Definitely YES; I found this video helpful! Thank you. My dryer is not heating at all and the thermistor tested at 11.6k ohms at a room temp of 75 degrees. Given that and thanks to you, I’m on to the next part to troubleshoot.
Thanks so much for this video. I was working on that exact part looking for the resistance I could expect and ran across this video! Much appreciation.
21.6 at 48.7 F. That’s ok, isn’t it? Cold laundry room! Thank you for the video! I’m sure I’ll be seeing you in the next thing I test. Who knew a multimeter was so much fun? But a broken dryer is not!
I'm getting a reading of 10k at the thermistor - what should I get at the other end of the cable that connects to the control board? I initially got a 5k reading there, but I think it's because I ran the dryer until it turned off and didn't understand how temperature and resistance correlate. I'm throwing an F3 E1 code on a Whirlpool Cabrio dryer (serial WGD5800BW0). I haven't found any broken cables or anything. Second item: the big pipe that connects to the outside vent on the bottom of the dryer became detached - I mostly got it on correctly, but it doesn't have tape all the way around like it clearly used to. Do you think that could be causing a temperate problem causing it to shutdown?
Will a simple continuity test work for troubleshooting or do you have to check Ohms Resistance? I'm asking because I checked for continuity and there is none, but I didn't check for resistance.
@@PartsDr Thank you... I have checked all other switches/sensors for continuity and all of them checked out good. But when I did the Ohms test on the thermistor I got a 9.9, which is lower than 11 but doesn't seem like much to me. Does this sound like a bad thermistor?
I'm starting to think it is the Assy Pcb Main-Dryer-Main DC92-01025A or the Assy Pcb Sub-Dryer-SUB 6 DC92-01026B. My dryer will not heat and continuously runs after timer is up.
My dryer not heating of course, I tested everything for continuity and not finding your video and seeing the thermistor registers differently I figured that was the part that blew, I got a new one and put in yesterday and my dryer still isn't heating,, ughm ( mine is the exact thermistor as in the video )
I have a 10+ yr olf maytag medz600 elect dryer.Recently there is a strange weak odor in the clothes drying . The top of the cabinet seems very hot - to hot to touch after ten min normal drying. I removed the 8577274 thermister and removed a fair amount of lint from it. It tested at 9 kohms. Room temp about 76. This seems in range? I reinstalled old thermistor and watched heating element for 10 min with an empty dryer and the element never cycled off and on like I expected. The thermistor is easy/cheap to replace but do i have another possible more expensive problem - like the control bd? The exhaust duct is clean. I replaced the heating element ~3 yrs ago.
We have Kenmore HE2 dryer. It uses thermistor 8577274 and thermal fuse 3392519. We had the thermal fuse blow. Replaced it and it blew again after 1 load. Found the exterior air vent outlet was blocked. Cleared the vent. Ran with new thermal fuse. It ran but stopped near end of first load. Dryer was very hot. Like temperature was not being controlled. Now have it open. Fuse blown again. I disconnected the thermistor and tested it in place. Meter showed 0 ohms (shorted). Or so I thought. I bought new thermistor. Once out checked old thermistor and it tests out OK . Must have been an error in my in-place measurement. So what are next steps? If I reinstall, the thermal fuse will no doubt blow again. Is there a way to check the board? I could inspect, but can only see the back - How is it held in place? Just clips?
First, check to see if your dryer heating element is shorted. We go over that in this video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8AG7PtCy0v4.html If the element is not shorted, try running the dryer on an Air Dry (no heat) cycle. If the dryer heats up, then you most likely have a bad main control board. It would also be a good idea to replace the thermistor in case it is intermittently bad.
Can an open thermistor cause a no heat situation? I am thinking I have experienced this. Some seem to doubt a bar thermistor would cause a dryer not to heat.
@@PartsDr Thank you. That is what I thought I had experienced. I did read on another site that an open thermistor might cause no heat for a gas dryer. But, it was not mentioned as a cause of no heat for an electric dryer. But it seems according to that, you could disconnect the thermistor and still get heat. That does not make sense to me. I mean that would be the same as an open thermistor would it not?
I have a Maytag bravos 300 and for some reason it turns on and you can change setting but when you hit start nothing happens I checked the thermistor and it’s at 5 but it 90 degrees outside what else could be the problem? I also open the dryer to clean it and for got to connect the moisture sensor could that have messed something up
I recently had this part replaced by a technician claiming the part was bad. After I paid the tech $250 and having the vent system in the house pass inspection, the dryer is not venting properly. I did a test. When the dryer is not vented to the house vent system it works fine, no overheating, no error messages. Any idea what is wrong with my dryer?
That sounds potentially like a problem with the house venting and not the dryer. It might be worth having the vent inspector and the technician both take a second look to verify their findings.
I just ordered this part WE04X20252 from you guys. And my inlet thermistor says 106.0 ohms set at 200k. I get OL if I set the meter at 20k. I assume this part is bad. But my drier works fine. When I enter in the diag mode it displays the error message for this thermistor. . I hope im doing anything wrong. Thank you guys!
@@Bekim8310 This inlet thermistor should measure approx 104.6k Ohm at 75.2F. The resistance goes up as the temperature decreases. It sounds like the part is good from your reading.
My Samsung gas dryer has a DO error. The door switch tests good. The thermal fuse has continuity, and the thermistor reads 9.6k at room temperature. Any ideas?
I have a Whirlpool 3976615 thermistor in my Kenmore Elite 90 series dryer. I think the model you're testing here is the newer model revision of the 3976615 thermistor, but can't be 100% sure. Is your ohm rating specific to this model (WP8577274)? If mine is good, I should still see same the same rating? I think mine is bad as it's a 6.40 reading on my multimeter. Update: I think it might be good. I'm repairing my dryer in the garage & it's like 96° F in here, so according to the chart, it's in the range of 5.7 ohms & 7.4 ohms. 🤔
Part number 3976615 is an old part number that has been replaced with new part number WP8577274 that is shown in this video. Yes, the information in this video would apply to testing your part and it sounds like the thermistor is falling within the specifications for the temperature you are testing it in.
So plot twist... I had the whole unit apart, replaced three components- a thermal fuse & a cut off switch. As mentioned above, I didn't replace the thermistor since it tested good. Got it all back together (a milestone for me) & the dryer worked... for all of one load. It stopped heating. No error code, the drum rotates fine. Any advice?
@@utubepunk Probably check the thermal fuse(s) to see if one of them blew again. If you are having thermal fuses blow, you may have a bad main control board, shorted heating element, or clogged/restricted exhaust venting.
@@PartsDr Thank you. It's a Kenmore 110.63042100 with a digital panel instead of knobs. I know the exhaust is good since I vacuumed out like 3 tons of lint. I'm hoping it's the actual heating coil tray thing since that seems like a simple repair.
salve, sapresti dirmi dove si trova il trasmettitore su whirlpool 8004 \ 6 senso ? non asciuga bene .P.S smontata e lavato anche condensatore con idropulitrice , grazie
Hey! Our dryer won't heat, so I took my dryer apart and installed a new thermal fuse, but that wasn't the culprit. When it was apart, I tested the thermistor, and it failed. The thermal fuses and the thermostat on the heating element all test fine. However, we never got an error code. Could this faulty thermistor cause the dryer not to heat even if we never got an error code?
Just kidding. I had it set to continuity. Once I set it to 20K ohms, it tested fine. So I am back at square one. Everything is testing fine but the dryer won't heat. 🤷🏻♂
@@danieldupuis2390 Glad you were able to test the thermistor properly. We would probably look at the power supply to the dryer and the main control board next.
I have daewoo wahser dryer My thermistor reading was 45k at room temperature, so it seems bad. But when I bought a new one, the reading was the same😄 Is there some thing wrong, or is it just different model?
Hello, hoping you might have some suggestions I've not tried. I've ruled out a drive motor(purchased one and installed, resulted in same symptom), replaced thermistor and thermal fuse. I get a short rotation on the drive motor and then it stops. The first attempt will rotate a bit more than the starts I attempt after but you're talking like one rotation. No errors in diagnostic mode unfortunately. I tested the mew thermal fuse an thermistor I have and all measured fine on meter. My next guest is the control board? Unless you think there might be any other components. I have model: WGD7000DW2 I appreciate any input, as I'm thinking about calling a technician but I am a technician, I just service copiers...lol!
@@PartsDr I appreciate the prompt reply. I saw someone say they were going to solder in a new relay on their control board. Doubt I'll try that but would be nice if I can confirm it's the board before going that route. Is there anything you're aware of in the diagnostic menu that could help me confirm?
Thanks Parts Dr! Followed your vids and replaced the blown thermal fuse and thermistor as well as the heater element. However, on reassembly and test, as soon as the dryer started, the thermistor blew with a spark and blew tripped the circuit. I don't want to install another one and have the same thing happen. Any ideas?
Are you sure the correct wires were attached to the thermistor? We have seen some people accidentally connect the wrong wires and damage the thermistor.
@@PartsDr Got it working, best I can figure was the short was created because I was soaked in sweat (hot, muggy South Carolina day)! It was the moisture across the terminals. Thank you for responding, that is some great customer service.
We have replaced all the thermostats, the thermal fuse and the heating coil. Everything checks good. It will dry a load good if I haven't used it in awhile. If I try to dry back to back loads it will not dry the second one the first time. Could this be a control board? Don't know what else to do.
I don't think we can diagnose this for you with the information we have in a youtube comment. It could be a problem with the main control board but you will need to troubleshoot the issue to narrow it down.
Thanks. Some other RU-vid supposed appliance expert told me to do a continuity test - _- ugh waste of time. How do I test a inlet thermistor/high limit thermostat assembly? (whirlpool duet e. Dryer)
@@PartsDr Thanks, any other ideas why I might be getting an F-22 code? Made sure the door is shut firmly, just replaced the idler pulley and belt, maybe I bumped something or when the pulley went out there was something else that happened when the pulley failed.
@@natejames2856 We would start by double checking all of the wire connections and also looking for any broken wires between the thermistor and the main control board.
@@PartsDr Thanks, was going to check wiring and such today, turns out that the plug is not snug and came out while I was working. That was an easy fix.
Do any of you people READ the table on the video? 1:35 It shows the resistance value the thermistor SHOULD BE for the listed temperature in both Celcius and Fahrenheit (). Room temperature is about 70F or 21C. A digital $9 thermometer from Lowes/Amazon whatever or even a red mercury style can be placed next to the thermistor for 5 minutes WHILE IT IS STILL IN PLACE to have the ambient temperature PLUS the thermistor as close as possible to its operating conditions. Geez.
I replaced the thermistor and the whole heating element on Kenmore elite HE3 and run the dryer but still after 1 min it gives an F22 error again tried different temp settings still it would stop after a minute with an F22 error... I did test the thermistor
oddly enough mine reads 102k ohms. I got curious so i ran it under cold water and it went higher scolding water couldnt even bring it down to 40k. Think its bad?
@@jayjay21jay1 If the ohm reading is that far off it can cause the dryer to do all sorts of strange things. According to the chart in the video 1.7k ohnms = 160F. So right now the dryer thinks it is hotter than it actually is, so in theory it shouldn't be calling to heat up very much.
@@PartsDr thanks for replying. Based on your video... I dug a little deeper - the heating element was broken. Ordered a new coil assembly and canceled my thermister order. interestingly, I put the thermister in the freezer, essentially appeared to be an infinite resistance.... but as it warmed up, the resistance dropped into the expected range. I also found a lot of lint stuck in the duct and fan.... thanks again! Doug
@@PartsDr just a follow up. Seems to be working better than new. Of course, in replacing the element assembly, I pulled out a LOT of lint that had accumulated over the years! But now, when the washer finishes, the dry has already been emptied! Thanks for the useful and timely video!
