels1054 Год назад

@WardCo. That plastic piece broke but I noticed that the electrical part looked bad so I replaced it as well. Now after I installed the latch switch assembly, I noticed that the door wouldn't latch... I had to hold the door in place & wait till the control double clicked. Next the door wouldn't unlock. I'm just going to put the original latch assembly back in. Perhaps it'll work normally.... Thanks for the video & I'll update this comment if the original part works better... Dan

@bellowphone Год назад

Just so you won't worry that I got drunk and electrocuted myself, I'll report that I just installed my newly received door latch assembly, and now the old washer runs as good as new. The wax motor on the old assembly was bad, but since the unit is over 20 years old, instead of just replacing the wax motor, I figured I would put in a whole new assembly, since it's only $22, delivered, from Amazon. Your video really helped me diagnose the problem, and now I feel like Mighty Mouse.

@WardCo Год назад

Whew! Congrats and thanks for the kind words.

@jezebelinadancer 4 месяца назад

Hey! It's the bellowphone guy! Hello! I also bought a new latch. The old rustbucket continues with the "Aaaangh!" sound. *sigh smdh

@bellowphone 4 месяца назад

@@jezebelinadancer Hello, from the bellowphone guy. Yay for keeping the old rustbuckets running. If you find that the bad sound gets worse, I recommend installing a big radio in the laundry room, and turning it up while the wash is running.

@Leo-gt1bx Год назад

Will the pump still run if this fails? My pump spins but motor is dead. Door locks and unlocks

@GARYxxx Год назад

thanks alot pal,this is jus what i want

@CatfishD 10 месяцев назад

Nice video. Turns out my wax motor was bad, it wasn't making the door closed contact. I jumped that and still have no high speed spin. I also have replaced my speed control board. Pulling my hair out, what next! Any idea?

@caseydaley11 4 месяца назад

Good video

@mackfisher4487 2 года назад

Ward, you do a nice job of putting together videos, I think it was appropriate that you celebrated clean close by playing the blue Danube. It's not proper that I hope that some appliance or other gadget you own breaks so that I can watch your scientific brain diagnose and repair the item. I hope all goes well with you and yours.

@WardCo 2 года назад

Thanks, Mack. Best to you too.

@songzhang3468 10 месяцев назад

Very detail vedio

@stevieg.4816 4 месяца назад

To simplify your hack is to add a switch to the 110v switch at the bottom killing the power to it allowing the wax to cool, and give it a few seconds then it will cool down unlocking the door. Essentially the same as unplugging the machine. So why all the nerdy intricate messing with the wiring? Your explanation of how it functions is truly appreciated, the way to diagnose if the part is defective is spot on, but the hack is absolutely unnecessary to unlock the door. Unplug the machine and be patient, it will happen.

@WardCo 4 месяца назад

Thanks Stevie. It's not so much wanting to get into the drum as it is wanting to be able to spin the drum when one or both of the locks are inoperative.

@williamnowicki68 9 месяцев назад

Can the wax motor harness be installed improperly? I can’t remember orientation when removed. Mine are red and red/white wires with red/white closest to door when installed?

@WardCo 9 месяцев назад

No, I think it is keyed. It will also work in either direction I believe, since it is just a heating element.

@matthewwilliams2818 День назад

Hey. So, I have this washer. I’ve had random issues over the past few months of the door not locking all the way. Well, noticed this morning, went to go turn the washer on, all the lights blinked really fast one time and the washer won’t power up at all. I’ve unplugged it for an hour and tried again, same thing. Could this door switch cause that to happen?

@WardCo День назад

Probably not. Door closing problems (at least with my machine) are generally the result of the tub seal getting in the way thus making you push the door to get the solenoid to latch. I'd say you're getting into control board problems (and I did a video when I swapped ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MHuAVtVPqAA.html) but the fact that your machine is not powering up at all points to power supply problems, and I *think* power goes to the motor control board in the back first and then up to the control board. So, if it were me, I'd poke around on the motor control board and take some readings and look for damage -- the idea being to verify if power is being sent up to the control board at all before tearing into the top/front of the unit to get to that.

@kennethday8791 Год назад

Followed every step to bypass door open fault even go as far as using heat shrink to make sure there was no exposed wire or contact plugged it back in pop the computer instantly mine is a 2012 energy star Frigidaire the exact same switch exact same three plugs jumper the wires just like you did on yours even using the same

@michaelmcgrath405 Год назад

Thank you for your video- very interesting, informative and even fun!- well done! I have a Kenmore with totally different looking door latch switch- and the old switch has been “replaced by” the one you feature. They want almost $400 for a new wiring harness to accommodate this switch! I’d like to determine what wire goes to what terminal and from old to new and save $400 (no new harness). I’d upload the old/different style switch pics if I could. Would you be willing to connect with me on this project? :) thanks

@tinagamboa-realestate1013 4 месяца назад

Do you know how to open the door lock on that device w when it's like Schutt after cycle and lock door light is no longer on?

@WardCo 4 месяца назад

If it won't open after, say, 10 minutes and with the power off, the wax motor is stuck extended. I don't know if that is a real thing or not, but that's about all it could be. If that's the case, there are no good options. Unscrewing just the switch from the front won't give you any access since the latch won't "let go." All I can think is that you'd have to disassemble the front of the unit. Ugh. Still, it is much more likely to be the electric solenoid, in which case a power cut will release it. Also be sure you're pulling hard enough, and maybe a little in the "up" direction.

@michaelstevens4428 Год назад

Is it possible to have the 110 on the wax motor backwards. Replaced the latch , lights come on it says sensing ? The color codes on this machine has different colors, maybe I got confused and did it reversed ???

@WardCo Год назад

AC doesn't have a polarity, so you can't connect up the wax motor backward -- but you can make a wiring mistake and not get any power to the wax motor at all! :)

@michaelstevens4428 Год назад

@@WardCo Thanks, I did not think so but ? Brand new switch and I thought that the other two plugups were foolproof and only went on in one direction. If it is the motherboard maybe the recycle yard !! I will go back and check the water inlet stuff. All of it is very clean !

@zachvincent4964 Год назад

This literally saved me from having to buy parts. I had the exact same problem on my door lock, but I removed the coil and found that the wire had come unsoldered. From that point, it was a pretty simple fix

@tboss6689 Год назад

my problem is the washer will not spin fast . i have tested the door lock switch .Relay coil good ,wax switch good .Wax switch give about 1.52k ohms it passes all the test you show. On the wax switch i saw you gave it 120v to activate the switch but the connector that goes to the switch on mine only produces abut 85v . yet the switch does work .Im wondering if that would be an issue ? did you measure the wax switch connecter on yours to see if it gives 120v? thanks in advance for any advice you may have on this

@WardCo Год назад

I seem to remember also measuring a lower voltage at the connector -- but I assumed I was just getting voltage divider effects from the wiring because I don't think there is any circuitry or reason to not use line voltage everywhere. Check out my recent follow-up video. I too lost fast spin, the switch tested fine, and I wound up replacing the control board. (Which sucks, I know, but it fixed it.) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MHuAVtVPqAA.html

@tboss6689 Год назад

@WardCo hum .interesting . Well I think if it's not the door lock switch it might be the control panel or the motor control board . I dont know

@WardCo Год назад

@@tboss6689 It will be the UI control board behind the buttons.

@tboss6689 Год назад

@@WardCo yes i pretty much assumed it . thanks for your great help and knowledge keep up those great videos

@danthaman74 8 месяцев назад

Thank for putting this together and the little bit of comedy !😂

@ufartface 2 года назад

i just took the fork out- cut off fingers allowing the wax motor piston to still work

@brennanmccoolnoble2504 Год назад

Godsend

@user-yd4ct5fw7h 3 месяца назад

Great video saved me $39 by bypassing that door switch . I think I'll leave it like that it makes it easier to operate the washer. Thank's again.👍👍

@maxbordi7665 10 месяцев назад

Disculpa me podría enviar el manual.

@WardCo 10 месяцев назад

The link to what I have is in the description.

@sb0368 3 месяца назад

Awesome video, very informative and really helped me to understand my switch. Mine also has a bad coil circuit. Always open, infinity resistance reading on my Fluke. I'm a ham radio operator as well and thought it resembled morse code, but man that guy is a real "lid". I could not figure out what he was sending. HAHA! Thanks so much for taking the time to make such a detailed video. Good job!

@ufartface 2 года назад

$12 at senica river trading

@jezebelinadancer 4 месяца назад

Sure Need Something Built To Last