How to test Samsung plasma TV power supply BN44-00222A (PN50A530S2FXZA, PN50A550S1FXZA and others) 

Use the knowledge from this video and apply it to your power board to test it. It is the same principle.

If you tested the power and it's OK then most likely it is the main board.

@@coppelltvrepair Yeah the power is good, thank you for the reply.

Afraid this is not a sign of anything specific. Something is not right in the standby circuit apparently, if there's no standby output, but there are many things that can be it.

Hey mines doing the same thing. Really damaging rte801and 802. That's where it's getting very hot.. Did you find the solution?

What you need is in the description under the video.

Not sure how do you imagine us helping you over Internet. What we can offer is already at our website and in our videos.

Flashing indicates an error code that the board's watchdogs have discovered and because of which they block the board. Errors can be caused by factors outside of board (if other boards are connected to it) or by failures in internal circuits - testing a board without anything connected to it eliminates the first group. Once you know the problem is in the board you either replace it or have it service it or learn to service it yourself, the last being way above the scope of this review.

I think it's pretty obvious actually. If Va and Vs work fine in a bench test and not fine when the board is connected to other boards then there is a 99% chance the problem is out of the board. If you can't get Va and Vs in a bench test then the problem is in the board or in you.

@@coppelltvrepair Things have not appeared obvious to me, having never before opened up a TV; perhaps if I explain further you can help with similar ease. I lost picture and sound in an instant while watching, I didn't take note whether it had immediately gone into standby (back to red light on front panel) but I presume so. When trying to turn it back on with the remote it just made a series of clicking noises, familiar but more numerous than usual, and it was obviously failing to start (no Samsung jingle) and simply returning to standby mode. I watched a video about a similar plasma TV repair (mine is a PN50B430P2D) in which it was suggested that the X and Y main boards, perhaps others, could be unplugged alternately from the power board to see if it had any effect on reviving the startup jingle, and it did! Only when I unplugged the x-main was the startup jingle successful. The conclusion was said to be to replace the x-main board, which was a great relief, having sleuthed out the culprit in short order. I believe it was at around this juncture I had also tested for Va and Vs to compare with the label given some other advice (55 and 209 vdc respectively) and got a very close reading for Va but noted the Vs to overshoot 250 vdc (the max reading on that particular analog scale setting) before coming back down closer what I was expecting. In fact I cannot recall how far the reading fell or if it truly settled but was comforted seeing voltages in range if not steady. I also noted the green LED on the logic board as having a regular 'heartbeat', going off briefly once per long second or so, said elsewhere to be what it should be doing. So, feeling happy with developments, I ordered a replacement x-main and upon arrival installed it (albeit at first go around stupidly forgetting to connect the ribbon cable from the logic board). I didn't see anything visibly wrong with the x-main board I removed, but lo and behold, I got the Samsung jingle when I plugged the TV in and turned it on with the new board in place (even without that logic board ribbon connected). Happily, I noted the 'heartbeat' green light was also still doing its thing as before. But, alas, still no picture, same black screen, and no menu. So much for my first foray into home TV repair. Then, some minutes later, while scratching my head in disappointment, I noticed the ribbon cable I had neglected to connect to the x-main and got that back on. Somewhere around this time, trying repeatedly in vain to get a picture, I noticed that the green light on the logic board was no longer on and blinking intermittently as before. The TV would still turn on and off, still make the revived jingles, but no picture and no green light. I also noted that there was still audio available from the input device despite no picture, I had sound in addition to the jingles. Testing for Va and Vs this time revealed Va = 0 and Vs ~ 5.6 vdc. Another reading, Vg = 16 vdc, though I can find no reference as to what it should be despite its presence among the major pins. I also confirmed two 3 vdc lines active to the logic board, despite no green light, I suspect the absent green light to be related to the higher voltages being down. At some point, again trying to disconnect various cables and ribbons from the primary boards, even the low Vs reading at the power board had become zero. Now, Va = Vs = 0 no matter the combinations tried with cables meaning the power board itself must be at fault. Out of curiosity I reinstalled the original x-main board at this point given no other bright ideas jumping to mind and to my (half-expected) surprise it now allowed for the TV to start and stop complete with the Samsung jingle, that sadly having been the only reason for replacing the x-main. I concluded that Vs power reaching that original x-board was what in turn prevented the TV startup jingle, or else there is a flaw in my logic. I am led to conclude that instead of the x-main board directly causing the no-start problem to begin with that it was in fact some unfortunate combination of the power supply and x-main board. I am also left to conclude, given your previous reply, that my logic board could not be the cause of my power board malfunctioning, which was what I wondered given the now missing green light; I had to ask a dumb question, though I've always been told there are no dumb questions, perhaps only those poorly asked. And I get the same missing high voltages whether all cables are connected to the power board, or not, including during a 'bench test' (for which I have no bench, save disconnecting everything but the 120 vac incoming which I have confirmed at the board connector), which you have now confirmed it should have done even on its own. I am therefore also led to conclude that I must now replace the power board since it appears dead in all but the low voltage circuits regardless of circumstances (an odd development given it had high voltages when I started, before replacing the x-main). I further assume that replacing the power board would revive the green LED on the logic board, and that the speaker sound operates independently of the X or y-main boards and high voltages altogether for I still have sound with or without those. What I don't know now is whether putting in a replacement power board will simply lead to another power board or x-main failure, or if there was ever anything wrong with the original x-main board to begin with since things are now looking more like a power board issue. Perhaps those high voltage spikes over 250 vdc I saw initially when testing for Vs were a telltale sign? Should those Vs voltages have always appeared as stable and on value? Can you also shed some light upon this would-be home TV repairmen, before I throw more good money after bad, and explain why that original x-main board prevented the TV from starting and making its jingle when it now works every bit as well as the replacement board now that I have lost the high voltages? I very much appreciate your time and expertise!

@@ronb7481 I have to apologize, but I do not have the time presently to read through all that and help troubleshoot mostly by means of providing personal education. I share bits and pieces of information with the full understanding that not everyone can make use of them in the same fashion. Sorry about that, but I don't think it can be any different and what would work for you may still not work for someone else. I have lots of work and just not enough time to provide personalized attention to everyone in need.

Some power boards are activated by high level (2.6V or more) and others are activated by low (GND). Some require activation connection while others would be activated if there's nothing connected to them, which otherwise puts them down. There's no one universal rule, sorry.

@@coppelltvrepair Where did you learn TVs and such? I have a good background but the degree I got was very generalized electronics, it was a good program, but not specific on anything.

@@vernonbosshard9317 Well oddly enough...for me it was just another hobby turned into profession. I had the basics too and everything I know about modern TVs I learned mostly myself through experience.

@@coppelltvrepair Thats amazing!! RU-vid has been my savior.

I am sorry we are overloaded with work and do not presently have resources to provide individual help on RU-vid. What we can do and how we do it is listed at www.coppelltvrepair.com .

There are too many possibilities and not enough information to narrow them down, sorry. What is evident is that the problem is not likely going to be in the power supply board and more likely to be in the main board or plasma logic board or sustain boards.

@@coppelltvrepair Ok but the VA and VS voltages comes from the powersupply right? So, if I disconnect the powersupply from all other boards and I only get my standby and ps-on voltage but no VA and VS voltages to turn on the sustain boards. As soon as I send the 5.3V to vs-on pin the VA and VS voltages are there (still with the powersupply disconnected). Does this not mean that the VS transformer is not functioning and for this reason the problem is with the powersupply?

@@peteruren4086 Yes they do. I have to apologize, but we do not have the resources to educate people on individual basis.

I can't even tell if it is bad or if it is the main board that's causing it click, let alone tell you what is wrong with it (if any) and how to fix it. Doing so will include extensive amount of communication which you wouldn't be willing to pay for and/or extensive amount of assumptions resulting in lots of incorrect advice. Add to that the risk of you not doing properly something we ask you to do and it gets so messed up the only proper way to do it is to not do it at all.

@@coppelltvrepair okay thanks